Unofficialbmw.com

[rld777]

My father is looking to purchase a pre-1998 Miata. I'm doing the legwork for him in the Chicago area as Champaign Illinois is not noted for import vehcile avalibility (sparse and overpriced.) I would like to know what you reccommend too look for / avoid, what years are the "best" to consider, how many miles to expect out of one of these cars, and anything else you think would be helpful. Dad's not a hot-rodder, he won't want a modified car, he would like one less expensive than more, and he will likely keep this car a long time. It does need to be a 5-speed.

Given this criteria, what should I look for, and where are good websites online for these cars? Whatever else you think is helpful, I would appreciate. Thanks in advance!

[JRS]

Well, as a former owner of a 1990 Mazda MX-5 (Miata Roadseter), I hope you don't mind if I put in my $0.02 on this:

1. There are two (2) versions made between 1990 and 1995: Package A and Package B. Package B had 'the works' - headrest speakers, Limited Slip Differential, AM/FM/Cassette, and a tonneau cover.

2. The 1.6L engine wasn't made until a few years. I think it was the 1993 model.

3. The "M" edition Miatas were the 'special' limited quanity versions. The biggest thing was their different paint color. The British Green was the "M" version for 1991.

4. You can tell if a Miata is 1990 by the side mirrors. Back then they 'joint' wasn't as beefy. If you ran the car through a car wash, it would literally push the mirrors to the side. They fixed that in the 1991 model.

So, look for:

A. LSD
B. 1.6L engine
C. Headrest speakers
D. No under carrige rust. (You won't find any on the hood as it is made of aluminum).

JRS

[Roadstergal]

In general, they are very reliable cars with few problems, espeically in NA (first-gen) form. The only big issues were two issues with the early cars. The 1990 Crystal White was a bad paint batch, and the paint will flake, eventually. So if you buy a 1990 Crystal White, make sure it's been repainted. Also, the 1990s and early 1991s had a short-nose crank, so changing the timing belt is a more precise operation, and if somone does it wrong you can damage the crank. That being said, I had a 1990 Crystal White, and had no problems with it up until I sold it to get the Trackmobile. 1990-1994 had a real oil pressure gauge, and in 1995 they went to an idiot light.

The Miata Performance Handbook gives the specs and year-to-year differences. In brief:
1990: first year. LSD and hardtop are optional. 1.6L.
'91: ABS and auto are now options.
'92: Rear subframe brace added; hardtop gets a defroster and headliner. Remote trunk release standard (I hate that feature - Miata.net's Garage section has a DIY on defeating it).
'93: Logo change to "toilet seat on hood."
'94: Minor facelift, new interior. Passenger-side airbags. New engine - 1.8L, hollow cams, new injection system, EGR, other minor engine changes. Better synchro for 2nd. Bigger brake rotors. Front subframe brace added and rear strengthened. Wider alloys. Flash-to-pass feature added.
'95: Dummy oil pressure gauge.
'96: OBDII. Minor hp bump.
'97: No changes.
'98: There is no '98 Miata.

As you can see, a lot happened in '94. For just a street car, any would be fine; because of the increased bracing, the '94+ are preferable for track cars. The 1.8 is more powerful but less revvy than the 1.6; a lightweight flywheel fixes that. The M models had leather upholstry (the only from-factory leather on the NAs), lightweight BBS wheels (8lbs vs. 12 for the nine-spoke alloys, 11 for the later alloys), premium sound system, tonneau cover and boot, bass box in the seats, and chin and tail spoiler. Go to Miata.net and browse; they have a lot of useful information there, including a Buyer's Guide.

Pick up the Enthusiast's Shop Manual; it's a terrific manual, better than Bentley. The Performance Handbook is also nice to have.

Pick up a Hard Dog rollbar. They increase safety and really do good things for the stuctural rigidity of the car.


Edit: Oh, and mileage-wise, the 250K+ club on the Miata forums is large. I remember that last year the winner of the mileage soundoff had just over 350K on a never-rebuilt engine. They last forever if cared for well, and get ~30mpg 'round-town. Oh, and they're non-interference engines, so the timing belt is not such a critical piece as it is on our 325s.

[ 04-16-2004: Message edited by: Roadstergal ]

[rld777]

Guys,

Thank you both for your help, very much appreciated. Dad and I are talking about differances between cars, and considering how new and what trim level of car to buy. Today I had an interesting drive of first a black '96 that had seen a few cosmetic modifications including new rims and tires. The car was a trade-in at a Ford dealer from a supposedly older couple, which I doubt as one of the "modifications" that was not fully hooked up yet were white-LED washer nozzles! This car stands some potential as it has 76k miles and is about $7500.

