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Camina · Joined: 03 May 2004 Posts: 99 Location: Boston, MA

I have a 1988 325 Coupe and it looks like cylinder 2 is bad. Compression was around 100 where it should be around 150 like the others.

My mechanic tried changing the plugs (plug 2 was black) and adjusting the valves because of a ticking noise from the engine. The ticking noise didn't go away and now smoke comes out even worse.

My mechanic says I need a new engine. Any ideas as to how much a rebuilt engine goes for and what year engines are compatible for a replacement for my car ?
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1988 325, "super eta", 300k+ miles

idanity · Joined: 21 May 2005 Posts: 3097 Location: N.W.U.S.A.

could be a bad valve...but people on here have swapped engines in a single day.
and
i have found (esp craigslist) m20 engines for 200 bucks...usually 300 for a known good one...i would not pay more than 500.00 unless i could drive the car prior to pulling it...and see its oil change schedule, air filter change schedule, etc....but theres plenty of rusty low mileage e30s just sitting around.

Robert1700 bought one from a reputable place (aurora) and it was 'bad", and had to be replaced..and i htink they replaced it free ...(after it was already swapped though).

its a crap shoot, but a low mileage m20 with good maintenence and history will last a very long time (200.000 miles).

or.
you could bite the bullet and shove a 2003 m3 engine / tranny in there and have one of the fastest e30s ever.

just sayin.
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Ken Juul · Posted: Wed Aug 17, 2011 9:42 am Post subject: re

If it is only one cylinder, why replace the engine? What could it be....bad valve, bad valve seal, perhaps broken piston ring or maybe just a bad head gasket.

I would suggest getting a second opinion, it is a whole lot easier to fix a problem than swap in an engine with unknowns....but then maybe that's your mech's idea.

Camina · Joined: 03 May 2004 Posts: 99 Location: Boston, MA

Well, what is strange now is I was able to drive it 25 miles (mostly highway) to work today. I saw a little smoke while warming it up and leaving my house. But, by the time I was on the highway the smoke stopped. It's running like normal now and so far isn't sputtering when Idling like before. Now what do I do ?

Could it be a bad valve ? After the mechanic messed with it could oil have sneaked into the exhaust ?
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1988 325, "super eta", 300k+ miles

85-325e · Joined: 30 Jun 2002 Posts: 4712 Location: Southampton, NY

You could try a hot soak with Seafoam and see if it's just a carbonized valve.

For what it's worth, these engines have valves that always tick. The best way to describe the sound is that of an old Singer sewing machine.
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Cosmo - 1985 BMW 325e, Single Owner, 265,000+ ORIGINAL miles and still going strong! But now on the East Coast and the salt air corrosion is eating my beautiful car alive... Sad

Camina · Joined: 03 May 2004 Posts: 99 Location: Boston, MA

Ken - Yeah, I agree with you. If it's a small problem I would rather fix it. The mechanic is busy and would rather just replace the engine with the idea that would be quicker and cheaper than taking my engine apart and trying to first find the problem then repair it. The engine does have around 340k miles on it but up til now I never had a problem.
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1988 325, "super eta", 300k+ miles

tncean · Joined: 26 Feb 2005 Posts: 1652 Location: Chattanooga, Tn.

340k is a lot of miles! If you're really into keeping the car, I'd consider a rebuilt crate engine, or a used one with a warranty. A decent wrench can probably c/o engine and all systems in a few days.

Another option, especially if you don't use car in winter, is to have engine rebuilt locally.

I think the Seafoam suggestion worth a try. And, yes, the valves do tick, like a well-oiled sewing machine.

Good luck... tncean

Ken Juul · Posted: Thu Aug 18, 2011 9:26 am Post subject: RE engine

Is it burning oil? Notice significant power loss? Have you kept up with normal maintenance items? Don't let the high miles scare you. My first 325 was still running solid at 425K, sold it because of non mechanical issues.

Try the seafoam, give it a double shot of Techron to clean out the injectors. Run it hard for a bit and try a second compression test before you think the engine is shot.

Soviet Sniper · Joined: 09 Nov 2004 Posts: 1081 Location: Edina MN

Get another engine, it's relatively cheap. Would not recommend getting a new/rebuilt/different engine unless the rest of the car is mostly likewise new/rebuilt.
Any M20 should work (I'd keep it 2.5 though and "eta" like your current one) unless you also want a different transmission and or differential.
Check your local craigslist for a parts car.
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1988 325is | 199k+ | First car (now s52 powered) Cool

1992 Saab c900 | 200k+ | Winter vehicle
1982 Virago xv920j | 25k+ | Cool

85-325e · Joined: 30 Jun 2002 Posts: 4712 Location: Southampton, NY

Sniper... he's got a Super ETA, not just a regular ETA engine. They're not that many of them out there.

