Unofficialbmw.com

[idanity]

recently did this and want to post up a local how to with pix...

its a big job, only do this job if you can raise the car on solid jackstands and be comfortable below your car. this is not an easy job, but i did it all with hand tools...some places, a socket could not be used and only an open end wrench would work

what you need : * is optional
jack + 2 stands
13mm x2 (1 open end, other can be socket)
17mm
19mm open end
22mm open end
pickle fork
hammer
a few hours time



loosen the outer ball joint but leave the twisted over the top threads (19mm)
loosen the inner ball joint nuts to where its loose (22mm)
loosen the 4 rear bolts holding the c.a.bushings to the car (17mm)

ok, all nuts/bolts loose, you can now proceed, if not, (i know, its a bitch...if your hung up on any of them... tighten them back up, and drive to a local shop.)...i will not judge you...better to be safe then dragging your car half apart,
still reading,
ok...lets start.

this is what i got in the mail for <$180 online MEYLE control arms and bushings...


i have big hands, clumsy tools and headers that interfere with using socket sets, and the sway bar was in the way too...so to begin at the begining

loosen the lugs.
raise the car, set on stands, chalk the rear wheels.
remove the wheels.
*remove calipers and hang on coat hanger or something...do not let it dangle from the brake line..
*note, you do NOT need to remove the calipers, if you have to use a hammer to release the outer balljoint then, its easier to remove them prior to swinging the hammer.

remove the 2 bolts to sway bar links to control arms..there is one nut on each side..below the control arm...





*remove the bolts from the sway bar to body (13mm bolt and 13mm nut)



put the nuts back on the bolts so you dont lose em.



this is the inner ball joint nut loosened...i had to use vice grips to bite into the joint boot so the nut would come off (this was a pita with headers...normally with normal exhaust, you should be fine).i really didn't want to remove the exhaust, so i got a thin and angled 22mm open ended wrench to get it undone (1/6th turn at a time

i used 3 wrenches before i went and bought a thin / angled set at harbor frieght...worth every penny
heres my standard wrench...slow going



heres the nut free...we can remove the nut entirely, but i leave it on so nothing just falls on my face unexpectedly



the outer ball joint should be really easy to remove the nut, but the ball joint is a pita...
i keep the nut floating on the top of threads (screwed down at least 3-5 threads) and use a 5lb hammer on it...it should pop out with a good full swing or 2...if not..PBBlaster helps a bit too...
by the time it was out, i had mashed up the nut so much, it was unusable..and the threads were ok.




now, remove the 2 bolts that anchor the c.a. to the body...then put the bolts back in


now, the c.a. should be hanging by its inner balljoint...i used a 2 foot pickle fork to drop it out..it took more than a few hits with the 5lb hammer...and your old control arms should be out of the car.



i took these to a friends place to get the bushings off the control arms



highly recomended to use a real tool.



and to press the bushings in, we used a 12 ton jack, compressor (pic not available yet)

and to get them back on my new control arms, i used my trusty floorjack and truck bumper with an old socket to push it down all the way.






whew..
the install is basically the reverse, but SO MUCH EASIER.
if you removed the sway bar entirely, reinstall it on the frame PRIOR to the control arms.
tighten it all up to specs per bentley, and maybe check them in 50 miles or so
hope that helps anyone.

_________________
..........

[robert1700]

thank you, I need to do this to one of my cars. Oh I started a Used Car lot. You need to come check it out.
_________________
1987 325i Convertible
51,000+ miles
Sold to a friend car is now destroyed, such a same.