Everyone wants a better handling car and a ride height to fit their needs. So I put together a little list of popular suspension items and kits. There are tons of suspension options, this is just a short list of the more popular items.



Springs

The stock springs shouldn’t wear out, but if you want a stiffer spring or lowering springs, here is a list of the more popular springs.

H&R
OE Sports- A stiffer spring than stock with a small amount of drop.
Drop: 0.75” Front, 0.3” Rear
Spring Rate: 200 lb Front, 380 lb Rear *

Sports- A stiffer spring than stock with a larger amount of drop than OE Sports.
Drop: 1.2” Front, 1.0” Rear
Spring Rate: 200 lb Front, 380 lb Rear *

Race- A very stiff spring for the street, and the lowest drop from H&R
Drop: 2.2” Front, 1.3” Rear
Spring Rate: 345 lb Front, 515 lb Rear *


Eibach
Pro-Kit- Stiffer than H&R Sports, but may ride softer than H&R Sports.
Drop: 1.0” Front, 0.8” Rear
Spring Rate: 148 lb Front, 428 lb Rear *

SportLine- Lower than Pro-kit, but softer than H&R Race.
Drop: 1.8” Front, 1.5” Rear
Note: Only 3 series applications, not M3



Spring Pads

There are 3 sized spring pads available through BMW. You can use spring pads to adjust the height of the rear springs.

5 mm pad (33 53 1 136 385)

7.5 mm pad (33 53 1 136 386)

10 mm pad (33 53 1 136 387)



Shocks

The stock shocks on E36 cars are short lived. If you have more than 50k miles, I would start looking for replacements. Here is a list of the more popular replacements.

Koni
Single Adjustable- Rebound adjustable, thus allows you to match them up to almost any spring. At their softest setting they are close to stock, on the hardest setting they are harder than Bilstein Sports.
Note: Installation is not bolt on. You must cut your stock shock bodies and install the Koni insert into them. This is only for the M3’s, 3 series come ready to bolt on.


Bilstein
Sport- Non adjustable. Bolt-in replacements. Bilstein shocks are a lot stiffer than stock.
Note: Bilstein’s tend to raise the car 0.25-0.5” due to their high-pressure design.



Coilovers

H&R
H&R springs paired with Bilstein shocks. They are height adjustable, but not rebound. H&R Coilovers are probably the most popular choice.
Drop: 1.5 – 2.5” Front, 1.0 – 1.75” Rear
Spring Rates: 340 lb Front, 380 lb Rear *

Koni
Uses H&R springs on Koni SA dampeners. They are height adjustable in the front, rear height is fixed, but are rebound adjustable.
Drop: 1.5 – 2.2” Front, approx. 1.0” Rear
Spring Rates: 342 lb Front, 407 lb Rear *

KW & FK
HighSport
Height adjustable only, no rebound. Both are relatively new to the market, so not much info on them.
Drop: 57mm-70mm

KonigSport
Height adjustable and Rebound adjustable.
Drop: Similar to HighSport
Spring Rate: 400 lb Front, 420 lb Rear
Note: Both FK and KW use 60lb tender springs to meet TUV droop regulations. Because of this a spacer might be needed on some wheel and tire applications.

Ground Control
Street kit Your choice of spring rates and a set of adjustable perches, matched to Koni SA shocks.
Drop: 1.0” – 2.5” Front, 1.0 – 2.0” Rear
Spring Rates: Custom designed rates

Track/School Koni single adjustable struts in Ground Control shortened strut housings, custom spring rates, and height adjusters.
Drop: 1.0” – 2.5” Front, 1.0 – 2.0” Rear
Spring Rates: Custom designed rates

Bilstein
PSS Height adjustable only, no rebound adjustment.
Drop: 1.5 – 2.5” Front, 1.0 – 1.75” Rear

PSS9 Height and Rebound adjustable.
Drop: 1.5 – 2.5” Front, 1.0 – 1.75” Rear
Spring Rate: 450 front, 480 rear
Note: The PSS and PSS9 are designed to run on 3 series cars, not M3’s. To put them on an M3, you will need 3 series front sway bar links to connect to the control arm, a 325/328 front sway bar, and possibly a front spacer.



Rear Shock Mounts

The stock RSM’s are wear items and need to be inspected approx. 40k miles. If you are running stiffer spring and shocks or coilovers it would be a good idea to go with an upgraded RSM.

Ground Control
It’s an improved design over stock mounts, uses polyurethane bushings and strong construction. The mounts come with a lifetime warranty. Because of their design they allow removal of the mount from the fender well, a must for Koni SA users. Maybe a slight increase in NVH.

JTD
Again an improved design over the stock mounts. JTD uses a rubber bushing and strong construction. The mounts come with a lifetime warranty. The newly redesigned mount now allows the same fender well access as the Ground Control mounts. Maybe a slight increase in NVH.

E46 Mounts with Z3 Plates
A better design than the e36 mount, it has rubber mounts and slightly strong construction. It has conventional mounting bolts, so removal is only through the trunk. They Z3 plates help to reinforce the e46 mount; these are a good idea if you go with the stock style mount and have upgraded shocks.



Strut Tower Braces

Strut Tower Braces help stiffen the chassis of the car, which will translate to a better handling car.

