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From tbrewste_at_sedona.intel.com Thu Mar 12 07:39:39 1998
for <dale_at_unofficialbmw.com>; Thu, 12 Mar 1998 07:39:37 -0800
by pan.ch.intel.com (8.8.6/8.8.5) with ESMTP id HAA23928
for <dale_at_unofficialbmw.com>; Thu, 12 Mar 1998 07:39:36 -0800 (PST)
Date: Thu, 12 Mar 1998 08:36:19 -0700
From: Troy D Brewster <tbrewste_at_sedona.intel.com>
Reply-To: tbrewste_at_sedona.intel.com
To: dale_at_unofficialbmw.com
Subject: <E36> CD Changer Installation in non-prewired BMWs

Well here's how I accomplished this task for my '92 318i. I'll try not too make too many errors. Sorry it took so long.

Mounting the Changer

Non-prewired cars not only do not have the data and power cables for the Changer, they do not have the mounting brackets found on pre-wired cars. Therefore, the installation kit for the E36 cannot be used to mount the Changer. Instead I used the installation kit for E32/E34 vehicles to mount the Changer to the rear parcel shelf in the center of the trunk. There are two holes already in the parcel shelf which you'll need to align with the holes on the E32/E34 mounting bracket. (There are two portions to this mounting bracket. The L-shaped bracket will not be used.) For better stability I drilled two additional holes into the parcel shelf. These were located behind (towards the front of the car) of the holes that already existed in the parcel shelf. I used the holes already on the mounting bracket to determine the drilling locations. I also enlarged the holes on the mounting bracket slightly so that I could use a decent size bolt to mount the bracket.

In addition, a rectangular bracket should be included with your CD Changer. This is held to the Changer by 4 hex-head screws and in turn screws onto the E32/E34 bracket which will be bolted to the rear parcel shelf. Attach this rectangular bracket (you'll need to find bolts/nuts that fit the available openings) to the E32/E34 bracket and bolt the assembly to the rear parcel shelf. Now attach the CD Changer using the 4 hex-head screws. This is fun because you'll need to balance the CD Changer in one hand, align it with the bracket, secure the screws with the other hand, and Viola - you're done.

Installing the data and power cables

Let me preface this section by saying that if you desire the cleanest possible installation, I recommend you remove the driver's seat before routing the data cable. This I did not do for obvious (I hope) reasons but you're welcome to do so if you choose.

Radio removal: you can purchase the radio removal tool from BMW for about $15 (when you see it you can determine whether or not you want to spend the $15). The other option is to used a 2.5 mm (or it it 2.0 mm - you'll figure it out) hex wrench. It may take a little wiggling since it's not a perfect fit but it works. BTW, know what your radio code is prior to removing because if you accidentally cut power to the the radio you'll be SOL and will not be able to verify that the CD Changer is working when you're all done.

Before you can route the data cable you'll need to remove a few trim pieces and your rear seats. Remove the kick panel below the steering wheel. This is secured by 3 screws (2 above and 1 bottom RHS). Remove the speaker cover. I think this is held in place by a single screw; the same screw attaches the hood release lever. Also remove the panels along the drivers side of the car so that the cable can be routed below the carpet and out of view. I also remove the panel on the B-pillar. Just see what prevents you from getting the cable under the carpet and remove it. Essentially that was my approach. There is also a panel, more visible after the seats are removed, by the rear seats that will need to be removed. Most of the panels are held in place by snaps but there are screws on a few of them so use caution when removing the panels. Unless you are not opposed to buying new panels, don't use the brute force method. If a panel doesn't come off with moderate force, verify that there are not screws of clips holding it in place prior to yanking on it even harder.

Data/Power Cable routing: With all panels removed you should have easy access
to the carpet/floor area. Simply attach the cable to the rear of the radio making sure it's properly secured and route it beneath the dash and down the LHS of the car below the carpet. You'll see why I said earlier that removing the driver's seat will enable better routing of the cable. There's a small hump to which the seat is attached that you'll have to route the cable over rather than under. There is an opening (which you'll have to punch out one of the slots) behind the seat back
for routing the cable to the trunk. You'll have to remove the panels in the trunk to route the cables to the Changer.

You'll also need to obtain a power cable. You can create your own but you'll have to splice into the existing power cord on the CD Changer since it has the usual weird BMW connector. The other option is to purchase one from the dealer or your local salvage yard for $5-$10. I routed the power cable directly to the battery conveniently located in the trunk using a pair of connectors from Radio Shack. If I recall correctly, the wires on the power cable are yellow and black. Black is ground (-) and yellow is power (+). You definitely want to be sure you have the radio code since you'll be removing the bolts on the battery cables in order to connect the power cable.

That's it, you're done. Put all wiring out of sight and replace the panels. However, verify the operation of the CD Changer before putting the panels back in place.

Regards,
/troyb

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