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Pro3 car, Day 27
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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
Posts: 3087
Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2008 2:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, adding camber actually reduces braking ability due to less contact
patch of the tire when you tilt it in.
You can see how small the contact patch is when you flat-spot a tire
in breaking, surprisingly small, almost always on the inside portion
of the tread.

Here is the car sitting lower due to new camber plates:


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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
Posts: 3087
Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2008 7:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

New style Z3 1.9 shift lever. No yellow washers needed. This shortens
the shift throw by 30% (approx) and is the least expensive short-shifter
option out there.


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wazzu70



Joined: 26 Jul 2005
Posts: 838
Location: Issaquah, WA

PostPosted: Tue May 06, 2008 7:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dale, you should have gone with the DTM shifter by AKG motorsports Very Happy puts the shifter right up by the wheel! Plus its a replica DTM part which makes it that much cooler! The Z3 one is really nice though, its what I have in my car Very Happy

Also the Vorshlag plates ARE really tall. I dont suppose you have any profile pictures of the Vorshlag plates compared to the OE strut mounts? Would have been cool to have OE in the comparison shot, but hey, you cant have everything.
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1984 BMW 325e
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1976 Honda CB400F Super Sport
"The bitterness of poor quality is remembered long after the sweetness of low price is forgotten"
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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
Posts: 3087
Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Fri May 09, 2008 1:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Got the Ground Control camber plates in the other day, very nicely made unit.
This lowered the front of the car by 1 inch.
Still have 1.5" to go.

Thinking I had 6" springs up front, I bought 5" springs to lower it another inch.
Oops, I had _7_ inch springs up front, now I need to find some 6" springs to
get everything setup correctly.

I can actually make the 5" springs I have work, but running a taller
spring is preferred if you can in order to prevent coil bind, basically
bottoming out the coils.

All the ABS stuff is removed except the wiring.
Just hooked a T fitting between the 3 lines in front.
For the rear took out the stock proportioning valve and
put in a Tilton adjustable with 11mm metric threads.
Cut the rear brake line under the car, just left of the
drivers seat, added a fitting per side then flared the
line to ISO Bubble style, which BMW and most German
manufacturers use.
Got a nice kit last year locally for $25, it has come in very handy.

Camera mount is in place. With any luck I'll get some
video footage of the weekend and put it up on YouTube.

Race is Sunday May 11th, after 1pm at Pacific Raceways in Kent, WA.

Dale
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Tom Olsson
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Joined: 03 Nov 2004
Posts: 242
Location: Seattle, WA, US

PostPosted: Tue May 13, 2008 11:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey, I can attest that Dale's Pro3 car is kicking butt out there.

About 10 minutes into the G5 EIP race, I found Dale on my bumper, and then we had some serious fun for the rest of the race. The race started sunny and dry, but it started to dump halfway through. Both of us were sliding everywhere. The last shot is me going a *bit* too hot into T2 (I can't see a thing!), just about spin the car, and Dale gets me on the inside. Hah! Great fun. Thanks Dale!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LyDou17LsG4

Next race was Pro3, and the track was wet. Plus the grid was all messed up because they called the 5 minute warning way early. So guess who's right behind me again? The clip doesn't last too long though, as we went Full Course Caution almost immediately.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8AX-Sa-SNg&feature=user
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Last edited by Tom Olsson on Wed May 14, 2008 12:39 am; edited 1 time in total
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wazzu70



Joined: 26 Jul 2005
Posts: 838
Location: Issaquah, WA

PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 12:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Nice videos Tom!
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1984 BMW 325e
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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
Posts: 3087
Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Wed May 14, 2008 2:07 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Racing with Tom was a blast. When you're out on the track to have some fun, one of the best ways to do it is hook up with someone else and try to stay 6" off their bumper for miles of racing! No touching allowed!

The Group5 EIP race was mostly dry, which I had setup the car for, and was a lot of fun to drive. Towards then end when it started raining we all backed off to keep the cars in shape.

The Group1 Pro3 race was a lot of cruising under yellow, then driving in the rain. I haven't got my rain setup figured out for rain yet, and my car was no fun at all to drive in the rain. Kinda like being on ice, it can be fun, but not with a wall a few inches away and another guys bumper a foot away.

Can't wait to do it again.

Dale
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robert1700



Joined: 04 Jul 2004
Posts: 1398
Location: Seattle

PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2008 11:22 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have to do that someday.

P.S. I just had WestWerks replace my tranny and shifter mechanism, including adding the z3 1.9 shaft, and after a week the shifter is a little loose,
still very tight forward and backwards but loose left and right.
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wazzu70



Joined: 26 Jul 2005
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Location: Issaquah, WA

PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2008 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

probably the rear mount for the shift lever support arm that attaches to the chassis. Mine was oil soaked and allowed a lot of slop, replacing it made a huge difference.
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1984 BMW 325e
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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
Posts: 4712
Location: Southampton, NY

PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2008 1:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep, Nick's right... the support bushings make a lot of difference in the overall tightness of the shifter mechanisms.
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robert1700



Joined: 04 Jul 2004
Posts: 1398
Location: Seattle

PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2008 4:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are you guys talking about #8.
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1413&mospid=47322&btnr=25_0074&hg=25&fg=05
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robert1700



Joined: 04 Jul 2004
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Location: Seattle

PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2008 5:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Called BMW Seattle, on order. P.S. Do I have to remove the tranny again? I really hope not.
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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
Posts: 4712
Location: Southampton, NY

PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2008 5:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Robert... Mine is the older style, but I replaced 2,8,10 and 13-19.

You don't have to remove the tranny. It helps to lower it though by undoing the tranny mount. I replaced it all long after I did the tranny. It's tight in there. #10 was one of the most effective for me, but I got a new, standard shifter (originial) and it has built in bushings that go around the pin on #10. Surprisingly, that was most of my play. But the back bushing makes a LOT of difference.
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robert1700



Joined: 04 Jul 2004
Posts: 1398
Location: Seattle

PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2008 5:26 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I replaced all that too, except the bar #10, Francis at WestWerks had it bent in order for the arm to work properly with the shifter. I did not replace #8, never thought there was a bushing in there.
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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
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Location: Southampton, NY

PostPosted: Sat May 17, 2008 6:15 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mine is a tad different. But it's basically the same concept... there's a rubber thing back there on mine. That rubber gets very soft after xx number of years! Beat's a better term. I'd call Pelican and ask them to research it for you.
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