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BMW Digest FAQ Version 4.0

Section 13: 2002

Table of Contents:

13.1: Overview

13.1.1: 2002-Lux
13.2: Body

13.2.1: Rust
13.3: Engine

13.3.1: Emissions
13.4: Suspension & Steering

13.4.1: Steering failure
13.5: Brakes
13.6: HVAC
13.7: Electrical
13.8: Misc

13.8.1: Shifter feel improvement 13.9: Performance

13.1: Overview
13.1.1: 2002-Lux
(by (Ware Adams))

>I just talked to a guy who has what he says is a 2000TiLUX with a 2002Tii

the tilux was a variation on the four door sedans that preceded and ran concurrently with the '02 series. The are quite upright, seated five people easily and significantly rarer than the '02s. They started with the 1500, continued with the 1600 (not 1600-2), 1800 and then 2000. The 2 litre variant had a slightly modified body with much wider tail lights.

On many of these models there were performance/luxury variants. The 1600ti, 1800ti and 2000ti came with dual side draught Solex carbs in a set up that later found its way into the 2002ti and 1600ti (2 door version).

The most interesting, rare and valuable variant of all was the 1800tisa which had dual 45DCOE (I think, maybe 40DCOE) Webers and all sorts of racing set ups (seats, 5 speed CR transmission, etc...). Only 200+ were made for racing certification, and this was really the predecessor to the M3 (but much rarer--even in its prime).

The variant you are talking about were the 2000tilux which is essentially a 2000ti with some luxury trim and softer suspension (wood dash and centers on the instrument needles etc...). The engine could be from a 2002tii or a 2000tii which was actually produced prior to the 2-door injected model and as it sounds had the mechanically fuel injected engine in the four door body.
>a picture of it, whether it came with a Tii engine stock, how easy to get >parts for,

You can see a picture in most BMW books--it looks similar to any of the four door sedans. I know that the Brooklands 1600 Collection has a road test that includes a 1600 and a 2000tilux. Parts are more difficult than 2002s if they do not coincide (eg most engine stuff is identical but body is difficult). However, if your willing to put the time in these cars are not all that rare, so you should be able to get what you need.

>worthwhile to restore

With the exception of the 1800tisa these will never be collectors cars, so don't plan on making your fortune with it. However, there are much better ways to do that than cars, and if weird, old BMWs appeal to you I'd say go ahead. It isn't as sporty as a 2002, and it even makes those cars look sleek when sitting next to it, but there are those who like that (read: me).

Sorry to be so long winded. If you decide to pass on this I would be very interested in talking to the person who owns it, so let me know what decision you come to.

  • --Ware '72 2002tii

13.2: Body
13.2.1: Rust
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 1995 15:22:05 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: 2002 turn signal rust

> I just started the job of replacing most of the rubber body gaskets on my 2002, > and have found the beginnings of the usual rust along the top of the front turn > signal cavity. I am going to sand this down and paint it with a rust inhibitor, > but eventually the fenders will need to be replaced.

This is usually the first place on the fender to rust out. Fortunately, fenders for the 2002 are pretty inexpensive.

> My question is does anyone have a way to prevent this from happening again with > the new fenders (or slowing it with the current ones). The insides of the > cavities for the turn signals are very clean and dry, and the rust is on the top, > not the bottom. Thus it seems that the crease between the top of the turn > signal cavity and the bottom side of the fender "roof" is catching dirt/moisture > and the rust is growing from there. Any successful modifications?

The problem is that the turn signal housing is a "cup", which leaves a space between the top of the cup, and the underside of the top of the fender. Great place for mud, water, salt, etc. to collect. The problem is made worse on some cars by the factory undercoating. Seemingly, some cars only received a little undercoating in this area, while others were loaded up. The ones that had minimal undercoating tended to last _longer_ than the loaded up ones. The undercoating would crack as it got old, making an even better moisture trap.

