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From digest.v5.n452 Sat Oct 26 15:39:18 1996
From: Joe C Yaeger/WFG FE <Joe_C_Yaeger/WFG_FE%WFG_FE_at_notesgw.compuserve.com>
Date: 25 Oct 96 11:57:22
Subject: <E36> D.I.Y. Seat heater Repair - SAVE $300 NOW !!!
I took the plunge this weekend and attempted (successfully, I might add) to
repair a malfunctioning drivers side seat heater in my 1992 325i. Hopefully
this is not a big WOB. Let me know what you think.
For those of you who are interested here's the gory details...
Tools required: Digital Multimeter (only cause I have one),
needle nose pliers,
xacto knife (or something really sharp and pointed - cranium
doesn't count),
metric sockets and ratchet.
small fingers (not really)
Punch and Hammer
Parts required: Cushion Clip (# 52-10-8-130-678) $.88 each 4 required
Seat heater element (part number ?) $90.00 (hopefully you
will not need one of
these)
Background: My drivers side seat heater has been inoperative for several
months. The last repair was performed by the dealer under warranty to the
passenger side over a year ago. Both of these heating elements are on the
lower cushion (not the ones on the backrest). The dealer says that you cannot
repair the seat heating elements since they are made with very thin wires. It
takes several hours of labor. They said they tried to resolder them on other
cars but always failed. BTW my seats are manually adjustable leather sport seats
- Basic steps (detailed instructions follow):
- Remove seat attachment bolts (4) (Optional - but recommended)
- Disconnect seat heater cable connector
- Remove seat from car
- Test system function
- Remove lower seat cushion
- Remove seat cushion cover (leather in my case)
- Locate damage area in seat heater element
- Repair damaged area (tricky part)
- Reinstall element
- Reinstall cushion cover
- Reinstall Seat cushion
- Clean the area under the seat (might as well while you are in there...)
- Place seat back in car
- Reconnect all seat cable connectors)
- Test system function
- Reinstall the seat
- Test system function
Detailed Instructions:
Remove seat attachment bolts (4) - The front two bolts are each capped by a
plastic cover. Remove the cover and take the bolts out. Remove the rear 2
bolts also. You may have to move the seat forward and back a couple of times
to make it easier to remove the bolts. After removing the bolts move the seat
back to its farthest rear position and tilt the back rest as forward as
possible.
Disconnect Seat heater cable connector - Tilt the entire seat assembly back so
that the front is up and pointed toward the roof. Under the seat frame and
toward the back you will see 3 connectors. They are attached to each other by
clips and can be slid apart. Disconnect all three of the connectors. Don't
worry about reconnecting them as there is only one way to stick them back
together Two of the connectors are for the upper and lower seat heaters, the
third is probably for the seat belt connection circuit (warning chime).
Remove seat from car - Take the seat out (if you have a 4 door remove it from
the rear door). Don't worry about the seat belt tensioner just leave it
connected and pull out enough seat belt to allow the seat to rest on the floor
of your garage. You don't really have to remove the seat if you are familiar
with the workings and positions of the stuff under the seat frame. In my case
I needed to have a better look, and also it made it easier to explore the parts
PRIOR to disassembling them (plus I wanted to clean out the thousands of
dollars in pennies that I expected to be wedged down in the seat tracks). Next
time around I think I can reach under the seat and disconnect the element
connector without removing the entire set from the car.
Test system function - You can use your multimeter to verify that voltage is
making it to the element connector (on the car side). You can also test the
element connector (on the element side) to verify continuity and resistance.
Infinite resistance on the seat side means the heater element has a broken
wire. If the heater element is the problem then continue with these
instructions. If the car is the problem, then you are entering the twilight
zone - good luck.
Remove Lower seat cushion - Just yank hard on each of the four corners of the
seat cushion. This will force the cushion clips to break in half and release
the cushion from the seat frame. The clips are designed to break (that's why
you need 4 replacement clips). A portion of the clip will probably remain in
the seat frame holes. Use a punch and a hammer to drive them through and clear
the holes in the frame. The lower seat heater cable should be fished through
the square hole in the back of the lower seat frame, then you can remove the
cushion completely from the seat. You are now ready to really get into the
hardest part of the repair.
