From digest.v6.n86 Sun Jan 19 20:57:24 1997
From: MARKSFAVA_at_aol.com
Date: Sun, 19 Jan 1997 18:02:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RE: <E30> Rear crossmember bushings

I've seen several posts concerning the replacement of E30 rear crossmember (subframe) bushings. It's really a simple process, especially if you have a lift.
Needs:
2 new bushings ($70 total _at_ dealer w/BMWCCA discount) 24" 1/2" diameter threaded steel rod (remaining from Home Depot) 48" 1/2" diameter threaded steel rod (becomes home-made slide hammer)

4     1/2" diameter nuts (for rods)
4     1/2" flat washers (for rods)
2"     inside diameter steel pipe cap (Drill a hole large enough for the rod

to go through)
2 1/2" inside diameter steel pipe cap (same as 2" cap!) Bernz-o-matic torch w/1 tank
4 pieces of 6"x 6" roof flashing

>From a slide hammer - the slide weight (insert onto 48" rod, locking 2 nuts
at one end)
2 LARGE blade screwdrivers
2 jacks (1 should be an adjustable tranny jack) Misc tools

1. Remove the bottom seat cushion from the rear seat. Cover the area with a large towel (I used my car cover) "Why?" you ask? When you punch-out the bolts that hold the crossmember in place, they will fly around the interior unless stopped by something!
2. Raise the car. Remove the tire.
3. Support the trailing arm and remove the shock's lower mounting bolt.
4. Support the crossmember (on the side you're working on, only)
5. Remove the bottom plate - 2 socket head screws and the large nut
6. Using the 24" threaded rod & a hammer, punch-out the bolt NOTE: Check the orientation of the existing bushing!! CRITICAL TO FUTURE HANDLING!
7. Lower the jack supporting the crossmember about 2 inches NOTE: Don't lower the crossmember too far or you'll pop the rubber brakeline that runs from the chassis to the trailing arm!!!!
8. Insert the 48" homemade slide hammer into the center of the bushing. Don't go into the car - stop so that you can install a flat washer and a nut at the top of the bushing. Ensure a couple of threads protrude through the nut - safety!
9. Cover any wiring, pumps, hoses, tubing, sheet metal that may be damged by heat with the roof flashing.
10. Light the torch! Heat the crossmember metal surrounding the bushing. It took about 8 minutes before we could budge the old bushing. You'll know it's ready when it sizzles like bacon (doesn't smell nearly as good, though!!)
11. Insert the blades of the screwdrivers between the bushing's metal flange and the crossmember - pry! Once it gets moving, use the slide hammer to finish it off. Allow all to cool; have drink yourself!
12. Coat the new bushing's rubber (not condom, cheeesh!) exterior with a lubricant - I used lithium grease but PAM will work fine. Kerosine (is that a term from geometry?!!?) works well, too!
13. At one end of the 24" rod, "jam-lock" two nuts together. Thread a nut about 12 inches from the other end. Slide 2 washers on, followed by the 2 1/2" pipe cap, open side up. Slide the bushing on. Insert the top of the bushing into the bottom of the crossmember, CHECKING the orientation.
14. At the top of the crossmember, install the 2" pipe cap, open side down. Slide the rod through the hole in the cap. Install a washer and a nut. Ensure 2 threads protrude through - safety.
15. Using a pair of ViseGrips or other suitable tool, hold the nuts at the bottom of the rod.
16. Using the appropriate wrench (cresent-hammer) tighten the nut under the lower pipe cap. The bushing will slide into place.
17. Remove the upper pipe cap, etc. Using the jack, lift crossmember into it's approximate normal position.
18. Boost someone into the car so they can drop the bolt back into it's hole. Reinstall the lower plate and its hardware. Repeat for the other side.

Took us about 4 hours, taking our time. HTH YMMV
Mark Fiumara
Arlington, VA
BMWCCA #37523
1985 325e, 132k miles, blah, blah, blah!