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automatic locking system 325ic

 
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k1hb



Joined: 20 Nov 2002
Posts: 1239
Location: boston

PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:36 pm    Post subject: automatic locking system 325ic Reply with quote

So i managed to recal and adjust all locks, one solenoid apparently was stuck, replaced, now i would like to reinstall or fix the automatic locking system.
i understand its quite complex, i need a pointer on how to sleuthe this out, iirc there was quite a write up on this board way back when.

any help?

fred
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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
Posts: 4712
Location: Southampton, NY

PostPosted: Thu Sep 20, 2012 12:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What's happening Fred? I've done a lot of work on my central locking. What are your symptoms? Do any locks lock electronically?
_________________
Cosmo - 1985 BMW 325e, Single Owner, 265,000+ ORIGINAL miles and still going strong! But now on the East Coast and the salt air corrosion is eating my beautiful car alive... Sad

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k1hb



Joined: 20 Nov 2002
Posts: 1239
Location: boston

PostPosted: Fri Oct 05, 2012 8:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks for replying:

i can't lock entire car from behind, i cant lock entire car from the driver's side, every locking has to be done manually on each door/trunk.
otherwise: keys work ok.
where do i start lookin' for bug?
325ic

tks for offering help!
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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
Posts: 4712
Location: Southampton, NY

PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 11:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The main culprit on these central locking systems is usually the driver's side actuator. I'll warn you ahead of time that the actuators are pricey.

You access the central locking module by removing the speaker in the driver's side kick panel. Reach in and down, and there's a plastic cover, held in by a screw that goes in from behind the carpeting. remove the screw and then the cover. The locking module and the dome light relay are on a triangular bracket down in there, also held by bolts that are behind the carpeting.

If the driver's side door actuator, which is different than the other 4 actuators is not working well, it'll cause all of them to work badly or malfunction.

Here are some articles from the technical section:

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/electrical/e30_central_locking_faq.html

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/electrical/e30_central_locking_troubleshooting1.html

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/interior/door_locks/central_locking.html

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/interior/door_locks/e30_central_locking_troubleshooting.html

http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e30/interior/door_locks/e30_chrisp_central_lock_faq.html
_________________
Cosmo - 1985 BMW 325e, Single Owner, 265,000+ ORIGINAL miles and still going strong! But now on the East Coast and the salt air corrosion is eating my beautiful car alive... Sad

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k1hb



Joined: 20 Nov 2002
Posts: 1239
Location: boston

PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 12:14 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

thanks.
the drivers side actuator was locked and i replaced it.

wouldnt i hear a click if it was an actuator problem?

or are there fuses in the central unit. i mean: why would i have to open that unit?....to replace what in there?

the faqs on central locking are just too discouraging, i loose it in there, makes no sense. following the connections would be easier....
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k1hb



Joined: 20 Nov 2002
Posts: 1239
Location: boston

PostPosted: Sat Oct 06, 2012 1:04 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok i guess will printout all that info and get going. that plug on pillar a on drivers side, covered with a rubber boot....any pix in the bentley manual to guide me?

fred
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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
Posts: 4712
Location: Southampton, NY

PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Fred... How are you making out with your central locking?

For what it's worth, I struggled with it for a long time... I even bought some new actuators (not all but several), and even one or two of those had problems and had to be returned.

You have no need to get to the main module unless you determine it's faulty. However, one thing you should know... that well where the CLM is located, behind the kick panel, can fill with water if there's a leak and destroy the mudlue itself. When I removed it to get to my dome light relay, I found that the dome light relay was totally, and I mean TOTALLY, rusted out, with parts and capacitors just floating around int he bottom with tons of rust dust.
_________________
Cosmo - 1985 BMW 325e, Single Owner, 265,000+ ORIGINAL miles and still going strong! But now on the East Coast and the salt air corrosion is eating my beautiful car alive... Sad

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k1hb



Joined: 20 Nov 2002
Posts: 1239
Location: boston

PostPosted: Wed Oct 10, 2012 5:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

urgh!
no: i went to look into the ctrler and found it pretty dry/clean. will ck closer again
where exacty is that multipin sockett that lets me ck out the contacts?
i have the bentley and another book....
i think i should start thereabouts, or then ask my local eectrical repairman for a go at it? usually they find out in minutes whats wrong.
you were absolutely right: it started out with a bum actuator in the drivers side door that i replaced after i broke the key in the lock! it still didnt work and i frustrated out.
those screws on the armrest are not to be intermixed, ones short the other long. if you do, the window will not go up all the way.
as you said: dont ask me how i found out!

fred
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85-325e



Joined: 30 Jun 2002
Posts: 4712
Location: Southampton, NY

PostPosted: Thu Oct 11, 2012 12:38 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Fred... There are several multi-pin sockets, but the one I think you're probably shooting for is the one that connects the door to the rest of the wiring. The door has its own harness, and when a door is replace, they disconnect that connector on the door pillar on the front, and remove the door, then put the door back and reconnect the connector. You should be able to remove the rubber boot, carefully so it doesn't tear, that covers the wires and the connector itself. That boot is attached to the connector on that front pillar.
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Cosmo - 1985 BMW 325e, Single Owner, 265,000+ ORIGINAL miles and still going strong! But now on the East Coast and the salt air corrosion is eating my beautiful car alive... Sad

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fporro



Joined: 27 Jun 2000
Posts: 218
Location: Hawaii

PostPosted: Tue Nov 06, 2012 2:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

^ I'll second that, inspect connector at door pillar. pins do rust in there.
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cheers,
Frank
e30 parts bin

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