OEM LTW Brace
A hingless design, it was original equipment on the 95 LTW M3.
Note: It can only be used on cars without ASC, Only the Front bar.

JTD
The front and rear brace is a solid hingless design. This JTD Front Strut Tower Brace will fit the E36 equipped with traction control.

Strong Strut
A newly developed bar which features hingless construction. Front bar only, fits both ASC equipped cars and not.

Active Autowerke
AA offers front and rear braces, but are a hinged design. AA bars fit both ASC equipped cars and not. Hinged bars are not as effective as non-hinged bars.

Dinan
Dinan offers front and rear braces, and also uses a hinged design. Dinan bars fit ASC and non-ASC cars.



X Brace

This is a great upgrade for any 3 series. The X brace stiffens the cars chassis and provides better turn in. A great place to start suspension mods.



Rear Trailing Arm Bushings (RTABS)

These are also wear items and should be checked every 30-40k miles. These are some of the more popular options to go with.

Stock bushings
The stock bushings are perfectly fine for a street application, though they should be checked on every 30-40k miles.
Note: 95 M3’s should go ahead and use the 96+ bushing. The 96+ has more metal supporting the rubber mount and is a revised design of the 95 mount. Also they must be pressed into the triling arm

Ground Control RTAB Enforcers
These are Derlin supports which mount on either side of the stock bushing and help add some support to the bushing. These are a good idea if you go with stock bushings.

Powerflex
These are polyurethane mounts that can be easily installed. Because of their ploy construction, they will transmit more NVH than the stock rubber bushings.

AA RTABS
These are for the hardcore track person. They are a solid monoball mount. The AA mount will transmit more NVH into the car. These are probably left to turbo cars and hardcore track cars.



Sway Bars

Sway bars are used to add or lessen roll stiffness. By changing the roll stiffness you change the cars handling (understeer, neutral, oversteer).

UUC
Makes M3 spec bars, these should only be used on an M3 or 3 series with M3 struts.
Adjustment Holes - 3 Front, 2 Rear
Bar thickness - 25.4mm Front, 23.8mm Rear. *

Racing Dynamics
They make one size bar for 3 and M3 spec cars.
Adjustment Holes - 2 Front, 2 Rear
Bar thickness - 27mm Front, 24mm Rear.

Eibach
Makes both 3 series spec bars and M3 spec bars.
Adjustment Holes - 2 Front, 2 Rear
Bar thickness - 26mm Front, 24mm Rear. *



Camber Adjustments


Front
Front camber is not adjustable in stock form. But there are many things you can do to add negative camber in front.

Crash Bolts
You'll need two crash bolts, BMW P/N 07-11-9-900-587 list $1.27 these replace the top strut to spindle assembly bolts, one on each side.

Strut Shims
For Shims go to Loews the specialty fastener section you'll need one bag of four, Grade 8 Hardened 7/16th washers, one of these go between the strut and spindle assembly on the two lower strut bolts, two on each side

96+ M3 Strut hat swap
All that is required with the 96+ strut bearings is left to right and right to left switch(after swap bearing marked L will be passenger side and R on drivers side). Mount with the arrows pointing forward.


Camber Plates

KMAC
Can be used with stock sized springs. Previous designs had problems with slipping, but the new design has cured that. They use a rubber bushing in the front so there is no extra NVH.

Ground Control
Can only be used with coilover type springs. The race plates use a solid bushing while the hybrid plates use a rubber bushing. The solid mount will make more NVH, the hybrid plate will not.

TC Kline
They works equally well with stock or aftermarket struts and coilover conversions. Uses a stock monoball mount, so there will be an increase in NVH.

HIOP Plates
Monoball design with bushings to match shock diameter. The monoball bearing is "potted" in hard urethane for isolation and a slight increase in NVH. These can be used with either stock sized springs or coilover sized springs.


Rear
Rear camber is adjustable in stock form. With a moderate drop you should be able to get the rear camber back into spec. If you cannot get it back into spec, here are a few choices.

Active Autowerke
Allows adjustment ranging from -5.0 to +5.0 degrees, stronger than stock, and uses a solid mount.

Rogue Engineering
Allows adjustment from +1.0 to -3.0 degrees, tubular arm, mounts with rubber bushings.

TC Kline
monoball joint rear lower arms that replace the factory rubber bushings which can create play in the rear suspension. A more serious track ready part, not best for street use.


Front Control Arms

Stock Arms
OEM replacements are fine for street and track.
Note: 95 and 96+ arms are different, and the bushings they use are different also.

E30 Arms
The e30 arms can be used on e36’s, they are made of aluminum and are lighter than e36 arms. These are really need for the racer looking to save every amount of weight possible.
Note:The E30 Arms can only be used on 95 M3's.


Bushings

Stock
Constructed of rubber, strong and durable. These are the best replacements for street and track.
Note:95 and 96+ cars use different bushings. 96+ bushings are not as strong and are centered not offset like 95’s.

Powerflex
Polyurethane construction, because of this they will transmit more NVH.
Note: Because of the 96+ construction, in a track situation they might not be durable enough. The 96+ bushings have holes cut into them, and they might not be strong enough if an off track excursion happens.


* Indicates M3 specs.



Please post any additions or questions about these or any other suspension questions you have. Also please feel free to refer any new threads about suspension to this thread.

