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shifter question 89 cabrio
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idanity



Joined: 21 May 2005
Posts: 3097
Location: N.W.U.S.A.

PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 5:15 pm    Post subject: shifter question 89 cabrio Reply with quote

taught (or tried to teach) my g.f. to drive a stick (yes, in the cabrio) and the shifter has a lot more play now.

well.
ive got the z3 1.9 shifter on order, and what else do i need Question

what, how is the process when the tranny is installed. (last time i cleaned it all up, was when i had the tranny on the sidewalk.)

what are all the extra parts i would want to replace too.

or
should this be done at a shop Question

i remember getting the rear end of the shifter not in its hole (under the car) and having to pull the motor up 3-4 inches to allow room.


but it was a while ago, and i think there was a bolt i could (or couldnt) access...

anyone done this upgrade ? (with pix) Question
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Quincy56



Joined: 03 Jan 2002
Posts: 2632
Location: San Marcos, CA

PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 6:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done the upgrade, but I don't have much written up about it.

However, there is a lot of good pictures here:
http://www.understeer.com/shiftlever.shtml
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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
Posts: 3087
Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Sun Mar 16, 2008 11:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Ron Stygar has done a ton of work modifying stock shifters. He has a lot of information on this site about upgrading your shift lever.

Ron's page:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/ronstygar.html

See the images on this page and click through each image to read the details
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_short_shifter_images.html

Dale
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idanity



Joined: 21 May 2005
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks guys.
i do remember reading a post (say 6 months ago) that was full of info, but the search button found every post ever posted as a "find"... Confused
well. i appreciate the help, and i will take a few pix when (if) i complete it.
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LarrygP



Joined: 16 Aug 2004
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Location: West Chester, Pa

PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I found these very useful.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Shift_Bushings/E36-Shift_Bushings.htm

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Short_Shift/E36-Short_Shift.htm
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dale



Joined: 22 Aug 1999
Posts: 3087
Location: Seattle, WA USA

PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 8:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've updated and upgraded and repaired over a dozen E30 shift mechanisms.
I found that the largest wear spots are in the bottom of the shift lever, and in the shift-knuckle on the back of the transmission.

Hint: when teaching anyone to drive a stick, have them pretend the shift lever is very fragile, to someone who has never used one they have no idea how much force is needed. If you're shifting correctly, you don't need to force the shift.

Some links:
read this one first, e30 and e36 have same style shifter, some parts are different though:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_replace_a_shift_lever.html

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/drivetrain/
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/drivetrain/e30_remove_shifter_slop.html
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/drivetrain/e30_more_shifter_info.html
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/drivetrain/e30_shifter_slop.html
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_rons_short_shifter_install.html
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_rons_short_shifter_install_extra_bend.html

If you really want to get into shift levers, try this one:
http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/drivetrain/e36_shorten_shift_lever.html


Shift Knuckle/Joint:



Bottom of the shift lever:




#23 and #10 in this pic(note this shows 84-86 style 2piece shift lever, later models are all 1 piece):

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wazzu70



Joined: 26 Jul 2005
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 11:00 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would also put the delrin bushings in the trans end of the arm that the shifter mounts in (if yours has this design, maybe only the newer ones do?). Any part that is rubber and is a mount for any bracing should be replaced as well, I noticed a huge improvement just replacing the rubber mount at the rear of the sifter mounting arm. When the rear trans seal starts to leak it spreads fluid everywhere down there and it soaks the mounts and deteriorates them.
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idanity



Joined: 21 May 2005
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 2:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

i would love to have the derlin carrier bushing, but really don't want to remove the carrier (or the "bit%# clip).

the short shifter has been on my to do list, and while she was learning to shift, she forgot to engage the clutch, and started tugging at the shifter, and pulling it all sorts of ways.


well. its not the worst shifter ive used, but it did go to the top of my list.

thanks everyone, for all the links.



p.s. i've been reading up about dssr (double sheer selecting rods) for less notchy-ness. and also the "UUC 3-Series Evolution III SSK " kit.

but will try the z3 1.9l shifter 1st and go from there.

since im not going to undo the carrier, i will also not take this to a shop. and will do it on the next sunny day.
Question should i replace the guibo while im in there (meaning, should i remove the driveline, OR is this a fairly simple job, easily accessed. Question

any other advice/reviews are always welcome.
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wazzu70



Joined: 26 Jul 2005
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 17, 2008 3:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always remove the driveline, but then again when I do it I usually replace EVERYTHING to make sure I dont need to mess with it anymore. I have unclipped and just replaced the shifter from the top and reaching over the driveline to remove the clip, but Im thinking you should replace the other bushings as well as those are usually the problem. Also dont forget to replace the plastic cup bearing as well in the shifter support arm.
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1984 BMW 325e
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cmcon98



Joined: 13 Nov 2002
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Location: Boston

PostPosted: Tue Mar 18, 2008 3:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since you're doing the Z3 shift lever, I'd replace the shift knuckle that attaches to the tranny selector shaft, the pin that goes through the knuckle, the plastic ball cup that fits into the aluminum shifter support, and possibly the selector rod.

Look at the ends of the selector rod to see if they're worn. Slip the selector rod through your new shifter and knuckle to see how much play there is. If there's little or no play, you can reuse the selector rod (they're expensive). You may have to bend the rod a little to clear the guibo with the Z3 lever.

The delrin bushings for the transmission end of the shifter support are also a good idea. The stock rubber bushing is squishy and allows a lot of movement.

If you reassemble everything carefully, your shifter should be better than new with the Z3 lever.
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idanity



Joined: 21 May 2005
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PostPosted: Thu Mar 20, 2008 5:36 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

got the call today.

going to get the parts, go back to work, and plan on installing tomorrow .
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idanity



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PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 6:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

got parts- Smile


-lever...........................................25117527252 = $ 79.94
-spec.shim (x4)............................25111220439 = $ 01.10
-trans.shim..................................25111469397 = $ 11.34
-joint...........................................25117501309 = $ 49.21
-spec.circlip.................................25111220379 = $ 01.56
-o rings((x2)tranny joint)............25111221243 = $ 02.00
-spec shim..................................25111220199 = c 00.6
.

totaling 164.49

strange to know that there is "no dust cover" under the shift ball. there are 2 above it.
and
does anyone have the "felt" around there shifter any longer. i noticed on the frame network, it should be there. but i only have the rubber types.
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DJB



Joined: 19 Jan 2007
Posts: 293

PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 6:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Uhmm, is this for a 1989 car?

You ordered o-rings and matching spacers. Those are only used with the original bushings on early model cars. You have the late design, and even the replacements for the early style no longer use o-rings. (There were an attempt to seal the joint.)

The yellow plastic (Delrin or similar) washers provide the side-load bearing surface and seal the bushing well enough.
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idanity



Joined: 21 May 2005
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 9:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

INSTALLED, and NOW in 2cnd, it hits the driveline. (well just for a second.)

if i tap the stick while its in 2cnd and rolling, i can hear it rub on the driveshaft.


every other gear works perfect.
but
i will investigate further on finding out exactly where/what is touching what/where.

Rolling Eyes
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wazzu70



Joined: 26 Jul 2005
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 23, 2008 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have to bend the shift lever to clear the guibo. I flattened mine in the area it rubs (around the notch) and then tweaked it a little.
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1984 BMW 325e
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