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Contents:
Message Digest Contents
msg Sender Lines Subject 1 Atul Chhabra <atul_at_Basit.COM> 46 [not specified] 2 Chuque Henry <ChuqueH_at_isco.com> 14 My New Defender!!!
3 "J. Nielsen" <cnielsen_at_u.washingt 16 Re: vibration 4 "Tony V. Sawyer" <tvs_at_hydrogeolog 33 Re: Land Rover Discovery Tire Pressure?
5 Chris Petite <cpetite_at_cov.com> 16 Re: Misfiring and catalytic converters -Reply -Reply 6 caloccia_at_senie.com 24 LRO list Web Archives /// Any interesting Mendo or southern LR events soon ?
7 "barnett childress" <barnett=chil 13 re: My New Defender!!! 8 Larry Michelon <kismet2_at_erols.com 16 Re: Land Rover Discovery Tire Pressure? 9 "William T. Owen" <William.Owen_at_N 12 Re: Misfiring and catalytic converters -Reply -Reply 10 "barnett childress" <barnett=chil 13 Ck. eng. light/code 68 update
11 Don Herrero <don_at_sechq.com> 23 New Head Unit 12 "Lord, David." <lordd_at_bp.com> 27 RE: My New Defender!!!
13 "Pittman, William" <William.Pittm 22 RE: Land Rover Discovery Tire Pressure? 14 Thomas Proctor <luckyjoe_at_ptd.net> 16 Land Rover Discovery Tire Pressure? 15 David Sherwood <zaphod_at_bitstream. 19 Dealer Service/Loaners 16 Kevin Kelly <kkelly6788_at_earthlink 17 Emission Warranty 17 Kevin Kelly <kkelly6788_at_earthlink 14 Harrods Range Rover 18 "William T. Owen" <William.Owen_at_N 14 Re: Misfiring and catalytic converters -Reply -Reply 19 "William T. Owen" <William.Owen_at_N 30 Re: Hella Driving Lights 20 Charles Pendleton <cpendlet_at_xis.x 17 Re:Sightings 21 "tchris" <tchris_at_freewwweb.com> 25 Re: My New Defender!!! 22 "Townsend, David (Dave)" <dtowns 28 RE: New Head Unit 23 Rob Smith <rob_at_archenland.demon.c 11 re: Performance Heads Electric Fans & Modified Electrics 24 "Jim Sailer" <sailer_at_srv.net> 21 Re: D90 Hd Top 25 "Juha Saarinen" <juha_saarinen_at_em 26 Misfiring and catalytic converters 26 "Juha Saarinen" <juha_saarinen_at_em 17 Mileage...
27 debrown_at_srp.gov 23 My New Defender!!! 28 Mcd0123 <Mcd0123_at_aol.com> 14 Fuel tanks in D90's 29 Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net> 23 Re: Land Rover Discovery Tire Pressure? 30 Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net> 20 RE: New Head Unit 31 Lodelane <Lodelane_at_aol.com> 18 Powder Coating
32 "Pittman, William" <William.Pittm 21 RE: Fuel tanks in D90's 33 "Rick Larson" <rlarson_at_vineyard.m 18 Re: Fuel tanks in D90's 34 "Barge, John" <jbarge_at_bechtel.com 16 RE: Question on shock lengths for 2" of lift? 35 Robert Kolander <kolanrj_at_mail.sta 14 RE: Fuel tanks in D90's -Reply
36 MikeStodd <MikeStodd_at_aol.com> 32 Re: Range Rover PS box 37 ALeXaNdE12 <ALeXaNdE12_at_aol.com> 14 Re: Fuel tanks in D90's 38 Robert Kolander <kolanrj_at_mail.sta 18 Re: Fuel tanks in D90's -Reply 39 VizionTeam <VizionTeam_at_aol.com> 22 Bouncing Electric Door Lock Actuator
40 Will Jansen <wjansen_at_worldnet.att 16 Re: Bouncing Electric Door Lock Actuator 41 "Pittman, William" <William.Pittm 16 safari gard vs arb 42 "Pittman, William" <William.Pittm 12 catalytic rattle 43 Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net> 33 Re: Bouncing Electric Door Lock Actuator 44 "Rick Larson" <rlarson_at_vineyard.m 18 Re: safari gard vs arb 45 Garret Scott <scottgs_at_usit.net> 113 Repost: Range Rover Parts Numbers from Beck/Arnley 46 "Mark Talbot" <rangerover_at_top.mon 26 RE: safari gard vs arb 47 "Ian & Sally LEE" <misks_at_pirie.mt 36 Re: A firewall crack and discovery tdi cam belt
48 GElam30092 <GElam30092_at_aol.com> 12 Billing '98? 49 GElam30092 <GElam30092_at_aol.com> 80 Jim Allen and his opinion on tire pressure, kind of long... sorry! 50 "Dave & Cheryl Gomes" <gomes1_at_net 33 Hylomar and plugs 51 Jeff Goldman <roverboy_at_gis.net> 35 Along the subject of MPG... 52 ALeXaNdE12 <ALeXaNdE12_at_aol.com> 25 Re: Along the subject of MPG... 53 Jim Pace <paces_at_iea.com> 20 electric fans...are they worth it? 54 jbauden_at_ix.netcom.com (John Baude 11 Re: locker & drive lines work(Rick). 55 Jeff Goldman <roverboy_at_gis.net> 62 Re: electric fans...are they worth it? 56 "G.Donaldson" <donald_at_eis.net.au> 11 Transfer case 57 "Lord, David." <lordd_at_bp.com> 51 RE: New Head Unit 58 "Lord, David." <lordd_at_bp.com> 26 RE: Fuel tanks in D90's
59 "Barry & Beth O'Mahony" <bomahon_at_ 21 Re: Discovery Commerical 60 Thomas Tickel <discover_at_crystal.c 22 Re: Plug Leads 3.5 EFi Motor 61 "Ron Beckett" <hillman_at_bigpond.co 23 Brake lights
62 Autoconv <Autoconv_at_aol.com> 12 Re: locker & drive lines work(Rick). 63 Autoconv <Autoconv_at_aol.com> 16 Re: Transfer case 64 Autoconv <Autoconv_at_aol.com> 14 Re: Bouncing Electric Door Lock Actuator
65 "Pittman, William" <William.Pittm 20 RE: Fuel tanks in D90's 66 "Pittman, William" <William.Pittm 23 RE: safari gard vs arb 67 "Pittman, William" <William.Pittm 21 RE: Along the subject of MPG... 68 "Pittman, William" <William.Pittm 15 defender lights 69 "Chris Dillard"<cdillard_at_Aholdusa 18 Re: defender lights 70 "Pittman, William" <William.Pittm 24 RE: defender lights 71 "Chris Dillard"<cdillard_at_Aholdusa 10 RE: defender lights
72 "tchris" <tchris_at_freewwweb.com> 30 Re: D90 Hd Top 73 LndRvr SC <LndRvrSC_at_aol.com> 16 Re: Misfiring and catalytic converters 74 "Chris Dillard"<cdillard_at_Aholdusa 16 Re: Misfiring and catalytic converters 75 Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net> 22 Re: Misfiring and catalytic converters
Subject: Re: Misfiring and catalytic converters -Reply
From: Atul Chhabra <atul_at_Basit.COM>
Date: 08 Jan 1998 10:02:37 -0500
Chris,
Thanks for the info. I have been experiencing a rattling and resonating kind of sound from under the disco when driving on a rough road. The dealer has looked at just about everything under the car. They have replaced a muffler heat shield, tightened muffler mountings, tightened brake dust guards, replaced the rear shock bushings, ... Everytime they tell me the problem is fixed. But of course it isn't. When the rains stop, I will get under the disco and inspect the catalytic converter for rattles. (Yes, it's been rainy and foggy in New York for the last three days. We have hardly seen any snow this winter.) Hope I can trace the problem.