Nice write up

Thanks Sean! :D

I'll give this a sticky and add a few comments.

Bilstein PSS-9 Coilovers
Here's my install and thoughts on them
http://www.rose-hulman.edu/~smithm3/mods/PSS9/index.htm
DTM Power Review
http://www.dtmpower.net/reviews.php?op=showcontent&id=6

RSM
GC's street/school mounts come with a reinforcer plate similiar to the Z3's.
Here's my write up for it
http://www.rose-hulman.edu/~smithm3/mods/GC_RSM/index.htm
DTM Power Review
http://www.dtmpower.net/reviews.php?op=showcontent&id=7
Here's one for the e46 M3 units
http://www.rose-hulman.edu/~smithm3/mods/rear_shock_mount/index.htm

RTAB
The RTAB's from 96+ M3 may be used on non-M vehicles.
Here's my write up for them and reinforcers
http://www.rose-hulman.edu/~smithm3/mods/RTAB/index.htm

Camber Adjustment
Crash bolts - these may slip under extreme conditions (autox or track use)
Shims - watch the tire to strut clearance, especially if you're running wider than stock wheels/tires and/or a lower suspension
96+ strut hats - these may be run on regular e36's and will increase camber about 0.75 degrees towards negetive if run swapped

Front Control Arms
e30 Al units may be used on any vehicle (may change suspension geometry) and require more often replacement.

Sean

Pretty comprehensive list , But you forgot to mention Intrax Suspension Technologies . Intrax is a Premier spring manuacturer and produces springs for BMW's for street and racing.



If anyone is interested Intrax produces Sport Lowering Springs with a stepless pitch design. You dont loose the ride quality as with most spring designs. Intrax springs also usually offer you lowest drop when it comes to lowering springs.

We have developed a few premier kits with Intrax and have had alot of success on street and on the track.


Intrax lowering springs please visit there website_at_www.intraxsuspension.com or visit our website www.gmgracing.com for a full application guide.

Available for your BMW.

Intrax Sport Lowering Springs All BMW Applications

GMG/Intrax Cup Sway bar kit for E36 incl M3 includes urethane buishings for front and rear bars.

GMG/Intrax GT Hollow Sway Bar kit for M3 E36

GMG/Intrax E30 M3 Cup Spring Set for racing purposes 3" drop racing spring rates.

GMG E30 M3 Cup Racing Sway Bar kit

E46 M3
GMG/ Intrax Coil Over kit , using Koni revalved shocks with matched springs. ( Optional race springs available )

Intrax Sway Bar kit for E46 M3
GMG Intrax GT Cup Hollow sway bar kit coming soon.

GMG E36 Rear Camber Links;
An affordable way to repair the rear camber issue's of the e36 cars. Fully Adjustable link replaces the flimsy stamped steal link. Ideal for street , time trial , drivers schools. Full race version available with solid mono ball links.

GMG Street Sport rear camber links DTM Special price $225.00 Pr.
GMG Racing rear camber links ( $ call )

Intrax Race Springs 2.25 and 2.50 inner diameters . with rates from 300lbs to 1900 lbs free lengths 4"-10" .


For more info please visit Intrax on the web _at_ www.intraxsuspsension.com
If you have any questions please feel free to email us.

sales_at_globalmotorsportsgroup.com

Nonetheless . Its always good to educate everyone on DTM Power.. All these posts, will no doubt help..

Fabryce

Why is there anything but Ground Control on there??? :D

:lol: Is somebody a little bias? ;)

Now maybe someone could post links on a bunch of good places where you can go to buy this stuff :)

www.turnermotorsports.com
www.Ground-Control.com
www.tcklineracing.com
www.m3motorwerks.com
www.aatuning.com
www.rogueengineering.com
www.pacificbmw.com

Keep in mind GMG is the official retailer of DTM . SPECIAL PRICING IS AVAILABLE TO DTM MEMBERS.

www.globalmotorsportsgroup.com

Sean thanks for listing us also..



Fabryce
fabryce_at_globalmotorsportsgroup.com

www.bimmerparts.com usually has GREAT bilstein prices and will price match

Vogtland Sport Springs (Makers of the TC Kline springs)

M3 3.0L Sport
165lb/in Front
360lb/in Rear

M3 3.0L Club Spec (Race)
195lb/in Front
457lb/in Rear

These utilize the latest in spring steel technology and use a lightweight "VVS" alloy, allowing spring weights up to 30% lower than competing brands. Lower unsprung weight for even greater performance.

Where is TC Kline? ;)

Originally posted by Scho
Where is TC Kline? ;)

On my car, which will be in front of yours at TWS :finger: :D

I thought TC used Vortland or H&R or something else....

It depends on the set up you get. Mine uses koni dampeners with H&R 60mm race springs. Most of the time its koni/hr combo.

OK great info.

Now heres a question, since the fornt contrlol arms are different between 95 and 96 due to the different control arm bushing, does this mean the 96 arm if used with a 95 bushing, will give even more caster?
Also, how much different are the regular E36 arms, vs 95 m3 arms (alluminum E30 m3 arms)

anybody know =0

Could mean more or less depending on how you mount it in the lollipop.