FYI Sniper, the ETA is a 2.7 litre engine, not a 2.5... not sure about the ETA but I think it's also 2.7 litres.

Try the hot soak and see if it chips off some of the carbon on the valves. It may fix it and you're off and running... If not, then explore other avenues.
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Cosmo - 1985 BMW 325e, Single Owner, 265,000+ ORIGINAL miles and still going strong! But now on the East Coast and the salt air corrosion is eating my beautiful car alive... Sad

Soviet Sniper · Joined: 09 Nov 2004 Posts: 1081 Location: Edina MN

Whatever. I am not attentive to detail today.... 2.7 that is. Cool

By the way, I really don't think seafoam will alleviate bad compression.
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1988 325is | 199k+ | First car (now s52 powered) Cool

1992 Saab c900 | 200k+ | Winter vehicle
1982 Virago xv920j | 25k+ | Cool

85-325e · Joined: 30 Jun 2002 Posts: 4712 Location: Southampton, NY

If valves aren't seating properly as they open and close because of carbon deposits, you don't have the proper closure needed. The Seafoam cleans up the valve heads and seats and gets rid of all the crud.

You're right though.. it's a crap shoot... but it only costs $7 and a little time to know for sure...
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Cosmo - 1985 BMW 325e, Single Owner, 265,000+ ORIGINAL miles and still going strong! But now on the East Coast and the salt air corrosion is eating my beautiful car alive... Sad

tncean · Joined: 26 Feb 2005 Posts: 1652 Location: Chattanooga, Tn.

I do agree with 325e... would give the seafoam and fuel injection cleaners a shot first, esp with other compressions being ok. As Ken suggested, need to get the rpm's on up there for a good few minutes to help burn that stuff out.

Would also double check valve clearances, esp #2 cyl. Check the rocker arms, too.

I recall how amazed I was at the amount of carbon that was on top of the pistons, on valves, when I did a cyl head rebuild on my 90i some years back. Seems there was at least a large tablespoon's worth on each piston.

I now run Lucas cyl head stuff about every 5k.

Heads up on a bit of smoke when running the Seafoam through.

?? Would a misfiring fuel injector give same symptoms?

Good luck... tncean

gr8acclaim · Joined: 17 Mar 2005 Posts: 95 Location: Greenfield, Indiana

I don't know that the mechanic is thinking it would be cheaper and easier to replace it. I naturally assume the worst about mechanics at a shop and would think he's probably trying to sucker you into springing for a new engine when you don't really need to spend that much money at all. It's almost always better to deal with problems you know than it is to spend a bunch of money to get something with problems you DON'T know.

And I'm not surprised at all that it would smoke more after putting a new plug in. Old greasy black plug probably wasn't firing at all, and when the new one got in there and started lighting things off, all the built up oil and crud started burning off. I mean, come on... If the plug is black and nasty, surely the rest of the inside of the chamber was pretty similar. And crud built up around the edges of the valves could contribute to a poor seal, or crud building up in the rings could contribute to a poor seal there.

Run some seafoam through it and some of these other suggestions. Take it out in the country and let it scream and blow the built up crap out of it. Give it a good carbiovascular workout... Then pull that plug out and see how it looks and redo that pressure test. If it's all black and greasy like the old one, maybe it does need a little work. Or if the pressure's off still. Of course, there IS an amount of acceptable difference in the pressure test from cylinder to cylinder, too. Down a third seems a lot though.

Most of all, have faith in your car. Believe in your car. Unless it's BROKEN (which it's not because it runs), it's just a little sickly right now. Sure, that's a good bit of miles on it, but I've seen them with more. If you give it a little love and care and let it know you believe in it, it'll practically fix itself for you. You said it idles better and quit smoking so much... MAYBE IT ALREADY DID!

Or if it keeps it up over the next week or two, you'll have some time to shop around for a new engine to slap in there.
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1992 Plymouth Sundance Duster -- 263,000 miles -- RIP due to rust;
1991 BMW 325i -- 158,546 miles (plus ? miles when the odo didn't work!)

Camina · Joined: 03 May 2004 Posts: 99 Location: Boston, MA

Yeah, my engine is a 2.7.

After about a week the car still seems to be running ok. No smoke. One thing I failed to mention is the car did burn some oil. I would have to add a quart or two in between oil changes.

Ideling from a cold start is a little shakey but it seems once I get going it runs better. I took everyone's advice by trying the Techron. I threw in a large container of it on Friday with about 1/2 tank and will try another. I saw the seafoam at the store too. Do I need my mechanic to spray it in my engine ? Where does it spray into exactly ?
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1988 325, "super eta", 300k+ miles