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Paint Touch-up Techniques from Subscribers to the BMW Mailing List
Compiled by Rich Gay, BMW CCA Lone Star Chapter member.
On February 19, 1996, I posted the following question to the BMW mailing list:
Subject: Paint touch-up technique
Sent: 2/19/96 11:59 AM
To: BMW List, bmw-digest@lists.balltown.cma.com
I'd like some advice on paint touch-up techniques.
My two-month old '95 M3 (Avus blue) has a few paint chips on the front.
I bought the official BMW paint stick, and after washing the car, I made
a go at touching up the chips.
Problem is, no matter how much I try to get the excess paint off the
small brush on the paint "stick", the pain has a tendency to glob up
rather than fill-in nicely.
So, am I stuck with this, or is there a trick to getting the touch-up
pain to nicely fill-in the chip?
And is there any way to smooth down the small "glob"-like structures
that I've got where there were chips? :) :)
Thanks,
Rich
'95 M3
Most of the responses I received are listed below. I'm sharing them on this web page in the hopes that others will benefit from this information.
Subject: paint touch-up
Sent: 2/19/96 12:42 PM
Received: 2/19/96 12:47 PM
From: PHILIP C ABRAMI, pabrami@alcor.concordia.ca
To: digest bmw, bmw@homer.balltown.cma.com
CC: Rich Gay, rich_gay@fsti.com
The thick paint from the touch-up pencil is probably like that because it
is old. Adding a bit of acetone (a few drops) to the bottle should thin
it out nicely. But keep the acetone from coming in direct contact with
your car's finish; it is a very effective solvent! (I use varsol to clean
rusted paint chips without resorting to an abrasive.) Make sure you let
the paint run all the way down the brush stalk and repeatedly wipe the
bristles before applying. A toothpick is a good substitue for the touch-up
brush when working very small spots. Place a small drop of touch-up paint
in the centre of a clean chip. The paint will flow to the edges by itself;
don't brush. Too little paint is OK; too much is a bummer. Large or deep
chips may require two or more passes. Allow the touch-up paint to dry to
the touch before another pass is attempted. Other points to remember:
shake the touch-up stick WELL; avoid applying the paint in direct
sunlight, when its very hot or very cold, and when its windy or otherwise
dusty.
Good luck. Now register your beautiful car for a CCA driving school where
it will really shine.
Regards,
Phil
Subject:
Sent: 2/19/96 1:10 PM
Received: 2/19/96 1:26 PM
From: Ben John Feng, bfeng@ford.com
To: Rich Gay, rich_gay@fsti.com
Regarding your touch-up paint problems.
That "globbing up" tendency is typical of
touchup paints. Start with a drop of thick liquid
with very high surface tension and sure enough,
it beads up. On the positive side, it doesn't run
all over the place, it doesn't accidently drip off the
little brush, and it fills up the chip in one (or two)
applications.
If you thin some touchup paint with
some 'fast' lacquer thinner you may be able to get it
to flow out better but the trade off is that you'll
have to do many applications to get the chip filled
in. Also, too much lacquer thinner (whatever too
much really is) can soften up the surrounding paint
(and it may not harden back to the original condition).
You're not likely to ever get a consistency that fills
in those chips perfectly smoothly.
What to do about those blobs that are already there?
I'll assume you are using a two part, color
and clear, touch up paint. Right? If yes, hopefully the
blob that sticks up above the surrounding paint is the
clear coat (e.g. the color touchup layer is below the
surrounding paint surface). What you can do is smooth out the
clear coat blob with a sanding block and then hand rub to a gloss
with one of the newer polishing compounds.
For a sanding block, see if your local auto refinishing retailer
sells a kind of block that have a particular grit built into them.
I believe Micro-Mesh is one such brand (popular among stringed
instrument makers for polishing the intricacies of violins etc.).
They are usually available in tiny little blocks (1" x 2"). I'd
start with 600 or 800 grit and then do 1000 followed by 1500 grit
(all used wet). Be careful to ONLY sand the touchup spot itself.
You'll eventually end up sanding a tiny bit of the surrounding
surface when you get to the 1000 grit, but that is what you want if
you want the surface level.
