From digest.v7.n1371 Tue Mar 24 00:40:14 1998
From: "Carl Buckland" <buckland_at_xmission.com>
Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 17:21:31 +0000
Subject: Adjustable Camber Plates

>From Duane Collie:

> To: Duane Collie <trapdnce_at_erols.com>
> From: Rodd Sidney <bmwrodd_at_poboxes.com>
> Subject: Caster/Camber On car adjusters
>
> We just received our first sets of European Front & Rear
> Caster/Camber Kits that allow for "On the car" Adjustments w/o
> "jacking" the car!
>
> I figured you & other "Racer-Types" would have a keen interest in
> these for your weekend warrior track episodes.
>
> I've got avail for all BMW's but got the First set of Evaluation
> units in for E36.
>
> They will retail for $295 Front / $249 Rear sets. If you'd like to
> be the FIRST on the track to sport these T6 Spec 7075 Aircraft alloy
> units.
>
> I'm not a Racer but these look like the ticket to what you guys are
> into........................
>
> Rodd Sidney
> -----------------------------------------------------------
>
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Somebody ought to try out Rodd's plates, and report their first hand experience.

I will, of course be happy to stand corrected, but I think that the rear plates would be a waste of money, at least in my opinion. It is already easy to adjust the rear wheel camber with a couple of 18mm wrenches.

The fronts........I have just finished testing some KMac (from Australia) adjustable front camber plates that Will Turner is selling, and found them to be very well made and suitable for the purposes of the street/track driver. In the "default" position, they adjust "just barely" into the factory caster setting, and about .5 deg neg camber. They will only give LESS caster (which I can't imagine you would ever want). They will give more camber, up to about 2.5 degs on my (lowered) car. Not enough for a total track car, but plenty for a hybrid. Very easy to adjust; only required loosening the 3 bolts on the top of the strut, slide the top of the strut IN for more neg camber, and you have it.

Remember, when you have more neg camber, you are argueably supposed to give yourself slightly more toe OUT. I don't worry about that, though. I just set the toe at about zero, or 1/8 " out, and leave it there, regardless of camber.

The plates have poly bushings, and are firmer than the rubber stock mounts, but softer than steel-to-steel plates that some are using. I think that you should have at least some bushing, or else it is will be too harsh, and will likely crack your strut towers. The newer M3's have a backing plate, but the 95's need to to add a plate. I got mine from Sunshine BMW, along with the rear toe arm bushings that are going out on everyone's cars.

If you have a front strut brace that covers the top of the strut, it is a little harder to adjust the camber, but not impossible. You won't be able to see the top of the strut, so you won't be able to adjust the camber incrementally, but you can go from "least" to "most." That is really all you need.

I like 4 or more degrees of camber. With the new BFG tires, more neg camber will be even more important. 2.5 is plenty for a street/track car, but you will want more for serious race application. I am going back to the Dinan fixed, maximum camber plates. They use the stock strut mounts, and are quiet by high performance suspension standards. The KMacs seem to ride about the same, even though they use poly bushings.

I understand that Dinan has made some custom, fully adjustable camber plates, but they are mega dollars. I think that fixed 4 degs is just fine.

Call Will for pricing on the KMacs.

regards,

Carl

Carl Buckland
Salt Lake City, Utah
FAX 801-531-6690