From digest.v4.n560 Wed May 8 07:30:17 1996
From: "Craig Lovold" <clovold_at_mail.mecc.com>
Date: 8 May 1996 07:07:00 -0500
Subject: <E30> '87/'88 325i Head Bol

<E30> '87/'88 325i Head Bolts

I've had some experience with these. When I put the motor from an '87 325i into my 528e I had a lot of dealings with Peter McHenry (I hope thats the right name...) who is widely regarded as "the" expert on BMW small six engines. He told me that before I even start the engine I should replace the head bolts if they were the standard type. You can look into the oil filler cap and see the head bolts, if they look like they take an allen wrench you're OK, otherwise REPLACE THEM SOON!

The replacement bolts are Torx head type and designed to stretch. The older type had a nasty tendency to snap the heads off, causing major damage.

Peter said that I didn't need to replace the head gasket or remove the head at all. Just replace the head bolts one at a time, so the others remain torqued. This would be a good time to replace the head gasket if you think it might need it in the near future. (good time to adjust valves, too)

The local dealer said that they had not heard of this but were 'surprised' that they changed the bolt style (yeah, right). Then about six months ago I saw an iX in the shop getting some serious engine work done. I asked what happened to it and they said that a head bolt had snapped (surprise!) causing water to mix with the oil (bad) and the owner drove it home and then to the shop (REALLY bad).

If you have one of these cars it is in your best interest to change these bolts. It is inexpensive (<$40) and only takes about an hour to do. You will need a good Torque wrench and a Torx bit (I forget what size).

Let me know if you want any more info on this. Craig Lovold
'88 BMW 735i - the space shuttle '85 Dinan BMW 525i - happy car with new Torx style head bolts '93 Hunter 23.5 - will see water this week !!! yeah !!

From digest.v4.n566 Thu May 9 07:53:23 1996
From: reb_at_oix.com
Date: Thu, 9 May 96 06:46 EDT
Subject: <M20> head bolts

You Said:

>From: "Craig Lovold" <clovold_at_mail.mecc.com>
>Date: 8 May 1996 07:07:00 -0500
>Subject: <E30> '87/'88 325i Head Bol
>
><E30> '87/'88 325i Head Bolts
>
>I've had some experience with these. When I put the motor from an '87 325i
>into my 528e I had a lot of dealings with Peter McHenry (I hope thats the
>right name...) who is widely regarded as "the" expert on BMW small six
>engines. He told me that before I even start the engine I should replace the
>head bolts if they were the standard type. You can look into the oil filler
>cap and see the head bolts, if they look like they take an allen wrench you're
>OK, otherwise REPLACE THEM SOON!
>
Good advice, THEY do break!!!

>The replacement bolts are Torx head type and designed to stretch. The older
>type had a nasty tendency to snap the heads off, causing major damage.
>
The TORX bolt is a stretch bolt and can only be used ONCE, that is if you take the head off again later on, they SHOULD be replaced again.

>Peter said that I didn't need to replace the head gasket or remove the head at
>all. Just replace the head bolts one at a time, so the others remain torqued.
>This would be a good time to replace the head gasket if you think it might
>need it in the near future. (good time to adjust valves, too)
>

Yeah, that what the Service Info says, but think about it, when the bolt is removed there is oil that may "dribble" into the bolt hole (threaded part) if this happens and you start torquing down the bolt, there will be a hydraulic lock and possibly damage the block. If you do this procedure remove the old bolt, spray hole with brake cleaner, blow out with compressed air and check the hole with an inspection lamp to make sure the hole is dry.

>The local dealer said that they had not heard of this but were 'surprised'
>that they changed the bolt style (yeah, right). Then about six months ago I

The head of the bolt breaks off and the camshaft punches it through the cyl head....OUCH!!

As for the dealer not knowing this.......tell 'em to read their technical info......

>If you have one of these cars it is in your best interest to change these
>bolts. It is inexpensive (<$40) and only takes about an hour to do. You will
>need a good Torque wrench and a Torx bit (I forget what size).

You will need MORE than a torque wrench to do these bolts, you will also need an angle torque gauge, and there is no substitution for angle torque (others may/will disagree, no one bolt has the same elasticity) anyway here are the specs:

Step 1 30Nm torque
Step 2 90* torque angle
Step 3 90* torque angle

No setting time
No warm running time

>Let me know if you want any more info on this.
>
>
>Craig Lovold
Hope this helps
Regards,
>>>>>REB<<<<<

From digest.v4.n615 Sat May 18 05:21:32 1996 From: GToyama_at_aol.com
Date: Sat, 18 May 1996 01:09:04 -0400
Subject: Re: Advisory on bolt replacement for head gasket on E30's

KKC1 asked about the head bolt "time bomb".

This applies to all "e" (3 & 5 Series) engines, and "i" engines until, I believe, April '89 production. Look thru the oil filler hole for the head bolts. You can only see the front two, but if they're hex-head, replace them all *asafp*. The updated ones are Torx-head. Opinions vary as to whether they can be replaced one-by-one to save the gasket, so I defer to wiser minds.

Mine went with no warning and no sound. I had been putting off the mod, I forget why. My first indication something was wrong was that the "low coolant" warning light came on. Added water, added water, added water, uh oh. Check oil cap, *oh mannn*, looks like chocolate milk in there-- damn!! Towed to shop. A bolt head had broken off, gotten under a cam lobe and punched a hole in a water passage.

I replaced my engine with a '90. WARNING: Sometime between my '88 chassis and the '90 engine there were some differences in brake booster hoses and engine wiring harnesses, which my shop found out the hard way. Though they did get it adapted ok, it was a BIG PITA to track down. Short answer: if you opt to replace an engine, get one from within the same series of running changes. (I have no idea what they are.)

Good luck,
Gary
'87 535i der StarKruiser
'88 325is der SchuttleKraft

From digest.v4.n733 Sat Jun 15 20:17:30 1996 From: sean thompson <sean.ti_at_worldnet.att.net> Date: Sun, 16 Jun 1996 00:29:41 GMT
Subject: E30 head bolt replacement

I did the bolt update today and for the benefit of those considering this job here are my observations:
The few tools you need are:besides bently book so you know what order to do them.

1. 10mm socket to remove valve cover
2. nut driver to remove hose clamp
3. breaker bar
4. 6in. extension
5. E14 torx socket
6. 17mm socket to remove old bolts
7. torque wrench

   8> something to measure the angle(90deg. stages 2 and 3)torque angle guage
   is **THE** tool .Napa has it for ~~40.00. I used a square. whatever you use make sure you have quality tools. these are tight. I broke a cheapo 17mm socket trying to get out an old one.

The bolts and a new gasket ran about 35.00 inc. shipping

If you read the FAQ, there is mention of cleaning the holes w/ brake cleaner. I did do this but the compressed air in my small air tank was not enough to clear all the holes. Make sure all liquid is out of there. I took my time and was careful and it took about 2 hours. not too difficult. withe the cover it would be a good time to adj. the valves. I seem to have misplaced my feeler guages so I didn't do it this time.happy motoring.

Sean-- now rid of that fearful threat of breaking headbolts