Unofficialbmw.com

[Ken Juul]

'87 325ic. Car has been sitting in the cold for over a week while I was away. Got in this morning and had a very hard time getting into reverse. Also been noticing that the back up lights are intermittant, probably because I am not getting full throw. Haven't looked at the Bentleys yet. Anybody had these symptoms? I am assuming I need to replace the bushings. Any other hardware, connecting pins, linkage parts, etc that should also be changed?

I've thought about switching to a short throw, but at 410K miles it is probably not needed. I've done without for 10+ years.

[cmcon98]

You can make it as good as new by replacing all the bushings, the shift rod coupler, the shift rod, and the shift lever. With 410k, the bushings are definitely gone, and the ends of the shift rod are probably worn, as is (probably) the bore in the bottom of the shift lever where the shift rod attaches. About $100 or so will buy all the stuff above, and you can install yourself in an hour or so. If your shifter feels like a big spoon in a vat of lumpy mashed potatoes, the above will make it feel as close to new as it's gonna with that many miles on the rest of the car.
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Cirrusblau '88 325iC 5-speed
Cosmosschwartz '99 M3 'vert 5-speed

[peerless]

I recommend a delrin front mount. The stock bushing in this area sucks. You can get the delrin mount from AKG Motorsports.

http://akgmotorsport.com/e30products.html

Also make sure to address your transmission mounts as these will contribute to the problem.

Here is a video of a stock shift console mount in a 92 convertible. This bushing has about 5K miles on it. Yes thats only 5,000 miles.

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v176/peerless/?action=view&current=DSCN0483.flv

After installing the new delrin bushing all side to side slop was eliminated.



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Robert

E30 Repair and Maintenance Services
714-398-8405

[Quincy56]

Also put some good synthetic fluid like RedLine in there. Makes cold shifting a lot easier.
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92 325ic - Isabelle
91 318i - Oscar - RIP
89 325i - Otis - RIP

[dale]

My experience is that the Shift Lever, and the front coupler (6 and 14 below) are the two biggest causes of slop in an E30 shifter.
New lever, around $50, new coupler, around $25.

Some posts about this:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?p=27317

The 30% reduction short shifter I use is from a 1996 Z3 with 1.9l engine.
Replace the front brass knuckle/coupler/bushing/connection, thingy, to minimize slop in the shifter.

If you have the sheet metal console of an 84/85 car, reference this page:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/drivetrain/short_shifter/

Lots and lots of info on doing a short shifter project, says E36, but directly applies to 86-91 E30:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_replace_a_shift_lever.html

Dale




Z3 30% reduction over stock E30 lever:

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http://www.unofficialbmw.com
UnofficialBMW.com Webmaster
dale@unofficialbmw.com
sold in 2016
87 325 5spd eta

[85-325e]

In my case, the bushing in the shift lever around the "12" where it links was totally worn and was the biggest culprit... They were ALL worn after all those years though!
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Cosmo - 1985 BMW 325e, Single Owner, 265,000+ ORIGINAL miles and still going strong! But now on the East Coast and the salt air corrosion is eating my beautiful car alive...

[Ken Juul]

I am all ready running a synthetic.
To Summarize, have I got this right?
Robert says to replace #2 with Delrin
All say to replace #6, might as well upgrade to the short shift
All say to replace #14

Is most of the wear in #6 & #14 or should I plan on replacing #11?
How about #7?

I really don't think I have alot of slop, just evidence that I'm not getting full throw. I report back when I'm done. Not trying to build a racer, just need to keep the daily driver on the road a few more years. I guess I should have done it when I did the driveline/seals a few years ago, but didn't have a crystal ball.

[peerless]

#11 does not wear out. #7 is also good to replace. If you want to be super thorough replace number 4 as well.
_________________
Robert

E30 Repair and Maintenance Services
714-398-8405

[cmcon98]

My advice is to listen to Robert. He makes his living running an E30-focuseed business. My only addition is if you use the delrin bushings, glue them inot the aluminum shift support with silicone sealer to prevent them from rattling.
_________________
Cirrusblau '88 325iC 5-speed
Cosmosschwartz '99 M3 'vert 5-speed

[dale]

Agree with Robert on #11, don't need to replace it as it is a much harder metal then the brass front coupler and the plastic insert in the bottom of the shift lever. The brass and plastic wear _much_ faster then the metal of #11.

Yes, get some good lube, I think I used white lithium grease.

Also replace the tiny little insert, #20, 10mm diameter?, that goes into the front coupler as well, about $0.50 at the dealer, it helps keep proper pre-load on the coupler.

Dale
_________________
http://www.unofficialbmw.com
UnofficialBMW.com Webmaster
dale@unofficialbmw.com
sold in 2016
87 325 5spd eta

[peerless]

Regarding grease for the delrin bushing and shifter parts I recommend 'Plasti-Lube'

White lithium can dry out over time, plasti-lube never dries out, washes away, melts away, nothing. It stays put.

It can be ordered from just about any parts house that carries ATE products.
Its also good on the backside of brake pads to prevent brake squeal. I use it on all my poly and delrin bushings, brakes, and where ever else I might need it.


_________________
Robert

E30 Repair and Maintenance Services
714-398-8405

[Ken Juul]

What a difference new parts make! Love the short throw! Crisp and tight! This is really a great upgrade.

Other than my self induced "stumped" moment it went very well. Robert and Dale are correct, #11 the "Straight Selector Rod" does not need to be replaced. No visible wear after 400K miles.

[idanity]

im now used to the short throw, and its just great...cant remember a time i didnt have it.
but,

i still have a bit of play while its in gear.
so
im planning on replacing #14...(or actually i tried multiple times, but cannot get my car lifted high enough to get my monkey arms in there).

so, its going to west werks someday that i save up some cash...got the parts..just not the extra $..(took a paycut lately...uggg.!)

o-well

basic question here, is
after the swap, does everyone still have a bit of play while its in gear
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..........

[Ken Juul]

#14 is mounted on a ball at the end of the shift shaft. My old one just flopped around. The new one is tight. Will still move if forced, but not sloppy like the old. The sloppyness is caused by a worn #20 (rubber sponge like insert). There was also alot of wear inside #14 where the straight shift rod (#11) attaches.

If you have the small buibo, on a lift it might be possible to just replace #14 without taking everything out. On your back on the floor I don't think so.

[cmcon98]

I have a Z3 1.9 lever, delrin bushings glued in with silicone sealer, and a new coupler and foam insert, and I have no play at all in gear. I could move the lever around if I forced it, but there's no looseness.

Only problem is that it's really notchy compared to stock. I'm used to it now and I like it, but if someone jumped from my E36M3 into the E30 they'd think it felt very stiff.
_________________
Cirrusblau '88 325iC 5-speed
Cosmosschwartz '99 M3 'vert 5-speed