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got hit from behind
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m78



Joined: 14 Nov 2001
Posts: 2807
Location: In the great midwest

PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 9:05 pm    Post subject: got hit from behind Reply with quote

and my trunk is jammed shut

any way to either get the trunk open or get through the backseat?

If a shop had to get the trunk open, how would they do it? cut into it?

.
.
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Lachssilber Metallic 203 1988 325i sedan with 200,xxx miles

Top Speed 220 km/h

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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
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Location: Southampton, NY

PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 10:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry you're going through this...

Well, all E30s have a cutout panel for the ski bag behind where the armrest would be. If you remove the seat bottom (pull up from the front as it's held in with springt clips), and then remove the seat back by undoing the two bolts at the two bottom corners of the seat on the little arms that stick down, then lift up and remove carefully.

Behind that seat, in the middle, you'll see the knockout panel. You can remove that and if you're small, you can get in there, but remember, it's a small trunk. Make sure there's someone with you to help youout if you get stuck, and make sure your flashlight batteries are new!

You could undo the latch from the top, leaving the latch and the bottom of the latch together.

That really sucks...
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m78



Joined: 14 Nov 2001
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Location: In the great midwest

PostPosted: Fri Jun 15, 2012 11:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks man.

I am completely depressed by this. The guy's vehicle had nary a scratch.

the trunk is toast. the bumper trim is toast. one tailight broken and worst of all.....

The oil pan is cracked. the bump pushed the engine up slightly, just enough to crack the oil pan.

Who knows what other gems they'll find once it's looked at.

I've put in a claim to my insurance. Is it better to claim through the other driver's insurance? even if his insurance has very very bad ratings?

.

.
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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
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Location: Southampton, NY

PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 12:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The oil pan is a bitch... Perhaps Dale may be able to lead you to one that's reasonable, but maybe not. I would PM or email him and tell him... see if he has some suggestions. If there's anyone up here that REALLY knows these cars, it's Dale...

I haven't had an insurance claim on my 325e since 1991! Don't have a clue...

Post some pictures if you can too... that might bring out sugegstions from a bunch of people.

Sorry you're going through this... you work so hard on that car. Gotta ask... what type of car hit you, and was it a man or a woman that ran into you? Were you stopped at a light or a sign?
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tncean



Joined: 26 Feb 2005
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Location: Chattanooga, Tn.

PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 4:52 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I ain't no lawyer, but; #1, get a copy of the accident report, and make extra copies. #2, if other party at fault, (and no one hurt), first give them a chance to pay for damages without making a claim on their insurance. Never hurts to ask. Rarely works, however.

#3, Yes, do notify your insurance company. Most will require you to pay the deductable, IF they allow a claim. Big IF. DO ask your insurance carrier for advice!!

#4, Insur co's will first offer the current "book value" of vehicle, IF repairs are more than "book value". On these e30's, probably in the low 2k range.

About the only way to fight the valuation is through documentation, and that means RECEIPTS that show the vehicle has been thoroughly restored and maintained. Dated photos are good, too.

I've mentioned this before; every couple of years, a good practice is to pay a car dealer to give you a NOTARIZED statement stating what they would estimate to be the retail value. A notarized statement is a legal document, and carries a helluva' lot of impact on the valuation.

This is going to be a slow process. I do hope you have rental car coverage, if your only vehicle. Rental cars are only covered for so many days, so be alert to that.
Sometimes, if repairs are more than value of vehicle, you can "buy" the vehicle "back" from the insurance co with a Salvage Title, usually for a few hundred$. Check with your local insurance co on this. Some co's won't give collision insur on a salvage title, some will.

ANYTIME you call or talk to the other party's insurance co, write down time and date. ANY sent documents should be done only with REGISTERED mail or fax receipts. Get you a file folder, keep everything together.

Sorry about your bad luck. Know you put a lot into your car.

tncean


Last edited by tncean on Sat Jun 16, 2012 5:08 am; edited 1 time in total
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tncean



Joined: 26 Feb 2005
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Location: Chattanooga, Tn.

PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 5:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

If oil pan cracked, wouldn't be surprised that motor mounts, and even tranny mounts, are busted. As you said, no telling what all got damaged.
Sounds like something heavy and moving got you. Good luck..
t
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m78



Joined: 14 Nov 2001
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Location: In the great midwest

PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 8:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

85-325e wrote:
Sorry you're going through this...

