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tncean · Joined: 26 Feb 2005 Posts: 1622 Location: Chattanooga, Tn.

I strongly agree with 325e (Enis), there are options for you to consider. IMHO, adding a qt. of oil every 3k or so isn't that big of a deal on these engines.

My 325i has about 275k on it, and if I get "sporty", like driving at 80 mph for a few hours, or getting on it through some curvys for a while, it will use a bit of oil. It's just the way it is; a 20 something year old car that even when "new", probably used a bit of oil when driven hard.

Having a cylinder head rebuilt would probably run in the 1800-2000$ range. I would insist that ALL coolant hoses be replaced. Basically, the cyl head is removed, sent to an automotive machine shop to be serviced, which includes valve guides, cleaning of valve surfaces, "truing" the surface of the head, amongst other things. The head is then re-installed.
A new cyl head is pricy, probably in the 1k$ range. A "rebuilt" ain't cheap, either, 4 to 6 hundred and up. And then, there's the labor.

From what you've described earlier, I would think it wise to first clean the engine, and replace the valve cover gasket and the camshaft end seals, (they are on front and back edge of cyl head). The parts are probably in the 15$ range. If it's been more than a few k, check and adjust the valves, while the valve cover is off. Having a shop do that would probably be in the less than 200$ range, if they supply the parts.

DO use a reputable shop that WILL gurantee their work. Ask around, esp at auto parts stores, whom they would use. Get more than 2 suggestions.

If you do the head rebuild, find out which machine shop the BMW dealer in your area uses, and insist that shop be used. Why? BMW dealers have a 2 year or 24k warranty on their repairs.

Don't rush into a cyl head job. Getting the leaks fixed, adding some Lucas upper cyl head juice, or some Seafoam to a 1/2 tank of gas, and then getting the revs into the 4k area for a good few minutes might do you just fine.

Good luck with your decisions.

t

m78 · Posted: Sun Apr 01, 2012 9:29 pm Post subject:

thanks for all that, it's very helpful to at least get some
ideas on prices.

the upper block looks covered in oil on the passenger side, and covered halfway back on the driver's side. dry after that. of course the lower plastic skid cover and the aluminum driveshaft cover are covered in oil.

Would the sea foam would help the leaks?

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Lachssilber Metallic 203 1988 325i sedan with 200,xxx miles

Top Speed 220 km/h

(OO=00=OO)

85-325e · Joined: 30 Jun 2002 Posts: 4611 Location: Southampton, NY

Seafoam won't help the leaks... but it'll possibly lessen the oil consumption.
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Cosmo - 1985 BMW 325e, Single Owner, 231,000+ ORIGINAL miles and still going strong!

m78 · Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 7:33 am Post subject:

It's not burning any oil. The need to add the oil is a result of the leaks.

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_________________
Lachssilber Metallic 203 1988 325i sedan with 200,xxx miles

Top Speed 220 km/h

(OO=00=OO)

beejay · Joined: 18 Nov 2002 Posts: 1136 Location: Eastern, Pa

m78 · Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 10:08 am Post subject:

It leaks the most while driving.

But there is no sign of any oil burning. But lots of oil coming out all
over the plastic skid plate as well as all the undercarriage, under the floorboards, all the way back to the diff. And of course the engine and engine bay.

And there is some oil spotting on the parking spot.
_________________
Lachssilber Metallic 203 1988 325i sedan with 200,xxx miles

Top Speed 220 km/h

(OO=00=OO)

Ken Juul · Posted: Mon Apr 02, 2012 11:07 am Post subject: Re: Leaks

At 200K if the cam, idler and crank seals have not been replaced they are the probably sources of your leaks. You should be coming up on a Timing belt change, I know the book says every 60K, but I would rather replace at 50K than take the chance. Clean it up until then and do the seals when you do the T belt.