Well, on 95 m3s, theyre set for full caster. Thats how i put them in on my 325. i just wonder this--> since the 96+ bushings are NOT offset, it's possible they redesigned the control arm to make up for that lost caster the OLD bushings gave the car....... whew lol

yes, the control arms are different. You can use the offset bushings with the 96+ arms, but you must mount them around 10-11 o'clock in the lollipop.

What if you mount them in the MAX caster position, along with the 96+ arms, will you have too much front caster? or just be above 95 m3 specs? I think someone once told me the bushings give .5 or 1 degree of front caster. I know after installing the bushings on my stock 95 325 control arms, my caster was out of spec for 325, but in spec with a 96 M3. Ill double check this next time i do an alignment on a stock E36

If you mount them in the max caster position you start to run into problems with tire clearance.

That is a good question, what is the comparison between 95 M3 caster and offset bushings + 96+ control arms.

What the hell is NVH????

Do Sway Bar Links ever need to be replaced and if I did what would be the difference???

NVH= Noise, Vibration, Harshness

Swaybar links to wear out, they usually start to make noise. You can get a pair of adjustable ones, but on a street car stock is fine.

What would be the advantage of adjustable ones??

BTW: Thanks

One more question... I have premature inner tire wear on my rear tires what would be the easiest/cheapest way to fix this???

Adjustable endlinks allow preloading of the bar.

Have you had your car aligned recently? How much negative camber are you running? toe?

Originally posted by ruffneck119
One more question... I have premature inner tire wear on my rear tires what would be the easiest/cheapest way to fix this???

What are the full specs on your suspension?

Actually I just ordered a new set of shocks from Tokico and I will be using the OEM sport springs on my car, when I do the install I want to make sure I get as much stuff done as possible. IE bushings the right mounts and all that. So I fugured I could fix that tread wear thing at the same time.

I have not had it aligned recently and I have no clue what camber I am running. But I will do the alignment along with add new tires when I get the new setup done.

Great write up Sean. :thumbs:

Matthew are the e46 M3 rear shock mounts the same part as the Cabrio ones? I heard a lound bang this morning driving to work and looked in my trunk and low and behold my left rear Bilstien ripped through the mount. :mad: I need a fix quick so I will probably go the e46 upgrade so I can grab them from my local dealer. How much reinforcement do the Z3 plates add and are they a necessity???

Originally posted by ursanegro
Great write up Sean. :thumbs:

Matthew are the e46 M3 rear shock mounts the same part as the Cabrio ones? I heard a lound bang this morning driving to work and looked in my trunk and low and behold my left rear Bilstien ripped through the mount. :mad: I need a fix quick so I will probably go the e46 upgrade so I can grab them from my local dealer. How much reinforcement do the Z3 plates add and are they a necessity???

If I remember correctly all e46 M3's use the same mounts, but I'm not 100% on that one.

Did you have the cupped washer between the RSM and the shock? That'll kill a mount pretty quickly.

if I were you and needed a new set (hey, that was me awhile ago after I tore up a set of e46 m3 mounts) I'd get the GC street/school mounts. Well worth the money.

Z3 plates, how much reinforcement I really don't have a clue. Not a necessity. The car will work fine without them, but it's one of those just in case/piece of mind sort of deals.

Just ordered the JTD design mounts from www.hmsmotorsport.com luckily they are local so I can pick them up tonight and install tomorrow. :D

Now, what is the deflection difference between the red and black bushings? :confused:

i called bavarian autosport about coil over kits for my car, but they said they dont make them. i have a 92 325i. do you know where i can get a good suspension kit for my car? i was hoping to get a coil over kit but if i cant then what is the next best thing for my car? also, why dont they make them for my car, just different geometry and not much demand for it? thanks

You'll need some different front strut hats and some other parts. Understeer.com has a conversion kit available for just this.

Then you'll be able to run any suspension setup available for the e36.

Great write up!

one question... i just got my 95 M3 and ive been researching suspension kits... a friend of mine runs PSS9's in his vr6 golf and i helped out during the install and they are very nice... the quality is awesome and and they feel great.... i plan on autocrossing the car and running track days on the occasion, i was thinking the PSS9's or H&R's... i was wondering what you guys are running on your M's?? and i read that the 95's would need modifications to fit the BILSTIENS.... how hard/expensive is this??
thanks for any help!

and god damn i love my new car :D

The problem with the PSS or PSS9's on an M3 is with the front anti-sway bar. There is no way to mount the bar to the strut with the Bilstein coilovers. So, what you can do is use a link to the control arm instead. You'll loose some roll stiffness up front, but it all works.

Check out the Silver M3 project car for more info and some pictures.

If you use pss or pss9's on an e36 M3 you should you a 325 front sway. You lose a lot of roll stiffness if you use the stock M3 car.

If you plan on tracking or autoxing, why not check out www.ground-control.com . They custom build setups to your specs, they are the best if you plan on tracking.

any info on the cupkit? i know its not a m3 part, but for the non m3 people.
also, anyone have any pics of Hr race springs w/ 18s?

my suspension, w/ cupkit, doesn't look anything near 2.1"front and 1.7"rear as they are rated..

here's some pics
http://www.members.shaw.ca/simon138/pics/

thx
-nathan

thank you for the right up. I learned a lot from it.

do any of you guys happen to know the stock spring rates for the 328's (non sport suspension)?