The entire area in general is a mud/moisture trap, causing the nose panel to rust in the same area.

> I believe I remember Mike Self suggesting in the Roundel about 10 years ago that > badly rusted fenders could just have the area around this crease removed, but > that seems like a solution one would use for rust that already exists rather > than preventing it on new fenders.

The solution is, if your fenders are not too rusty, to cut out the top of the cup that the signal is in. Extend the vertical wall of the cup up to the roof of the fender (provided that this area is still good). That way, there is no 1/4in gap or so for dirt to collect in. Mike gave a lecture on this at Gateway Tech last year. And I'm sure he'll be doing so again this year.

For new fenders, I normally just prime and paint the area well. Don't undercoat it. And just flush out the fenders when I wash the car.

Actually, there was a terrific article on 2002 rust, written by Mike Self, in a Roundel about 10-12 years ago. I can dig it up if anyone's interested.

Hope this helps,

13.3: Engine
13.3.1: Emissions
From: Keith Gawlik <gawlik_at_ucsu.Colorado.EDU> Date: Mon, 5 Dec 1994 22:15:49 -0700 (MST) Subject: 2002 Emissions

Well, funny you ask that now--I just jumped through the annual emissions hoop here in Colorado.

The current emissions levels for a '75 2002 are 3.5% CO and 600 ppm HC. My car, with a Weber carb, passes fine without the smog pump, but I have to put on the air injection equipment to pass the visual inspection. With that stuff on, I passed with 1.16 % CO and 83 ppm HC (at idle), and 0.26 % CO and 46 ppm HC (at 2500 rpm). Only the idle reading counts in the current test.

When the enhanced emissions program begins in the Denver metro area in January, the emissions standards above will still be used. There will also be a test that the gas cap seals, and that the A/C is not leaking freon. The two additional tests are for '75 and newer cars.

It's a relief that I won't have to go through the IM240 lanes. These are for '81 and newer cars, and involve the dyno test mentioned in the Roundel. In this region, the testing centers are not built yet, and state legislators are getting so steamed up about it they are considering finding a way to delay the start of the program. I read that in Maine and Pennsylvania, the program has been delayed because of revolts and reconsiderations. Envirotest, based in Phoenix, has the exclusive contract to run the centers in Colorado, and has been the center of a controversy. Apparently, the Health Dept., which is in charge of the air quality program, awarded this company the contract even though two other companies were lower bidders, and Envirotest is not ready for a single test yet.

The goal in this area is a 30 % reduction in CO by the end of next year, or else the region faces sanctions in the form of having withheld $320 million in highway funds and requiring industries to install scrubbers.

In any case, I believe it depends on the region how exactly the IM240 test is implemented.
The GAO has made statements that the IM240 is so unreliable that a repaired car still may not pass.

As far as 2002s go, it won't be a problem getting the test done in this region for next year. I think it'll only be a matter of time, though, before the older cars have to go on the dyno, and they'll be tested for NOx, CO, and HC through a simulated driving cycle. Either that, or the state will decide that you simply can't use any older car on certain days in winter, which was proposed last year and promptly shot down (don't get me started on this).

Keith Gawlik       
Boulder, CO                       (303) 384-6260

'71 R75/5, '75 2002

13.4: Suspension & Steering
13.4.1: Steering failure
From: "Yurko Joseph" <> Date: 14 Jun 1995 12:05:26 U

I recently had the misfortune of having the steering fail on my '76 2002A. Fortunately this happened when I was moving very slowly while maneuvering into a tight parking spot which required a large ammount of force to turn the steering wheel. I suspect that this failure could also have occurred during a drivers school or autocross where the stresses on the steering components are higher than would be seen during normal driving.

