>I just talked to a guy who has what he says is a 2000TiLUX with a 2002Tii
the tilux was a variation on the four door sedans that preceded and ran
concurrently with the '02 series. The are quite upright, seated five
people easily and significantly rarer than the '02s. They started with the
1500, continued with the 1600 (not 1600-2), 1800 and then 2000. The 2
litre variant had a slightly modified body with much wider tail lights.
On many of these models there were performance/luxury variants. The
1600ti, 1800ti and 2000ti came with dual side draught Solex carbs in a set
up that later found its way into the 2002ti and 1600ti (2 door version).
The most interesting, rare and valuable variant of all was the 1800tisa
which had dual 45DCOE (I think, maybe 40DCOE) Webers and all sorts of
racing set ups (seats, 5 speed CR transmission, etc...). Only 200+ were
made for racing certification, and this was really the predecessor to the
M3 (but much rarer--even in its prime).
The variant you are talking about were the 2000tilux which is essentially a
2000ti with some luxury trim and softer suspension (wood dash and centers
on the instrument needles etc...). The engine could be from a 2002tii or a
2000tii which was actually produced prior to the 2-door injected model and
as it sounds had the mechanically fuel injected engine in the four door
>a picture of it, whether it came with a Tii engine stock, how easy to get
You can see a picture in most BMW books--it looks similar to any of the
four door sedans. I know that the Brooklands 1600 Collection has a road
test that includes a 1600 and a 2000tilux. Parts are more difficult than
2002s if they do not coincide (eg most engine stuff is identical but body
is difficult). However, if your willing to put the time in these cars are
not all that rare, so you should be able to get what you need.
>worthwhile to restore
With the exception of the 1800tisa these will never be collectors cars, so
don't plan on making your fortune with it. However, there are much better
ways to do that than cars, and if weird, old BMWs appeal to you I'd say go
ahead. It isn't as sporty as a 2002, and it even makes those cars look
sleek when sitting next to it, but there are those who like that (read:
Sorry to be so long winded. If you decide to pass on this I would be very
interested in talking to the person who owns it, so let me know what
decision you come to.
Date: Mon, 20 Feb 1995 15:22:05 -0600 (CST)
Subject: Re: 2002 turn signal rust
> I just started the job of replacing most of the rubber body gaskets on my 2002,
> and have found the beginnings of the usual rust along the top of the front turn
> signal cavity. I am going to sand this down and paint it with a rust inhibitor,
> but eventually the fenders will need to be replaced.
This is usually the first place on the fender to rust out. Fortunately,
fenders for the 2002 are pretty inexpensive.
> My question is does anyone have a way to prevent this from happening again with
> the new fenders (or slowing it with the current ones). The insides of the
> cavities for the turn signals are very clean and dry, and the rust is on the top,
> not the bottom. Thus it seems that the crease between the top of the turn
> signal cavity and the bottom side of the fender "roof" is catching dirt/moisture
> and the rust is growing from there. Any successful modifications?
The problem is that the turn signal housing is a "cup", which leaves a
space between the top of the cup, and the underside of the top of the fender.
Great place for mud, water, salt, etc. to collect. The problem is made worse
on some cars by the factory undercoating. Seemingly, some cars only received
a little undercoating in this area, while others were loaded up. The ones
that had minimal undercoating tended to last _longer_ than the loaded up
ones. The undercoating would crack as it got old, making an even better
The entire area in general is a mud/moisture trap, causing the nose panel to
rust in the same area.
> I believe I remember Mike Self suggesting in the Roundel about 10 years ago that
> badly rusted fenders could just have the area around this crease removed, but
> that seems like a solution one would use for rust that already exists rather
> than preventing it on new fenders.
The solution is, if your fenders are not too rusty, to cut out the top
of the cup that the signal is in. Extend the vertical wall of the cup
up to the roof of the fender (provided that this area is still good).
That way, there is no 1/4in gap or so for dirt to collect in. Mike gave
a lecture on this at Gateway Tech last year. And I'm sure he'll be doing
so again this year.
For new fenders, I normally just prime and paint the area well. Don't
undercoat it. And just flush out the fenders when I wash the car.
