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Ron Stygar Carl Buckland Dale Beuning Forums Help
From root_at_tum.net Fri Jun 5 11:01:20 1998 for <dale_at_unofficialbmw.com>; Fri, 5 Jun 1998 11:01:05 -0700 id 0yi0hO-0004pb-00; Fri, 5 Jun 1998 13:54:42 -0400 From: owner-e36-digest_at_tum.net (BMW E36 Digest) To: e36-digest_at_tum.net Subject: BMW E36 Digest V1998 #173 Reply-To: e36_at_tum.net Errors-To: owner-e36-digest_at_tum.net Errors-To: owner-e36-digest_at_tum.net X-Url: http://www.tum.net/bmw Date: Fri, 5 Jun 1998 13:54:42 -0400 BMW E36 Digest Friday, June 5 1998 Volume 1998 : Number 173 Discussion for BMW E36 Automobiles:
Bikesh Patel <bikesh_at_tum.net> http://www.tum.net/bikesh
Digest Creator/Maintainer
In this issue:
[e36] Overheating problems...
[e36] Summer Weight Oil
[e36] Removing M3 Muffler Baffles/Dinan Muffler
[e36] More on BMW Nitrous (NOS)!!
See the end of the digest for information on subscribing to the BMW E36 Digest mailing lists and on how to retrieve back issues.
Date: Wed, 3 Jun 1998 20:23:35 -0500 Hello fellow bimmerphiles.. Welp, now that the heat index has gone skyhigh <105 fahr. I believe> in Oklahoma, the car is starting to overheat, even in the morning after 3 minutes of drive time.. Weird, today it bellowed out and red zoned so I pulled over to inspect, coolant everywhere, even on top of the hood, mostly on the drivers side of the engine. Had it towed to Jackie Cooper BMW where they put it on a lift, and fixed the problem by the end of the day. Problem? Busted radiator. The nozzle <I guess> that holds the tubes on broke off, so they replaced the whole thing with a brand new one under ext. warranty. Just thought y'all would like to know this little tid bit. Seems the nozzles are a little on the weak side. Ah well, just glad to have my baby back.. No affiliation with JC BMW, they're just great people..
Date: Fri, 5 Jun 1998 10:30:45 -0400 Having traded in my '95 well-modified 325is, I am now the proud owner of a beautiful low milage '95 M3. How sweet it is!!! Anyway, in my 325 I was using Mobil1 10W-30 during the fall, winter and spring and planning to use Mobil1 15W-50 during the always sweltering Philadelphia area summer. I know Mobil1 exceeds the standard rating method on both sides of the temperature spectrum. 15W-50 range is from -20 to 80+ degrees F. Since I've never used a heavy grade like 15W-50 before and since I've only been an M3 owner for a few weeks, I was hoping some of you more knowledgeable list members would share your opinions/experiences on this topic of a Summer Weight Oil. Thanks.
Date: Fri, 5 Jun 1998 11:55:03 -0400 I know Dinan's free flow exhaust is a stock M3 muffler with certain baffles removed. I own an extra M3 muffler. So instead of spending a great deal of money, I've got a local welder who is willing to split my mufffler open and remove whatever I specify. So, I'm wondering if anyone has any info. about the internals of the M3 muffler? Does anyone know if Dinan removes all internal baffles or just some? Or, maybe someone knows where I can find a diagram of the muffler? I know its unlikely that anyone might know, but since I'm going to give the project a shot no matter what any info. would be a huge plus. Thanks.
Date: Fri, 5 Jun 1998 13:57:46 -0400 I've been getting a tremendous amount of emails after the first post about installing Nitrous Oxide into your Bimmer, so I'll try to answer as many questions as I can through this post.
> 1. How long does a bottle last under varying conditions? Is the NOS
> basis, or is it mainly for racing? Because the kit that I use generates only 50-70hp (considered as one of the smallest doses for NOS injection), one 10 pound bottle lasts around 140 seconds. I rarely ever can apply nitrous on the street for over 3 seconds because you literally run out of room. On a dragstrip or down the straight away section of any course I can typically apply the NOS for 1-2 seconds through gears 2-4 at wide open throttle. As you can see, based on this usage one 10 lb bottle will last quite a while.
> 2. How much does it cost to refill the bottle? A complete refill (10 lbs) costs approx $35 or you can otherwise opt to pay $4/ pound.
> 3. Can I get a kit for my car? I'm sure you can get a nitrous kit for any type of car through NOS directly, but right now I'm only familiar with the install on E36 models. It's actually very simple. Check www.nosnitrous.com for more info on the products they offer. It seems as if they have kits for every single application and every car. Keep in mind the Instructions it comes with are Generic. Make sure you know where your fuel pressure regulator and intake manifold vacuum line is before you go out and make the purchase. Just the look alone, of the pretty NOS labeled Blue Bottle sitting in your trunk was well worth it to me :) It really makes a big "don't f#$#_at_ with me" statement. For those who have E36's and are considering this upgrade, I can walk you through everything....from ordering to install. When I get the time, I will put together a very nice detailed Instruction Manual with pictures on how to do the install.
> 4. Do you run a single injector for the nitrous? Can you tap in right
> intake manifold? What do you do to increase the fuel mixture?
Yes, I use what's called a "dry" kit. A dry kit merely sprays a small
amount of nitrous, through a single nozzle, into your intake stream. The
kit uses 2 solenoids, one to control nitrous supply and the other to control
pressure exerted on your fuel pressure regulator. When the nitrous is
activated, it pressurizes You want to tap the nozzle approx. 6-8+ inches from the throttle body and after the HFM, Air Density Meter, Air Mass Meter..etc so that it has time to disperse evenly in the intake stream before entering the intake manifold. You do not want to tap it at the throttle body or even after the throttle body b/c this leads to bad distribution. One intake runner will receive a different mixture from the other.
Again, this is based on using a "dry" kit. NOS offers kits for 80+hp that
incorporates the usage of spraying fuel and nitrous together through 2
separate nozzles referred to as "wet" or "fogger" kits. I chose not to go
this route b/c of the install (slightly more complex) and b/c I did not want
to use nitrous to generate
> 5. How Much is a kit? Basic Dry Kits generally run for around $550-$600 and can be bought through NOS directly or through a local distributor.
> 6. Are there any pre-cautions I should take? Yes. Don't go out there with a big head on your shoulders racing everyone you see on the street. Although a 50hp kit isn't that much of an increase....it's still pure power. You wouldn't want to lose traction on the street and endanger civilians.
There's no need for guessing games...you'll know there's 50-70hp there!
Trust me on that. Although some people like the idea of having that "James Bond" push button switch, my NOS is set up so that it activates at wide open throttle. The point is, use it only at wide open throttle...this keeps fuel pressure up so that you make optimal power. If the fuel pressure isn't adequate, the NOS kit wont work anyway b/c of the fuel pressure safety switch (taps into fuel line). Last but not least, I like to use Premium gas (91+ octane) all the time. I hope I was able to answer most of the questions out there, but do feel free to email me.
Been there, done that,
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