After the 1500 grit sanding rub the area out by hand with a
paint polish (NOT rubbing compound), also available at your local
automotive paint refinish retailer.
Subject: M3 touch-up
Sent: 2/19/96 1:57 PM
Received: 2/19/96 1:59 PM
From: Roger Graves - X4076 - Rog Racer, rgraves@snake326.orl.mmc.com
To: Rich Gay, rich_gay@fsti.com
Rich,
The brush on the touch-up paint is way too big. Go to an arts supply
store and get a fine-tip brush - this works way better for small
touch ups.
It is possible, though, to sand "blobs" to a flush match with the surrounding
paint....try using 1000 grit sand paper wrapped around a small wooden block...
go slow and try not to contact the surrounding paint. Once flush, use your
new paint brush to apply a coat of clear, then sand as above, and finish
with a *good* polish. This technique, with a little practice, will make
the touch-up almost invisable.
Regards,
Roger W. Graves
'95 M3
Subject: Re: M3 touch-up
Sent: 2/19/96 2:35 PM
Received: 2/19/96 2:40 PM
From: Roger Graves - X4076 - Rog Racer, rgraves@snake326.orl.mmc.com
To: Rich Gay, rich_gay@fsti.com
>
> Thanks for the pointers! I'll give them a try.
>
> >Once flush, use your
> >new paint brush to apply a coat of clear, then sand as above, and finish
> >with a *good* polish.
>
> For the polish, something like Zymol which I hear so much about? After
> polishing, then wax?
>
> Rich
>
I don't know anything, really, about Zymol. When I say polish, I mean a
pro-grade silicone-free polish used specifically after a car is painted.
I use 3M products, available at auto-paint supply stores. It's available
in a number of "grades"...you need a light-duty polish, perhaps finishing
up afterward with with 3M's "hand glaze". Do *not* use a wax of any sort
on a freshly painted surface. It is my experience that the K-mart
variety of "polishes" are to be avoided. You will need to go to an auto-paint
supply store to get the right stuff. Incidently, I believe the OEM
paint system for your M3 is made by Glasurit...though I have not used
them, I believe they make a post-paint polishing system that might
be perfect.
Regards,
Roger
Subject: Touch up paint
Sent: 2/19/96 2:17 PM
Received: 2/19/96 2:40 PM
From: Harvey Chao, Harvey_Chao@smtp.svl.trw.com
To: Rich Gay, rich_gay@fsti.com
Maybe too late for work already done, but in the future forget the brush that
comes attached to the top of the paint container. Go to an art supply place
and get a #000 sable brush (very fine) and use that to slowly fill and build
up paint in the nick. I usually find enought paint sitting on the bottle lip
(esp. after I "scrape" it off the stem of the cap brush) to use to wet my own
brush. Works much better. Don't forget to keep the paint shaken so that the
pigments and metalics stay eveny distrubuted.
Harvey
For
Your
Information
dcp'90
Subject:
Sent: 2/19/96 2:27 PM
Received: 2/19/96 2:44 PM
From: Ben John Feng, bfeng@ford.com
To: Rich Gay, rich_gay@fsti.com
Hi Rich,
Okay, yes you can sand the color layer then apply your clear touch
up. The problem is that you'll never get this repair flush with the
surrounding paint. Why? To get it flush, you need to have a color
layer that's thinner than the factory paint (which is probably less
than 5 or 6 thousands in the first place). On the other hand, you
might make it look a little less obtrusive if you sand the color
touchup down flush then apply some slightly thinned clear coat.
Procedure is the same:
1) Get 1 or more fine grit sanding blocks (600grit or finer). Get a
fairly hard/stiff block so you can take down the bump without
sanding the surrounding paint (until the bump is flush).
2) Sand the bump down flush. Better to be conservative with the
sanding than to rub thru the factory paint. By the way,
always sand with a drizzle of water flowing over
the area. The water lubricates the sand paper (doesn't clog
up), and washes away grit that can cause deep scratches.
3) Dry and clean the area
4) Apply clear coat touch up paint.
