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86 325es INTAKE,COMPUTER SWAP from a 89 325i

 
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kenika65



Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 1:21 pm    Post subject: 86 325es INTAKE,COMPUTER SWAP from a 89 325i Reply with quote

http://forums.bmwe30.net/read.php?5,14853
Here is my 1986 325es with the single exhaust on the ground and the duel exhaust from my 1989 325i next to it(Yes those are glasspacks(cherrybombs) and no I didn't do that...)

The 1986 325es has been blowing grey,and at high revs black smoke, it has been hard to start and has had a bad idle and at high rpm it even back fired so I replaced starter, battery, plugs, wires, coil, distributor cap, rotor, air filter, vacuum lines, air intake hose, fuel filter, o2 sensor, DME(computer in glove box), new catalytic converter, muffler, checked and cleaned all of the computer electronics like the AFM, and the idle control valve, relays, just about everything I could think to do... And I still had the same problem with almost no change. Then I noticed that one of the spark plugs continued to become covered in gas after running the engine for a short time so I pulled the intake and there was my problem one of the injectors was clearly stuck in the open position...(Razz)


If I had too I would replace the injectors and the engine would probably run perfectly... But instead I have a 1989 325i parts car which runs like a top and I am swaping the INTAKE WITH INJECTORS, ENGINE WIRE HARNESS(all engine electrical except the 1.3 MOTRONIC DME COMPUTER), THERMOSTAT HOUSING(for the different electrical connections then the 86es), DUEL EXHAUST, VALVE COVER, SINGLE FUEL PUMP, HARMONIC BALANCER(for the crankshaft sensor) AND MABY THE RADIATOR ALSO(because of the differences in hose locations) as for the DME computer I will put a 1.1 MOTRONIC DME computer and an 1988 Super_eta high performance chip, adjust the valves, new timing belt, new water pump, and extreme clean everything..
Shop light and magical brake clean (86es)

Note that there are 3 electrical connections for the 86es wire harness

Here there are only 2 connections for the 89i harness

Old fuel pumps from the 86es

Throttle body's the one on the left is from the 89i and the one on the right is 86es

The 89i throttle body is so much larger then the 86es that the 86es will fit in to the 89i throttle body

86es valve cover with large intake bracket

89i valve cover with little intake bracket and bmw spelt out

86es wire harness removed

86es wire harness

Note the lower radiator hose location on the 86es radiator

And on the 89i radiator there is no hose close to the power steering pump

86es DME chip removal

The es chip has a white sticker on it with a black paint dot

Other half of 86es DME

Here is a pic of the 89i engine and head with larger ports then the 86es

Here is a pic of the 89i fuel tank that I am contemplating if I should put in to the 86es

Here is a side pic of the 89i fuel tank with a hose comming out of the side unlike the es tank... which had two fuel pumps one in tank and one out

Here is how I have rigged the fuel lines to work now because there is only one fuel pump instead of two and no hose out of the side of the tank on the 86es Note the electrical connections from where the fuel pump use to be

Here is another view

I am also planning on swapping the projector headlights from the 89i in to the 86es

Back view


Well back to work I will post more pictures tonight!!!!
For the time being here are some links
strictlyeta.net
davelength.net (click on cabrio then 3.0l m20 stroker motor)
M50 SWAP
E30 M3
BMW LINKS[url][/url]


Last edited by kenika65 on Wed Mar 28, 2007 11:29 pm; edited 4 times in total
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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
Posts: 3087
Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 2:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Interesting swap.

I'd suggest that you finish the swap and install the 325i head on the eta bottom end and use the 325i chip as a baseline, or find someone else who has programmed a 2.7 'i' chip.

I don't think your idea of your putting the 'eta' 021 or 027 DME chip into a later 'i' 153/173/525 DME will work.
Why?
The hardware between 'eta' Motronic 1.0 (021/027) and the 'i' (87/8Cool Motronic 1.1 (153) and the newer 'i' (89/90/91) Motronic 1.3 (173/525/etc) DMEs is different.

What _might_ work, is to put the Motronic 1.1 DME on with the chip from a 1988 super-eta car. It's the only 'eta' motored car with the newer style Motronic. And use all the wiring and sensors from your 'i' car.

You can swap the DME for the 'i' car any which way, all the wiring is the same, the change from 1.1 to 1.3 was in the DME. The chips are DME specific, ie buy a 153 chip and a 173 chip, same fuel/ign map upgrade, different software.

But the wiring and inputs between the 1.0 and 1.1/1.3 are very different.
One example,
1.0 uses external idle control(green box) and the bellhousing speed and reference sensors.

1.1/1.3 has internal idle control and uses the crank position sensor on the front of the engine and a reference sensor from the spark plug wiring loom.

Another option is to convert to Megasquirt.
Another option is to keep the eta stuff and put in better condition fuel injectors, I have some kicking around I'm sure.

