From digest.v5.n467 Tue Oct 29 01:04:38 1996
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 18:08:36 -0500
Subject: RE: <E30> Rear xmember bushing replacement
Replacing the 2 main E30 crossmember bushings is not difficult IF you've got
access to a lift. I and a friend changed them on my '85 325e last year.
Propane torch (really)
24" long threaded 1/2 inch steel rod
4 regular nuts for the rod
4 flat washers for the rod
2 1/2 in diameter steel pipe cap
2 in diameter steel pipe cap
3 sheets of roof flashing (6" x 6" aluminum)
Misc metric tools
2 LARGE blade screwdrivers
2 transmission jacks
lithium grease (PAM spray would work, also)
36" or 48" long 1/2 inch diameter threaded steel rod
slide hammer weight
In the dome of the pipe caps, drill a hole at the center large enough so
that the threaded rod will slide through.
0. Remove the back seat bottom cushion and cover the area with a blanket
(really, you''ll see why!!!!)
- Raise the car on the lift, support the trailing arm and remove the
shock's lower mount.
- Support the crossmember
- Remove the 2 allen bolts that hold the bottom plate under the bushing.
These allens are located on the outside part of the body near where the
factory jack engages the body.
- Remove nut and washer from bottom of bushing
- With the 24" threaded rod, drive out the threaded pin (the reason you
covered the area of the back seat in step 0 is so that the pins don't fly
around the interior and ding something up!!).
- SLOWLY lower the crossmember and insert the 36" or 48" long rod though
the bushing (but not into the car!) and attach a washer and a nut at the top.
Tighten nut 3 turns. Slide the slide weight on the other end and install a
washer and a nut. Thread a second nut on the rod and "lock" it against the
first nut - for safety sake.
- Surround the sides and the top of the metal surrounding the bushing with
to protect the wiring, the fuel pump and fuel hoses!!
- Heat metal surrounding the bushing (not the flashing!) with the propane
torch. Don't hit the rubber with the flame as it can get smokey!
- After about 5 - 10 minutes you'll be able to hear the rubber "cooking"
(sounds a bit like frying bacon)
- With the large screwdrivers, start to pry the bushing out with the
assisstance of the slide hammer.
- Allow the metal to cool.
- Lightly grease the new bushing and the interior of the crossmember.
- Place the 2" pipe cap (dome up) on the top of the crossmember - this
will be used to pull the bushing into place. Insert the 24" rod through the
pipe cap but not into the car. Install a washer and a nut.
- Slide the new bushing onto the rod. NOTE THE CORRECT ORIENTATION OF THE
BUSHING - ENSURE IT IS ALIGNED IN THE SAME MANNER AS THE OLD BUSHING !!!
- Slide the 2 1/2" pipe cap onto the rod (dome down) under the bushing.
- Install washer and nut, threading them up against the pipe cap.
- Thread 2 nuts onto the bottom end of the rod - lock one against the
- Use a pair of vise grips, hold the bottom nuts and turn the nut under
the bushing. She'll slide right in like a greased pig going down a chute.
- Re-install threaded pin, bottom plate, allens and nut. Re-install
shock's lower bolt.
That's it. Now repeat for the other side. Total time, about 2 - 3 hours!
Makes a difference.
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1985 325e w/Torx head bolts! Getting new shoes Friday - Conti'' CH95. We'll