Unofficialbmw.com

[dale]

see my pics at this link on how I recently did 4 rear bearings with about $40 in stuff from the hardware store, a $30 bearing seperator from harbor freight, and my handy vice:

hardware store stuff:
1 - monster 3/4" drive socket(2-3/16"), use to press bearing in, press stub into bearing (OD = 2-15/16")
1 - big 3/4" drive socket(1-7/8"), used to drive out old bearing (OD = 2-1/2")
1 - medium-big 3/4" drive socket(1-1/2") (OD = 2-1/16"), used to brace the back side of the bearing as the hub is pressed into place
1 - 12" long, 3/4" diameter threaded rod, and 4 nuts and several washers

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/suspension/e30-rear-wheel-bearings/

sockets with close-ups for diameters:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/suspension/e30-more-rear-wheel-bearings/

To get the old race out of the trailing arm, I used the 1-7/8" socket, from the back side, and a 3 pound hammer, it was out in less then 5 minutes, after the 1st one. Size is cruicial on this one as it has to be smaller then the trailing arm opening, and larger then the outer race's smallest point.

I'll try to get exact diameters of these socket's up here to help you with purchase of them locally. I paid too much for mine, I'm sure Harbor freight would sell them for $5 each or so.





Removing inner race, crude, but effective:



Parts diagram and other info courtesy of Ron Stygar.
Written for the E36, so not 100% applicable, but it is the same basic procedure.

















Dale

[Ken Juul]

If you change the bearings before they start making too much noise they come out pretty easily. Good side came out with a few good smacks, the side that was making noise took about a half hour of persuasion. When I did mine I used large washers instead of sockets. Had to file down the diameter a bit. Same basic plan, I just hate beating on tools.

[dale]

Ken,
I can relate to hating beating on tools, but I bought these monster sockets for this purpose only. I don't own a 3/4" drive, and unless I buy a big 1ton truck(again) I don't think I'll need these for anything but bearing work.

Interesting tidbit, the same rear wheel bearing is used in all E30, (rear disk brake, not M3)E36, 318ti, (6cyl) Z3, (early)E46, etc.
(but not 84 325e)

SKF K8000-40064 Wheel Bearing

For an '87 325i:
BMW calls this
"Angular Contact Ball Bearing, Radial"
part number # 33 41 1 130 617
dimensions 42x75x37

Price, around $50

[85-325e]

Dale... The trailing arms are out of the car. How much different would it have been removing and installing the bearings with the trailing arms still installed???

[MattB]

man. very nice.

So many people have been doing these bearings lately.
We're gonna have to have a contest.

I'll be the guy with the stopwatch, cause i'm not going to compete.

thanks for taking the time to document and take pics Dale.

[dale]

quote

Quote:

How much different would it have been removing and installing the bearings with the trailing arms still installed???

It would have been easier to do the bearing job with the trailing arm in place, cause with it sitting on the floor, you have to brace it with your foot to keep the force from sliding the trailing arm around the garage floor.

I had both subframes out installing racing solid bushings, and trailing arm adjustment tabs, and cleaning and painting, etc.

With a little practice, and the right tools, these things go fairly quickly.

(I'm still using a torch on the subframe bushings though, just prefer the subframe to be out of the car when I do it. )

Dale

[jamesnau]

Folks,

In my recent wheel bearing change, I bought several USS hardened washers in every size from 5/8 in. up to 1 in. Note that the washer sizes correspond to the bolt size they are intended to be used for...for example, the outside diameter of a 1 in. washer is over 2 in! These washers are thick, hard, and gave me enough choices of sizes to get the bearings out and in without beating on them. I also used a 5/8 in threaded rod, cheap thrust bearings, and a 3-in. galvanized pipe nipple to complete my wheel bearing press tool.

I did have to drive the hub out of the bearing from behind with a 3/4 in. brass pipe coupling attached to a 8 in long 3/4 galvanized pipe nipple.

All of the parts were obtained from Home Depot and/or Lowes except for the 3 in. pipe nipple and the thrust bearings...had to go to specific companies for the large nipple and the thrust bearings.

I think the total investment in my wheel bearing tool is about $40. The 3 in. pipe nipple was $10, and the two thrust bearings were $6 each. The washers, threaded rod, nuts, and plumbing parts were inexpensive. I had about as much fun designing and thinking through how to make the tool as I had in actually doing the job.

Regards,
Jim Nau
'85 325e 167k now with new rear wheel bearings but still roaring!

[Chris325]

I did a rear wheel bearing last summer and had an assortment of threaded rod/washers/pipe/plates on hand. They were no help removing the axle/hub/bearing and I ended up just pounding them out.

Reinstalling everything was easy with the homemade "tools" and I got a lot of satisfaction out of figuring out how do to it without the $250 "BMW Special Tool".

[Marcus Spiker]

What size thrust bearings? I need to build this tool in short order. Any advise would help. Great procedure.

Thanks,

Marcus Spiker

[dale]

1 - monster 3/4" drive socket(2-3/16"), use to press bearing in, press stub into bearing (OD = 2-15/16")
1 - big 3/4" drive socket(1-7/8"), used to drive out old bearing (OD = 2-1/2")
1 - medium-big 3/4" drive socket(1-1/2") (OD = 2-1/16"), used to brace the back side of the bearing as the hub is pressed into place
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dale@unofficialbmw.com
sold in 2016
87 325 5spd eta

[dale]

Added some info to the first post in this
_________________
http://www.unofficialbmw.com
UnofficialBMW.com Webmaster
dale@unofficialbmw.com
sold in 2016
87 325 5spd eta