Front's are in the 100 lb/in range and the rears about 300 lb/in range

Stock e36 front springs are hard to figure. They use the bump stops to crush and increase the spring rate.

thanks for the reply guys....I was thinking about gettin somewhere in the range of 450 fronts and 550 rears or maybe less depending on how harsh that's gonna be. I know it's gonna be pretty harsh on the road. But i've ridden in my friend's car with a cup kit and it's a little soft for autox and stuff. What spring rates do you guys recommend for autox?

I autox and plan to track sometime in the future but definately autox. But the thing is I do a lot of commutting in my car and the freeways where i live at college suck, but I can bare it. The thing is i sometimes take my parents around if they want to ride with me and i dont' want them to have back problems.

What would be a lower spring rate I can use that would be good for autoxing? And how long do coilovers typically last before i have to revalve stuff?

My car is my daily driver and my track car. I use the Track/School kit from Ground Control. It has 450/525 springs, and is a beast on the track and fine on the street.

375/450, 450/525, 450/550 are all very nice street/track setups. I think the 450/550 would be better for auto-x.

:thumbs: cool thanks:D

Originally posted by SG_M3
My car is my daily driver and my track car. I use the Track/School kit from Ground Control. It has 450/525 springs, and is a beast on the track and fine on the street.

375/450, 450/525, 450/550 are all very nice street/track setups. I think the 450/550 would be better for auto-x.


what are your rebound settings at for daily driving? i might actually consider the 450/525 setup. & what RSMs do you recommend for daily driving & some occasional city driving? i was considering using a JTD rear strut brace for shock tower reinforcement.

I left them as GC set them. I have GC rsm's too. The rear bars are a bit of controversy, IMO they don't offer hardly any performance gain.

Originally posted by SG_M3
I left them as GC set them. I have GC rsm's too. The rear bars are a bit of controversy, IMO they don't offer hardly any performance gain.


cool, so the GC RSMs suffice for now, on & off the track? btw, which RSM of theirs do you have?

I have the street ones, they are fine for both.

sean, what are you ride height measurements & camber settings, front & rear, for daily driving?

I'm running 13" front 11.75" rear with, with -3 front and -2 rear. I swapped the hats for greater negative camber, those are really street/track setups. And with 0 toe up front tire wear isn't bad.

-3 in the front for the street?
i run -1:7 and the front tires wear the insides out at least 70% faster than the outsides. i cant imagine almost double that

so your using stock upper mounts?

i have H&R coilover (M3) with stock 325 upper strut mounts, lowered almost all the way in the front (about 10mm from the bottom) thats what i get for front camber
i want to have the shocks revalved for a similar spring rate that your using, maybe even a little more, i was thinking 550/600

H+R has wierd progressive front springs. you think if i get a set of eibachs at the same free length ill be able to set the height properly?

yup, stock swapped 96+ strut hats.

Yeah, a set of 7" or 6" ERS springs should be fine. I think M Rob on bf.c modded H&R coilovers for ERS springs. I'd search on there for more info.

Originally posted by SG_M3
I'm running 13" front 11.75" rear with, with -3 front and -2 rear. I swapped the hats for greater negative camber, those are really street/track setups. And with 0 toe up front tire wear isn't bad.


if you don't switch the stock front strut mounts, how much less camber would you get? i'm still contemplating if i should get KMACs or stick w/ stock upper mounts - i'm just really concerned about inner tire wear.

Probably -2 degrees or so, not much.

Our cars love a good amount of camber in the front, our suspension doesn't gain camber as well as say a double A arm. So it needs -2 or more, imho.

stock front upper mounts should be fine w/ GC's, right (for daily driving, in my case)?

they will be fine.

Hey I just wanted to let you guys know that I just got my c/o with the 450/550 spring rates. It's not harsh at all and handles soooo much better. Thanks SG_M3 for your help. I'm glad I didn't go with h/r sports and konis, probably would have been too soft for me.

Another thing that surprised me was that my suspension felt better than the suspension on my parents merc. ml320.

I have a question about Strut bearing?
I am about to install Koni's and H&R Sport springs all around and I want to replace my strut bearings and shock mounts, but the only aftermarket parts I see are the shock mounts. I don't really need camber plates, because I am not going to be tracking the car.

I guess what I am trying to ask is: Are the OEM strut bearings and shock mounts good enough for a hard dirven daily driver? I know alot of cars you can get urethane strut bearings to add stiffness, but I haven't seen any such thing for my car. And if they are availible, where do I get them?

Thanks!

Zac

If your current strut bearings don't have free movement the replace them other wise they should be fine. OEM strut bearings can handle what you are going to ask them to do.

I would uprage rsm's, GC or JTD are great products.

im thinking about doing a rear ERS in my H&Rs... i did a search over on bimmer forums (also PMed M Rob) and i find mixed results.


if i get a regualar spring for the back..... think i will have ot have the rear shocks shortened? they coudl fall out..

a simple solution is to go with rear M3 race springs(with dead coils, but progressive?) i guess.

my plans were 450/550 also, but what about 450/515?

heres a question
if i get a ERS in the same free length as the spring that came with the coil overs (350#) will the car sit higher?

i dont REALLY want to have to buy a completely new suspension setup now that i have these.. if i could do it all over again id do it differently =)

the cars going to get tracked multiple times this year (id say about 15-20 days) but is still street worthy

To the post above, OEM strut bearings/hats should be fine for just about anything a street car is going to throw at them. They won't make noise, rattle your teeth out, and they'll last ten's of thousand's of miles.

