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Running Rough - Then OK
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cjhsa



Joined: 10 Jun 2004
Posts: 325
Location: West Michigan

PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 1:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

idanity wrote:
stomp test ?


I read that term here recently. Not familiar. Enlighten me please.
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cjhsa



Joined: 10 Jun 2004
Posts: 325
Location: West Michigan

PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 1:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

m78 wrote:
is this the part you're talking about?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/BMW-e28-e30-Idle-air-rpm-Control-Valve-air-bypass-OEM-/230759319305?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ABMW%7CYear%3A1984&hash=item35ba53c709&vxp=mtr#ht_634wt_1141

.

.And if so, have you taken it off and cleaned it thoroughly inside the valve?

.
.


Yes that's it and no, I haven't.
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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
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Location: Southampton, NY

PostPosted: Wed May 30, 2012 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CJ... our 325e's don't have the stomp test capability... only "i" cars...
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cjhsa



Joined: 10 Jun 2004
Posts: 325
Location: West Michigan

PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 6:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

An update.

Yesterday I filled up with tier 1 gas (BP), dropped in a couple ounces of Lucas fuel additive, and added a quart of oil. I rechecked all the vacuum hoses last night and found one that was suspect, not sure, but taped it up to see if there was any noticeable difference.

I did take a close look at that RPM air bypass valve. Getting that thing off looks like a real bear. The bracket that holds it is mounted to the header UNDERNEATH another bracket that in turn holds about forty things - ARGH.

So, today on my way to work the car is running beautifully, smooth as glass, quiet. But when I get off the freeway, the thing is idling at 900-1000RPM. When I got to work I rechecked all the hoses and connections and even the dipstick. All looks good. So I got out the screwdriver and adjusted the RPM's down to about 700 - smooth and without any sine wave.

Now I just hope it doesn't quit at the first stop sign when it's warming up on the way home.

But thanks everyone - I'm pretty sure it is that bypass valve that is the culprit, at least things seem to point at it. I'll have to get my neighbor kid/wrench to have a look at it.

Question: Based on that diagram the ICV should be where my bypass valve is. Is it perhaps a different setup because my car was so early in the e30 coupe production for the US? My car was built in May of 1984.
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Last edited by cjhsa on Thu May 31, 2012 7:45 am; edited 1 time in total
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cjhsa



Joined: 10 Jun 2004
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Location: West Michigan

PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 7:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Though mine is still working, just in case I break it trying to remove/clean/install, I looked around and Bavauto.com has one of the best prices for the idle bypass valve at $180. Part number: 13 41 1 707 395
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m78



Joined: 14 Nov 2001
Posts: 2807
Location: In the great midwest

PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

well it sounds like you made some progress.

yes, I believe you're correct. The E30 evolved in some of the parts that essentially perform the same function. Not the least of which is removing, redesigning or perhaps relocating the idle adjustment screw. Many of the changes and upgrades had to do with the development of the motronic ECU. Also you have a "e" model which is lower reving and more fuel efficient. Which probably explains the slight difference in the design of the ICV.

The ICV looks like it's held on tight in several places, but it's actually surprising how easy it is to remove.

I think Enis has the same model as yours or close to it, and he is able to clean the ICV on his car.

Enis, perhaps you could enlighten on removing the ICV?

Removal is the best and surest way to facilitate a complete cleaning.

.

.
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Last edited by m78 on Thu May 31, 2012 7:47 am; edited 3 times in total
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m78



Joined: 14 Nov 2001
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Location: In the great midwest

PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 7:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cjhsa wrote:
Though mine is still working, just in case I break it trying to remove/clean/install, I looked around and Bavauto.com has one of the best prices for the idle bypass valve at $180. Part number: 13 41 1 707 395


If you are a member of the BMW CCA, you may be able to get a discount for parts at local BMW dealers. I go to the local dealer myself and surprisingly find many parts are the cheapest at the dealer.

.

