From digest.v7.n1557 Mon Apr 20 21:07:37 1998
From: Steven J Bernstein <stevenb_at_garageboy.com>
Date: Mon, 20 Apr 1998 20:07:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: RE: Solution: <E28> YIKES, broken seat mooring point (long)
>> Sorry to keep posting BMW content like this, but has anyone else had
>>their seat fastening points in the floor of the car crack up and fall
John, please stop posting BMW content. It's people like you that are
REALLY pissing me off! You're starting to ruin this list!!! We're here
to discuss M-badges!!
Just teasing. In fact, I just had this work done - I use the car for
driving schools, autocross, and ice racing, and can't take chances. Mine
failed *precisely* like yours. I wanted to replace the cross member that
holds the front "mooring points", figuring that was my best chance at
having the holes lined up properly. This was on my 83 528e with 289k
miles (that's 462k km for you high mileage buffs). I originally called my
favorite parts guy, who can get ANYTHING on the US or Euro fiches, and he
told me that BMW doesn't sell the cross member because if you need one of
those (like from an accident), their attitude is: replace the car!
Therefore, I went to a bodyshop that is literally one-in-a-million. I
can't reveal his name - I already told you too much! Believe it or not,
he's in NYC, and is probably one of a half-dozen shops in the USA that
does factory-equivalent work. He fabricated the pieces and welded them in
place. It was worth EVERY penny I spent with him, because the bolts still
finger-roll right in just like before - he aligned everything PERFECTLY!!
Of course, he used the factory threaded "nuts" and it all welded together
My opinion - rip everything in your passenger compartment apart yourself
(remove the seats, console, trim) to save yourself some money if you are
so inclined, and find a bodyshop that you trust. I walked out of quite a
few places that didn't inspire confidence. Once I saw this shop I spoke
of (thanks, Chet), I was utterly confident in his abilities (if you know
me, you know how hard it is to please me). Some fellow digesters stated
that any bodyshop can do the work. Well, any shop can weld, but with an
important safety item like this, I wouldn't take chances. With those
other shops, I had visions of struggling with the seats every time I
removed them (this occurs more often than you might think).
REMEMBER, THIS IS ONE OF THE MOST IMPORTANT SAFETY ITEMS ON YOU CAR. It
doesn't matter HOW good your seatbelt is if your seat prematurely rips out
of the floor on impact! Do NOT drive the car until this is repaired!! It
is NOT SAFE!
p.s. if/when you pull up the carpet and discover rust and other various
water-soaked pieces, you will probably want to deal with it before it gets
out of control (ask me why I know this 8^)). While the car is off the
road, use some "De-moist" or other dessicant equivalent to dry things out.
I was AMAZED at how it completely removed puddles from under the carpet
and dried everything out beautifully. I left a bag of the stuff in
strategic places under the carpet, and in a couple days, each section
dried out completely. After it's dry, treat the rusted areas on
the floorpan with POR-15 if necessary!
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