--Atul Chhabra
'95 disco
atul_at_basit.com
Chris> Atul:
Chris> I had to replace the catalytic converter (y-pipe) on my 92 Chris> RR earlier this year. My understanding is that you will Chris> *hear* if there is a problem. In my case it was a a gradual Chris> and then near-constant rattle at idle and low speed. At Chris> first I thought the rattle came from the engine, but I Chris> eventually traced the sound by using a big screwdriver as a Chris> stethescope to the right hand converter. The rattle (pieces Chris> of loose catalyst) got progresssively louder and more Chris> annoying. After balking at dealer price quotes and being Chris> turned away at local (MD/DC/VA) Midas shops, I ordered the Chris> new y-pipe from Special Interest Car Parts (best price by Chris> several hundred dollars) and changed the pipe myself. Took Chris> a hell of a long time since I'm only learning the nuances Chris> of rover repair, but I did the job right and saved enough Chris> money to turn my attentions and rapidly diminishing Chris> checking account to the leaking radiator, the faulty abs Chris> brake pump, the oil pressure warning light... etc etc
Chris> Love my Rover
Chris> C. Petite Middleburg, VA
Yes yes yes!! I just picked it up last night and I absolutely love it! It's everything I hoped for and I am very happy. I have to admit, it was a cold, noisy, gas guzzling trip back... but that's more or less what I was expecting. so no real disappointment. I think I'll be saving up for a fiberglass hard top!
-Q
1995 Red D90 (YES!)
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 08:15:57 -0800 (PST) From: "J. Nielsen" <cnielsen_at_u.washington.edu> Subject: Re: vibration
Ian,
Tell me more about your vibration and work that has been done to fix it. What year and model do you have. I am assuming it is a D-90. I am tired of chasing it and it only seems to get worse every time the dealer puts new parts in it.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Chris
'95 D-90
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 08:29:42 -0800
From: "Tony V. Sawyer" <tvs_at_hydrogeologist.com>
Subject: Re: Land Rover Discovery Tire Pressure?
Mavromatis wrote:
> I was reading the LR manual and it states 26psi for the front and 36psi for
> the back.
> I have all four set to 38psi because I was (is) getting 12mpg on a 98 Disco.
> They were previously set to the 26psi front and 36psi back. Will this harm the
> tires if I put more air in them? The tire says max air is 44psi. Should I put
> more for better mileage?
> Danny
[ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Danny
> 98 Oxford Blue Disco
Danny:
Running pressure that is too high will give you a rougher ride and wear out the center quicker. To determine the optimal tire pressure for a given tire and load, use the chalk line method as follows: 1) Fill the tires to some arbitrarily high pressure (38 psi is good), 2) draw a straight line across the tread of each of the tires (perpendicular to the sidewall), 3) drive in a straight line for ~ 100 feet, 4) examine the chalk lines. If the line is gone only in the middle, the tire is overinflated. Reduce air pressure a couple of psi and try again. If the line is gone only near the edges, the tire is underinflated. Add air and repeat process. If the line is gone altogether, the inflation is good for the load in the vehicle. Write the numbers down for future reference.
Tony Sawyer
'95 Disco "Volante"
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 11:28:49 -0500
From: Chris Petite <cpetite_at_cov.com>
Subject: Re: Misfiring and catalytic converters -Reply -Reply
Atul:
To clarify: my experience with the catalytic rattle is that the sound is loudest at idle when there is significantly more pressure in the exhaust system-- and is not particularly audible at speed or related to how rough the road happens to be. The rattle you describe may not be be related to loose catalyst, then. Hopefully this is the case and you just have to hunt down exactly where metal is unfortunately meeting metal. On my old Bronco, it was a brake line knocking against the frame. Good luck.
Chris
Hi all and Happy New Year,
There was a minor glitch coming into '98, and the presentation of web digests was delayed a couple days, but all seems to be well again.
Was there a Framingham gathering this week, I don't recall seeing anything on it ?
Also, if there are going to be any good mendo trips before March 14th, could one of the left-coasters give me a shout. I've got a free trip on U.ScAIR and flying out to the bay area for the weekend wouldn't suck. (If there are any really interesting trips down South, I might interested too. Some place warmer anyway..)
Ciao,
Bill
PS: ouch ! the 7.50x16 Trac Edges came in at $159 each...plus...
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 98 12:11:38 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%eng%emchop1_at_fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: re: My New Defender!!!
Congrats!!!
Barnett
________ Reply Separator ______
> From: "Chuque Henry" <ChuqueH_at_isco.com>, on 1/8/98 10:55 AM:
[ truncated by list-digester (was 17 lines)]
> 1995 Red D90 (YES!)
> 0
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 12:15:08 -0800
From: Larry Michelon <kismet2_at_erols.com>
Subject: Re: Land Rover Discovery Tire Pressure?
Mavromatis wrote:
> I have all four set to 38psi because I was (is) getting 12mpg on a 98 >Disco. Will this harm the tires if I put more air in them? The tire says >max air is 44psi. Should I put more for better mileage?
More air in the tires will give you a lower rolling resistance and should increase your mileage. Higher pressures may also cause abnormal wear (typically wearing down the middle) and will give you a harsher ride.
Larry Michelon
'89 RR
> I think the regulations about what you can do with your
> catalytic converters vary from state to state, but I do have
> a good friend at the local midas shop here in Mountain View
> California who can replace the units for $100 each plus labour.
The Midas shops in will replace Rover Cats for about the same price.
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 98 12:24:53 -0500
From: "barnett childress" <barnett=childress%eng%emchop1_at_fishbowl02.lss.emc.com>
Subject: Ck. eng. light/code 68 update
Hi all,
Well it turns out that the road speed sensor connected to the transmission
froze up and in turn snapped the speedo cable. Car is at the dealer, (LRMW)
for repair. They had the sensor in stock but not the speedo cable, so they
ordered it yesterday. Of course the wrong cable arrived today :<. Oh well,
should be fixed tomorrow.
Cheers,
Barnett
Vinnie from Crutchfield wrote:
I am also sorry to report that we do not have a wiring harness to integrate you Sony to Land Rover's wiring. Your Land Rover has 2 factory amplifiers, one driving the subs and the other for the rest of the speakers. The amplifiers do accept a speaker level input but, due to the unique nature of the plug configurations you would need to cut off the factory speaker connector and hard wire the speaker outputs of the new radio to the inputs of the factory amps. I wish I had easier solutions for you.
above is an answer i got from Crutchfield. has anyone put an aftermarket head unit into there Disco without re wiring the whole system? is there a FAQ on this topic?
thanks
Don
95 Disco
I think he likes it.
Top work Henry, I hope you enjoy it for years to come.
From: Chuque Henry [SMTP:ChuqueH_at_isco.com]
Sent: 08 January 1998 15:55
To: rro_at_playground.sun.com
Subject: My New Defender!!!
Yes yes yes!! I just picked it up last night and I absolutely love
it!
