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Kjwals
Joined: 11 Jun 2013 Posts: 6 Location: Jamestown, NC
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85-325e
Joined: 30 Jun 2002 Posts: 4712 Location: Southampton, NY
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Posted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 3:59 pm Post subject: |
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Welcome aboard Kenneth...
The radiator you're looking at on eBay is NOT for the "e" series cars, but for the 88-91 BMW E30 M3 (Manual Transmission Only) cars, and there is a big difference... Even "i" series radiators will be slightly different.
These are for the "e" series cars:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-325-325e-325es-325i-325is-Radiator-Behr-17111176900-/190668419511?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ABMW%7CModel%3A325e&hash=item2c64b931b7&vxp=mtr#ht_1916wt_1170
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Spectra-Premium-Ind-CU825-Radiator-/330923068586?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ABMW%7CModel%3A325e&hash=item4d0c8d4caa&vxp=mtr#ht_1357wt_932
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Brand-New-1-Row-w-o-EOC-w-TOC-Replacement-Radiator-For-2-7-L6-GAS-AT-/290815310026?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ABMW%7CModel%3A325e&hash=item43b5f178ca&vxp=mtr#ht_1822wt_1170
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SPECTRA-PREMIUM-CU825-Radiator-/330924436018?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ABMW%7CModel%3A325e&hash=item4d0ca22a32&vxp=mtr#ht_1368wt_932
Also, it matters if you have a manual or auto transmission. Go to PelicanParts.com and check out their radiators, which are pricier, but give you the differences.
Also, you can go to RealOEM.com, type in your 7 digit vin number (last 7 digits), and get the actual part number that was in YOUR car when it lef the factory...
Hope this helps... Again, welcome to the forum! _________________ Cosmo - 1985 BMW 325e, Single Owner, 265,000+ ORIGINAL miles and still going strong! But now on the East Coast and the salt air corrosion is eating my beautiful car alive...
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Kjwals
Joined: 11 Jun 2013 Posts: 6 Location: Jamestown, NC
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Posted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 9:21 pm Post subject: |
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That clarifies a lot about the radiator, and about the car in general. The thing about the radiator in the car now is that it still works but there's a crack in the plastic on the side. That's also another reason why I was looking at the all aluminum radiators. And when the car is sitting for a while it tends to get really hot, moves to the half way mark when on a normal day it's at the 1/4 mark. I've only had it running a little after Christmas so I'm still doing a lot of work too it and don't know as much as I'd like to. Are there any dual core radiators that will still fit this model? _________________ '86 325e 212K+
Kenneth J. Walsh |
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Kjwals
Joined: 11 Jun 2013 Posts: 6 Location: Jamestown, NC
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Posted: Tue Jun 11, 2013 9:23 pm Post subject: |
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Also, It's a manual drive transmission. _________________ '86 325e 212K+
Kenneth J. Walsh |
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Kjwals
Joined: 11 Jun 2013 Posts: 6 Location: Jamestown, NC
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tncean
Joined: 26 Feb 2005 Posts: 1652 Location: Chattanooga, Tn.
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Posted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 7:00 am Post subject: |
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If temp increase at idle is biggest concern, or is cause for want to replace radiator, might want to rule out a few things first.
A modest increase of temp at idle is normal. A big increase is not.
A common cause of temp climb at idle is the fan clutch. There is a fluid/heat driven clutch on the engine fan, the plastic bladed one just behind the radiator and in front of the engine. Simplest test I know of to check it is to get engine to full warm, turn off engine, then use a finger and give the fan a spin. If the fan spins freely, the clutch is bad. If it spins a dab then quickly stops, probably ok.
IF you are NOT loosing coolant, I would suggest the fan clutch to be inspected first.
If you ARE loosing coolant, have a pressure test done. Ask your local parts stores to recommend a shop. Not pricy, will find the leak.
First things first; if you are new to e30, the MOST important thing to know is the age/condition of the TIMING BELT. If you do not know when it was last changed out, above all, get it updated. If the belt breaks, the engine is wrecked. Period.
Good luck. Hope this helps.
tncean |
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Kjwals
Joined: 11 Jun 2013 Posts: 6 Location: Jamestown, NC
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Posted: Wed Jun 12, 2013 7:33 am Post subject: |
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It's obvious of a small leak in the side wall near the over flow spout, that's the main reason why I want to replace it. I have to keep refilling my expansion tank every other week. But while I'm in there I'll check the fan clutch and I already had plans for the water pump, belts, thermostat, and timing belt. _________________ '86 325e 212K+
Kenneth J. Walsh |
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tncean
Joined: 26 Feb 2005 Posts: 1652 Location: Chattanooga, Tn.
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Posted: Thu Jun 13, 2013 5:52 am Post subject: |
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The e30 doesn't like air in the coolant. Be sure and bleed the air well. Try and get front wheels above rear, turn heater on full, use bleed screw atop thermostat housing. With engine running, crack open the screw until only fluid comes out. I often will squeeze the big radiator hoses and quickly release to help move bubbles. May take more than 1 try.
If you are doing a t-belt job, and are going to keep the car, might be wise to update the fan clutch anyway.
Do yourself a favor, use top quality parts for critical components.
Good luck... tncean |
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Kjwals
Joined: 11 Jun 2013 Posts: 6 Location: Jamestown, NC
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Posted: Sat Jun 15, 2013 2:13 pm Post subject: |
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I definitely would not have thought of bringing the front wheels up, thanks for the advice. I'll be getting the radiator on Tuesday or Wednesday. Hopefully all will work out well, I might post a picture of it! _________________ '86 325e 212K+
Kenneth J. Walsh |
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