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Timing belt, cam seals done. Tbody heater gasket fixed..

 
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tncean



Joined: 26 Feb 2005
Posts: 1652
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.

PostPosted: Mon Sep 16, 2013 8:49 am    Post subject: Timing belt, cam seals done. Tbody heater gasket fixed.. Reply with quote

Been awhile. Suggestions, links, always appreciated.

Less than 30k on water pump, going to reuse it. Mostly wishing to change due to age. It's been almost 5 yrs.

Lets see... belts, rotor, dizzy cap are due. Radiator is original, but not leaking per pressure test. Coolant hoses are 7 years old, but not brittle.

Camshaft end seals need re-doing.

Getting the parts list ready.

Thanks! t


Last edited by tncean on Tue Dec 17, 2013 4:09 pm; edited 2 times in total
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beejay



Joined: 18 Nov 2002
Posts: 1158
Location: Eastern, Pa

PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 8:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Get those 2 plastic clips that hold the wire harness on the front of the T belt cover. Both mine broke the last time I changed the belt. I had to jury rig it because I didn't have new ones on hand.

How's your fan clutch? need to take it off anyway. replace it if it's original.

If the cam seal and oring have never been done, this would be a good time

that's all I can think of.
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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
Posts: 4710
Location: Southampton, NY

PostPosted: Wed Sep 18, 2013 11:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

For all that work T, I wouldn't reuse the water pump... It's a $30 part, so value out your time and see if it's worth it...
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Cosmo - 1985 BMW 325e, Single Owner, 235,000+ ORIGINAL miles and still going strong!

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tncean



Joined: 26 Feb 2005
Posts: 1652
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.

PostPosted: Fri Sep 20, 2013 5:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only $30 water pump I've seen is a "uro"? brand.... whatever that is. The pump on there is a Graf with a metal impeller, and not that many miles on it. Most pumps I've had fail on me in the past were due to bearings and a lot of miles.

I'm knocking on wood as I write this!

Thanks!... t
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tncean



Joined: 26 Feb 2005
Posts: 1652
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.

PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 7:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, todays Dec. 7, aka Pearl Harbor Day. Neighbor and I are finally going to get on to the t-belt and cam seals job. Glad he has a heated garage!
Got the sharpie pen, sandwich bags, etc, ready to go. Been about 4 years and 9 months since the last belt job.
Here we go...
t
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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
Posts: 4710
Location: Southampton, NY

PostPosted: Sat Dec 07, 2013 10:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Good Luck t... Hate this job as you know, but know that it has to be done... I'm not far from needing to do one myself soon, but now have no place to do it!

Please let us know how it goes...
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tncean



Joined: 26 Feb 2005
Posts: 1652
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.

PostPosted: Sun Dec 08, 2013 6:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got it done. Went fairly well. Did c/o the original (280k) CPS, (crankshaft position sensor), and gave everything the usual wipe down. A bit of oil on the front of the engine, and onto the a/c compressor area. Did change out the seals on the camshaft end. The "outer" red seal was floppy. Cleaned the seal carrier well, new seals seemed to fit well.

Time will tell....

tncean
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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
Posts: 4710
Location: Southampton, NY

PostPosted: Mon Dec 09, 2013 6:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well, it sounds like you did everything right... Good for you. Congrats t!

Next time I do the belt, I'll replace the seals. I bought them before I took my last long trip back and forth to Colorado, but didn't replace them, but still have them in the storage room.

Did the oil on the front of the engine stop?
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tncean



Joined: 26 Feb 2005
Posts: 1652
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.

PostPosted: Tue Dec 10, 2013 7:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems ok for now. The only fly in the ointment is I'm getting a knocking sound on cold start-up. The noise diminishes after a couple of minutes. Pretty sure its the fan clutch, which I replaced a few years back. It didn't start the knocking until the day after the job, and the car had sat out in cold weather.

Haven't spotted an oil leak so far.
t
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tncean



Joined: 26 Feb 2005
Posts: 1652
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.

PostPosted: Thu Dec 12, 2013 7:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Not the fan clutch, was the cowling for the front of the plug wire harness.

However, suddenly started leaking coolant at the throttle body heater gasket. Guess someone put pressure on it, and it is a 24 yo car. Discovered the torx head screws. New gasket, breather hose on the way, couldn't find local.

At least it happened close to home!

t
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tncean



Joined: 26 Feb 2005
Posts: 1652
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.

PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got that little slice of a cork gasket changed out, finally. Old gasket broken down.

One of the torx head screws that holds on the cover plate did snap, but left enough of a stub to get at. A bit of heat and some luck got it to back out. Whew! Yep, ended up taking the throttle body completely off.

Cleaned and reseated everything. Used anti-seize on the plate screws. Advised NOT to use RTV or the like on cork.

Got parts from Pelican, and they list new cover plates, screws, tbody heater, etc, if needed.

Seems to be holding, time will tell...
t
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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
Posts: 4710
Location: Southampton, NY

PostPosted: Tue Dec 17, 2013 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

congrats t... looks like you found it.

My car is idling a bit high (all started when the radio thing happened I think), but even though I did it in Vail several years ago, I'm going to pull my ICV and clean it. That might help now that I'm back in the world of smog...

How dirty was the throttle body?
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tncean



Joined: 26 Feb 2005
Posts: 1652
Location: Chattanooga, Tn.

PostPosted: Wed Dec 18, 2013 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Tbody wasn't too bad, as I had it off a few years back for a throttle position switch job. Kind of fortunate, in way, as that when the tbody was pulled, discovered that the vacuum sensor hose, the one on the very bottom of the body, had a small split on the end. Might explain why sometimes it didn't idle well on cold starts?

It is a 24 year old car.

Enis, I adjusted the throttle cable tension set screw by waiting until engine was full warm. There was a "fine line" as to when the idle went to normal, or up a few revs.
Also wondering if disconnecting your battery for, say, 1/2 hour would have any effect?
I clean my ICV at least annually.

t
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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
Posts: 3085
Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 2:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've had odd experiences with the throttle body heater plate.
In 1995 when I bought my '89 325i, a few months later coolant was pouring out of that gasket. I pulled the housing, and it was corroded so badly that I had to replace it.
This was at 6 years old and 110k miles on the car!
New plate, gasket, screws and didn't have a problem again, on that car.

On another E30, I had this just start leaking out of the blue, and replacing the gasket fixed it.

For the Pro3 race cars, we just pull the plate off, and just run the one hose from the back of the block to the thermostat housing.

I think with that place, when it's time, it goes, and touching or not likely didn't have much to do with it.
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