Dale
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87 325 5spd eta


Last edited by dale on Sat Mar 24, 2007 2:52 pm; edited 1 time in total
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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
Posts: 3087
Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 2:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Regarding the 'i' head on the 'eta' block
http://www.bmwe30.net/cgi-bin/datacgi/database.cgi?file=articles&report=view&ID=00129&Section=03

You can do this and the compression ratio isn't changed as much as that link says.
The eta and the 'i' both start with 8.8:1 compression, that's the baseline.
If you want to keep stock or slightly raise compression, mill the head or deck the block a bit.
head chamber volumes differ by 3.5cc

Yes it would be nice to keep the 'i' pistons with the 'i' head for max power but
that's not critical.
If you're going to rebuild the 'i' for max performance, plan on swapping in a
eta crank and rods to get the 2.7 displacement, keep the 'i' pistons and deck the block by 3mm to get the clearance right and compression up.

Use either an 'i' or 'eta' block, they are the same dimensions.

March 2007 issuse of Toal BMW out of the UK has a great article on this by Andrew Everett.
http://www.total-bmw-mag.co.uk/

He also wrote the Restoration Bible, a must for E30 owners

http://www.amazon.com/dp/1855206781?tag=unofficialbmwweb&creative=373489&camp=211189&link_code=as3&creativeASIN=1855206781
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e30_325es



Joined: 17 Jul 2002
Posts: 1159
Location: Annapolis, MD

PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 4:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to swap over the 325i cyl head to make this more worth while. I agree with Dale, in that the 325e chip will not work in your 325i computer, and the computers don't swap either. Realize that you need to make the hole where the harness passes through the firewall larger in order to get the new harness to fit.



To be quite honest, you are wasting a ton of time to get such little gains, where you could have just replaced one injector with out taking much apart and had a well running car.
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kenika65



Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Sat Mar 24, 2007 11:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here are some pics after giving the 86es an extreme clean before replacing the timing belt, valve cover gasket(adjusting valves), intake manifold and electrical... its still a little wet!!!











I noticed that the vacuum hoses are in different locations on the break boosters... on the 86es it is in the top left and on the 89i it is on the bottom right... just wondering if one is better then the other???

The plan is to get the 86e block running so I can drive it for a couple months... power is not needed just economy and dependability... then I will take the 89i motor out and get the "i" head rebuilt with larger valves, ported and polished, radical cam's, new valve springs and rockers.... rebuild the "i" block... maby stroke it with an eta crank or better, new pistons, headers and swap the rebuilt "i" motor in to the 86... and everything else is already in place for the "i" motor(intake, wiring harness, computer, radiator, exhaust and so fourth... so if I can get the 86e block running with the 89i wire harness and intake I would like too for the time being... thank you for your reply all help is appreciated. If you could I would like to read the article you speak of if you have a copy you can e-mail me or how ever... I was wondering what that green box was for... thanks for explaining. So I am guessing that I need to find a 1988 super_eta chip!?!?! even if I don't use the "i" head?!?!? what if I swap the "i" head and don't mill the head or deck the block... then what..?!?!?! What about the super eta engine is the block different or the head??? Thanks for telling me about the whole in the firewall!!! And I like everything to be clean so I had already planned to take it all apart and clean the 86 and replace old stuff... more cleaning pics tomorrow!!!!
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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
Posts: 3087
Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Mon Mar 26, 2007 2:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Please buy the book at the top of the page, I can't type in the chapter on building a 2.7i motor.
And the SuperEta chip is a 'maybe', I think it will work, but I'm not 100% certain, as far as I know no one has done it before because, well, what's the point? A lot of work for little gain.
I still think you're better off just getting the 'eta' system running well while you build up your monster 'i' motor.
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cmcon98



Joined: 13 Nov 2002
Posts: 1844
Location: Boston

PostPosted: Tue Mar 27, 2007 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I applaud what you're doing, as I think it's a good learning experience. There's no substitute for real-world experimentation. That said, I think I'd have just swapped in the "i" motor if it ran well. I'm sure bolt-on upgrades will wake your eta motor up a bit, but you're still limited to about 5,000 rpm with the cast crank.

On the other hand, if you're building up the "i" motor, you can drop in a 524td crank, which is forged, to get a 2.7 liter motor which will hold together at higher rpms. Again, a great learning experience, but the cheaper, easier, and better solution is to swap in an M50 motor. It bolts in and will have 200 reliable horsepower with a chip and intake. Not only that, but it's good for 7,000 rpm and has no plastic timing belt to break. (all chain-driven valvetrain). You can buy a wrecked E36 325i with a good engine and tranny for under $1000. Even better if you can find an E34 525i with a 5-speed, since you need the E34 oil pan, anyway.

Good luck, and report back on what effect your mods have on the eta motor.
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