Unofficialbmw.com

[bearing01]

Getrag Manual Transmission

I think it's the detent cover that's leaking. Before taking these pics I thought it was the shifter rod seal but now I think it's the detent cover. What do you think?

Tranny Case Mess


Shift Rod Knuckle (in the mirror)


Shift Rod Seal (in mirror) #1


Shift Rod Seal (in mirror) #2


Shift Rod Seal (in mirror) #3


Detent Cover (in mirror) #1


Detent Cover (in mirror) #2

[menuhin]

My car has tranny oil leaks too, have yet to find out if replacing the tranny seals will do the job
_________________
My E30 101 finished: Red 1986 325es (103K miles only)
- completed: tbelt, h2o pump, rust holes, tie rods, ca & m3 cab, sports s&s, backup light, tranny seals, 3.25 LSD, short shifter
FAREWELL my 325es!

[Chuck Baader]

Feel on top of your trans around the vent hole. Most leak from there. Chuck
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SCCA #36 E30, ITA
BMWCCA #36 E30, MP

[85-325e]

In the shift rod knuckle shot above, the area around the selector rod seal is VERY damp... You'd be surprised how much oil makes its way out of there...

Once it starts to drip down, it splatters and drools everywhere.
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Cosmo - 1985 BMW 325e, Single Owner, 231,000+ ORIGINAL miles and still going strong!

[peerless]

clean off the detent cover and surrounding area with carb spray then snug the 2 bolts down. The seal relaxes and needs to be re-tightened. Replace the selector shaft seal and the shift knuckle. While you have the driveshaft out ditch that damn vibration drum and replace the 6 driveshaft bolts. Don't forget the main seal, though they never really leak. May want to replace the trans mounts also.

Also rebuild the shift console with new front bushings and a solid polyurethane rear bushing. PM me and I can get you the information to order the rear bushing, $15.

Top it off with new nylon shifter cups and bushings with a E36 M3 shifter and you will be supremely happy.

PS, be very careful if you remove the detent cover. Springs and check balls are under the cover.
_________________
Robert

E30 Repair and Maintenance Services
714-398-8405

[bearing01]

Thanks,

The shifter was rebuilt last year with the 1.8L short shifter. Tranny mounts are new also. Had the d/s out at that time and didn't try heat on the tranny flange nut, and also didn't have a big enough air compressor at that time. I was going to do the shift rod seal but the friggin bowl was to big to work around.

I got a shorter differential gear I'm going to throw in sometime this summer. I got another driveshaft that I'm probably going to throw in as well. when I got it all out I'll do the tranny flange seal, detent cover and shifter rod seal. It's not that bad of a leak right now. It doesn't drip unless I drive a long distance and really heat up the tranny.

All along I wasn't 100% sure where the leak was. I figured it was on top somewhere but everytime I looked it didn't seem to be the shift rod or flange seal. It wasn't clear by just feeling around and I couldn't really see even with the mirror. Only with the camera zoomed the pictures showed where the leak was. I had forgotten about the detent cover.

[menuhin]

If the transmission of my car is like this, should I stop driving it and fix the transmission first?
Apart from going under and unscrew the top drain plug and test it if it fills up to that hole's level, Can I tell something about if the amount of tranny oil is enough?
_________________
My E30 101 finished: Red 1986 325es (103K miles only)
- completed: tbelt, h2o pump, rust holes, tie rods, ca & m3 cab, sports s&s, backup light, tranny seals, 3.25 LSD, short shifter
FAREWELL my 325es!

[bearing01]

THe only way to check your oil level is to see if you can feel oil with your finger through the fill hole.

When the tranny starts to run low the car will be harder to shift into gear. Also, engine running with foot off the clutch and car out of gear ( in neutral ) the tranny will make a little rattle / rumbling noise that's louder than before.

It's fine to drive with a leak... just make sure you don't run low on oil.