As I mentioned before, you can thin the clear coat a little to get it
to go on flatter. Lacquer thinner is the probably solvent you'll use
(get 'fast' thinner), but it maybe the case that your paint is
compatible with a reducer that isn't as aggressive as Lacq. thinner.
My concern is that too aggressive a thinner could soften/weaken the
surrounding factory clear/color coat bond. See if your dealer
knows what kind of paint that touch up stuff is. Then go down to the
local refinishing retailer and ask them what they would recommend for
thinning it out a little bit. If you're lucky, it will go on pretty
smoothly. If not, let it dry for a week or two and then sand and
polish. The obvious alternative is to dab it on just as you did with
the color touchup, then sand it down as close to flush as you can. It
will be imperfect, but it should look pretty good from most viewing
positions.
Subject: Re: Paint touch-up technique
Sent: 2/19/96 2:47 PM
Received: 2/19/96 2:49 PM
From: Shane Callaghan, stc@ra.isisnet.com
To: Rich Gay, rich_gay@fsti.com
CC: BMW List, bmw-digest@lists.balltown.cma.com
Rich Gay wrote:
I'd like some advice on paint touch-up techniques.
My two-month old '95 M3 (Avus blue) has a few paint chips on the
front. I bought the official BMW paint stick, and after washing
the car, I made a go at touching up the chips.
Problem is, no matter how much I try to get the excess paint off
the small brush on the paint "stick", the pain has a tendency to
glob up rather than fill-in nicely.
So, am I stuck with this, or is there a trick to getting the
touch-up pain to nicely fill-in the chip?
There is a trick - don't use a brush! First of all, make sure the
edges of the chip are not brittle (good adhesion), clean it as well
as you can (you can use a fiber stick or a pencil eraser with
sandpaper glued to it if the chip is that big), and use a toothpick
dipped in paint. It is a gradual process, but it works well. Dab the
paint into the chip in *small* amounts. Layer it until it is just
barely above the surrounding surface, and then wet sand. It's been a
while - maybe 2000 grit? You should be able to get a nicely blended
repair - poilsh and wax.
STC
_____________________________________________________________
Shane T. Callaghan Halifax, Nova Scotia
'88 RX-7 Turbo (10th Anniversary)
'89 BMW 525i
Subject: Re: Paint touch-up technique
Sent: 2/19/96 3:58 PM
Received: 2/19/96 3:59 PM
From: EDPM3@aol.com
To: Rich Gay, rich_gay@fsti.com
Rich,
I just included this tech tip in our chapter newsletter. I can't personally
vouch for the technique, but it sounds like it should work. I am not posting
it to the Digest because it is really belongs to Glenn Racine.
So, for what it's worth.
>>"Have you ever tried to touch up stone chips in your car's paint, and when
you were finished you decided the chips really didn't look that bad after
all? Well, this tech tip may inspire you to attack those ugly little paint
pits with renewed vigor. All of this, of course, assumes a stone chip would
be a noticeable blemish in your car's finish. This technique was demonstrated
to me by Steve Slotten of Car Buff fame. It goes like this:
1. Find a chip and clean thoroughly with Zymol HD Cleanse.
2. Using a very fine paint brush, (from your local hobby store) place a small
drop of paint in the crater.
3. Allow the paint to set up for 2-5 minutes.
4. Using your all-cotton rag with HD Cleanse and your fingertip, roll the
paint into the edges of the chip. Begin to smooth the remainder of the drop
by gently rubbing back and forth across the repair. Continue working the
paint with a polishing action until the drop has been leveled. Your
fingernail will remove any paint build up around the outside of the chip.
5. Repeat steps 2-4 as necessary to fill the void, allowing a couple of
minutes between layers.
6. WAX!
-Glenn Racine
St. Louis BMW Club"<<
Scott Blazey
KC BMW Club
Subject: Re: paint touch-up
Sent: 2/19/96 4:33 PM
Received: 2/19/96 4:34 PM
From: PHILIP C ABRAMI, pabrami@alcor.concordia.ca
To: Rich Gay, rich_gay@fsti.com
On Mon, 19 Feb 1996, Rich Gay wrote:
> If I've already got a few chips that I've got paint on, but it is too
> heavy, is there a way to smooth it (sanding?) without screwing things up?