Nico5spd: What's an ERS?

eibach race spring

you can get them in differnet spring rates, free lengths, diameters, etc

Oh okay, I thought that sounded familiar.

Yeah it should work, just be careful with the rates. It'll probably be easier to just get a perch too. I think most people run a 6 or 7" spring. I be Sean can jump in here.

Originally posted by Nico5spd

my plans were 450/550 also, but what about 450/515?

heres a question
if i get a ERS in the same free length as the spring that came with the coil overs (350#) will the car sit higher?

i dont REALLY want to have to buy a completely new suspension setup now that i have these.. if i could do it all over again id do it differently =)

the cars going to get tracked multiple times this year (id say about 15-20 days) but is still street worthy

Nico, GC offers full body rear springs. They are slightly progressive with dead coils, but its really close to a linear spring. Frayed on bf.c just switched to these.

You can run a 7" 550 in the rear, though you will be height limited. Probably right around 12" in the rear. If you are really serious about tracking it, as it sounds you are, I wouldn't go under 450lbs in the front.

If you get the same length in the same rate, they height shouldn't change.

ok if i run a 7 inch 550 in the rear.... it should fit my H&R height adjustment perch? or shoudl i remove it entirely.
will it fall out if i fully extend the suspension with the regular length H&R shocks? (theyre near stock fully extended)


by 12 inches, where are you measureing from. right now i have it dunked in the back all the way and its not very low.



"If you get the same length in the same rate, they height shouldn't change."

ok, but if i get a Higher rate....... wont the car sit higher up? the problem is the cars at a good height in the front right now. almost al the way down, gives me the most suspension travel.


thanks alot man, ill look into ground controls rear springs

I think they should fit with h&r adjusters. I would run the adjuster, the car will be really low without it.

Measuring center of the wheel to the fender.

With a higher rate the car will sit higher with the same length spring.

Hey Sean, why'd Jeff go with the full springs?

thanks so much guys, i think im going to go witht he original setup i had in mind now (500/600)

looking around seems that guys usually do a 6 inch ERS with the H&R rear adjustable spring perch and have good luck... ill try it.

im going to try the same length 500# in the front and see if i can adjust it low enough, if not then ill have to get an inch shorter i guess


thanks for the help.

lastly, where can i get specs for the ground control springs? i cant seem to find any spefic information on the kit. i mean like free lengths per spring rates

Matthew, I'm not sure.

Nico, http://www.ground-control.com/?D=ad2114ae1883465b67301f86e65198e6

SG_M3. what are your rear springs free length if you know off hand?

I currently run 6" 525 springs. I have run 7" 450's also.

With your 6 inch 525s, to get proper ride height are your adjusters maxed low?

the perches are similar between mine and ground control, it will just help me decide which sized to buy first

my adjuster is close to the top, but not all the way up. I'm at 12" in the rear, but i'm going to 11.75" rear.

excellent, so 6 inch 600 is what ill start with

thanks alot

Awesome list, but you should include Eibachs new coilover kit.

what eibach coilovers?

Originally posted by SG_M3
what eibach coilovers?

http://www.tirerack.com/suspension/suspension.jsp?autoMake=BMW&autoModel=328is&autoYear=1999&autoModClar=&make=Eibach&model=Pro-System+Plus+Kit

Eibach Pro System Plus.

Those aren't coilovers, thats basically Eibachs "cup kit" but with sway bars.

if i am never really going to do any serious tracking of my car and would like a nice drop with improved handling should i bite now and get the gc street setup which utilizes konis and the welded on spring perch i believe, or should i go with what i had been planning on getting which is koni sa with eibach prokit springs?

I dont want the rear-tire to be tucked much if it all..would the h&r race springs accomplish that with konis or would they tuck the back tire?

And the last option of all: should i wait till after i install my 18s (live with the fender gap for a summer) and buy the track/school gc setup with like a 350/4xx ?

Thanks in advance.

-Richard

The advantage of the track school kit is that you gain more travel because of the shorter shocks. If don't plan on tracking either the street kit or the koni/eibach setup will be fine. Compare prices and see if its worth it to you to spend the extra money.

Also call GC, they sell all the products you are talking about. They will help you more than anyone else.

I may have just missed it but did anybody give information on h&r's cup kit? I am particularily interested in the spring rates.

so what about 95 ltw M3 suspension on a 96 328is. springs+struts+sways.

is it something worth looking into, or not enough of an upgrade, to make a difference?

i had been autox-ing for a while when i had the acura, but im woundering if the M3 ltw suspension is a decent upgrade versus some of the other ones listed?

ltw springs are slightly stiffer than normal m3 springs. I personally don't think its that much of an upgrade. You can get other m3 spec parts and have a much better suspension.

But it all will fit.

