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Dale Beuning
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From RonStygar_at_aol.com Sun Oct 26 21:43:14 1997
From RonStygar_at_aol.com
Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 00:42:45 -0500 (EST)
To: dale_at_unofficialbmw.com
Subject: Lets VDO gauge my '97 318tis: Part 2
For info on the 328is install, click here.
PART #1, click here
PART #3, click here
Reading this over and over for correctness, makes me think (other than me)
who the hell would do this. Why am I wasting my time writing this up. Then
again, like I said in part one, taken one step at a time, its really a piece
of cake.
I really
do not want to spend ten hours making a panel that most people would object
to spending $50.00 for. I'm hoping that the instructions below act as a guide
for you. Make your own, where time is not a part of the equation. Thats what
I did, with no guide.
Parts needed that were not mentioned in Part 1.
BMW storage compartment 51 16 8 193 147 $16.00 retail
Whitlam pipe thread compound, stock code IGB $7.50 retail
(explained in part 3)
The gauges mount in a modified forward cigar lighter / ash tray or storage
assembly. Remove the cigar lighter / ash tray assembly by pulling out the
ashtray and removing the screw. I relocated the cigar lighter to the flat
area just ahead of the coin holder assembly.
VDO Guages installed in 1997 318ti with custom mounting panel:
For this, center punch a mark 1
1/4 inches from the right side of the console that holds the cup holders and
7/8 inch from the rear of the shifter console. I removed the console and
drilled a hole useing the 1 1/16 Lenox hole saw and filed it to size. I did
not duplicate the recessed lighter hole that is present in the ashtray
assembly. This would be difficult for me, or you, to do. The surface mount
looks good.
I relocated the alarm LED just forward of the shift console
passenger side window switch. For this, center punch a mark 0.5 inches
forward of the window switch frame and 5/16 inches in from the right of the
frame. The hole size for the LED is 7/32.
Taking the purchased storage
compartment, I cut away the bottom of this assembly where it mounts and most
of the top leaving roughly a 1/4 inch all the way around the perimeter of the
assembly plus the back and right hand side. I also removed the plastic on the
shift console where the ash tray assembly mounts to roughly 1/4 inch from the
textured area. I then took the modified ash tray assembly (storage
compartment) and laid it upside down onto a piece of 0.125 black textured
plastic. Although the texture is different it looks better than a texture
that approximately matches BMW. You could also have the carbon fiber guy make
you this piece. You can purchase a 4' by 8' sheet of the BMW like texture for
$100.00.
I scribed the ash tray assembly shape onto a piece of this using a
stainless steel scribe. I cut out the piece using a scroll saw, hand filing
to the scribe line. I drilled three 2 1/16 inch holes, using the Lenox hole
saw, to accommodate the three gauges. Take care to evenly space the holes and
accommodate the ash tray assembly edges. There is ~ 5/8" from the edge of
this piece to the top edge of the gauge at each side. There is ~ 5/32"
between the top edges of the gauges.
To do this right, you really need a
drill press where you can reference it to a fence. Taper down, with a file,
the front and side edges till the fit is perfect (relative to the storage
assembly piece and the opening where it goes). Taper down means the bottom of
the piece is smaller than the top. This piece sits on top of the cut out ash
tray assembly.
I glued the piece using Locktite Quick tite brush on. Since
the setup time of this glue is short, I fashioned a fixture using angle
brackets taped to my desk to accommodate the three hole piece face down.
Apply the glue to the ashtray assembly top face and set the ashtray assembly
(make sure you are lined up correctly) on to the three hole piece. I then,
using the same glue, backed filled the inside edge. Be careful. The glue has
a high flow rate. You do not want it to flow onto the finished areas. I then
filled the top rear edge, where it meets the back of the ashtray, with a two
part epoxy. Although it doesn't show, I masked off the edges to get a nice
line.
I installed the gauges alphabetically by width, left to right. Oil
pressure, Oil temperature and Voltmeter. I tried all the combinations. This
looks good at rest and in operation. I angled the top of the gauges ~ 30
degrees to the right referencing the front edge of the gauge mounting piece.
They then line up when you look at them from the drivers seat.
To mount the
gauges (because of the limited height) you have to remove approximately 11/32
inches from the U shaped mounting bracket ends and studs. You replace the
long VDO stud 4mm nuts with standard 4mm nuts. I also added 4mm flat and lock
washers where they fit. You also have to cut the lamp holder tabs flush with
the bottom of the tab hole. I then drilled new holes mid-way in the remaining
tabs.
I wired the gauge panel using 20 gauge teflon wire. I used edge cut
stakons (Unlike the round ones with a hole, these have a straight front and
sides) daisy chaining the ground (-) and a second wire to each lamp holders
ground end which was soldered. I daisy chained the hot end of the lamp
holders (soldered). On the hot end of the lamp holder tab, notch out (from
the top of the tab) so that you turn the hole into a U-shape. I daisy chained
the (+) using female tab connectors.
VDO Guages installed in 1997 318ti with custom mounting panel:
I connected the ground via a tap-in
connector to the cigar lighter ground (brown). I connected the (+) to the
purple wire (pin 2) of the factory alarm connector. This point is hot in
accessory, run and start.
I connected the dimmer controlled lighting wire
(gray / red) to the lamp holders plus end. This is in the same area as the
cigar lighter ground.
If you were careful in making the gauge holder, it just
sets in place with no mounting required. Pulling the sender wires slightly
forward into the area of the shift boot and the weight of the gauges, simply
holds it place. If concerned, a small dab of silicone would keep it in place,
and yet be easy to remove if you had to.
See part 3: We will get the sender wires into the engine compartment,
install the senders etc...
For info on the 328is install, click here.
PART #1, click here
PART #3, click here
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