Yes. But be careful.Generally, to remove excess paint requires an
abrasive. You want to use the mildest abrasive and confine its use to
the smallest area Begin with a good quality paint cleaner (e.g., Zymol,
Mequiar's, 3M) and elbow grease applied strategically (e.g., a q-tip, a
tiny bit of cloth wrapped around a a small, hard, and thin object). If
that doesn't work, move up to polishing compound. If that doesn't work
try very fine grit (500-600) wet/dry sandpaper used wet. If that doesn't
work try rubbing compound or a heavier weight paper. Practice first in
an unseen spot (e.g., under a door, inside the spare wheel well, etc.)
. before you tackle--let me guess--that beautiful hood. Take your time and
relax. Its only a car. Did I mention be careful?
Good luck,
Phil
Subject: Re: touch up techniques
Sent: 2/19/96 5:34 PM
Received: 2/19/96 5:34 PM
From: Herman Chan, hermanc2@sirius.com
To: Rich Gay, rich_gay@fsti.com
> I'd like some advice on paint touch-up techniques.
> Problem is, no matter how much I try to get the excess paint off the
>small brush on the
> paint "stick", the pain has a tendency to glob up rather than fill-in nicely.
>
> So, am I stuck with this, or is there a trick to getting the touch-up
>pain to nicely
> fill-in the chip?
Rich,
Don't use the brush that comes inside the cap; it's always too big and
clumsy unless you have a really big area to touch up. Go to an art store
and buy a fine artist's brush, or get some paper (not wood) matches and cut
the end into a V shape with some scissors. The matches work surprising
well, as cutting them forms a very small but firm tip. This idea came from
a detailing and bodywork book (also a good idea). Also, use some tape to
mask off the chip. As with other types of paint, multiple thin coats are
better than one thick one. You'll notice that as the paint dries and
cures, it will shrink, so you'll need a few applications to bring the level
of the color coat up the the original paint before applying the clear coat.
> And is there any way to smooth down the small "glob"-like structures that
>I've got where
> there were chips? :) :)...
You'll need to sand them down with ultra fine sandpaper from an auto body
supply store. I have some 3M auto body wet sanding paper from 600 grit to
2000 grit. Start out with a coarse grit to remove the glob and work up to
the fine grit. Use VERY light pressure and keep water running over the
sanding area. Then use a polish to take out the final small scratches,
apply a glaze, then wax. Generally, you want to move from the coarsest
product to the finest one.
Look in the phone book under "Automobiles/Body work/paint and supplies" for
an auto body shop supply place. A good one will have all the materials
that body shops and detailers use.
The most important thing to remember is that if you don't feel comfortable
doing this, then leave it to a professional. Body work is hard to do right
and I wouldn't want to go experimenting on my new M3. There's nothing
worse than trying to fix something and then making it worse.
HTH,
Herman
Subject: Re: Paint touch-up technique
Sent: 2/19/96 6:05 PM
Received: 2/19/96 6:10 PM
From: KKelly6788@aol.com
To: Rich Gay, rich_gay@fsti.com
Rich:
E-Mail Larry Reynolds at Car Care Specialties in NJ. He is a nice guy and a
Roundel advertiser. Tell him I referred you and ask him to E-mail you his
"how to touch up chips" paper. His E-mail address is carcaresp@aol.com I
am in CA and have never met him, but he has given me great advice on
detailing.
Kevin Kelly
BMW CCA #50039
Subject: paint chips
Sent: 2/19/96 1:37 PM
Received: 2/20/96 9:18 AM
From: carnone@hogpa.ho.att.com
To: Rich Gay, rich_gay@fsti.com
It may be too late now since you filled them in, but in general, call
and get the catalog from the Eastwood Company. They are based in
Pennsylvannia, and have an 800 number. They are an auto restoration
and paint and finish specialty catalog. In the catalog, you will find
kits for refinishing. They usually include something to sand the area
down with (of course, don't over do it. It may not be necessary on some
chips), super small fine brushes to apply the paint with to prevent
the "globbing" problem, and then a bottle of clearcoat to "seal" the painted
area after it dries. If the chip is big and you are adventureous, they also
sell a kit with an atomizer that you load your paint color into a small glass
jar, pressurize it, and then are able to spray it onto the car. Of course,
you'd have to mask the surrounding area with tape, cloths etc and not go nuts
with the spray applicator (ie., its not like using Right Guard), but again
it reduces the "globbing" effect of application via brush, which as you seem
to have sadly learned, is almost completely useless. Get their catalog for next
time, its a good mailing list to be on...