I always thought with bigger and widder tires/wheels the steering was suppost to have a brain of its own (as in go left or right by itself)
http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=123394

so some1 said to replace the RTABs?
ive looked around, couldn't find any on the AA page,
found this off GC
<img src="http://www.ground-control.com/images/bmw/e36-rear-lca1.jpg">
what exactly am i buying here? the two white pieces? the gray piece around them?
Mpact motorsports calls these RTAB shims,

then some1 found posted this link
http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/pacific/quote.jsp?partner=pacific&year=1994&product=L2006-78277&application=000384050&clientid=importedcarparts.com&cookieid=14O168GZO&baseurl=http://www.importedcarparts.com/
<img src="http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/L200678277LEM.JPG">

what are these? Trailing Arm Bushing? TAB? or same as a RTAB?
they look completely different than the GC ones..

I was planning on going with this deal
http://www.mpactmotorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=38_81_60&products_id=95
I mostly just want the GC RSM, but i guess i could replace my Rear Trailing Arm Shims (rtab?) as well.

the package also comes with Rear Sway Bar Tab
http://www.mpactmotorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=38_81_60&products_id=83

where do these go?

sorry im jus kinda confused here.. any help is appreciated!

thx

-nathan

in the pic from GC, you are buying the 2 white disks. You will need to buy 96+ m3 rtabs to go along with them. www.bimmerparts.com is pretty cheap for rtabs.

The sway bar enforcers strengthen the sway bar mounting tab by connecting it to the subframe. You will need to have those welded in.

i have all 3 of those items and they work great. The 96+ rtab with enforcers nail down the rear end.

The bottom picture you posted is a control arm bushing I believe. I think it fits on the top of the control arm.

Check out my page on them and you'll get a better idea of where they go.

http://www.rose-hulman.edu/~smithm3/mods/RTAB/index.htm

wow good write up..

damn looks pretty hard.. and i think im lacking.. about all the tools needed there =(..

maybe i'll jus stick w/ upgrading the RSm..

thx anyway!

-nathan

Ok, what is the difference between the Eibach Pro Kit for $259 and GC's set of Eibach springs for $399?

Still trying to sort this stuff out...

I no longer am interested in doing auto-x or track days (except on really rare occasions). So 99.5% of the time I'd want a reasonably comfortable set up, that is around an 1"+/- lower all around. (Which makes the pro-kit seem like what I need.)

Any comments or suggestions?

Thanks,

Jeff

PS Of course I do want a better handling taunter suspension, that is reasonably comfortable.

The GC setup has height adjustable perches. But you should really get the GC street coilover kit if you are looking at those.

But for what you want i think the Eibach pro-kit with koni sa's will be perfect. What shocks were you planning on running? Koni's will have a close to stock ride.

Also, I think the Pro kit springs are progressive, so they'll have a little bit better ride on the street. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong.

I Have a KW Variante 2 on my car.
And i drive verry low.http://sc.groups.msn.com/tn/0F/C1/DeBMWSITE/2/67.jpg

Here's a little info on a company called B&G

http://www.dtmpower.net/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=85904

I figured there had to be a reason I'd never heard of them :p

So im looking to upgrade my suspension, car is a 96 e36 328i
i was keen on the KW variant2, but they are a bit pricey.. and the V2 isn't even fully stainless steel.. only the fronts.

so from SG_m3 (sean)'s advice i think im sold on the GC track/school kit.. but

a few things i want to ask

GC products are pretty much same price everywhere.. so i guess best place to buy is from GC? who should i talk to when i phone in?

I read on this site that talks about 'stack height' which can allow for more shock travel.http://e30m3performance.com/myths/travel/travel2.htm
http://e30m3performance.com/myths/travel/stack_height.gif

is this due to the 'camber/caster plates' gc offers?
are they necessary?

About Bump stops, should i buy the GC bump stops or are stock ones virtually the same?

im honestly not doing any tracking yet.. the street kit is a bit cheaper but imo not worth it.. plus the track/school kit has shorter rear shocks? (if i remember correctly)

Im deciding between the 450F/525R(6") vs 450F/550R(6")
roads here are quite harsh.. and main concern with my current suspension is the rear is soft (running hr cupkit)

If i go with the full package
1194.95 for the kit
399 for the caster/camber plate
98 for RSM
48 for bump stop
it comes out to 1739.95 which is way over my budget.. hmm any help deciding what i should get?

or should i just go with HR sports with konis?
sigh i don't know.

any help is appreciated.
thx
-nathan

Talk to Dale, Tony, or Jay if you can get a hold of him.

Yes the reduced stack height, and added travel are due to the camber plates. Unless you are going to track a lot, i wouldn't run camber plates.

Buy the GC bumstops, it takes some of the guessing out of it. I have them.

The track/school has shorter front housings and up to 5 different rear shocks. The rear shock will be height and spring dependent. I think the track/school kit is worth the extra over the street kit.

If you are worried about ride quality then you might get the 375/450 springs. I run the 450/525 springs and it can be hars at times. Talk to Dale he will help you out.

You might check out www.mpactmotorsports.com they offer a track/school plus kit with rsm's included.

In all honesty, if you are not going to track. I would just get hr sports/koni's. I used to have this setup and it was very comfortable and very streetable. But the coilover setup will handle better and can ride better depending on the springs. Call up GC and talk to them.

would you recommend the H&R sports with the konis over the bilstein shocks? how are they different?