Well, all E30s have a cutout panel for the ski bag behind where the armrest would be. If you remove the seat bottom (pull up from the front as it's held in with springt clips), and then remove the seat back by undoing the two bolts at the two bottom corners of the seat on the little arms that stick down, then lift up and remove carefully.

Behind that seat, in the middle, you'll see the knockout panel. You can remove that and if you're small, you can get in there, but remember, it's a small trunk. Make sure there's someone with you to help youout if you get stuck, and make sure your flashlight batteries are new!

You could undo the latch from the top, leaving the latch and the bottom of the latch together.

That really sucks...


is the fiberboard panel at the back of the trunk, actually the back of the back seat?

.

.
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Top Speed 220 km/h

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m78



Joined: 14 Nov 2001
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Location: In the great midwest

PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 9:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

After removing the seat bottom and the armrest, and removing rear seat back, I discover there is no opening to the trunk.

it is a solid piece of steel that has no opening.

I guess they altered the manufacture of these God forsaken cars to torture me.

oy vey

,

.
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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
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Location: Southampton, NY

PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 10:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

No, that panel is in the sheet metal... you have to knock it out. I believe every E30 has it.

Check for a rectangular panel, dead center of the metal behind the seat back. It has rounded corners. FYI, the fiberboard has no cutout. You'll have to push that in.

FYI, if one of the taillights is screwed, you COULD remove it and access the lock from there.
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m78



Joined: 14 Nov 2001
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Location: In the great midwest

PostPosted: Sat Jun 16, 2012 12:18 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

it appears to be simply a solid piece of steel. no knockout plate exists.

I would have to cut through it.

my specific vehicle did not come with the ski bag, though I have a friend who owned an earlier model, and I frankly did not know what he was talking about when he mentioned ski bag.

That's not a bad thought, though going through the tail light opening.

How do I get the trunk latch unlatched once I have the tail light out?


.

.
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Top Speed 220 km/h

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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
Posts: 4711
Location: Southampton, NY

PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 12:58 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll take a picture tomorrow of what to look for.. it's there... all E30s had it, especially in our year range. It's not something that's totally obvious, and it's not made to just fall out... you have to hit it out. I'll post a shot tomorrow.

Now, if you were to reach through the taillight section, you might just be able to reach the latch.

M, it would REALLY help if you posted a few pics of the trunk and damage. You're asking questions that require complex answers depending upon what happened to the car.

If you don't have any way to post a picture, PM me and we'll try to work something out, or you could just email me the pictures directly. But without seeing this, it's just a shot in the dark. For example, if the latch is mangled, it's going to be much tougher to get to it.

PICTURES... gotta have them.
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m78



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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:20 am    Post subject: Reply with quote




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Top Speed 220 km/h

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m78



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PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote








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Top Speed 220 km/h

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m78



Joined: 14 Nov 2001
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Location: In the great midwest

PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:51 am    Post subject: Reply with quote


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Top Speed 220 km/h

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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
Posts: 4711
Location: Southampton, NY

PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

M... There it is... You took good pictures of the panel...

The "dots" are the only places there that panel is attached. If you whack that panel by the dots, they'll break and that panel will come out. Unfortunately, in my case, I hit the panel from inside of the trunk to the passenger compartment. But I think it'll work either way.

Each of the "dots" shows where the panel is attached. There are 16 points... The rest is all laser cut and NOT attached... break the spots where the dots are and the panel falls out...

Here's my panel (I kept it after I removed it 6 years ago):







You can see the breakpoints... they're where the dots are in your pics...

Now, I will say that it's a VERY small panel... unless you're very small too, you won't fit through, and it's quite a reach from the seat back panel to the end of the trunk.

If you can get your arm in through where the taillight is, you MAY be able to undo the two bolts that hold the trunk-lid side of the latch and just pop it open. Look at this page from RealOEM.com... 14 is the trunk lid latch, and 13 is one of two bolts that holds it up to the lid:

http://realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=1254&mospid=47308&btnr=41_0787&hg=41&fg=60

You MAY also be able to undo the two bolts that hold the whole lock mechanism (11) in and then the lid would go up with the whole lock thing attached. The only problem with this is that there's also the central locking actuator attached.

Personally, I think if you can get the two bolts off the lid side of the latch, it'll open.

You also MAY be able to get to the trunk hinges from the ski bag opening, but then you'll be dealing with the spring thing that keeps the trunk lid open.
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Last edited by 85-325e on Sun Jun 17, 2012 12:18 pm; edited 2 times in total
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