It's everything I hoped for and I am very happy. I have to admit,
it
was a cold, noisy, gas guzzling trip back... but that's more or less
what I was expecting. so no real disappointment. I think I'll be
saving
up for a fiberglass hard top!
-Q
1995 Red D90 (YES!)
If you do that, you will start to notice that the tire is wearing in the center of the tire. this is due to the fact that the contact is smaller due to the extra air causing the tire to over expand. 44 psi, max, is referring to what it will hold befor you are in danger of blowing it.
William Pittman
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Larry Michelon [SMTP:kismet2_at_erols.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 08, 1998 3:15 PM
> To: rro_at_playground.sun.com
> Subject: Re: Land Rover Discovery Tire Pressure?
[ truncated by list-digester (was 21 lines)]
> Larry Michelon
> '89 RR
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 12:50:59 -0500
From: Thomas Proctor <luckyjoe_at_ptd.net>
Subject: Land Rover Discovery Tire Pressure?
When I picked up our disco 18 months ago, the dealer had them pumped up to 44psi (I think this is the max on the sidewall). Ater that I reduced them to the recommended 26psi front and 36psi rear. Afer 10K miles i noticed a little more wear on the front edges. Now, I usually keep the front a few pounds over 26psi and the rear a few pounds under 36psi.
Keep in mind that this is on road driving, with only the driver inside. I vary the pressure depending on the load (people, dogs, canoe, beer...)
Tom Proctor
96 Disco
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 12:09:18 -0600 (CST) From: David Sherwood <zaphod_at_bitstream.net> Subject: Dealer Service/Loaners
Kind of appropriate timing to the topic of discussion this week...
My wife brought our 97 Disco in for routine service and a couple samll fit and finish problems yesterday morning.
They gave her a loaner to drive (a 95 Audi 90 - pretty nice).
They then called her around 3 and stated that they were unable to start on it yesterday. Mind you, I scheduled this appointment OVER 2 MONTHS ago!
The only saving grace is that we have one of their cars to drive. But is seems kind of silly that they can't even fit in a 15,000k service...
Dave
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 09:42:38 -0800
From: Kevin Kelly <kkelly6788_at_earthlink.net>
Subject: Emission Warranty
Lee wrote:
:How long do the cats usually last, what kind of extended :warranty is available from LR, if any? 50K?
Unless something recently changed the U.S. government makes auto manufacturers warranty all emissions equipment for 6 years-unlimited miles (with exceptions such as crushing stuff off road).
Check your warranty paperwork for details.
Kevin Kelly
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 09:24:21 -0800
From: Kevin Kelly <kkelly6788_at_earthlink.net>
Subject: Harrods Range Rover
:If memory serves me correctly Harrods many years back sold a special :edition Range Rover through their dept. stores. Can anyone verify this?
Harrods did sell a special edition Range Rover, I think it was in the late 70's (I don't have the info here at work) and it had a custom grill with integrated lamp guards.
Kevin Kelly
> > I think the regulations about what you can do with your
> > catalytic converters vary from state to state, but I do have
> > a good friend at the local midas shop here in Mountain View
> > California who can replace the units for $100 each plus labour.
> The Midas shops in will replace Rover Cats for about the same price.
Err, that should be "in Nashville." Sorry, must of forgotten where I lived
>Does anyone know the capacity of a standard RR alternator on running
Hella's. (how many )
I believe the older RRs came stock with a lucas 80 amp. Newer ones have a MM 85 amp alternator I believe. Since hte lucas units do occasionally die :), some older models also have the MM.
I have a rebuilt 80 amp and the only problems I have had are with hella (55/60 watt) headlights, 2 Hella 500 fogs, wipers and front and rear defrosters on at the same time. The defrosters appear to detect the lack of power and don't come on at the same time. I can see the dash lights dim when I hit windows or defrost, too. Of course the alternator will not put out its max power at idle, either.
What I would like to know is how much power the RR uses just running (with and without aircon). Anyone got an idea?
You could then add up all the lights, defrosters, etc and see how much you could run at once. watts/volts =amps, right. So, if my calculations are right, your 1000s are 200 watts, your 550's are 110 watts, your headlights are 120 watts for a total of 430 watts. At 12 volts (should it be 14?) thats about 35 amps. Gotta count all the little 5w side lights, dash lights, plate lights and all too. plus the EFI, wipers, defrost, etc. The 2 extra 550s would add another 9 amps or so.
I was watching the news a few weeks ago and caught a story on the bad snow storms over in the UK. The camera panned out to one of the highways where, through the driving snow, you could make out all the traffic huddled into one plowed lane and crawling at about 5 mph. The story was lengthy, and while it was being broadcast, a Series III came flying around the bend in the unplowed lane plodding along its merry way, one lane over from the bumper to bumper traffic.
It was extremely funny.
-Charlie-
I just finished putting the fiberglass hard top on last night at 2:30 am theres a world of difference, from the soft top. I just hope spring doesn't come to early, after the work involved in putting it on ! Chris "V"
Yes yes yes!! I just picked it up last night and I absolutely love it! It's everything I hoped for and I am very happy. I have to admit, it was a cold, noisy, gas guzzling trip back... but that's more or less what I was expecting. so no real disappointment. I think I'll be saving up for a fiberglass hard top!
-Q
1995 Red D90 (YES!)
Don,
I think it would be wiser to rewire a new head unit when you put it in. The factory unit only has high-level outputs so you need to put in high-low converters to drive any extra amps you want to add on, which degrades the quality of the sound.
If you buy the unit from the Good Guys or Circuit City, they usually
charge
about $50 for installation, plus cost of wiring.
dave.
> ----------
> From: Don Herrero[SMTP:don_at_sechq.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 08, 1998 8:38 AM > To: rro_at_playground.sun.com > Subject: New Head Unit [ truncated by list-digester (was 34 lines)]
> Don
> 95 Disco
I REALLY MUST THANK 'Familyprice' FOR THE 1137K OF SPACE AND TIME THEY HAVE WASTED. DO NOT DO WHAT EVER YOU DID LAST TIME YOU SENT YOUR MAIL. IT COSTS TIME AND MONEY TO DOWNLOAD HERE IN THE UK, AND MUCH OF IT CANNOT BE READ.
Rob
Robert Kolander
Subject: D90 HdTop ?
I have a D110 in idaho where drafts are -20F at times. My D110 has minor leaks as you describe (probably much smaller). I put 1/8 inch thick foam/adhesive backed weather strippting on my doors. I replace it every 2 years. It seems to do the trick.
PS. If you do not have a radiator Muffler and want warmth, I got one from Rovers North and have been super warm and happy (although weather only to -5F so far). I also added 3/8 inch insulation under all floormats, under dash, under seats, etc. (all hidden).
Jim Sailer
93 D110 that is warm and not drafty.
Hi Atul,
>How can one tell if they have a shot catalytic converter? On Christmas
>eve, I was far from home and the disco started running extremely rough
>under load. I called LR road recovery and they told me to drive it if
>possible to my destination which was about a hundred miles away, where
>they arranged for a dealer to check it out on the 26th. Turned out to
>be bad spark plug wires. (The disco had just undergone a cold start
>upgrade. The dealer should have checked the condition of the wires
[ truncated by list-digester (was 12 lines)]
>caused damage to the catalytic converter. What do I look for to
>determine if everything is ok?
Hmmm... to be honest, I don't know. The cats need to be very hot to work (which is why driving around in tall, dry grass with a Disco is a bad idea). I can only imagine that if they're not, they'd get clogged up with residue and create even more backpressure in the exhaust. Not sure though. Think you need a specialist... :-(
Lee,
>Prolly wise. 1/4 tank is what, 23 miles?