carnone@hogpa.att.com
Subject: touch- up
Sent: 2/19/96 7:58 PM
Received: 2/20/96 9:18 AM
From: Mike Ottati, mottati@mailhost.hooked.net
To: Rich Gay, rich_gay@fsti.com
Rich,
First, I'd remove those globs with a mild rubbing compound or laquer
thinner. A way I like doing touch up work is with the torn end of a match
out of a book of matches. The cardboard like material soaks up the paint
pretty well, so you just dab a small amount in the area and apply several
coats, allowing some drying time in between, to build up the paint to match
the level of the adjacent areas. Another method is to get a very fine brush
at a hobby shop, instead of the match. If you really want it perfect, you
could then wet sand with 1500 - 2000 grit sandpaper and then use a mild
rubbing compound. In theory this should make it look perfect, in practice
it usually ends up just removing the touch up paint. Good luck!
Mike Ottati
95 325i alpine white
95 318i jet black
Subject: Paint touch up
Sent: 2/19/96 11:47 PM
Received: 2/20/96 9:18 AM
From: KLchmn@aol.com
To: Rich Gay, rich_gay@fsti.com
Rich,
As an owner of a two-month old '95 M3 (Avus Blue, grey leather) too, I feel
compelled to assist someone of obvious taste and style. :-)
>I'd like some advice on paint touch-up techniques.
I used to deal with aerospace painting applications all the time, so I'll put
in my limited knowledge.
>Problem is, no matter how much I try to get the excess paint off the
>small brush on the paint "stick", the pain has a tendency to glob up
>rather than fill-in nicely.
>So, am I stuck with this, or is there a trick to getting the touch-up
>paint to nicely fill-in the chip?
There is a saying the 90% of painting success is due to proper surface prep.
The surface to be painted need to be *clean*, not just washed. First, take
a small piece of sand paper (400 or 600 grit) and 'rough up' the chipped
area. You can glue the sandpaper to a pencil eraser to make this easier.
Then, remove the grit, etc. with a rubbing alcohol rinse (don't let it drip
everywhere, soak it up with a clean rag). The next step will ensure success,
but may not be required. Your local autobody supply store sells a surface
cleaning chemical that strips any waxes, grease, or oils off of a car prior
to repainting. Get a can of this stuff. Swab it on with a q-tip. Use a
clean q-tip each time. I suggest three cleanings.
Now try painting the chip. It'll still glob alittle (very viscous touchup
paint versus what was sprayed on) , but not nearly as much.
>And is there any way to smooth down the small "glob"-like structures that
>I've got where there were chips? :) :)
Take the really high spots off with the sandpaper trick. Then polishing
compound. Alot of polishing compound. I hate this part.
Kirk
95 M3
94 530i (manual)
89 CRX Si (for sale...)
Subject: Re: paint touch-up technique
Sent: 2/20/96 12:45 AM
Received: 2/20/96 9:18 AM
From: CarcareSp@aol.com
To: Rich Gay, rich_gay@fsti.com
Dear Rich:
I am enclosing the article I wrote on chip repair. If you would like a
complete product description/price list/car care tips package, please send me
your snail mail address.