Remove seat cushion cover (leather in my case) - With the seat cushion
completely disconnected from the seat assembly and the car, you can remove the
leather cover. The cover is attached to two things, the seat cushion frame and
also the seat cushion foam. The seat cushion foam is molded directly to the
lower seat frame - you cannot separate the two pieces, they are one part. The
seat cover is stretched over both and held on by hooking many little holes over
a bunch of small plastic pins. Remove the leather cover by pulling on the
cover and un hooking the hole from the pin. Do this around the entire outside
of the leather cover. The Leather cover has now been detached form the seat
frame. To detach the leather cover from the seat cushion, you must pull on the
cover to reveal the small round "hog rings" that are used to hold the wires of
the cover to the integral wires of the seat cushion. There are 16 hog rings
used to hold on the leather cover. 3 along each side and then 3 sets of 3
rings along the inside panel. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to stretch
the hog rings apart enough to release the wires. Once all the hog rings are
pried apart you can work the wires loose and completely remove the seat cushion
leather cover.
Locate damaged area in seat heater element - This was very easy for me to spot.
The wire was burned through. It appears the heating element is manufactured
from some kind of flame resistant fabric. The element wire is threaded through
the fabric. You will need to use a sharp tool to pry apart the fabric fibers
and reveal the wire. My damage are showed up as a little brown char both on
the fabric insulator cover and the seat cushion foam.
Repair damaged area (tricky part) - Try and pull enough of the element wire out
from both ends. Strip enough insulation off the wire so that it can be twisted
back together to restore the electrical connection. Then wrap it tightly with
insulated electrical tape . You might try high temp shrink wrap insulator of
you have some available (the kind you heat up with a hot air gun). Once the
wire is fixed then tuck it back in the insulated fabric being careful not to
overlap the wires. USE YOUR MULTIMETER TO CHECK YOUR WORK NOW. If it turns out
you cannot or choose not to repair the original element NOW is the time to
install a new element ($90).
Reinstall element - Place the new or repaired element back on the seat cushion
foam. Make sure it is positioned in the same way you found it during
disassembly.
Reinstall cushion cover - Reverse the hog ring adventure. Use a pair of pliers
to recompress the hog rings around the wires. This will take a while and some
patience. Your attempt will probably be just as frustrating as the tech at the
dealers would so don't get to upset. Think of how much money you are saving
($60- 70 per hour ?)... Smile to yourself, and take a break if you get upset.
Once all the hog rings are re compressed, you can pull the cover over the
cushion and pop the little holes over the plastic pins.
Reinstall Seat cushion Now you have the seat cushion reassembled. Go get the
replacement seat cushion clips (qty 4). Inset one clip into the bottom of the
seat cushion (not the seat frame). The triangular end it the part the pushes
up into the seat cushion. The plastic frame, which in integral to the cushion
foam, is more pliable than the plastic clip. The clip will force fit into the
hole. After pooping in the 4 new clips then position the seat cushion on the
seat frame and pop each clip into the corresponding hole in the frame. You
will have to push hard. Make sure the seat heater connector wire is correctly
threaded through the square hole in the back before popping in the clips.
Reconnect the three "seat side" connectors so they are attached to the lower
seat frame.
Clean the area under the seat (might as well while you are in there...) - Self
explanatory. I used carpet shampoo.
Place seat back in car - Place the seat exactly over the studs in the front,
then tilt the seat back so the frame is at an angle just like you did when
disconnecting the connectors.
Reconnect all seat cable connectors) - You can make a mistake here cause both
the upper and lower element connectors are the same and it doesn't matter which
one you hook to the other. The third connector can only hook to the identical
connector on the seat.
Test system function - Start car - attach seat belt - test seat heater. Of
everything is OK then proceed. If not, go back to beginning. Be sure to check
the fuse, check the connectors under the seat, etc.
Reinstall the seat - Install bolts and nuts - torque as spec.
Test system function - Go drive on a cold day with the windows down with a warm
seat.
- End of detailed instructions. *****
Hope this helps anyone out there with a similar problem. Additional comments
are greatly appreciated !
joe.
92' 325i (new waterpump, Flowtech, Working seat heaters)
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