>:)
It isn't quite that bad... ~21 litres (83 litre tank), it should go about 100 km or ~65 miles. "Normal" cars would probably go twice as far or longer on the same amount though.
Pers. E-mail: rovernut_at_hotmail.com
> Yes yes yes!! I just picked it up last night and I absolutely love it! > It's everything I hoped for and I am very happy. I have to admit, it > was a cold, noisy, gas guzzling trip back... but that's more or less > what I was expecting. so no real disappointment. I think I'll be saving > up for a fiberglass hard top!
CONGRATULATIONS!!! Now hold onto your wallet (but not too tightly) the fun's about to begin!
Does this mean that your icons will be changing to a D90 instead of a series LR? ;-)
Hi there, I am planning a drive down the Draa Valley in Morocco next
September.
One of my planned pre-trip mods is fitting a larger fuel tank
I need at least 10 extra gallons. Any ideas out there?
Tim McDowell
1991 D90 with single side tank
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 13:52:10 -0500
From: Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net>
Subject: Re: Land Rover Discovery Tire Pressure?
At 12:50 PM 1/8/98 -0500, Thomas Proctor wrote:
>When I picked up our disco 18 months ago, the dealer had them pumped up
>to 44psi (I think this is the max on the sidewall). Ater that I reduced
>them to the recommended 26psi front and 36psi rear. Afer 10K miles i
>noticed a little more wear on the front edges. Now, I usually keep the
>front a few pounds over 26psi and the rear a few pounds under 36psi.
There's a reason LR recommends the front to rear pressure differential, folks. Softer front end increases understeer, less likely for the vehicle to develop massive oversteer during an accident avoidance manouver or quick turn. Massive oversteer brings the rump around and then over you go.
I run 30 front, 36 back on my LWB and that works fine. I'll take the trade off in extra front tire wear for better (safer) handling and a more comfortable ride.
Lee
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 14:59:53 -0500
From: Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net>
Subject: RE: New Head Unit
At 01:22 PM 1/8/98 -0600, Townsend, David (Dave) wrote:
>I think it would be wiser to rewire a new head unit when you put it in.
>The factory unit only has high-level outputs so you need to put in
>high-low converters to drive any extra amps you want to add on, which
>degrades the quality of the sound.
>If you buy the unit from the Good Guys or Circuit City, they usually
>charge
>about $50 for installation, plus cost of wiring.
I'm not sure I'd have them do the install...its not rocket science, but on the other hand, it takes a single crossed wire (or less) to bring down a Lucas system...
Lee
Just got a new Eastwood's Catalog. They are now offering a rig for do-ityourself powder coating called HotCoat. Kit goes for $150.00 and extra colors/refills are $12.00. Is a three step process - strip the part, electrostatic powder coat, bake in an ELECTRIC oven at 400 degrees Farenheit for 10 minutes (says in the ad not to use an oven used for preparing food). Anyway, for those interested, there it is - no connections with Eastwood's on my part. However, if someone does get the rig and tries it, please let the lists know how you fair. Eastwood's 1-800-345-1178 US/1-800-820-9042 Canada Product Number 1980
Larry Smith
Chester, VA
who posted recently about fitting the extra fuel under the passenger seat? It looked like a realy nice job and I think that I would like to steal your idea. Can you also post the web addr?
William Pittman
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mcd0123 [SMTP:Mcd0123_at_aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 08, 1998 3:34 PM
> To: rro_at_playground.sun.com
> Subject: Fuel tanks in D90's
[ truncated by list-digester (was 18 lines)]
> Tim McDowell
> 1991 D90 with single side tank
Run a NAS rear tank. We don't get side takes on this side of the ocean. It has a capacity of about 15 gallons. The filler will be the hard part.
Good luck
-Rick
--
Richard Larson
MIPS Technology Inc., rlarson_at_mti.sgi.com Silicon Graphics Corp. (415) 933-7665
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 13:48:15 -0800
From: "Barge, John" <jbarge_at_bechtel.com>
Subject: RE: Question on shock lengths for 2" of lift?
OME makes a long travel, remote canister shock for all late model LRs. I don't know if they are in the US but you can get them here in OZ for about AUS$400 (~USD$255) a pop. I don't know the compressed and extended numbers, but I could find out if you want.
Later,
John Barge
jbarge_at_bechtel.com
Brisbane, Qld
'91 Disco
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 15:51:16 -0600
From: Robert Kolander <kolanrj_at_mail.startribune.com>
Subject: RE: Fuel tanks in D90's -Reply
Jeffrey Berry has the nice webpage that gives specific instructions/photos on how to install a series tank in a D90 under the passenger seat.
it's located at:
http://websites.i2020.net/~jaberry/Jeffs.htm
Bob k.
'95 D90
Tim
The rebuild can be done in a day, providing you have everything you need to hand, and it all goes according to plan!! The article I referred to is in the July 1996 LRO, I could possibly scan and mail to you direct if neccessary. Taking the box out is easy, but it is fairly heavy and awkward to manouvre out from under the vehicle. On the bench, getting the drop arm off can be difficult, you need a puller - or a visit to a friendly garage with the right tackle. I was lucky to remove mine with a cheap two legged puller. Dismantling and rebuilding the box is straightforward, but you must have a clean area to do it, and have washed the outside of the box off with kerosene first. Any sort of dirt inside the box will kill it very swiftly. Again I was lucky, in that the internals of my box did not show any appreciable wear (even after over 100K miles), so I was able to replace the seals and put it all back together. Th missing seals that I referred to in my previous post were on the spool valve. I suspect that if I had gone to a steering box specialist I might have been able to buy these separately, but I needed the vehicle back on the road quickly so decided to chance it without replacing them. Costs are about 10 UKP for the three bolt box or 30 UKP for the four bolt box (count the bolts on the box top cover, around the adjuster) plus a few litres of ATF. When compared to 150 UKP for a rebuilt exchange item, I think it is worth a go. Let me know if you need more detail.
Mike Stoddard
'86 RR with Mazda Diesel Power
How far is the average range on a D90? and what kind of mileage figures do you all get? I am thinking of buying one for my son, but the gas is a big factor.
Alex
95 County LWB
87 560SL
92 500SL
97 A8 4.2
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 18:50:09 -0600
From: Robert Kolander <kolanrj_at_mail.startribune.com>
Subject: Re: Fuel tanks in D90's -Reply
I average between 12 and 15 (w/the wind).
I do at least 50 highway miles a day, w/some city driving added daily, and end up re-fueling at least 3x's a week. w/premium, that gets to be spendy!
The beast is definitely thirsty. w/the 15.5 gallon tank, the local gas station is ALWAYS happy to see me.
Great reason for an extra tank, but I haven't done it - yet.
Bob K.
'95 D90
My 1990 Rangie's right rear door has been acting up for a while such that when I lock the doors with the key, the right rear actuator pulls the lock down and then immediately unlocks the door. All of the other three doors and the rear hatch lock properly. I ordered a new actuator and installed it. No fixee problem. Now I'm assuming it has something to do with the central door locking relay (or whatever it uses).
Does anyone have experience with this one. I hate electrical problems. Once again I bow to the Prince of Darkness' evil powers to humble my intellect.
Thanks,
Mike Hickman
BTW, if you ever want to get into my truck, just open the right rear door. I don't keep anything inside anyway. Maybe I should just leave the whole thing unlocked all the time.