The repair of a scratch and a chip are the same. The only problem with a
scratch is that it takes more time to be able to blend in the new paint.
| PAINT CHIP REPAIR
Items you need:
1. Touchup or color matched paint
2. Compatable primer - I like Wurth Rustop Primer
3. Oganic cleaner -Wurth Citrus Degreaser or P21S Total Auto Wash
4. Solvent - Rubbing Alcohol or Prepsol or Enamel Reducer
5. 3M Imperial Hand Glaze
5. Meguiar Finesse Sanding Block 2000 grit
6. 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper
7. Round undyed wooden toothpicks
8. Large lightweight cardboard boxes (large shoe box or bigger)
9. Several 100% cotton towels
10. Magnifying glass - this helps we with older eyes
11. New Pencils with unused erasers
12. Rubber glue
13. Several heavy clean plastic cups
14. Roll of quality paint masking tape
Realize that paint chip repair is a learned skill and should be practiced on
an area of the car that is not that visible. The hood and nose are two areas
that should be tackled last. Test all cleaners or solvents on the paint
prior to usage. I like to use the seam underneath the rocker panels. Apply
a little cleaner or solvent to a cloth and rub the seam. If you do not get
any color on the rag, then the cleaner/solvent should be safe for the paint.
If you do get color on the rag, then you may wish to consider another
solvent.
| CHIP REPAIR STEPS:
1. Twentyfour hours before you want to start, use the rubber glue to attach
small 600 grit sandpaper circles (the diameter of the eraser) onto several
new pencils. The eraser must be unused and flat on top.
2. Step #1:Wash the car with a quality car wash and dry thoroughly.
3. Paint chips come in two flavors. The worst case has exposed the bare
metal, while the less severe has left the original primer intact. Clean the
area throughly with the Wurth or P21S citrus cleaner. If there is rust on
the exposed metal, clean off with the pencil eraser. Use a toothpick to
gently probe the area and make sure that the edges of the chip are secure and
not waiting to fall off and destroy your work. Take a new pencil/sandpaper
tool, dip into clean water and put a few drops of water on the chip area.
*SLIGHTLY* rough up the chip and a small portion of the surounding paint.
Lightly turning the pencil will rough up an area the diameter of the eraser
and this should be more than enough. Keep the roughed up area as small as
possible, the object is to give the new paint approximately 1 mm of old paint
to "grab" around the perimeter of the chip and not dig scratches.
4. Move onto the next chip and repeat the above. Depending upon the amount
of time available, you may wish to tackle 10-20 chips at one time. Try to
stay within the area that may be covered by your box(es).
5. When finished sanding all your chips you are tackling at this time apply
a small amount of Alcohol or Prepsol or Enamel Reducer to a rag and wipe each
chip and surrounding area to remove any sanding dust and grease/oils. Use
additional solvent and new area of the rag for each chip. Allow to dry
(these are highly volatile and will evaporate quickly with no residue).
6. If the original primer is intact, and "pencil sanding" does not disturb
the primer, then skip the next step and go directly to painting (# 9)
7. Make sure that the chip and surrounding area is clean. If not, reclean
with the Prepsol, Alcohol or Enamel Reducer. Pour or spray a small amount of
primer into a clean plastic cup. Dip the point of a wooden toothpick into
the primer to get a thin coating on the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick. If
there is a blob on the end, gently scrape it back into the bottle. Place the
tip of the toothpick against the center of the chip and allow capillary
action to literally flow a *THIN* coat of the primer into the depression of
the chip. Move onto the next prepared chip. If you have finished priming all
your prepared chips before two hours are up, cover with a box, taped down
with masking tape and go have a beer. The key is to allow the first coat of
primer to dry at least two hours. Dispose of your cup and start with a fresh
cup and toothpick. Apply another thin coat of primer to each repair that
needs primer. Priming is completed when no metal is visible and the level of
the primer is *BELOW* the level of the surrounding paint. This is
important! Cover and allow to dry for two hours or until dry.
8. Take a new pencil sander and dip into water and add a few drops of water
to the repair area and gently sand the area to rough up the chip and a small
portion of the surounding paint. Lightly turning the pencil will rough up an
area the diameter of the eraser and this should be more than enough. Apply
a small amount of Alcohol or Prepsol or Enamel Reducer to a rag and wipe the
chip and surrounding area to remove any sanding dust and grease/oils. Allow
to dry. Repeat for all the chips that are on today's list of victims.
9. If you are using a touchup, shake the bottle thoroughly. If you are
using color matched paint, mix thoroughly and pour a small amount into a
clean plastic cup.
