Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 02:18:02 -1000 (HT) From: "ROGER HALL: HNL M.E. GROUP" <ROGER_H_at_verifone.com> Subject: On changing to OME shocks/springs

Some of you requested that I provide feedback on my efforts to upgrade my '91RR shocks and springs to OME.

Besides changing the springs and shocks, I also replaced the front brake rotors, and front and rear pads...but I digress.

For those of you who are interested, read on.... I'll start with my impression of the ride improvements from this effort, then follow with a brief overview of the process itself.

You should probably consider changing your shocks and springs if:

  1. You think your RR handles more like a walrus with wheels rather than a truck.
  2. At least one member of your family gets seasick during every outing.
  3. You find yourself yelling 'thar she blows' for no good reason while driving

    your range rover.

  4. You're thinking of buying training wheels for your range rover. Just in

    case....

  5. You're afraid of going on a three-hour tour after naming your range rover

    'Minnow'.

In short, if you don't like the way your range rover handles, you should probably consider upgrading at least your shocks if not both your shocks and springs.

OME shocks and springs (or Bilstein shocks and OME springs), in my opinion, should be original equipment on all range rovers. In my case, the upgrade resulted in the beast handling the way it's supposed to both on and off-road. It didn't create a harsh on-street ride. Nor have I noticed any loss of articulation off-road. It just handles the way an expensive 4WD truck SHOULD feel, and it should feel better than my old $4,500 rust bucket blazer did.

Keep in mind that I got this impression after upgrading a '91 Range Rover with only 56K miles on it.

The process took me about 10 man-hours. I don't know if this time is reasonable. It helps to have the right tools and the brain to go along with it, I admit.

Tools needed:

This is off the top of my head:

Sockets needed: 14, 16,17, and 19mm
Breaker bar
10" extension (minimum)
floor jack
jackstands
5-6mm open wrench
torque wrench
spring compressor

I'm not prepared to give you a detailed step-by-step process. But I would like to suggest the following:

  1. Plan to use a spring compressor. I don't see how anyone can do this job

    without it unless they're built like Arnold Schwarzenneger. I bought a spring compressor from NAPA for $US50. Worth the money.

  2. Take advantage of the floor jack when you are compressing the old springs

    prior to removal.

  3. Make sure you put the right springs in the right locations.

    Each spring is different, and luckily, each spring is clearly marked -- drivers side is DS, passenger side PS. The odd number springs go on the front, the even on the rear.

  4. You will need to compress the supplied polyurethane bushings into the

    rear shocks. I used a bench vise with good results. If you don't have adequate tools, don't spend too much time on it -- just take it to a mechanic and get it done in the few minutes it takes. I'm told it will save you a couple of hours of aggravation and you will most likely fail. Unless your first name is Arnold, that is.

Hope this helps.

Roger Hall
'91RR

Date: Wed, 03 Sep 1997 13:24:20 -1000 (HT) From: "ROGER HALL: HNL M.E. GROUP" <ROGER_H_at_verifone.com> Subject: OME shocks and springs

Early this morning, I sent an email providing new spring assembly tips. These are two more tips I forgot to mention to help aid assembly of the springs into your RR (or Discovery).

  1. Make sure that you orient the rear springs with the wider-spaced coils on the bottom. That way you will be able to gain access to the bottom bracket with its two screws located INSIDE the coils.
  2. When you compress the new rear springs, locate the spring compressors so that you will be able to position the lowest spring coil relative to the bottom bracket. They should be 90 degrees relative to the lowest coil.

Hope this helps.

Roger Hall
'91RR