Then I stopped by a Mazda dealer and test-drove a black '01 model with 18k miles, and an extended warranty for an asking price of $14,995. Both cars drove well, the '01 seemed a bit more solid and tight-no suprise.

I guess the ultimate question is: which is a better loooooong term car. Dad will drive this car until the wheels fall off, then he will get out, put new lug bolts in, re-install the wheels, and keep driving. I tend to think the '01 with very low miles makes more sense, even though there is more initial investment. Any thoughts on this? BTW they had a new '03 in the showroom similarly equipped for $25k.

[board_nerd]

quote

Quote:

I guess the ultimate question is: which is a better loooooong term car

A BMW

[JRS]

quote:

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Originally posted by rld777:
I guess the ultimate question is: which is a better loooooong term car. Dad will drive this car until the wheels fall off, then he will get out, put new lug bolts in, re-install the wheels, and keep driving. I tend to think the '01 with very low miles makes more sense, even though there is more initial investment. ..

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You also get an addition 2 years left on a dealer warranty and you may be able to buy an additional year or two. If your Dad isn't mechanically inclined or sold all of th shop tools, then a warranty is a must.

JRS

[rld777]

board_nerd,

You're right, but my father is set upon a Miata. If you take a look at prices for even a 4-cyl Z-3 they are still many thousands of dollars more than even a much newer Miata. And frankly, the Miata seems more enjoyable to drive.

[Roadstergal]

quote:

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Originally posted by board_nerd:


A BMW

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Honestly, the white 1990 126K Miata that I sold recently had nary a problem the whole time I had it, while my E30 has had a whole slew. Admittedly, the E30 was not maintained as well by the PO, but the Miatae are very reliable long-term cars and are cheap and easy to maintain. The 250K+ club on Miata.net is huge.

rld, I'm biased; I like the NA, for the moddability, the simplicity, and the driving feel. That being said, the new Miatae will probably last almost as long as the old ones, so if he can get a good deal on a new one and likes the feel, go for it. But I'd suggest a well-kept NA.

[rld777]

Thank you for the suggestions and tips. Dad's still in process of deciding amoungst a few different options. There is a '96 green (or is it blue) hardtop in the local area with one owner, 92k miles, and for $5800 that seems to keep coming up as the best one overall. Dad does not want a blue car, however! If you don't mind looking at a few pictures of a dirty car, take a look at this link, is is blue or not? http://img43.photobucket.com/albums/v132/rld777/?action=logout

[Roadstergal]

That's Montego Blue Mica; it's officially blue, but looks either blue, black, or green depending on the lighting.

And yep, that's a filthy car.

[JRS]

Hardtop alone sells for $1200-$1400.

JRS

[rld777]

Roadstergal, thanks for the blue tip, He will just have to see it in person to decide.

JRS--you're right, that hardtop alone, along with the carfax certification of one local owner, makes this car a steal at $5800.

Thanks, hopefully Dad will go for it! I'm going to wash it and take better pictures of it for him to view prior to his making the three hour trip up here.

[Roadstergal]

Have it checked out by a mechanic who knows Miatae; a clean Carfax don't mean squat. Check the body panels for VIN stickers; the're immediately in front of you when you pop the hood, and on the door sills, and... heck, I can't remember where they are on the rear 1/4 panels. I'll look it up. Check the condition of the soft top and rear window. Jack it up and check the exhaust and hangers for rust, and check the suspension bushings on the wishbones. Put your finger behind the valve cover on the pasenger's side; you'll get wet oil on your fingers if the CAS is leaking, and you'll need to replace the O-ring - easy - and the coolant hose beneath it - not as easy. Check the hoses to make sure they're not hard. Check to see when they last did the timing belt and water pump - although that's not as critical on the Miata (non interference engine). Make sure you get the spare, lug breaker tool, and scissor jack; all OE. That's all I can think of offhand... just not a lot that goes wrong with these.

If it ticks right when you start up, that's normal; the Miata has hydraulic lifters. It's trial and error as to what oil gets rid of that noise, but the cool ticking has not been corellated with any engine problems.

[JRS]

quote:

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Originally posted by Roadstergal:
... Miatae...

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Why, oh why do you call the MX-5's "Miatae"... with an 'e'?


My baby... I miss her.

JRS

[Roadstergal]

It's a bit of a joke - many Latinate words that end in "a" have an "ae" plural - bursa, bursae; alumna, alumnae; alga, algae; vertebra, vertebrae. So Miata, Miatae. It's, er, a pretty geeky joke.