.
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cjhsa



Joined: 10 Jun 2004
Posts: 325
Location: West Michigan

PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

m78 wrote:
cjhsa wrote:
Though mine is still working, just in case I break it trying to remove/clean/install, I looked around and Bavauto.com has one of the best prices for the idle bypass valve at $180. Part number: 13 41 1 707 395


If you are a member of the BMW CCA, you may be able to get a discount for parts at local BMW dealers. I go to the local dealer myself and surprisingly find many parts are the cheapest at the dealer.

.

.


I am not but will consider joining. I do still get the BMW produced magazine every so often. Not even sure how they know where I live! Very Happy
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m78



Joined: 14 Nov 2001
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Location: In the great midwest

PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 8:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

cjhsa wrote:




I am not but will consider joining. I do still get the BMW produced magazine every so often. Not even sure how they know where I live! Very Happy


You may call some of the local dealers just to make sure they offer the discount and at what percentage. Some of them do and some don't. And it seems they sometimes offer different percentages.

I found that making a personal contact at the dealer can go a long ways to getting some extra perks. Many of the parts guys are BMW owners and in many cases may own E30's. And they realize the markup on parts is sometimes astronomical.

As an example, I am picking up some parts tomorrow from the local dealer that are about 27% cheaper than any online source I could find, including ebay. Pretty surprising.

.
.
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idanity



Joined: 21 May 2005
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Location: N.W.U.S.A.

PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 11:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

wow, that part is spendy...more then most.

i suggest a local craigslist car parting out...or on a forum request..try them all, requesting a part is many times the easiest way to 'good' used parts...albeit you pay shipping..but the e30 comunity is one of the strongest.

also, pm robert1700....he has a lot of connections, and quite resourceful...if anyone can find that part for pennies on the dollar, he can.
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cjhsa



Joined: 10 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: Thu May 31, 2012 12:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll keep that under my hat. Right now the car is running like a million bucks. Wish it looked as good (twilight is its friend).
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idanity



Joined: 21 May 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 3:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

happy to hear.
Smile
guess it just needed a little attention, remember, maintenance is fun,
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haber



Joined: 14 Jun 2002
Posts: 1663
Location: Tennessee

PostPosted: Fri Jun 01, 2012 1:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If you are adjusting the bypass screw on the Idle Air Valve to set your idle speed then the system is NOT functioning properly. It should compensate for your adjustments and mostly bring the idle speed back to where it belongs if it's working. The idle is NOT adjustable on these cars. Doesn't matter if it's a 3 wire or 2 wire there is no adjustment. Older e cars have the 2 wire with screw I think your are describing.

Have you tried simply unplugging your ICV and does anything happen then? It ought to rev up to about 1500 rpm where the computer then cuts fuel and fall back down again to repeat the cycle. If not then your whole idle system is not working. Any of either the TPS, ICM or ICV is bad. Maybe someone has simply altered the loop to get it to run OK. Pretty common to put some kind of imiting orrifice in the hose. But it will not be right under a variety of other situations.

Three components have to work. The TPS (Throttle Position Switch) which signals the ICM (Idle Control Module) to control which then opens and closes the ICV (Idle Control Valve) to maintain proper idle speed. You are supposed to set the current range through a 2 wire ICV to something like 475 milliamps when the engine is warm and the idle control is on and A/C off. This puts the ICV in the proper range for the variety of situations like warm up and A/C engaged. If it's not all working your idle cannot be properly controlled under the variety of situations.
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cjhsa



Joined: 10 Jun 2004
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 7:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It would not surprise me if there was some mod made to it to get it to pass CA emissions. I live in Michigan now which is only semi-socialist and at least we have no emissions testing, which IMO is a form of legalized theft.

Yesterday I drove home from work, 37 miles, and stopped at a store for 20 minutes. When I drove away in 1st gear, the car hopped on me, like it was stalling. I clutched and pulled over, it would NOT respond to the throttle at all. Let it come to idle, it amazingly didn't quit, then revved it and it was fine again. Car has never left me stranded, knock on wood.

Note: It was raining yesterday.
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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 02, 2012 10:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't know if this could be affecting your problem, but Haber mentioned the TPS, or throttle position sensor. This is underneath the throttle, and they tend to fill with oil, mostly from the big hose coming from the AFM, and the breather from the valve cover. Some people have drilled a small hole in the housing to let the oil weep out.
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