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Ron Stygar Carl Buckland Dale Beuning Forums Help
From digest.v6.n874 Sat Jul 12 08:03:55 1997 I just did a pair on an E28 without too much difficulty. The tie rod and sway bar link have to be unbolted to get the ball joint separater in place to pop the ball joint end of the thrust arm. A new arm was installed with the 750i (cut) bushing....I do not recommend spreading the subframe mounting to use an uncut bushing. The only difficulty is torquing (130nm) the through-bolt 22mm nut with the suspension loaded. Its best to do this on a platform (alignment) type lift or on a set of ramps...you'll have to use a 22mm crowsfoot attachment on the end of torque wrench to access the nut (impossible to get a socket over the nut end). The ride is not noticeably harsher and the bushing eliminated the pulsing effect upon braking. BTW, I read the referenced FAQ on the bushings and I disagree with 2 points....first, using a belt sander to cut the bushing will work but the end result won't be very pretty (or consistent) and secondly, I would not want to me under a car torquing a nut to 130nm (appox 95 lb ft) with the car "slightly" off the jack stand as the hub was being preloaded by a floor jack. SD
>From: Eric Apgar <apgar_at_apple.com> From digest.v6.n875 Sat Jul 12 17:10:40 1997 Kurt says (regarding torquing the thru-bolt fasteners on the thrust bushing)........ As far as torquing these, I didn't bother with the torque wrench. If you're unsure, practice on another bolt and then apply that
>torque with a 22 mm box wrench. It's not like the thrust arm is a Getting a wrench on these nuts (especially the right side, even after taking off the cat heat shield) is a pain....you'll have to use an offset box wrench (22mm) on the nut and a 22mm socket on the bolt head. I didn't bother with a torque wrench either...2.5 newton grunts or 2 foot grunts will suffice. SD Steve D'Gerolamo c/o The Ultimate Garage, Emerson, NJ Tel 201-262-0412 Email.... steved3_at_idt.net Web Site.... http://www.ultimategarage.com |
