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Front rotor removal

 
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drdchin



Joined: 26 Jan 2007
Posts: 11
Location: Alameda, CA

PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 4:23 pm    Post subject: Front rotor removal Reply with quote

I started changing by front brakes and rotors on my 1997 528i (e39). I remove the caliper and pads, but I am having a difficult removing the rotor. All the bolts are off and I sprayed it with wd40 and been hitting it with a mallet for 30 minutes. I went to my local auto parts store to find a tool, but they tell me no such tool exists.

I changed the rear brakes and rotors two years ago, but I do not recall such difficulty. Any suggestions in getting the stubborn rotor off?
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edjack



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
Posts: 3887
Location: San Jose, CA

PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You need to remove the small flush bolt, and also the caliper carrier bracket. In your climate, the rotor should fall off in your hand.
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Ed BMW CCA member since 1987 (Nr. 62319).
'97 540i 6 speed Aspensilber over Aubergine interior.
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drdchin



Joined: 26 Jan 2007
Posts: 11
Location: Alameda, CA

PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have already removed the bolt and the caliper bracket and it is still stubborn. I finally was able to remove the front passenger rotor after spraying with WD40 and much pounding with a ball peen hammer, but that took a least 2 hours. I am currently working on the driver side. I worked on it last night with no success. It has been drenched with WD40 all night. I will try again this evening after work.

Any clues to getting the rotor off any easier?
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edjack



Joined: 04 Feb 2002
Posts: 3887
Location: San Jose, CA

PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 8:02 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm surprised you're having trouble in our climate. Mine are easy to remove. As I said, they fall off in my hand. Maybe you get more moisture up your way.

WD-40 is not a very good rust penetrant. Kano Kroil is very good, as is a mix of ATF and acetone.

"The April/May 2007 edition of Machinist's Workshop did a test of penetrating oils where they measured the force required to loosen rusty test devices. Buy the issue if you want to see how they did the test. The results reported were interesting. The lower the number of pounds the better. Mighty interesting results for simple acetone and tranny fluid!

Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10

The ATF-Acetone mix was a 50/50 mix (1 to 1 ratio)."


After you get them off, apply a thin smear (schmear?) of anti-seize to the mating surfaces.
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Ed BMW CCA member since 1987 (Nr. 62319).
'97 540i 6 speed Aspensilber over Aubergine interior.
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walshja



Joined: 03 Apr 2001
Posts: 1139
Location: guilford, ct, usa

PostPosted: Fri Jul 17, 2009 1:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

being in CT, mine are always welded on the car.

what I use is a 4' long 4x4 piece of wood. I get under the car, and a couple good swings like you would a ramrod and you are good to go
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1994 325iC, 195k miles
http://home.comcast.net/~walshja/index.html <--- check it out

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