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 20:39:06 -0500
From: Will Jansen <wjansen_at_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Bouncing Electric Door Lock Actuator
VizionTeam wrote:
> BTW, if you ever want to get into my truck, just open the right rear door. I
> don't keep anything inside anyway. Maybe I should just leave the whole thing
> unlocked all the time.
Uhh, where do you live?? Just kidding. I just got my Locked RR broken into, but unfortunately I had a few good things for the taking. They got my CB, heheh.
Will Jansen
88 Range Rover - Nothing valuable inside now at all
I am in the position where I need to order my new ull bar. I am looking at either the arb or the safari gard. (or custom) As I see it, each has it's good side and bad side. the arb is HUGE(god) but is cuts down on your approach angle by several inches. However, it should be able to smash through most things with the exception of rocks. The Safari gard has a great approach angle, increases stock by several inches but does not seem to be as aggresive as the arb. Do any of you guys have any comments <--- stupid question :)
William Pittman
I am not sure if this helps, I have not read the posts too clearly but.... I have had roblems in the past with the fuel running too rich and causing the catalytic conv to break down. Also, once this starts to hapen your mufler will slowly(or not so slowly) start to 'burn up'.
William Pittman
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 22:16:24 -0500
From: Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net>
Subject: Re: Bouncing Electric Door Lock Actuator
At 08:17 PM 1/8/98 EST, VizionTeam wrote:
>My 1990 Rangie's right rear door has been acting up for a while such that
when
>I lock the doors with the key, the right rear actuator pulls the lock down
and
>then immediately unlocks the door. All of the other three doors and the rear
>hatch lock properly. I ordered a new actuator and installed it. No fixee
>problem. Now I'm assuming it has something to do with the central door
>locking relay (or whatever it uses).
>Does anyone have experience with this one. I hate electrical problems. Once
>again I bow to the Prince of Darkness' evil powers to humble my intellect.
Mike,
When you figure it out, let me know. I replaced a LF actuator on my Range Rover about 6 weeks ago and it's faulted exactly once since. Which means I didn't diagnose it properly the first time...
Lee
Lee Levitt
wheelman _at_ shore.net
Director, Systems Marketing, News Internet Services -
http://www.newsinternet.com
Webmaster, NeedhamOnline - http://www.NeedhamOnline.com
and http://www.wheelman.com (some cool stuff for gearheads like me!)
1995 Range Rover County LWB, 60K, member Bay State Rovers
1990 Audi 200T, 82K
1987 Wicked Fat Chance, 1981 Condor
I've banged each equally, actually the SG much more since the ARB sits in my back yard. No complaints about stength for either. On thing to think about. At some point you'd like your bumper to give a bit. It is a whole lot cheaper than a frame.
-Rick
--
Richard Larson
MIPS Technology Inc., rlarson_at_mti.sgi.com Silicon Graphics Corp. (415) 933-7665
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 23:05:33 -0500
From: Garret Scott <scottgs_at_usit.net>
Subject: Repost: Range Rover Parts Numbers from Beck/Arnley
Truncated you say? I hate it when that happens.
Here is the pertinant info for those on the Digest. I apologize to those real-time readers who will have to suffer through this again.
I recently sent an E-mail to Beck/Arnley to inquire as to the availability and part numbers for Range Rover brake calipers, I had heard that they were available, but my local NAPA store couldn't find the part numbers and said I was just out of luck. I also asked why they do not handle more parts for Land Rovers such as Brake Shoes etc. Well, here is a reprint of the response I got:
Subject: Range Rover parts inquiry
Date: Fri, 02 Jan 98 12:10
From: BOOKED_at_bwchqnt.echlin.com (Booker, David)
To: scottgs_at_usit.net
CC: REEVEJ_at_bwchqnt.echlin.com
Garret,
Thanks for your interest in our parts. Yes, we carry the brake pads
and
calipers you are looking for. The specific units are outlined below.
Regarding your other questions: Beck/Arnley Worldparts Corp. sells in
North America only. The relative scarcity of Range Rovers in this
market
I agree that your Range Rover has a GM-derived engine. Of course, as
an
import parts supplier we don't sell that many parts for GM's either.
On
the other hand, in addition to brake parts we DO SELL filters, wheel
bearings, wheel cylinders, master cylinders, u-joints, water pumps,
ignition components, spark plugs, starters, alternators, oil pressure
switches, temp sending units, and a few other things for your Range
Rover, so don't give up on us entirely. Your local NAPA store should
have access to all of these parts if they carry our line (not all of
them
do yet). Our catalog lists your vehicle under "Rover", which may have
caused the initial difficulty in finding your parts.
I hope this helps.
David Booker,
Catalog Manager
Beck/Arnley Worldparts Corp.
P. S. We do have more parts for Yugos than Range Rovers, but at one
tenth the cost, there were a few more of them sold. Besides, Yugos
are
basically old Fiats, and we already had most of the parts in the line.
We don't catalog any parts for Ladas, even though some of them
probably
also fit old Fiats.
The parts you are looking for are:
Caliper, Front left: 076-0907
Caliper, Front right: 076-0908
Caliper, Rear left: 076-0911
Caliper, Rear right: 076-0912
For pads, we offer you some choices
Brake Pad, front:
082-1401 (O.E. pad material)
086-1401 (non-asbestos pad material)
088-1401D (Axxis brand pad in O.E. material)
088-1401M (Axxis brand pad in metallic material)
Brake pad, rear:
082-1454 (O.E. pad material)
086-1454 (non-asbestos pad material)
087-1454 (Semi-metallic pad material)
088-1454D (Axxis pad in O.E. pad material)
088-1454D (Axxis pad in metallic material)
I do hope any commercial content in this post does not offend anyone or is inappropriate for the list. I just feel it would be helpful for those of us seeking alternative parts sources for our Land Rover vehicles. I have no connection with any of the companies involed.
I would like to thank Mr. David Booker, Beck/Arnley Catalog Manager for
the permission to reprint this information, and for his prompt and very
helpful response. I must also confess that in my original E-mail to
Beck/Arnley that I was a bit antagonistic towards the US aftermarket
parts industry for their lack of attention to Land Rover's products over
the last 50 years. For example we can get brake shoes for a Yugo or a
Russian Lada at several local parts stores, but ask about brakes for a
good ole Land Rover?
ain't that a Tie-Ota? ERrrrrrrrrrrrr...
If you are going for either of the bars, you should consider beefing up the front end springs. If you upgrade to something like the OME kit then you may indeed get a lift. You dont say what vehicle you have, but I have seen both arb and sf in action on a lot of LR's, approach angle doesn't seem to be a problem. Come to think of it, you would have to be somewhere fairly tight to get caught out like that.
