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stubborn lower control arm 2000 328i

 
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patrickf



Joined: 15 Mar 2009
Posts: 4
Location: Rochester, New York

PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 3:26 am    Post subject: stubborn lower control arm 2000 328i Reply with quote

I am replacing the lower control arms on my 2000 328i. All went well on the driver's side but I can't remove the lower ball joint on the right side (outer, connected to wheel). I have a ball joint separator locked on to the point where it is beginning to bend the bolt. Looking for hints, tricks, suggestions. I have squirted PB Blaster to no effect.

I was thinking of removing the ball joint separator and using a pickle fork instead. But I'm afraid of harming the suspension setting by whacking on it.
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edjack



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
Posts: 3887
Location: San Jose, CA

PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 8:05 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

A pickle fork is a barbaric way to separate joints, but, if you have to, you have to. If you have an air chisel, use the fork made for it.

I would crank down on the separator, and leave it set overnight. May pop then.
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patrickf



Joined: 15 Mar 2009
Posts: 4
Location: Rochester, New York

PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 9:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Exactly! The pickle fork was a last resort. I did leave the ball joint separator cranked down overnight hoping I would see it hanging in the morning but now such luck.

So I will be trying an air chisel shortly. Man, this one is on there. I'm hosed if I can't get it off. Who said this job was easy?! Good thing the garage is heated.
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patrickf



Joined: 15 Mar 2009
Posts: 4
Location: Rochester, New York

PostPosted: Sun Mar 15, 2009 4:52 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

OK, its done. After I made the bolt on the lower control arm bushing look like a bent finger I tried the pickle fork and winced. I was ready with the air chisel but opted for heat. I cut off the bent portion of the bolt. A friend of mine brought over his acetylene torch and we heated up the housing around the bolt. I struck the pickle fork in there and with a tap, it released. Finally.

A test drive confirmed the obvious, the bushings were shot. Tight tight tight. Awesome. The PowerFlex urethane bushings are so much better than stock BMW rubber bushings.

What I don't understand is the BMW fix for this. They went to a stronger, 66mm control arm but did nothing to upgrade the outer bushing (I purchased Mayle's). I would think they would re-design that portion too. So, I went aftermarket.

I purchased both from bimmerworld. Very satisfied.

Thanks for the advice.
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SSearch



Joined: 15 Apr 2003
Posts: 591
Location: Vermont, USA

PostPosted: Fri May 08, 2009 12:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've fought with ball joints, pitman arms, etc - Living in Vermont, trust me, some of them have put up a good fight. I usually crank the seperator down, and then give the top of the bolt a solid whack. The shock tends to be just what's needed for the stubborn ones.
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ddupy



Joined: 17 May 2009
Posts: 10
Location: SE Iowa

PostPosted: Tue May 19, 2009 11:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I had a 93 318is that I replaced the control arms on. They just practically fell off!! I guess I was just lucky............
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