Actually, there was a terrific article on 2002 rust, written by Mike
Self, in a Roundel about 10-12 years ago. I can dig it up if anyone's
Hope this helps,
From: Keith Gawlik <gawlik_at_ucsu.Colorado.EDU>
Date: Mon, 5 Dec 1994 22:15:49 -0700 (MST)
Subject: 2002 Emissions
Well, funny you ask that now--I just jumped through the annual emissions
hoop here in Colorado.
The current emissions levels for a '75 2002 are 3.5% CO and 600 ppm HC.
My car, with a Weber carb, passes fine without the smog pump, but I have
to put on the air injection equipment to pass the visual inspection.
With that stuff on, I passed with 1.16 % CO and 83 ppm HC (at idle), and
0.26 % CO and 46 ppm HC (at 2500 rpm). Only the idle reading counts in
the current test.
When the enhanced emissions program begins in the Denver metro area in
January, the emissions standards above will still be used. There will also
be a test that the gas cap seals, and that the A/C is not leaking freon.
The two additional tests are for '75 and newer cars.
It's a relief that I won't have to go through the IM240 lanes. These are
for '81 and newer cars, and involve the dyno test mentioned in the
Roundel. In this region, the testing centers are not built yet, and
state legislators are getting so steamed up about it they are considering
finding a way to delay the start of the program. I read that in Maine
and Pennsylvania, the program has been delayed because of revolts and
reconsiderations. Envirotest, based in Phoenix, has
the exclusive contract to run the centers in Colorado, and has been the
center of a controversy. Apparently, the Health Dept., which is in
charge of the air quality program, awarded this company the contract even
though two other companies were lower bidders, and Envirotest is not ready
for a single test yet.
The goal in this area is a 30 % reduction in CO by the end of next year,
or else the region faces sanctions in the form of having withheld $320
million in highway funds and requiring industries to install scrubbers.
In any case, I believe it depends on the region how exactly the IM240
test is implemented.
The GAO has made statements that the IM240 is so
unreliable that a repaired car still may not pass.
As far as 2002s go, it won't be a problem getting the test done in this
region for next year. I think it'll only be a matter of time, though,
before the older cars have to go on the dyno, and they'll be tested for
NOx, CO, and HC through a simulated driving cycle. Either that, or the
state will decide that you simply can't use any older car on certain days
in winter, which was proposed last year and promptly shot down (don't
get me started on this).
Keith Gawlik gawlik_at_colorado.edu
Boulder, CO (303) 384-6260
'71 R75/5, '75 2002
13.4: Suspension & Steering
13.4.1: Steering failure
From: "Yurko Joseph" <yurko_joseph_at_smtp2.space.honeywell.com>
Date: 14 Jun 1995 12:05:26 U
I recently had the misfortune of having the steering fail on my '76 2002A.
Fortunately this happened when I was moving very slowly while maneuvering into
a tight parking spot which required a large ammount of force to turn the
steering wheel. I suspect that this failure could also have occurred during a
drivers school or autocross where the stresses on the steering components are
higher than would be seen during normal driving.
Upon inspecting the car, I discovered that the rubber coupling which connects
the steering gear box to the steering column had failed. This failure rendered
the steering wheel completely useless !! I strongly recommend that all 2002
owners (and others) inspect their cars and replace the coupling if there is ANY
sign of deterioration. The parts cost approximately $20 and are not difficult
to replace. The microfiche shows two parts for the coupling: one is a rubber
disk with four mounting holes, and the other is a small, weak spring whose
function is not obvious (does anybody know what the spring does ?) My car had
To install the new parts:
Do not remove any parts from the steering column in the car interior.
Do not loosten or remove the steering box.
Remove the four nuts securing the coupling.
Loosten the nut securing the splined flange to the steering column and
slide the flange towards the steering wheel. Note the orientation of the
flange to the shaft so you can reorient the flange properly during reassembly.
Remove the old rubber coupling and spring.
Install the new parts and reverse the disassembly procedure, being sure to
orient the flange properly to the steering column shaft.
Check to make sure you tightened everything you loostened.