I understand that this article may have been posted in a Digest that did not go out, so, in case there is any interest, I am reposting it. Sorry if this has wasted any bandwidth if it was double posted.
Regards to all,
Carl
ps I autocrossed all weekend at our Divisionals at Wendover in a raging rain storm. Shaved R1's really aren't all that bad, even in the wet. It was slippery, but I doubt that street tires would have been any better.
Rolando queries...
From: rsaldana@qualcomm.com (Rolando Saldana)
Date: Tue, 21 May 1996 17:46:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: BFG R1's for M3
It will soon be time to get the M3 Lite out on the track. For that, I plan to get a set of BFG R1(235/45-17) tires mounted on standard M3 10-spoke wheels. This is the first time that I will use R1's. My understanding is that they need to be heat cycled or shaved prior to using them at high speed to avoid uneven wear. It was suggested to me that an auto-X is equivalent to heat cycling the tires, as long as the tires are not used 48 hours after the auto-X. Great excuse to take the car out to the next local auto-X. Is there another way of properly heat-cycling these tires? Or is it better just to have them shaved? What about recommended pressures?
Thanks,
'95 M3 LTW
'86 944
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Dear Rolando, et al,
There are several options for track tires for the M3. I think that the BFG's are the best option, but I hope that you hear from others who have tried Yok's, Hoosiers, or Toyos.
If you go to the R1's, look up the article on the Net found at the following address:
http://www.research.digital.com/CRL/personal/hawe/bfgtires.html
Heat cyling your tires by doing an autocross would NOT be a good idea. Put the tires on, drive them thru some curves in as spirtited a fashion as you can without loosing your license (several laps thru a cloverleaf is perfect). Do this for about 30 minutes, then TAKE THE TIRES OFF and let them rest for 24 to 48 hours. Then they are ready.
SHAVING is recommended when HEAT is expected. If you are going to drive them hard at the track, they will actually last longer starting out with 4/32, than they will unshaved at 6/32. However, if you are not all that hard on them, the extra tread means just that--more tread, and longer life. Also, if you will be in any rain, you will not want to shave them. Shaved tires are stickier. Period, unless it is wet.
I wrote a few very naive articles about R1's when I first started out that may be of some insight. For example, you will want to join Team TA to buy them for only $150 each. Here's how:
1-800-RACE-BFG
they will send you an application, and then , after they have ascertained that you will use them in some sort of competition, they will allow you to order as a Team TA member.
Here is an article that may say something you need to know:
%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20%20Tires%20for%20Drivers%20School>
Subject: Tires for Drivers School
Copies to: Jim Conforti <jec@us.dynix.com>, Hunter Heath
<HEATH@ENDO.MED.UTAH.EDU> Send reply to: buckland@alinc.com Date
sent: Mon, 28 Aug 1995 10:44:58
From: Lic2fly@aol.com
Subject: Tires for driving school.
Hello fellow digesters. I was interested in the opinion of the fine people in this audience about the topic of tires for the track. I have an '87 535is and am interested in tires for the track and possible light auto-cross ///Paul Alvarado 1987 535is
Buy BF Goodrich R1's. Period. They are available from BFG at a fabulous price. Call 1-800-RACE-BFG. Make sure that they know that you intend to compete in at least some autocrosses, as their promotion is based on the idea that they will get at least some advertizing exposure.
You are using 225\60\16. They have 225\50 and255\50\16. They are $135 and $140 respectively.
The tires stick like glue, and are even useable AND LEGAL on the streets.( I am using a set of unshaven tires for daily drivers.) They are like a cat on a carpet. Don't have them shaved unless you are really serious. The shaving actually makes them last longer (even with the 2\32 shaved off) IF you are going to really heat them up. I think that in your situation, the extra tread will translate into longer life. With the occational drivers school, and a few autocrosses, you can expect up to 10,000 miles wear. Not bad for a tire that is basically a half slick. I usually have BFG shave the tires before they ship them, because I am serious about grip and do heat up the tires.
They need to be heat cycled. After mounting them , heat them up moderately, by doing some spirited left and right canyon driving (a cloverleaf will only heat up the outside edges of the outside tires). After about 1 hour of breaking them in, take off the wheels, and let them _cure_. They will last MUCH longer if you do this. After 24 hours, they are ready for some HARD driving. You will not believe how sticky they are! Tires preasures are lower than you would normally run. I usually run 31 in front, and 34 in the rear. Too low and they have rollover, too high and they won't stick as well. There is a great deal of dialogue about the use of R1's on the autocross net, if you are really interested.
To: majordomo@autox.team.net, message ax-subsribe
I did my first drivers school on my Michelin MXX3's. For street tires, they are as sticky and _high performance_ as any tire made (here goes another thread. There is great debate about who makes the best high performance tire). Believe me, there is NO comparison between street tires and _race_ tires! By the way, Yokohama also makes streetable _race_ tires, but the bias is more towards _street_ and away from _race_. Anyway, I did my first drivers school on my Michelins, and what a mistake that was! In one long weekend, I put at least 50% wear on them, and they screamed and slid and pushed all the way thru the school. You will hate what serious cornering does to your street tires. In the long run, I believe that it will cost you more to run your street tires into the ground on the track than it will cost to buy extra rims and track tires. Plus, you simply will not find the real limits of your car, because your wimpy street tires will be your weak link. I don't mean to imply that Michelin MXX3's , or Dunlop 8000's, or Perrelli PZeros, or whatever, are _wimpy_ for street use, but you will not believe the difference between really, really hard street driving and TRACK driving. It is like the difference between a parking lot and a freeway.
Drive safely, drive fast, drive invisibly,
Carl Buckland
95 M3
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PREASSURExxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
I now use 34 lbs front and back. That is where I start, and when they heat up, I let out air until they are 34 again. Get a GOOD tire preassure gauge to make this job a pleasant one. The one from Griot's Garage is worth the $40 that they charge.
Put a little shoe polish on the side walls, right on the edge of your tread. See what rollover you are getting after a few laps. If you are rolling over too much, put in more air. If the shoe polish is still all there, you may not have too much air preassure. Just use common sense to make your judgement.
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The original equipment jack is worthless. Get a floor jack for changing tires. The one at Sears for only $39 will do the job. Griots has one for about $400, but unless you race and change tires 20 times a week like I do, it isn't worth it. But DO get a floor jack.
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They are DOT legal. If not shaved, they are "ok" in the rain. If shaved, they are basically slicks. They are rough riding, and are taller than the stock MXX3's. They do corner like crazy, so I think they are a lot of fun as street tires.
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Not "necessary" for R1's, but really helps. If your car is lowered, you will automatically have some negative camber. you can also adjust for neg camber on the LTW (I think, but am not sure). Shims on the lower stut mounts work, but BE SURE to use very strong bolts (10.6 or harder), and then use 2 heavy duty washers. Korman also sells a shim set. Dinan sells camber plates at 3 and 4 negative degrees.
Enough for now. Good luck!
Carl
Carl Buckland
1000 Boston Bldg
Nine Exchange Place
Salt Lake City, Utah 84111
801-531-6686
Fax 531-6690
E Mail buckland@alinc.com