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From Mon Sep 6 11:20:02 1999
Date: Mon, 06 Sep 1999 11:14:53 -0700
From: Dale Beuning <>
To: Jeffrey Lucas <>, Dale Beuning <>
Subject: e30 325i trans removal

I did the clutch on my '84 318i (same body, different motor), here are some tips from that experience:

  1. replace the guibo (rubber driveshaft coupling) and the shift linkage

    "knuckle" that's the piece that connects the selector rod to the output shaft of the trans. It's almost impossible to change with the trans in the car, and 5min/$5 with it out. May want to also consider rebuilding the starter at an elec repair shop, as it's a bear to get at with the trans in, and piece of cake with it out.

  2. drop complete exhaust - not the manifold
  3. drop heat shield
  4. drop driveshaft, first at the diff, then in the center, then from the guibo
  5. support the trans with a jack
  6. remove xmember
  7. lower rear of trans, and remove top two (torx head I think) bolts with

    a 24" or 36" extension and a universal up by the socket.

  8. the bolts that go through the starter have a nut on the other side of

    the starter, you'll need a second pair of hands for that or vicegrips or something

  9. consider getting a clutch alignment tool mailorder as I couldn't find

    one locally that fit

  10. buy a new pilot bearing and rent the removal tool, if you don't have one

Also see

Hope this helps

Jeffrey Lucas wrote:

> Thanks for the reply. I have a new clutch master coming tomorrow. I am going
> to put it in and reinstall the new slave. I removed it and stuck in a
> screwdriver. The shift fork is there, in its proper place, and no obvious
> signs of play. I tred to push on it and was unsuccessful as there is little
> room. So, like you, if this doesn't work, out it will have to come. Are there
> any tips or suggestions? I do Datsuns all the time, but the accessibilty here
> is so much less. Does one get the top two tranny bolts by angling the motor
> downward and using a long extension? I will let you know what I find as it is
> truly uniquwe. I am new top BMW's as I have had Datsun 240Z all my adult
> life. I also race them so I am not afraid of the mechanics, etc. But I also
> hate to screw up something if I can avoid the obvious. thanks!
> Jeff
> Dale Beuning wrote:
> > Jeff,
> > Since you have checked the hydraulics and that doesn't appear to be the
> > problem,
> > I'm at a loss for a recommendation. If the throw-out arm broke, or slipped
> > off it's
> > pivot point, or it's plastic pivot point broke, that could cause what you
> > are describing.
> >
> > Good luck and let me know what you find.
> >
> > Dale
> >
> > Jeffrey Lucas wrote:
> >
> > > Dear Sir:
> > >
> > > I am in a quandry over my '89's 325IS clutch. After sitting stationary
> > > for three + weeks, I got in the car and noticed that the clutch pedal
> > > only needed to barely come off the a quarter inch, before
> > > the clutch would engage. I tried bleeding but saw no improvement.
> > > There were no obvious leaks in eithe cylinder. But bieng convinced that
> > > something was wrong, I replaced the slave to no avail. I have since
> > > orered a new master for the clutch, but I removed it today and
> > > disassembled it and saw nothing obvious. It still pressurizes and holds
> > > that pressure. Now I have myself convinced that it is an interal
> > > mechanism problem My first thought is the clutch actuating arm. Could
> > > it be bending or even cracking and distorting under pressure? Has this
> > > ever been reported? I hate to have to pull the gearbox out, but I am
> > > leaning that way. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
> > >
> > > Jeff Lucas

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