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OBD2 P0135, P0170

 
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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
Posts: 3087
Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 12:20 pm    Post subject: OBD2 P0135, P0170 Reply with quote

Hey Guys,
I'm working on getting a '96 318ti back on the road. Right now it fails AZ emissions test due to OBD2 error P0135.
P0135 says the front O2 sensor heater is failing. OK, I put in a Bosch universal sensor, kept the original electrical connector.
Still get the same error.

Has anyone else seen this issue? I've ordered the direct replacement Bosch O2 sensor, part #13559 from Amazon for $78.60.
The universal Bosch #15730 was only $40ish.

There are several pages out there with lots of P0135 info, but I've made all these checks, +12V at the O2 sensor white heater wire.
Monitoring the live OBD2 data shows the O2 output voltage is in the 0V-1V range when the engine is warm.

One thing I didn't check was for a good ground through the other white wire to the O2 sensor, the heater needs that for it's ground. I'll check that when I have the car up in the air next.

P0135 references:
http://www.obd-codes.com/p0135
http://www.bba-reman.com/content.aspx?content=NEXT_DTC_P0135
http://repairpal.com/OBD-II-Code-P0135-and-P0155

Bosch #13559 front O2 sensor $78.60




Bosch #13475 rear O2 sensor $71.56


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Last edited by dale on Thu Jan 06, 2011 2:02 am; edited 5 times in total
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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
Posts: 3087
Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Fri Dec 17, 2010 12:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just noticed the universal I installed had the #15xxx numbering, and the exact application had a #13xxx number.
I wonder if a less expensive, but different application, O2 sensor would work, like this
#13007 for $43 (original application, 2000 Honda Civic DX)
http://www.amazon.com//dp/B000BZG5OO/

Has anyone replaced an OBD2 O2 sensor with a universal type or other less expensive option then the factory specified unit?
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Greg Mierz



Joined: 09 Sep 2009
Posts: 9
Location: West Seattle, Wash USA

PostPosted: Tue Dec 21, 2010 11:28 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dale,
I did a universal once and it worked ok. Did you check the ground? Did you undo the battery also to clear the code? Hope this works for you.
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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
Posts: 3087
Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 2:30 pm    Post subject: now P1174, M44 CVV Reply with quote

Hey Greg,
I've got the P0130 andd P0135 codes fixed by removing the incorrect universal and installing the direct application Bosch sensor from Amazon.
Some good into on O2 sensors and OBD2:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/o2sensor.htm
http://www.aa1car.com/obd2help/
http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/mult-OBDII/mult-ODBII.htm

Now I'm getting P1174 (bmw specific, fuel trim) which basically means vacuum leak.
Found this good post on the subject:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=19159

What I also found, no surprise to you M44 owners out there, is the CVV is bad (CVV=crankcase vent valve, modern equiv of PCV valve).
This CVV has a small extra hole on the top, and when it stops working correctly it allows unmetered, unfiltered air into the intake, which throws off the mixture.
BMW Part # 11 15 7 501 567
http://bmwfans.info/parts/catalog/E36/Compact/USA/318ti-M44/LHD/A/1996/june/browse/engine/cylinder_head_cover/
#16 in this image
http://static.bmwfans.info/images/epc/OTkxX3A=.png
If you mess up one of the allen bolts when you're replacing this, it takes an M6X20 cap screw, like this one:
http://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1541

It's a good idea to change the hose while you have this apart, I used a hose I found at the local Autozone, I think it was 19/32's. The 5/8" was slightly too large. Buy 18" of length and cut to fit.
Something like this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Thermoid-Crankcase-Ventilation-Operating-Temp/dp/B00067RIKM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1293136905&sr=1-4
B00067RIKM

More CVV info here and pics at the bottom:
http://www.motortraders.net/groups/group.asp?group=1&menu=88


CVV at Amazon:

M44 CVV, looks like BMW OE part



Pics of the M44 CVV part





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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
Posts: 3087
Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Thu Dec 23, 2010 4:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

As for code clearing, I'm using my Peake tool, and also a very very nice AutoXray 6000 OBD2 scanning tool which allows me watch real time data, and the progress of the self tests.
When you clear codes on OBD2, you also reset the readiness test results, then you have to drive the car a while to allow the self test to complete.
For this 318ti, there are 7 self tests, 3 complete right away.
Next one to complete is the O2 heater test, takes less then an hour of driving, or X driving cycles.
Next one is O2 signal, not sure how long that takes.
The last 2, Evap self test, and catalytic converter efficiency, take longer to complete.
More info:
http://www.aa1car.com/library/ic10224.htm

In Arizona, Maricopa County(Phoenix Metro), if the car was built from 1996-2000, you are allowed 2 incomplete tests.
If built 2001-2006, allowed 1 incomplete test,
newer then 2006 and you don't need testing.

Here is a pic of the scan tool I'm using, a friend used to work for the company and had one he could loan me.

