Removing the Differential

[axle nut] [muffler] [differential] [trailing arms] [subframe] [bushings]


The first thing to do when removing the differential is to disconnect the drive axles from the output flange.  For this you want to use an 8mm Hex socket, not the L-shaped allen wrench.  Trust me on this one.  I thought I would save 5 bucks by using my existing allen wrench and it didn't work worth a darn.
   
So, once I got the 8mm Hex socket I began the ardous task of setting the parking brake, climbing under the car, loosening as many bolts as I could reach (usually 2-3 a side), climbing out from under the car, releasing the parking brake, turning the wheel until more bolts were in the clear, setting the brake again, and so on.  Once I got all the bolts completely loosened, I simply removed the axles from the output flange and suspended them with some heavy duty wire.

My differential's vain, so I got it's good side.

   
Next I removed the 4 self locking nuts that hold the driveshaft to the input flange of the differential.  I used pretty much the same procedure as above.   Had I thought ahead, I would have loosened them when I was loosening the axle bolts.  They were a little too tight for me to loosen using the combination wrench by itself.  I didn't have enought clearance to fit a cheater bar in, so I took a very large monkey wrench and tightened it up against the open end of the combination wrench.   This gave me the leverage I needed to break the nuts free.  Those who do this professionally probably think this looks a little wacky, but hey, it worked for me.

Is it my imagination, or is the garage slightly tilted?

   
The next task was to loosen the bolts that hold the differential in place.   Remember that we are not actually removing the bolts yet, just loosening them a turn or so to make life easier later.  The Bentley mentions that you need to remove the 2 front mounting bolts.  Well, on my car there are actually four.  The two bolts that are on the top have very little clearance and there was no way I could get a breaker bar up there, or use the trick with the monkey wrench, so I just had to use all my strength to loosen those guys up.  
The lower 2 front mounting bolts had enough clearance to fit a breaker bar in.  It was a tight fit, but it was enough to get them loose and use a smaller ratchet later on.  The rear mounting bolt is very easy to get at so that was no problem to loosen.

Yowza! That's a busy picture

   
With all the bolts slightly loose, it is time to support the differential and remove all the mounting bolts.  Fortunately I already had a transmission jack adapter that I was able to use.  I jacked the adapter right up to the differential so that it was supporting all of it's weight.  I completely removed the 4 front mounting bolts first and then I removed the rear mounting bolt last.  The last step before lowering the differential is to disconnec the speedometer sending unit. It's the little plug on the back of the differential. Finally, I lowered the differential, while holding the driveshaft foward so the differential input flange wouldn't get caught up on it.

That's all there was to it!

 

[axle nut] [muffler] [differential] [trailing arms] [subframe] [bushings]

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