Unofficialbmw.com

[Jaquio]

I know this question has come up again and again, but my standard 1989 325i back up lights will not turn on. It is not the bulbs I know this for sure. I used to be able to turn the lights on by shifting over to reverse half-way and jiggling the handle around until the lights turned on but now it won't come on at all.
I don't know much about the cars, but I saw that the back up light switch costs 10 bucks at eGerman Parts:

http://catalog.worldpac.com/ibusiness/JSP.v.1.01/wizard.jsp?header=http://egermanparts.com/header.txt&footer=http://egermanparts.com/footer.txt&partner=ipb&clientid=egermanparts.com&baseurl=http://egermanparts.com/&cookieid=22U12FV7S22U12FV7R&year=1989&make=BM&model=325-IS-001&category=All&part=Back+Up+Light+Switch

And I would like to replace it if that is what is broken. I just don't know where to start with testing the car, and I am not even sure that is the real problem. Thanks for any help.

[Soviet Sniper]

You should check what you have underthere first. Original switch might be loose, damaged, wires worn through etc. Take your shifter lingage apart and see if you can get to the switch. Actual switch is above the transmission I think, so it will be difficult to get to, you'll have to lower the whole thing a little. Check the place where it is plugged into the car's wiring harness first, might be corroded connection or something.
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1988 325is | 199k+ | First car (now s52 powered)
1992 Saab c900 | 200k+ | Winter vehicle
1982 Virago xv920j | 25k+ |

[Jaquio]

OK, thanks. Does $10 sound right for the back up switch or am I looking at the wonr part on-line.

[Soviet Sniper]

Since you had to wiggle the shifter bofore it's probably the switch itself though... I think it's mechanical, when you shift to rear, some thing in the gearbox presses the switch.

Here is an easy fix, I gave this advice to my 'brother in law'?( that's how it's called?, sister's husband?) He has an E30 in Russia, and needs the back lights working to pass 'technical examination' to drive the car. They actually check for everything to be in operating condition on your car,,, So the states examinator walkes out of the vehicle and tells you to switch to reverse... So I told the dumbass to put a small switch inside to activathe the lights by hand when he needs to.


And yes, Welcome to the board
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1988 325is | 199k+ | First car (now s52 powered)
1992 Saab c900 | 200k+ | Winter vehicle
1982 Virago xv920j | 25k+ |

[Soviet Sniper]

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/shopcart/BE30/POR_BE30_TRANSM_pg4.htm#item24

it's 8.25$

Just disconnect the switch (under the shifter boot) and try jumping two wires in the harness side to see if the light come on before you buy anything.
_________________

1988 325is | 199k+ | First car (now s52 powered)
1992 Saab c900 | 200k+ | Winter vehicle
1982 Virago xv920j | 25k+ |

[Jaquio]

Thanks, it looks like I have some work to do then. One last thing. When you say

[DJB]

I'm assuming that you have a manual transmission. The switch on the automatic rarely fails.

The connector is underneath the shift boot, which unclips by pressing in from the sides and lifting up. You'll see a rubber boot with a cable coming through. The connector should be a few inches inside the car.

Under the car this cable should be attached to the side of the shift lever support with two plastic clips (wire ties will do), attached to the transmission with a metal clip, then connect to the two prongs of the back-up light switch mounted high on the side of the transmission. I mention the clips because they are critical for keeping the wires out of harms way.

Disconnect the switch at the connector. With a multimeter or powered test light check the continuity of the switch when you shift into reverse, then when you wiggle the lever. The switch should be isolated frrom ground, so there shouldn't be any conduction from either wire to the car's body.

AutohausAZ has the switch for $6. You can get it from the dealer for under $10 with a discount. I suggest looking at some of the parts souces that the regulars around here use: Pelican, BMA, etc. There are many web sites out there that are just front-ends for eautoparts/WorldPAC. They all have the same parts listing == they don't really have parts, they just take your order. The prices are generally not great and the quality is variable (e.g. "MTC" is MIssion Trading Co., a brand put on random third-world parts).

[Soviet Sniper]

Harness side is the wires going inside the car. By connecting them you can check that the rest of the system works and the switch is the problem. If you have a multimeter you can check wiring more deep as well.
_________________

1988 325is | 199k+ | First car (now s52 powered)
1992 Saab c900 | 200k+ | Winter vehicle
1982 Virago xv920j | 25k+ |

[Jaquio]

Ok...Soviet, I jumped the cable like you said and saw sparks and the back up lights lit up fine. I am guessing that this means that the switch itself is broken or some wire connecting to it, correct? I figure that I can just put a piece of metal in there for my safety test, but sometimes they make you get out and they check it themselves so I should find the source of the problem and fix it.

Also, my "anti-lock" and "brake fluid" lights are on on my front console and I need them off to pass inspection too. Do I need to open up the instrument panel and remove the light bulbs manually or is there some fuse or cable I can disconnect to turn the lights off. Thanks a lot for your help. This forum is awesome.

[Soviet Sniper]

Correct... The system before the switch is working fine, the problem is down the line to the switch.
Where do you live that you have to pass that kind of inspection?
Of course there are all ways to disable the lights etc... But you should fix it properly, especially if it's brake relater.

Your fluid is probably low... Fill it to correct level and make sure you arn't leaking any.
After that, check connections on the fluid level sensor at the brake container, and ellectrical connector on the brake module itself (on the M20 motor I think it's on the drivers side in front under the hood, there are many brake lines going to it). Those arn't really big problems that you have to go around to pass the test.

Do you have a repair manual for the car yet? It's all in there, Bentley (100$) is the best you can get.

_________________

1988 325is | 199k+ | First car (now s52 powered)
1992 Saab c900 | 200k+ | Winter vehicle
1982 Virago xv920j | 25k+ |

[85-325e]

$100 for the Bentley manual Sniper??? The thing's $39.95 list I believe...
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Cosmo - 1985 BMW 325e, Single Owner, 265,000+ ORIGINAL miles and still going strong! But now on the East Coast and the salt air corrosion is eating my beautiful car alive...

[Soviet Sniper]

What? It's 99$ for my other car... Might be huge difference depending on vehicle.
Even better, I might get myself one
_________________

1988 325is | 199k+ | First car (now s52 powered)
1992 Saab c900 | 200k+ | Winter vehicle
1982 Virago xv920j | 25k+ |

[85-325e]

Check the link at the top of the E30 forum. They start at $32 and go up...
_________________
Cosmo - 1985 BMW 325e, Single Owner, 265,000+ ORIGINAL miles and still going strong! But now on the East Coast and the salt air corrosion is eating my beautiful car alive...

[Jaquio]

Thanks a lot. I will get back to you all with the results. I just spent 4 hours working on it.

btw I live in Washington, DC and the inspection here sucks. And you are right, brother in law is correct .

Talk to y'all later

[Soviet Sniper]

4 hours is good... That's how it begines. After 4 hours you'll stop slaming the car door, after 14 hours you'll nerver let anyone esle drive it
_________________

1988 325is | 199k+ | First car (now s52 powered)
1992 Saab c900 | 200k+ | Winter vehicle
1982 Virago xv920j | 25k+ |