AutoXray 6000 EZ Scan Scanner



There is also OBD2 software out there that has been customized for BMWs to support decoding the BMW specific codes, this one is software for your laptop with a cable to connect to your OBD2 port:

AutoEnginuity BMW ScanTool at Pelican Parts
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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
Posts: 3087
Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Tue Jan 04, 2011 10:28 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Installed the new CVV last night and no more P0170/P1174 Fuel Trim errors.
Watching the real time OBD2 data, I'm seeing the short/long fuel trims staying in the +/- 3% range.
Previously it was getting up to the 20%-25% range.

Now I'm getting a cam position sensor error, I'll replace that tomorrow and hopefully that will clear up that error.
Only real symptom of something wrong, is sometimes hard to start, and rough idle when coming to a stop after freeway driving.

Around $55 ordered online.
Part number 12141743072, M44 cam position sensor

The old 318ti is getting 34mpg cruising down the freeway at 60mph, so it's mostly running right.

A couple of posts about the cam position sensor:
http://www.318ti.org/forum/showthread.php?t=20612

And you may need 2 new gaskets since you have to pull the top part of the intake manifold.
Part 11611247478, intake manifold gasket
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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
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Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 2:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Replaced the cam position sensor tonight with one sold by a place local here to Phoenix, so I could get it next day for cheap.
Went through the trouble of pulling the upper part of the intake manifold, removing the old sensor, installing the new sensor, installing the upper intake manifold.

Go to start the car, it fires and stalls, crank, fires stalls.
Keep holding the key in the crank position and it barely stays running.
Now it will kinda-sorta idle, but dies as soon as you touch the gas.
Looked over everything closely, sprayed some starter fluid on there to find vacuum leaks, nothing.
Tried to pull codes from the computer, and the car's DME is totally flaking out. Either the DME has decided to randomly die right when I changed a part, or the new part was bad. and ....
Figured the only part replaced was the cam sensor, that must be it.

So, pulled the upper intake again, this time a much faster way, had it done in under 15 minutes, which I wouldn't have believed before I started this.
Short description is, disconnect nothing, pull 2x 11mm nuts and 1 bolt, loosen the 2x 11mm bolts holding the intake front and rear, remove the 13mm bolt from the lower mount by the alternator, and lift the whole thing up by 4 inches. Now you have plenty of room to get your hand in there to disconnect, reconnect the cam position sensor connection.

Dale
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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
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Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Thu Jan 06, 2011 2:15 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Before I swapped the cam position sensor out, then back in again today ...

I went to AZ emissions with 6 of the 7 OBD2 readiness tests complete. Only the cat converter test remaining.
Also had the P0340 code as a "pending" code, not a "trouble" code.

They ran the test, I paid my $27, the CAR PASSED!!
I wasn't sure at all if it would pass with this pending code for the cam sensor, but it did no trouble at all.

And, this evening after removing/reinstalling the stock, original cam sensor, I've driven it a few times, and still no new error.
Looks like this one solved itself.

Dale
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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 25, 2011 12:33 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought I'd post a follow up to this. Car has been running fine, at 198k on the _original_ radiator, it had a regular leak, so replaced it.
Installed new hood/hatch support struts. Installed new BMW cam sensor.

Now the P1174 (manuf. specific air/fuel mixture issue) keeps showing up.

Checked under the hood some more, the large 1-inch-ish line running to the boot between the Mass Airflow and the Throttle Body, had a big crack, I had trimmed the end and reinstalled.
But, since the line was 15 years old with 198k miles on it, surprise, it cracked again.
Put in a temp fix of spare hose from the garage, have the $5 factory part on order, should have it next week.
No more check engine light and it idles a lot better.

I'll let you know if that P1174 comes back or not.

Here is a diagram of the hoses, 17 in mine was cracked.
Wonder how long before the others under there are cracked


hose by the #3 in this picture, cracked on the right hand side end of the hose



Dale
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Drum



Joined: 06 Jul 2011
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 5:57 pm    Post subject: P0135 Error Code Reply with quote

Hey Everyone!

This Forum was great. I recently had an error code P0135 on my 01' 330Ci. I read this forum and became educated on how to diagnose and easily repair the problem in my own garage.

I went to auto zone and bought the reader/reset check engine light device for $49.99 on sale. It plugs into the car's computer directly under the dash and just above the interior hood release lever.

After confirming the error code, I went to Auto Zone where I bought the 02 sensor for $71.99. They allowed me to rent a special socket tool ($25.00) to make it easier to remove the old sensor from the exhaust manifold. The device was frozen and wouldn't move. I used a "break free" type of spray around the outside area and let it soak for five minutes. The old one came out and the new sensor is in. All this for just under $150.00. The dealer told me their labor alone would be $145.00 per hour plus their sensor would be more expensive than what I paid at Auto Zone.

Thank you guys for posting your information. It sure helped!!
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