I have an ARB on my RR the reasons for getting it where simple, I didn't want to wait 3 months for SG to build one. I have had no problem with restricted approach angle.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Pittman, William [mailto:William.Pittman_at_fmr.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 08, 1998 8:20 AM
> To: rro_at_playground.sun.com
> Subject: safari gard vs arb
[ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
> comments <--- stupid question :)
> William Pittman
Jeff
Change the belt ASAP as if it snaps $$$$$$
Local dealer replaced mine on my other 96 discovery Tdi at 50k service free
Then I got a 97 discovery Tdi and broke a belt at 7.5k LR Aust replaced the motor but it leaves a bad taste in the mouth because I would hate to have to pay for the damage caused everything they looked at was damaged
Also check to see that they have done all the upgrades there has been quite significant changes to idler pulleys and other parts to stop belt movement and wear
Should not take a full day to change belt I was quoted 3 Hours Max
Ian lee
97 Blue Discovery Tdi
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeffrey B. Robinson <jeffreyr_at_d130.aone.net.au>
Date: Friday, 9 January 1998 8:29
Subject: A firewall crack and discovery tdi cam belt
>Hi
>Has anyone had dealings with LandRover Australia regarding a cracked
>firewall? Upon reading the recent info on the CSO list I checked my
>firewall and sure enough there is a 1x50mm vertical crack in the firewall
>above the driver's side chassis mount. The vehicle is a '95 tdi, 110
[ truncated by list-digester (was 35 lines)]
>Jeff Robinson
>Discovery 300tdi 1995
Is anyone planning to go to Northampton for the Billing show in July? It would be nice to arrange a meeting place to get together for a beer or three!
Later...
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ
A little over a year ago, I had a discussion with Jim Allen regarding tire pressures. Specifically, we were talking about the differences between the British approach compared to us 'mericans.
<<I have all four set to 38psi because I was (is) getting 12mpg on a 98 Disco. They were previously set to the 26psi front and 36psi back. Will this harm the tires if I put more air in them? The tire says max air is 44psi. Should I put more for better mileage? >>
This post reminded me of one of a note from Jim that I never posted here. Jim is fairly well respected, and while the info here is nothing that most of us have figured out, I thought it was worth repeating here. I hope this info is of use!
>From Jim Allen:
" I've driven up Old Tincup a number of times with essentially
factory pressures. As you may know, I work for LRNA one their Driver
Training Team and during the three (so far) Great Divide Expeditions and
two (sor far) Colorado Driving Academys, we take students through Old
Tincup and the like in current model LR products, including Discoverys. We
are somewhat constrained by liability stuff as to the tire pressures we
use.The following, of course, is my own opinion.
I never run 36psi in the rear unless I need a full load capacity. Tire pressure needed is dependent upon load, and 36 psi, the tires max, is for a maximum GVW load. 28-30 psi is a good pressure on the rear for normal highway, moderate loads and unchallenging four-wheeling. The std front pressure is OK in these conditions.
In places where you need a bigger footprint, with a moderate load, 22 front, 24-26 rear works ok. These pressures can actually take you down the highway reasonably OK for short distances and moderate speeds.
You can go as low as 15psi for a maximum footprint in very hairy terrain but remember that your ground clearance is lessened slightly the lower the pressure. The tires are more vulnerable to rock damage at lower pressures, especially the weak sidewalled Michelins. BFGs are very tough. Don't drive the hiway at these very low pressures
How low you go depends upon terrain. If you are getting along fine at a given pressure, there's no need for a change. In certain types of rock, you will find your tires scrabbling for traction and dropping the pressure will increase the footprint. Sand is self explanatory - go to the lowest pressure for max floatation.
With regards to the differences between the Brit and American views, the difference is partly terrain, partly the tires and partly attitude. We found that the British LR instructors had a completely different midset that us. The gist of it is that you adjust to the prevailing conditions. What works at Eastnor Castle, may not work on Tincup and vice versa.
Tires - the tires used on LRs, mostly Michelins, have fairly weak sidewalls. This partly accounts for the plush ride. By comparison, the BFG tires are nearly bulletproof! and can handle sidewall impacts that would send a Michelin to the great tire graveyard. The weaker tires need more pressure to avoid damage.
Attitude - the Brits, in general, are slow to change anything that has worked in the past but eventually they come around!
Specifically, the Michelins on your Disco are a bit tougher than the previous tires, especially the older Range Rovers 244 variety.
Jim Allen"
Background: We were talking about tire pressures and some comments that Nick Dimbley (sp?) had as our group started a trip during the 1996 National LR Rally. Nick was of the opinion that lowering tire pressure wasn't worth the gain. (BTW, the book that Nick and the other guy just had published, "LR: A Tough 50 Years" has a group picture of us on top of Mt. Antero (sp?). If you have a magnifying glass, you might even make out a few of us!
Jim remarks about Brits isn't to be taken as being critical and I hope no one takes it wrong. Jim is a great guy and would never offend anyone. Me.. I'm a different story! As Rick Larson will confirm, also a little slow to learn. (Rick: no more running boards!! I beat 'em off trying to keep up with you... unsuccessfully I might add!)
Take care,
Gerry Elam
PHX AZ
Thanks for all the very serious and polite suggestions for where I could put the two plugs found in my toolkit :^). All that holiday cheer must have taken some of the sarcasm out of you all. But the weather here has turned to some kind of monsoon so I haven't had a chance to look for wading plug holes in the bell housing. Maybe I'd better if we get any more rain. Dave Brown do you use the silicone on the diff and T-case plugs? Thanks too for comments on stainless bolts in axle flanges. It was just a thought but I didn't think galling would be a problem due to mating to the steel axle and iron threads. I thought galling was only a problem for stainless on stainless. At least that's the reason custom gunmakers don't build tight slide-to-frame fits on all-stainless 45s, they use a steel slide if they need a tight (read-accurate) slide to frame fit because the stainless won't gall against the steel slide. Oh well, should probably move this discussion off the list and come back with the end result.
Got the Hi-lift mounted cleanly inside this week, upright behind the driver's seat as per LRW 12/97 except mine is rotated 90 degrees (handle is toward rear) With a few strategically placed o-rings, bolt through the top of the bar, and strap around the lifter mechanism and diagonal roll cage brace (standard 97 D90 SW internal roll bar), there is not a peep or trace of a rattle from it even over severe bumps like railroad tracks. I can even get it out through the front if the rear is loaded - bonus
Thanks for your help and opinions,
Dave Gomes
97 D90 SW
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 00:10:20 -0500
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy_at_gis.net>
Subject: Along the subject of MPG...
What do you think is the main source of "excessive" fuel consumption with
the LR V8. I consistently see Defender mileage lower than Range Rover or
Disco mileage. Similarly, there is an inconsistency between mileage for the
Disco and the Range Rover.
Realising that fuel consumption is based a great deal on driving style,
let's throw that one away and concentrate on the other possibilities. The
engine just consumes a lot. The drivetrain consumes a certain amount of
power depending on gearbox ratios, type of transmission, etc. Weight. And,
wind resistance.
I can consistently achieve 19-21 mpg with our Range Rover Hunter on the
highway between the speeds of 65 and 70 mph. At 55-60 the truck consumes
more than that, and over 70, consumption figures start to go up. What are
Defenders getting in this speed range?
The Defender weighs quite a bit less than the Range Rover, but I'm
assuming it has more wind resistance. Is it enough of a difference to lower
fuel consumption ratings even though weight is so much less? Or does it
have more to do with transmissions?
What about the 4.0L vs. the 3.9L?
Why aren't Discos getting similar consumption figures compared to the
Range Rovers. At some point, the varying lines utilized the same engine,
chassis, and gearbox (I think, I may be wrong). If the figures are
different, what's causing that difference. Weight? Wind resistance? Curious...
Jeff G.
Boston, MA
1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover - needing frame
1990 Range Rover County - hybrid fodder (ask about parts, especially body)
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD - the anomaly, albeit a competently quick 4x4
1991 Range Rover Hunter - basically OME-ified
I think you got a Range Rover badged geo metro or something. I never even thought it was possible to get those kinds of MPG figures on a Range Rover. Good for you!
