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Billo Site Admin

Joined: 29 Jan 2003 Posts: 2047 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2003 11:04 pm Post subject: Tryin' the pic thing |
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just a test of pic publishin'
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Billo Site Admin

Joined: 29 Jan 2003 Posts: 2047 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2003 11:11 pm Post subject: Tryin' the pic thing |
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Well, that didn't work.
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Billo Site Admin

Joined: 29 Jan 2003 Posts: 2047 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Wed Feb 12, 2003 11:21 pm Post subject: Tryin' the pic thing |
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Third time charm?
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Billo Site Admin

Joined: 29 Jan 2003 Posts: 2047 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2003 1:17 am Post subject: Tryin' the pic thing |
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Still goin'
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JRS

Joined: 09 Jun 2002 Posts: 2386 Location: USA
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Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2003 5:07 am Post subject: Tryin' the pic thing |
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Load the pic to your ISP target directory and then use the URL to point to that file (include the ISP target directory and the full file name - including the extension).
JRS |
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Billo Site Admin

Joined: 29 Jan 2003 Posts: 2047 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2003 11:42 am Post subject: Tryin' the pic thing |
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Hey, Thanks. I tried every variation of paths. I talked to my ISP this morn and he said it might be a permission issue with the public_html. He's supposed to get back with me shortly. When I right click on you pic, go to properties, copy the link and paste it in the address bar, it displays your car in explorer. When I do the same with mine it even gives me the error. Maybe by tonight …Another reason I like this board, I even get help with computer stuff. Once again, thanks. |
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jrez
Joined: 04 Jun 2001 Posts: 50 Location: Canada
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Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2003 12:11 pm Post subject: Tryin' the pic thing |
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Is this the same billo who worked on Commanders?
If yes,keep me posted on how you make out with body kit project.
Thinking of doing the same
Cheers'
John
[ 02-13-2003: Message edited by: jrez ] |
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Billo Site Admin

Joined: 29 Jan 2003 Posts: 2047 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2003 3:05 pm Post subject: Tryin' the pic thing |
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Hey,
I’ve been wanting to do a little dissertation on cams. There are two or three posts a couple of pages back that tempted me. Here’s a link for you. It has a bit about cam basics if you feel inclined to research this. It’s all I can do to keep from ‘working’ on this car. I have to continually remind myself why I bought it and what I gave up to drive it daily. In the past, I’ve kept a car around like these just to dink with and bolt on hop-up parts were numerous. One thing I’ve found is that you can pay any amount you want to fix, upgrade, and hotrod these cars. It just depends on how resourceful you are. Cam basics begin on page 62 or the ‘Mini-guide’. The folks that wrote this did pretty well for basics. The pdf file is about 5 Meg in size and I was tempted to just post the cam info but there may be some who would like the info. Hope this helps.
Cam Basics pg 62
M20 Schrick Camshafts
- Schrick 272-272º duration, 11 mm lift. Smooth idle, works with automatic transmission. Dual valve springs required.
P/N 11386272323
- Schrick 288-288º duration, 11.4mm of lift. Lumpy idle limits application to manual transmission models only. Works best with a performance chip, free flow intake and exhaust systems. Dual Valve Springs and titanium retainers required.
P/N 11386288323
- Schrick 272-272º duration, 11 mm lift. Smooth idle, works with automatic transmission. Best when used with a performance chip. Dual valve springs required. P/N 11386272323
If you're putting an "i" cam in an eta head, make sure the head is drilled to oil all seven cam bearings. Most eta heads/cams only use four of the seven journals. If you put a seven-journal cam in an eta head without drilling the passages, the cam will seize quickly.
The “eta” motor is the same block, but an increase of stroke brings it to 2.7 liters. It has the same torque as the i motor, but it doesn’t get the horsepower (121hp); BMW worked to lower emissions and increase economy without decreasing drivability. They did that be increasing stroke, and keeping what is reported to be a good amount of torque down low. The pistons are fly-cut, and the head is smaller volume, keeping a 9:1 compression ratio.
You can put an i head (236 degree 10mm lift stock cam) on an eta motor. Due to the fact that the eta heads are fly-cut, whereas the i heads are not, the resulting compression will be approximately 7:1. But you’ll get the flow benefits of the better head and valve train. To confuse things further, the super-eta head is the same as the i head, but with the softer valve train (and the block will allow the conversion to the i head without loss of compression). If you just slap an i head on an eta motor, the decrease of compression will lower the performance, not increase it.
Product:Camshaft
Dbilas Dynamictol(284/272)
Product: Camshaft (stock 236 degree)
Brand: LEMFORDER
List Price: $420.00
Prices As Low As: $216.16
Product: Camshaft (stock 236 degree)
Brands: FEBI, CAMKO
List Price: $395.00
Prices As Low As: $186.77
Bill
[ 02-17-2004: Message edited by: Billo ] |
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Billo Site Admin

Joined: 29 Jan 2003 Posts: 2047 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2003 3:06 pm Post subject: Tryin' the pic thing |
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Billo Site Admin

Joined: 29 Jan 2003 Posts: 2047 Location: Oklahoma City
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Posted: Thu Feb 13, 2003 4:23 pm Post subject: Tryin' the pic thing |
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Bingo! A few tips for publishin'. Your URL may not be what you think it is. After publishing your pics on the IP server, call them and have them e-mail you the address where the pics are and make sure they can see the pics. Linux servers are really, really case sensitive. I guess it's better to use 'all' lower case, even on pic names. Less chance of failure.
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