10. Dip the point of a new toothpick into the paint to get a thin coating on
the first 1-2 mm of the toothpick. If there is a blob on the end, gently
scrape it back into the bottle. Place the tip of the toothpick against the
center of the chip and allow capillary action to literally flow the paint
into the depression of the chip. Repeat for each chip. The key is not to
use too much paint. Do not redip the toothpick. Use only the amount that
will flow from one dip. Temptation to add more paint with each application
will be almost overwhelming. Fight it!
11. Cover with your paint box and allow to dry 2 hours and repeat 8-12
times till the depression is filled with paint and bulges slightly upward and
covers the roughed up area with a thin coating of paint. The first 2-3
coats may not completely hide the primer. This is fine because you have many
more coats to go. Fight that urge!
13. The paint application is completed when the new paint bulges slightly
upward (a fraction of a millimeter) and had covered the roughed up area with
a thin coat of new paint. Allow the paint to dry for at least a week.
14. The touchup paint has been applied to the surface and allowed to dry for
at least 1 week, and resembles a minute mound ( __o__ ) (this is exaggerated)
on the flat plane of the existing paint. The object is to remove the mound
and make the surface of the paint one continuous flat plane. The Finesse
Block offers the ability to gently remove only the high spot of the repair.
Unlike sandpaper or polish on a rag, the five usable sides of the block are
flat and act like a "wood plane" to remove only the elevated areas of the
repair. The 2000 grit will not leave scratches.
2. Soak the Finesse Block in clean water for 24 hours prior to use. Then
gently "plane" the high spot on the paint. I prefer to "plane" in one
direction (usually back to front - drawing the block towards me). If the
block dries out, re-wet and continue use. When the new and existing paints
are blended (smoothed to the flat plane) to your satisfaction, clean the area
with a quality car wash and then use a quality glaze to restore the high
gloss finish. I prefer 3M Imperial Hand Glaze. Don't use a machine on your
car, as it deserves to be caressed by hand. Use the machine on your SO.
3. When applying either a glaze or a wax, apply to your soft cotton cloth or
applicator pad (don't squirt the stuff on the car) and work in one direction
only. Don't go around in circles like dear of dad . Circles are many times
the cause of "swirl marks." A front-to-back, back-to-front motion (the way
the air flows over the car) will help minimize swirl marks or at least make
them less visible. Buff out with a soft cotton cloth. If it looks good, wax
with a quality hard wax and you are done.
4. Tip for applying wax. If you are using a quality carnuba based wax, try
applying it with your fingers instead of a pad or cloth. Hold your fingers
together and use your finger tips as an applicator pad. The tactile feedback
from your fingers will tell you when the wax has been worked into the paint.
If grit should lodge under your fingers, you will know immediately and not
grind it into the paint. A pad will not allow this tactile feedback and these
devil grits become sandpaper. A circular motion of the pad will make a 360
degree swirl mark. All marks on paint are most visible at a 90 degree viewing
angle. Thus the front to back marks are most visible from the sides, whereas
a circle stands out from any viewing angle.
The question was also asked if clear touchup should be used as a final coat
to repair chips on a clear coat paint. There are two view points to this
question.
1. The purist will say yes, the paint has a clear coat and thus, the repair
should also. The process is the same as previously described, except the
clear coat is substituted for the last 2-3 coats or paint.
2. The practical world says no. The touchup paint is different from the
original paint and is formulated only as a touchup paint. Once it is applied
it should, according to the manufacturer, match well enough to be all but
invisible. I have found this to be the case with the numerous repairs on the
many cars/colors, I have completed. If you are using the original paint as a
touchup (I have not done this with a clear coated car), then my understanding
is that you should use the clear as a topcoat. The color coat of some paints
will many times be relatively dull in appearance. These paints rely on the
clear coat to provide the "shine."
Try one chip in an area that is not that visible. If the process works, then
continue with the rest. If not try the clear coat top layer.
I hope that the above has added a little more food for thought on chips. (Or
chips as a thought of food.)
Larry Reynolds
Car Care Specialties, Inc.
Distributors of Quality Car Care Products
Post Office Box 535
Saddle Brook, NJ 07663-0535
Phone (201) 796-8300
Fax (201) 791-9743
E-mail carcaresp@aol.com
Old enough to remember when sex was safe and race cars were dangerous