I think it mostly depends on vehicle condition, terrain, altitude, and most importantly driving style as you metioned.
Alex
95 County LWB
97 Audi A8 4.2
92 500SL
87 560SL
In a message dated 98-01-09 00:08:22 EST, you write:
<< I can consistently achieve 19-21 mpg with our Range Rover Hunter on the highway between the speeds of 65 and 70 mph. At 55-60 the truck consumes more than that, and over 70, consumption figures start to go up. What are Defenders getting in this speed range? >>
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 1998 21:48:18 -0800
From: Jim Pace <paces_at_iea.com>
Subject: electric fans...are they worth it?
Thanks to all for the advice about my Nokian 10 C's. I guess I will keep the XPC's in the garage for summer use.
BTW, I get between 13 and 18 mpg, the best when I have long highway/offroad combo trips, the worst representing in town driving. Thank goodness I live 4 minutes from work! On a bicycle, that is, but 10 minutes by car.
I sure would like a definative answer concerning the benefits of installing an electrical cooling fan (i.e. Kenlowe or an American unit) to replace the stock fan. Any experience out there? The fan makers claim a 3 mpg increase. That's approximately 1000 gallons of gas per 100 k miles going from 16 to 19 mpg. Or +_ $1500. Is it worth the hassle? Any thoughts on wear and tear on other components? Noise or lack of? What make is best? The archives haven't told me much.
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 1998 23:38:50 -0600 (CST) From: jbauden_at_ix.netcom.com (John Baudendistel) Subject: Re: locker & drive lines work(Rick).
I'm looking for a reputable source for some drive line & or locker work. You thoughts much appreciated. Really enjoyed the Mud weekend. I think the the rear disconnects worked well on the water berms.
John & Laurel
96 Disco
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 02:51:12 -0500
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy_at_gis.net>
Subject: Re: electric fans...are they worth it?
At 09:48 PM 1/8/98 -0800, you wrote:
>100 k miles going from 16 to 19 mpg. Or +_ $1500. Is it worth the
>hassle? Any thoughts on wear and tear on other components? Noise or
>lack of? What make is best? The archives haven't told me much.
It seems to me electric fans are fine for moderate climates. I've heard a
few things about electric fan inadequacies, but those statements are always
from people running in typically hot climates. I'm talking arid desert. I
somehow doubt any $100 dollar device could increase gas mileage by 3 mpg,
but there is no question the mechanical fan sucks up some amount of power.
It may be an accurate figure. In cooler/colder climates, where the fan is
overkill at speed, there has to be some benefits regarding cold starting
proper engine temperature levels.
As far as hassle is concerned, as long as you've got all the items
necessary for the conversion, replacement of the mechanical fan is
relatively straightforward and easy. An hour or three max.
Kenlowe is the most well known supplier of electric fan for use in Land
Rovers. They're out of the UK. But, there is no real secret to an electric
fan for use on a radiator. Someone on the list has mentioned they purchased
their fan at Summit Racing, a mailorder group in the US who supply high
quality aftermarket racing equipment for street vehicles. Electric fans are
pretty reliable. If anything, you're taking wear and tear off the waterpump
drive area since that's what the mechanical fan feeds off of.
The nice thing about the Kenlowe system is their mounting brackets for
the Land Rover line of vehicles. Keeps the whole system neat and secure, as
opposed to the other more common method of fan mounting which involves
securing the fan via pins through the radiator fins. This is common
practice, though, and probably should not be seen as inferior.
Be sure to get a temperature sensor so the fan activation process is
automatic, and if you're doing any fording it would be a good idea to
install an override power cutoff switch to stop the fan manually at stream
crossings and waterholes.
Fans are also relatively inexpensive, so reaping the gains of added
efficiency should come pretty quickly.
These fans may consume a fair amount of electrical power, so be sure
you're electrical system is up to snuff. Speaking of which, be sure your
entire engine is up to snuff as a neglected engine can often be a detriment
to efficiency.
On an aside. Here's an interesting thought for you all to ponder. Another major source of engine power robbing is the alternator. At greater electrical loads the alternator grabs more engine power by increasing resistance. What if a second alternator were mounted to a driveshaft in order to take advantage of the drivetrain's greater inertia? The battery and smaller alternator in the engine would provide power at low speeds and during periods of idle, but the large alternator below would provide lots of power when the vehicle is on the move. Sort of a pseudo regenerative power system. Think it would work?
Jeff G.
Boston, MA
1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover - needing frame
1990 Range Rover County - hybrid fodder (ask about parts, especially body)
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD - the anomaly, albeit a competently quick 4x4
1991 Range Rover Hunter - basically OME-ified
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 18:31:49 +1000
From: "G.Donaldson" <donald_at_eis.net.au>
Subject: Transfer case
does anybody know why , when i put my disco into low range it almost always jumps back into neutral,even after pushing it back in again either just pushing or slamming the lever repeatedly.the dicso is a 96 model and just out of warranty . it is also an auto.
96 disco
Yes. I had to swap the power and ignition wires around, all the other wires were fine and the connectors matched. (It was a Kenwood Head Unit). I think your US car has a different spec as I don't have a subwoofer or amplifiers (but have a factory set up apart from the HU and CD).
Your best bet is to get Sony to send you the other half of the connectors (the car side) and then replace the connectors you have with these new ones. It should be simple enough to work out which wire goes where from the wiring diagram you got with your HU.
I think LR deliberately made this task difficult to dissuade people from fitting non factory stuff. I image this is worse for Disco's that D90's and even worse for a new RR. :-(.
From: Don Herrero [SMTP:don_at_sechq.com]
Sent: 08 January 1998 16:38
To: rro_at_playground.sun.com
Subject: New Head Unit
Vinnie from Crutchfield wrote:
I am also sorry to report that we do not have a wiring harness to
integrate
you Sony to Land Rover's wiring. Your Land Rover has 2 factory
amplifiers,
one driving the subs and the other for the rest of the speakers. The
amplifiers do accept a speaker level input but, due to the unique
nature of
the plug configurations you would need to cut off the factory
speaker
connector and hard wire the speaker outputs of the new radio to the
inputs
of the factory amps. I wish I had easier solutions for you.
above is an answer i got from Crutchfield. has anyone put an
aftermarket
head unit into there Disco without re wiring the whole system? is
there a
FAQ on this topic?
thanks
Don
95 Disco
You could try GPC, their web page is at http://www.rallying.co.uk/main.htm
They have a range of fuel tanks up to 170L. These are racing biased, but are FIA approved so at least that gives you piece of mind that they are a reasonable standard.
From: Mcd0123 [SMTP:Mcd0123_at_aol.com]
Sent: 08 January 1998 20:34
To: rro_at_playground.sun.com
Subject: Fuel tanks in D90's
Hi there, I am planning a drive down the Draa Valley in Morocco next
September.
One of my planned pre-trip mods is fitting a larger fuel tank
I need at least 10 extra gallons. Any ideas out there?
Tim McDowell
1991 D90 with single side tank
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 02:08:11 -0800
From: "Barry & Beth O'Mahony" <bomahon_at_teleport.com>
Subject: Re: Discovery Commerical
I've seen them on trips to the UK. Nope, no such animal in the US. Here, the Disco is positioned as a semi-luxurious to luxurious sport-utility vehicle, competing against the likes of Grand Cherokees and Land Cruisers. Just as you don't see Mercedes taxicabs in the US, there's no away LRNA would allow Disco delivery vans to be seen on this side of the pond.
