|
Ron Stygar Carl Buckland Dale Beuning Forums Help
From digest.v6.n243 Wed Feb 19 19:28:01 1997 From: "Carl Buckland" <buckland_at_xmission.com> Date: Wed, 19 Feb 1997 15:40:50 +0000 Subject: Cooling Solutions for M3 Brakes(long)
Jeff says....
From: Jeffrey Lin <jlin_at_montgomery.com> I just spoke with Korman about brakes. For Street/Track They recommend:
I asked about brake duct kits, they said not worthwhile, because they prevent full steering lock, which is ok for track but not for street and they would be to much of a pain to R&R for the track. xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx To those of you who tend towards the warped, I am not an authority on brakes, but I sure am an authority on warping rotors, having done at least 4 sets in 1 year. Here is what I think:
2)stainless steel lines will help you with that mushy feeling when your brake fluid gets hot. Most are not DOT approved, for some odd reason. 3)ATE Super Blue is GREAT stuff for any application, and it is NOT the same as the stock M3 fluid. I am sure of this. Be sure to thuroughly drain your lines when you change over. 4)Removing the backing plates is ok, but I think that you can do just as well or even better by bending them out (inboard, away from the hubs) for better air flow. If you do remove them, be careful. The wheels bearings will probably fall apart. They don't "just come off." If you duct, you will need the plates for something to attatch the ducting to, and to help "box in" the hub.
5) Ducting IS the way to go. It is easy, it is cheap, and it works.
I dissagree that it will impede wheel lock, IF you use 2 1/2 "
ducting. Follow Terry D's recipe, and place the ducting way inboard.
Don't just use the old ducting hole. 6)Use common sense. Don't overwork your brakes, give the brakes a break every few laps, and do a serious cool down lap and a drive down the country road when you are through hammering them. 7)If you find yourself driving on the streets with full race pads, brake EASY. Hot race pads are cool. Cool race pads are bad. They will "work," but they will also gouge your rotors, make lots of noise, and leave dirty black dust all over your que tipped Bimmer. BTW, I used Performance Friction 90's for the first time this past weekend, and they were sensational. Stop like an anchor, no fade, wore like iron, quiet (except for the awful rattle that all race pads make when the goop wears off, but no squeel), and, get this, CLEAN! I have virtually no dust on my car or my brand new BBS RC's or RS II's (more on those later). 8)The new, two piece floating rotors are a great improvement over the stock M3 rotors, but they are no replacement for the whole package that numbers 1-7 talk about. I recently tried some Brembo slotted AND cross drilled rotors, and they seemed to be much less prone to warpage than the stock rotors. I got 380 very hard miles on them without warping, but I also did the other things that I talk about here, except for ducting, which I WILL do next time. 9)Be sure to use "brake squeel goop" on the pads before installing them. They will be quieter, run cooler, and won't rattle as much. Race pads often don't have centering clips, and they rattle so badly that it will sound like your whole car is falling apart. After Buttonwillow this weekend, my brake pads were rattling, my exhaust had a leak and was wheezing, my struts were hammered and were banging, and my ass was dragging after pulling an all nighter on the I-15 in bumper to bumper Pres't's day traffic. Damn I have fun! I will repost Bob Tunnell's article on the "Broderick Brake Squeel Fix."
>
So, there is my two (and-a-half) cents worth on brakes. Carl
Carl Buckland |