Upon inspecting the car, I discovered that the rubber coupling which connects the steering gear box to the steering column had failed. This failure rendered the steering wheel completely useless !! I strongly recommend that all 2002 owners (and others) inspect their cars and replace the coupling if there is ANY sign of deterioration. The parts cost approximately $20 and are not difficult to replace. The microfiche shows two parts for the coupling: one is a rubber disk with four mounting holes, and the other is a small, weak spring whose function is not obvious (does anybody know what the spring does ?) My car had both parts.

To install the new parts:

  1. Do not remove any parts from the steering column in the car interior.
  2. Do not loosten or remove the steering box.
  3. Remove the four nuts securing the coupling.
  4. Loosten the nut securing the splined flange to the steering column and slide the flange towards the steering wheel. Note the orientation of the flange to the shaft so you can reorient the flange properly during reassembly.
  5. Remove the old rubber coupling and spring.
  6. Install the new parts and reverse the disassembly procedure, being sure to orient the flange properly to the steering column shaft.
  7. Check to make sure you tightened everything you loostened.
  8. You are done.

13.5: Brakes

13.6: HVAC

13.7: Electrical

13.8: Misc
13.8.1: Shifter feel improvement
From: (Oleg Perelet)
Date: Wed, 23 Nov 1994 13:54:14 -0600

If shift lever feels loose: take LOWER part of shifter

and try to lift it: ^^^^^
if it can be lifted up > 1" or you can shake it left/right - plastic linkage bushings (x) and (F) on picture are worn.

At least on 02 you don't have to remove driveshaft to replace bushings. I've done it on my 72 02.

                                        /  Shift Lever

\===================================== _at_ ================= Floor Pan

|(x) -Shifter Plate- - - -|--/

  • - ------------]=[]_at_----------------------_at_ Trans- ] ]](A) / -- (E) (B) (C) mission ]]]]]]]]]]/]Driveshaft]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]]

    ] ]] /

  • - ------------] _/

    (F) 02 picture note (E), (F) and (x)

You need to have allen 8MM socket, pretty long socket externder (several small extenders are even better - extension will be more flexible, but still strong).

Overall extender lenght should be a bit more than (A) - (C) distance. alse you will need 13MM and 10MM wrench and socket.

  1. Fix front wheels and right rear wheel,

    Lift rear left side of car - enough to lift wheel, put car in 3rd gear - you will need this to rotate driveshaft.

  2. put support 2-3" bellow trasmission.
  3. remove left transmission support bolt.
  4. loosen two support bolts on right side. Remove 10MM bolts

    connecting exhaust to tranny. Tranny will be lowered on support.

  5. remove shifter support flange (F)-(E) - on F side it

    got plastic bushing - BMW sells it as one pice ~$30.

    • -*- easy part done -*-
  6. (A) is two metal pieces with plastic bushings (x) in them

(~$10 from BMW).
they are connected to transmission using two allen bolts. Shifter plate is connected to transmission thru (x) bushings using 13MM bolts (#).

<front -----\

|x ---------- (D) - Shifter plate up view. TRANNY |x ----------


<front #

  • (D) - Shifter plate left view | x ----------- TRANNY -----/ # Remove (#) bolts (use wrench to hold nut on top/floor side). Bolts are located right above driveshaft/tranny flexible
     In this place you will need to rotate driveshaft - use
     your leg to move rear wheel (or ask your's wife to turn
     wheel) to get enough space for 13MM socket/extender to reach

7. Now you can use 8MM allen socket on long extender to unscrew

     bushing-tranny bolts. After this done pull bushings back
     and put new ones.

Installation is reverse.


  1. in different catalogs i saw aftermarket ads about alloy bushings

to replace BMW plastic ones, but i never tryed them. 2. I've done this on 4 bolt driveshaft - it shold not be

different (maybe easyer) for 3 bold driveshaft's (< 1970??)

If you are going to install new shifter linkage, you will need to nack out pins on tranny/shifter side, detach shift lever and slide out all construction.

02 & M3 & 65% 02 (whell i weldet it for 3 days, primed, got paint, compressor - soon to be other 02, but still apart)

13.9: Performance
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