At 02:34 PM 1/7/98 -0000, Lord, David. wrote:
>Does anyone out there have any first hand experience of the Discovery
>Commercial (Van)? I am looking at one at the weekend and would like to be
>armed with a bit of info, so I can properly grill the eager salesman. Do
>you guys in the US even have this thing? I doubt it, but you never know.
>The sales guy says that they completely build a three door car, then send it
[ truncated by list-digester (was 16 lines)]
>load of stuff for another dude in the next building to remove it later in
>the week.
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 18:26:53 +0800
From: Thomas Tickel <discover_at_crystal.com.au>
Subject: Re: Plug Leads 3.5 EFi Motor
Alan Logue wrote:
> My 91 Disco has just turned over 80,000km and I'm looking at replacing the
> innition leads.
> Does anyone have any recomendations/warnings for a good brand of plug leads
> and coil lead to upgrade to?
> I don't want sports car performance :<), but I want to get as much spark to
> each plug as I can.
> I'm also looking at putting in a new ignition coil, and keeping the old one
[ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
> Ph +61-8-83228965
> Fax +61-8-83875535
ALAN the best leads to use are TOP GUN they are well insulated and last for years try your local sports shop and they will be ablr help you if not contact me
Thomas Tickel DISCOVERY AUOTOMOTIVE
>Thanks to a very nice truck driver I was informed yesterday that I was
driving without the lower brake lights
>What's going on!!!
Are you sure they aren't the rear fog loamps? The Rangies loer lights are the fogs. They only work when switched on and the headlights are on low beam
Regards,
Ron Beckett
Emu Plains, NSW, Australia
'86 Range Rover 4.8L auto (The Last Aquila)
'71 Hillman Hunter Royal 660 1725cc manual
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc auto
'67 Hillman Gazelle 1725cc manual
check my home page at
http://www.users.bigpond.com/hillman
Hi John
I cannot do the fitting work but we can supply the right drivetrain parts at a good price, let me know what you require.
David Ashcroft (Automatic Conversions UK)
Hi
Sounds like you need to adjust the Hi/lo arm that connects the linkage to the transfer case, you will find a pressed steel bracket at the trasnfer case end of the arm, it is held in position by a nut on either side, adjust it a couple of turns to ensure you are pushing it fully into to low.
Regards
David Ashcroft (Automatic Conversions UK)
Hi Mike
My 1990 RR did exactly the same thing, remove the door trim and adjust the actuater on it's elongated slots until it stops doing it.
Regards
David Ashcroft
The economy is awefull and the tank is small. I usually have to fill up every other day. I average about 13 mpg.
William Pittman
> -----Original Message-----
> From: ALeXaNdE12 [SMTP:ALeXaNdE12_at_aol.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 08, 1998 6:53 PM
> To: rro_at_playground.sun.com
> Subject: Re: Fuel tanks in D90's
[ truncated by list-digester (was 19 lines)]
> 92 500SL
> 97 A8 4.2
I am planning on updating the suspnsion. It looks like I am going to go with either lr heavy duty springs and ome or rancho shocks or go with the ome springs with either their shocks or the rancho's.
1997 d90 wagon 'Beast'
William Pittman
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mark Talbot [SMTP:rangerover_at_top.monad.net]
> Sent: Thursday, January 08, 1998 11:14 PM
> To: rro_at_playground.sun.com
> Subject: RE: safari gard vs arb
[ truncated by list-digester (was 33 lines)]
> > comments <--- stupid question :)
> > William Pittman
I am not sure how much this effects it but with the defenders you are basically pushing a box through the air where as with the disco and rr there is som aerodynamic(s) involved.
William Pittman
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Goldman [SMTP:roverboy_at_gis.net]
> Sent: Friday, January 09, 1998 12:10 AM
> To: rro_at_playground.sun.com
> Subject: Along the subject of MPG...
[ truncated by list-digester (was 56 lines)]
> 1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD - the anomaly, albeit a competently quick 4x4
> 1991 Range Rover Hunter - basically OME-ified
Ok, I now need to replace my fifth brake/stop/turn light bulb on my 97 d90. The problem is water ingress into the light fixture. I took this to my deaer not too long ago. They told me of a change, made the change, Think that fixed it? NO. It is not like these things are expensive but I would rather not change them every month. any ideas?????? I thought about drilling a pin sized hole into the bottom of each of the lenses. Any problems with that?
William Pittman
My $.02 worth,
A small pin hole seems to work ell for me. On my wife's volvo, she had a a
small crack in the rear tail lamp assembly . Anytime it would rain it would
fill up with water, blow the bulb, and blow the fuse on the whole light
system. Instead of springing for $$$ that a new or used would cost I just
drilled a small hole in the botton of the lense and it has worked finr
since. You can't even see the hole. I am assuming the same would work for
the Def 90
Cheers
Chris
91 RR County SWB (w/ a few extra's)
Chris,
I think it will work. the only difference is that on the volvo I would imagini that mud, creck cossings, etc were not a factor, I just hope it does not make the situation worsr by allowing mud to enter and still have the water problem.
William Pittman
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Dillard [SMTP:cdillard_at_Aholdusa.com]
> Sent: Friday, January 09, 1998 7:58 AM
> To: rro_at_playground.sun.com
> Subject: Re: defender lights
[ truncated by list-digester (was 28 lines)]
> Chris
> 91 RR County SWB (w/ a few extra's)
True, but actually my wife loves to take the Volvo off road!! However, it's not always intentional!! The mud does bring up a good point.
Chris
Jim how did you put the insulation under the dash? Chris "V"
Robert Kolander
Subject: D90 HdTop ?
I have a D110 in idaho where drafts are -20F at times. My D110 has minor leaks as you describe (probably much smaller). I put 1/8 inch thick foam/adhesive backed weather strippting on my doors. I replace it every 2 years. It seems to do the trick.
PS. If you do not have a radiator Muffler and want warmth, I got one from Rovers North and have been super warm and happy (although weather only to -5F so far). I also added 3/8 inch insulation under all floormats, under dash, under seats, etc. (all hidden).
Jim Sailer
93 D110 that is warm and not drafty.
Atul,
My Discovery had a rattle in the exhaust that I thought was the heat shield.
It turned out it was a baffle in the exhaust. I have 45K on the odo. I had a
Ex***oer that had water in the gas and was misfiring until I got it home. I
had to replace the catalytic converter. The local muffler shops all wanted
about $200. With all the CB thread. Where is the best place to install an
antenna on a Discovery?
Greg Edwards
95 Discovery
Greg,(FYI)
I don't have a disco (RR) but on mine I got a K40 antenna w/ a magnet mount and it can be mounted/ and removed just about anywhere on the RR. Holds great and no body/or bumper drilling. Great reception and transmission also. CB is Uniden 510XL tuned to 35 watt output (by CB shop)
Cheers
Chris
91 RR County SWB (w/a few extra's)
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 1998 09:33:55 -0500
From: Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net>
Subject: Re: Misfiring and catalytic converters
At 09:10 AM 1/9/98 EST, LndRvr SC wrote:
>With all the CB thread. Where is the best place to install an
>antenna on a Discovery?
Greg,
Depending on the clearance you need, you could go with:
permanent roof mount
bracket mount off the spare tire
bumper end cap mount like I described for my Range Rover.
The higher the better and the longer antenna the better. This list is in order of expected performance, with best first. Good ground makes a big difference too...
Lee
END OF * LIST DIGEST
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