I would tell anyone to get koni's over bilstieins. Bilsteins aren't bad shocks, but they run too much initial compression which makes them stiff as can be on the street. Plus koni's will give you adjustable dampening.

Im getting the GC track/school kit
and im running
hamann 18x8.5 +38 (or +35) offset
tires 235/40/18 yoko avs

car is a 96 328i

will i need to run spacers?

I asked Rob at mpact, and he said probably not but not for sure.

If no one knows, how should i go abouts checking whether i need one or not when im installing the coilovers? Will my wheels just not fit at all?

tia

-nathan

Anyone familiar with the UCC suspension??? The price and drop seem appealing, but I'd really like some real world perspecitves.

Originally posted by diegom3
Anyone familiar with the UCC suspension??? The price and drop seem appealing, but I'd really like some real world perspecitves.

Here's a thread on the uuc suspension of Bimmerforums

http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=194917

Hope this is helpful

-Phil

Hey SG_M3, nice write up. You directed me here from the other suspension FAQ but I'm still clueless. It's not you but me.

Here's what I'm getting
H&R OE Sports Springs
Bilstein Shocks
E46 Mounts with Z3 Plates RSM
Ground Control RTAB Enforcers

Is there anything else I should change or check? I have 88k miles. Thanks for your help.

IMO, i would swap koni's for the bilsteins, and GC RSM's for the e46 mounts.

As for anything else you can get new rtabs, check your front control arm bushings.

How hard would it be to put in the koni's into M3s? With the GC RSM's, when you say slight increase in NVH is it really noticable? There are alot of bumpy roads where I'm from, and driving at high speeds, they tend to get bothersome.

Where can I get the Koni's and H&R cheap? If the price is close to Coilovers, I guess I'll get coils.

Last I checked, the M3 required you to cut up the front strut to drop in the insert.

The GC RSM's don't do much. Here's my take on them
http://www.rose-hulman.edu/~smithm3/mods/GC_RSM/index.htm

GC RSM's are very nice.

hey im new to the site and i have a 98 e36 m3 and was thinking about getting adjustable coilovers i was thinking bilstein or kw ..anyone have an opinion on what to get i have abt 2 g's ..are the kw variant 2 and 3 that much of a difference ???

Is this a street car only or a car that will see some track time? Bilsteins get a big no IMO because of the front sway mounting issue. KW's are nice, but their use of a tender spring means small tires and spacers.

its definately a street car dont think it will see any track time, but i do drive it pretty hard . Im running the SO3's(18's) on it right now . I think im almost made up my mind for the KW's ..Whats up with the spacers any recommendations??

hello,
I have '97 bmw m3 sedan 3.2l and tires are 235/40/ZR18 hamann wheels 8.5" wide all around and I would like to buy bilstein sport shocks and h & r race springs, but when i measured the clearance, it looked like there wouldnt be anything. I am afraid if i drom 2.2" in front, it will rub the tires, the fender may fall on the tires, I dont have much experience with lowering these cars with this set up and I need advise, would that work on my car and tires?
thank you
Robert

You should be just fine.

Robert,

Keep in mind that as you lower the vehicle the suspension geometry decreases vehicle camber (becomes more -) which moves the top of the tire away from the fender.

Also, wheel offset is another consideration as is tire type. Some run larger than others.

here is the link and shown washer from 1997 bmw m3 stock front strut (sachs) and the question is should that washer be transfered, installed in new bilstein front strut shown on the picture or it is not needed and shouldnt be installed, please let me know, thanks
link: http://www.geocities.com/bayeriche2002/Bilstein.html
Robert
motorenwerke_at_hotmail.com

I link this sticky to people all the time, but never thought I'd post in it :)

I've heard a lot about TC Klein coilovers recently, anyone care to compare them to say GC's track/school setup regarding ease of install/handling/price/etc?

I link this sticky to people all the time, but never thought I'd post in it :)

I've heard a lot about TC Klein coilovers recently, anyone care to compare them to say GC's track/school setup regarding ease of install/handling/price/etc?


TC Kline's stuff is the same to install generally as the Ground Control. Granted, there may be subtle differences in things like the camber plates (if you so desire them) but all in all they're the same installation.

Price, I think GC may be a little cheaper but do your own research.
www.tckline.com and www.ground-control.com

Handling, spring's are springs and dampers are dampers. It's all about the settings and rates. Both companies know their stuff.

Maybe Sean will chime in here, I know he's had/has a TCK setup.

I would say GC and TCK have very similar products. GC is usually cheaper, and IMO offer the same performance for the money.

I'm in love with my GC setup, i wouldn't trade it for anything. Vitolo just bought new TCK truematch c/o, he hopefully will chime in.

Thanks guys. Until I make my decision, I also know I need to think about replacing some 5-year old 75k-mile stock suspension parts/bushings etc. Other than the minimal stuff I've done already (GC RSMs, new RTABs w/ GC shims), any advice? I think Jon did this stuff recently too, so maybe he'll chime in as well.

On the front, I replaced the control arm bushings and the outer ball joints when I went with the PSS9's. Then I did the RTAB's a little later on the rear. Here's a little info on what I've done.

http://www.rose-hulman.edu/~smithm3/mods/index.htm

What about TC Klines D/A setup?
http://tcklineracing.com/suspension.htm#da