From digest.v7.n855 Wed Dec 31 13:38:49 1997
From: Duane Collie <trapdnce_at_erols.com>
Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 12:31:57 -0500
Subject: Brake Advice

Jon,

I think you got some bad advice along the way - let me help clarify:

>I'd like to use slotted rotors, but saw some negative comments here on the
>quality of the ATEs. Is there another brand of slotted rotors that is
>preferable (and where do I get them?), or should I just get the ATEs and
>have them checked carefully for runout (and what else?) before putting them
>on? The additional cost of the ATEs is quite minimal vs factory rotors. And
>is there really any advantage to ATEs fancy curved slots vs more
>conventional ones? ey, but they do "look cool"...)
>
>My general impression from all I've read is that slotted rotors will do at
>least as good a job as cross-drilled, for less money and without risk of
>weakening the rotor, but won't look as "cool". (BFD on the latter)

Ya get what ya pay for. IMHO the ATE's are lousy. They can make 'em cheap cause they can do the rotor pattern cheap with a CNC machine. Any rotor with runout of of spec is no bargin at any price. Slotted Rotors allow gas to wick away from the disc. No concern unless you are on the track. Drilled rotors do similar EXCEPT they reduce the available area to the pad and almost every rotor develops hairline cracks over time where those kewl little holes are drilled. Remember, race teams consider rotors a throwaway

• - they could care less aobut cracking if the rotors get them through the weekend.

>What about "floating" rotors? But this is quite a bit more money, right?
>(I'd go to maybe double the cost of factory rotors.) Any slotted floating
>rotors? (I've seen cross-drilled.) I know there are places that will
>basically drill anything. ("Whir, whir, whir! Hey Charley, this guy wants
>cross-drilled rotors! Whirrrrr!) Are there places that will slot any rotor,
>and is this safer than having Charley drill em?

Floating or 2-piece Rotors are the hot licks - less expensive generally and will help greatly in preventing rotor warp. You'll be Kermit Upton before you need to drill 2-piece rotors for braking effectiveness. I've got them on my car with NO slotting/cross drill and have yet to warp them, but have got the brakes so hot I can crack the track pads.

>How much can I expect the slotted rotors to improve the wheel dusting
>situation? I'd be happy if I could get SOME reduction of dusting thrown in
>as a bonus. I will NOT put on Metal Masters - even though I likely will
>never reach track-like conditions on the road (with the possible exception
>of a mountain trip?) I just don't like the notion of putting on pads that
>are less effective in any way than the factory pads. Just seems like a
>stupid idea... Not for appearance sake!

Dusting and Rotors are NOT related. Dust is generated strictly by the pad compund. Metal Masters are a good choice but THEY ARE A STREET PAD.........let me repeat that ......METAL MASTERS ARE A STREET PAD. They have slightly more heat tolerance than the stock Jurids and won't dust very much. Cheap, too! Take your Metal Masters to the track however, and they will m-e-l-t.

>Which brings us to pads. Stick with the factory pads? Is there something
>that will dust less but would be as effective as the factory pads, and not
>susceptable to the same fading as Metal Masters?

Metal Masters don't fade much - no worse than the factory pads. IF you are getting brake fade on the street, first question I have is what kind of brake fluid are you using and how old is it? If you can't answer thatthen that's your problem.

>If I could get some pads that I could "get away with" that would be great.
>Or perhaps I should just find a place to change the pads and plan on using
>real track pads

Can't do it. You gotta have two sets. One for street, one for track. Its like trying to have just one pair of shoes for everything you do. Go to a wedding in tennis shoes???

>Incidently, "squeeling" is not a concern. I know that this is purely
>asthetic, and although my brakes don't squeel now, I've had ones that did
>in the past, and, frankly, I take it as a nice indication that the brakes
>are "working". :) Typically goes away after a while, anyway.

Squeal is preventable in any pad with coatings and shims, plus edge beveling if necessary. Just that on the track - who cares? Cooling is more important than squealing. On the street, you can easily fix it.

Duane Collie
RM3DR1 / UUC
N.C.C.

P.S. That's the performance perspective - If you just want the look, do whatever you want to waste your money on!

P.S.S. METAL MASTERS are NOT TRACK PADS!!!!! <............shouting................burp............>