From digest.v5.n467 Tue Oct 29 01:04:38 1996
From: MARKSFAVA_at_aol.com
Date: Mon, 28 Oct 1996 18:08:36 -0500
Subject: RE: <E30> Rear xmember bushing replacement

Jay,
Replacing the 2 main E30 crossmember bushings is not difficult IF you've got access to a lift. I and a friend changed them on my '85 325e last year.

Tools needed
Propane torch (really)
24" long threaded 1/2 inch steel rod
4 regular nuts for the rod
4 flat washers for the rod
2 1/2 in diameter steel pipe cap
2 in diameter steel pipe cap
3 sheets of roof flashing (6" x 6" aluminum) Misc metric tools
2 LARGE blade screwdrivers
2 transmission jacks
lithium grease (PAM spray would work, also) 36" or 48" long 1/2 inch diameter threaded steel rod slide hammer weight

Prep:
In the dome of the pipe caps, drill a hole at the center large enough so that the threaded rod will slide through.

Steps
0. Remove the back seat bottom cushion and cover the area with a blanket (really, you''ll see why!!!!)

1. Raise the car on the lift, support the trailing arm and remove the shock's lower mount.
2. Support the crossmember
3. Remove the 2 allen bolts that hold the bottom plate under the bushing. These allens are located on the outside part of the body near where the factory jack engages the body.
4. Remove nut and washer from bottom of bushing
5. With the 24" threaded rod, drive out the threaded pin (the reason you covered the area of the back seat in step 0 is so that the pins don't fly around the interior and ding something up!!).
6. SLOWLY lower the crossmember and insert the 36" or 48" long rod though the bushing (but not into the car!) and attach a washer and a nut at the top. Tighten nut 3 turns. Slide the slide weight on the other end and install a washer and a nut. Thread a second nut on the rod and "lock" it against the first nut - for safety sake.
7. Surround the sides and the top of the metal surrounding the bushing with flashing to protect the wiring, the fuel pump and fuel hoses!!
8. Heat metal surrounding the bushing (not the flashing!) with the propane torch. Don't hit the rubber with the flame as it can get smokey!
9. After about 5 - 10 minutes you'll be able to hear the rubber "cooking" (sounds a bit like frying bacon)
10. With the large screwdrivers, start to pry the bushing out with the assisstance of the slide hammer.
11. Allow the metal to cool.
12. Lightly grease the new bushing and the interior of the crossmember.
13. Place the 2" pipe cap (dome up) on the top of the crossmember - this will be used to pull the bushing into place. Insert the 24" rod through the pipe cap but not into the car. Install a washer and a nut.
14. Slide the new bushing onto the rod. NOTE THE CORRECT ORIENTATION OF THE BUSHING - ENSURE IT IS ALIGNED IN THE SAME MANNER AS THE OLD BUSHING !!! IMPORTANT!!!!
15. Slide the 2 1/2" pipe cap onto the rod (dome down) under the bushing.
16. Install washer and nut, threading them up against the pipe cap.
17. Thread 2 nuts onto the bottom end of the rod - lock one against the other.
18. Use a pair of vise grips, hold the bottom nuts and turn the nut under the bushing. She'll slide right in like a greased pig going down a chute.
19. Re-install threaded pin, bottom plate, allens and nut. Re-install shock's lower bolt.

That's it. Now repeat for the other side. Total time, about 2 - 3 hours! Makes a difference.
HTH YMMV
Mark
Arlington, VA
BMW(nospace)CCA 37523
1985 325e w/Torx head bolts! Getting new shoes Friday - Conti'' CH95. We'll see!