From digest.v6.n604 Wed Apr 30 14:39:16 1997
From: Fabian Gramer <fabiang_at_MICROSOFT.com>
Date: Wed, 30 Apr 1997 08:24:25 -0700
Subject: RE <E36>Alarm Question + OBC Removal
Having just finished installing an aftermarket alarm using factory
pre-wire I'll try and help.....
On the OBC Removal, be a little adventurous and explore your' cars
hidden spots and orifices <g> Let's say you were interested in removing
the OBC. You'd probably start by feeling around the underside of the
OBC, and the sunglass holder would be a good starting place. There's
you'd find a hold, and then your finger would feel a notch that when
pushed upwards and toward you would result in OBC popping out.
Now Charles, that probably sounded condescending, but what I'm trying to
instill is some self-discovery. It's actually kind of fun. You'll
learn alot more too (not that I'm any kind of expert)... ANYWAY, I
assume you're thinking of removing the OBC to install the LED for the
alarm. You don't have to if your car has a manual trans.
Pop out the shift boot, move the foam surround, and reach under the
'heated seats, asc, convertible roof" switch area" and just pop out on
the blank plug/face plate. Then drill and install the led in the
plug/plate and run the LED wire across and down the center tunnel piece
and to the alarm brain. When you removed the necessary dash/trim pieces
the center tunnel panel will allow you to reach behind it. Watch out for
sharp edges and be sure to properly secure the LED wire.
Now as I said I just finished installing an aftermarket alarm in my
wifes 94 325i using the factory connector. As Ron Browne has said if
the car is after 94 when you double lock the car the starter/fuel pump
kill is enabled(Driveaway protection ie EWS 1). Later models will have
the extra benefit of the Coded Driveaway Protection EWS II. This is why
there is no starter kill plug on the factory harness. That's already
done by double-locking.
My reason for going with aftermarket was cost and features. Aftermarket
alarms are in the $100 range, 1/3 the best price for an aftermarket.
Also remember that starter kill on 94 and later is by double locking.
So if someone grabs the code from your factory alarm transmitter they've
been able to open the car and re-enable fuel/starter kill. At that
point they're only a hotwire away. If the car has Coded EWS II then
it's not so bad, but they still managed to open the car w/o a siren
going off and can rifle through the car in peace. Most aftermarket
alarms have code-hopping/anti grabbing remotes, so a miscreant can't
hang out near your car when you disarm and capture your code.
Using the factory pre-wire and following directions from previous digest
posts, I've gotten the aftermarket alarm to double lock and unlock;
monitor hood, trunk, driver-pass-rear doors and turn on domelights when
disarm. Since dbl-lock does started kill I didn't have to cut into
factory wiring at all. Just use Radio Shack molex type .093 female
connectors to the factory male alarm plug. I'll post more explicit
instructions to my web page soon(address omit. intentionally, but it's
the page that had the 97 E36 kidney grill pictures), along with
microfilter and DME chip installation with pictures. I hope to finish
up the alarm instruction this weekend and will post the address then.
Fabian Gramer, Tarheel Chapter BMWCCA Member
[ Help ]