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dale
Joined: 22 Aug 1999 Posts: 3087 Location: Seattle, WA USA
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dale
Joined: 22 Aug 1999 Posts: 3087 Location: Seattle, WA USA
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 1:44 pm Post subject: |
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For an E30, use a 1996 Z3 1.9l shift lever for a 30% reduction, a good compromise.
General article on installing short shifters with part numbers for various options:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_replace_a_shift_lever.html
Here is a pic of the lever for an Z3 1.9l lever to use in an E30,
the price is from 1998 so surely higher now ... just checked, $64 at Pelican as of 04/2008:
Parts list:
For a 1990 325i http://bmwfans.info/original/E30/2-T/325i-M20/USA/L/M/1991/01/mg-25/ill-25_0027/
1x shift joint 25-11-7-503-525 (check your cars year to find correct part number to insure the proper fit)
1x pad for shift joint 25-11-1-434-194
4x plastic washers 25-11-1-220-439
1x shift lever 25-11-1-434-148
1x bearing 25-11-1-220-600
There is another rubber bushing you can replace if you like, but I consider it optional:
1x bushing for upper mount 25-11-7-519-669
Replace spacers ring(plastic washers)
Page with many links showing different options, written for an E36, but all applies to E30 except the specific new shift lever to use:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_short_shifter_images.html
Installing an MCoupe shift lever in an E36 sedan requires an extra bend, I haven't needed to do this with the Z3 1.9l shift lever in an E30, but some may want the position of the lever slightly different, this is a way to do that
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_rons_short_shifter_install_extra_bend.html
Note on installing the washers on all the shift linkage:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_short_shift_mod_tip3.html
1984-early 86 style, console mount, reference this page if you have this style:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/drivetrain/short_shifter/
1986-1991 Style: (also as used in E36, Z3, E46, etc)
From below the car, looks like this:
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dale@unofficialbmw.com
sold in 2016
87 325 5spd eta |
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rj7hills
Joined: 29 Jan 2004 Posts: 573 Location: Rome, GA
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 5:29 am Post subject: |
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In case you are thinking about trying...I have used the shorter shifter from the M coupe in an e30 without adding the extra bend. it makes for a very short, crisp shift. BUT the shift lever will hit the driver's side of the shifter hole/boot when you put the car in reverse. It takes about a dozen shifts to tear the boot
I let some others drive the car with mixed reviews. A couple of experienced BMW drivers didn't like the super short throws and found it difficult to get through the gears easily. It took a smooth, deliberate shift to make it quickly.
just my .02 |
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cmcon98
Joined: 13 Nov 2002 Posts: 1844 Location: Boston
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 9:21 am Post subject: |
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The Z3 1.9 lever is about $60 from Bav Auto. The rubber bushing in the aluminum shifter bracket is really squishy and allows a lot of movement. I got Delrin (a sort of semi-hard nylon-like plastic) bushings for it. Anything that's worn and allows the shifter bracket to move or allows play in the selector rod should be replaced, as looseness is multiplied by the length of the shift lever. I.e., a tiny amount of play between the selector rod and the shift coupling = a lot of slop at the shift knob. _________________ Cirrusblau '88 325iC 5-speed
Cosmosschwartz '99 M3 'vert 5-speed |
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peerless
Joined: 12 Nov 2003 Posts: 1721 Location: Orange County, Ca
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 12:37 pm Post subject: |
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Dale, very good article with lots of detail on 'How To'. Very valuable.
I have done quite a few of these upgrades for my customers. I personally use the E36 M3 shifter for all my upgrades. Every one of my customers comes back with a smile.
I originally used a Z4 3.0L shifter which gives the shortest throw. But it also made shifting very difficult and put the selector rod at a very steep angle which will wear out your selector shaft seal and also can cause missed shifts in 2nd gear.
One other thing that is rarely mentioned when talking about the short shift options is the fact that in most cases the selector rod will hit the vibration dampener on end of the tailshaft if the car is so equipped. It is important to remove this piece and toss it in the trash. This can be removed when you are replacing the rear selector seal and shift knuckle. Remove the main nut from the rear of the tailshaft and knock out the 3 studs holding it on. Replace with 10mmX55mm bolts with new nuts. I replace all 6 bolts and nuts.
Also on early sheet metal shift plate consoles, using a block of poly urethane for the rear plate mount will stiffen up the shifter feel and prevent the shifter from pulling the plate over. If your using the newer 'dog bone' style shift console you can obtain poly mounts from AKG Motor Sports for $15.
Have Fun! _________________ Robert
E30 Repair and Maintenance Services
714-398-8405 |
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menuhin
Joined: 09 Dec 2007 Posts: 163 Location: Pittsburgh, PA, USA
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Posted: Thu Apr 10, 2008 6:30 pm Post subject: |
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cmcon98 wrote: | ...The rubber bushing in the aluminum shifter bracket is really squishy and allows a lot of movement. I got Delrin (a sort of semi-hard nylon-like plastic) bushings for it... |
cmcon98, can you tell us more about the rubber bushing that you are referring to? (e.g. the part number as stated by dale)
And also, where can we get those Delrin bushings that you use?
Everyone said that the play in the selector rod of my car is way too much, and I should refresh my shifter bushings when I change the guibo and transmission seals _________________ My E30 101 finished: Red 1986 325es (103K miles only)
- completed: tbelt, h2o pump, rust holes, tie rods, ca & m3 cab, sports s&s, backup light, tranny seals, 3.25 LSD, short shifter
FAREWELL my 325es! |
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dale
Joined: 22 Aug 1999 Posts: 3087 Location: Seattle, WA USA
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