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From digest.v4.n604 Thu May 16 07:53:06 1996
From: "Rick Kjeldsen" <>
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 09:44:02 -0400
Subject: Re: E30 Jacking Points & Hard Clutches

> I
>jack the front of the car by the frame rails that run down the side of
>the car about 6 inches inboard of the rocker panel lower lip.

This practice will usually result in deforming those rails, destroying the undercoating and starting rust. The rails are only sheet metal, nothing really strong. On a lowered car, the best hard points are the control arm bushing brackets or bolts. Look for them at the front of that rail. Just be careful not to damage the fuel line that runs near by on the driver's side.

I jack my (very low, very stiff) E30 one side at a time, rather than front or back. I use two stock jacks on the stock jack points, raising them at the same time to lift the whole side of the car. Fast and easy once you get used to it.
Then I put the jack stands under the CAB bracket up front and the subframe bolt (just in front of the rear wheel) in back.

'87 325es
'90 325iX

From digest.v4.n606 Thu May 16 11:52:31 1996
Date: Thu, 16 May 1996 12:44:43, -0500
Subject: <E36> lack points

Last night, the BMWCCA held an open house at Midwestern Auto Group and they gave a demo on alignment on an <E36>. He show us acceptable locations other than the pads.

For the front, he used the area just behind the steering rack by the frame rails. There were some slight indentations. If you measure about 8-12 inches from the back of the front tire and 14 inches in, you may see them. For the back, he used the shock itslef. Of course this only works if the jack's pad is wide/stable enough to stay under it.

'91 325iC (Alpine White)
'93 Nissan Quest (Ford Black)

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