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Contents:
Message Digest Contents
msg Sender Lines Subject 1 Polly Welch <pwelch_at_cnw.com> 19 Re: Range Rover "88
2 gpool_at_pacific.net (Granville Pool 19 Re: Range Rover "88 3 gpool_at_pacific.net (Granville Pool 27 Re: Ibex Pages 4 sjw_at_mssl.ucl.ac.uk (STEVE) 12 Re: Range Rover "88 5 Dirk Tischer <dtischer_at_U.Arizona. 30 Re: Tow Bars on a D90 6 "Michael Fredette" <mfredett_at_ichi 38 [not specified] 7 Polly Welch <pwelch_at_cnw.com> 28 Re: Range Rover "88 8 "Rick Larson" <rlarson_at_vineyard.m 22 Re: Southern CA... Defender parts? 9 "Rick Larson" <rlarson_at_vineyard.m 28 Re: D90 problems of the day 10 Kevin Kelly <kkelly6788_at_earthlink 16 BMW and the Freelander 11 Richard Atkinson <atkinson_at_cemr.w 17 Re: GAZELLE 12 gpool_at_pacific.net (Granville Pool 23 Re: GAZELLE 13 "Robert A. Virzi" <rvirzi_at_gte.com 17 Re: Ibex Pages 14 Jeff Greenfield <jgreenfield_at_taco 62 RE: Antenna installaton and illumination strip installation 15 "Christopher H. Dow" <dow_at_thelen. 21 Re: Antenna installaton and illumination strip installation 16 Richard Atkinson <atkinson_at_cemr.w 19 Re: Brake Bleeding Made EZ 17 "tchris" <tchris_at_freewwweb.com> 23 Re: Range Rover "88 18 tc971613_at_student.paisley.ac.uk (T 7 Eco-Driving
19 DEFENDER_at_ibm.net 27 Re: Eco-Driving 20 RoverNut_at_aol.com 15 Re: Fuel Pump Pressure on a Range Rover? 21 Will Jansen <wjansen_at_worldnet.att 17 Re: Range Rover "88 22 Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net> 18 Re: Eco-Driving 23 "Mike Maurer" <micmau_at_rgalex.com> 17 96 Discovery - troubleshooting 24 kpwright_at_ra.rockwell.com 25 Sunroof Rattle - Update 25 "Tom Walsh" <tomw_at_best.com> 45 Re: D90 problems of the day 26 Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net> 15 Re: door latch - update 27 kpwright_at_ra.rockwell.com 24 98 Discovery 28 Cort Esch <esch_at_99main.com> 27 Re: 96 Disco: Antenna installaton and illumination strip installation 29 debrown_at_srp.gov 22 Re: D90 problems of the day 30 Cort Esch <esch_at_99main.com> 25 Re: Range Rover "88
31 "Rick Larson" <rlarson_at_vineyard.m 32 Re: D90 problems of the day 32 "Louis Goldring Jr." <louman_at_prim 30 Re: Small Net Sighting 33 "Tom Walsh" <tomw_at_best.com> 57 Re: D90 problems of the day ( shock/susp mods ) 34 "Louis Goldring Jr." <louman_at_prim 18 Re: Small Net Sighting 35 Garrick Brett Olsen <gbolsen_at_alli 15 unsubscribe 36 "Tom Walsh" <tomw_at_best.com> 41 Re: D90 problems of the day 37 rgut_at_nacion.co.cr (Roberto Gutier 20 Disco vrs. 110 (compare) 38 Morison <morison_at_alumni.caltech.e 12 Re: 98 Discovery
39 Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net> 40 Re: Range Rover "88 40 BEKarow <BEKarow_at_aol.com> 15 Original tires 41 BEKarow <BEKarow_at_aol.com> 38 Transmission filter 42 Russ Burns <burns_at_cisco.com> 52 Re: Transmission filter
43 Jules_at_learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P 29 [not specified] 44 Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler_at_s 34 Re: Wrong Side of the Road
45 Jeff Goldman <roverboy_at_gis.net> 82 Re: Range Rover "88 46 Cort Esch <esch_at_99main.com> 21 Re: door latch - update 47 Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net> 49 Re: door latch - update 48 Jeff Goldman <roverboy_at_gis.net> 36 Re: Tow bars on a D90 49 Jeff Goldman <roverboy_at_gis.net> 21 Re: Range Rover "88 50 Wil <who_at_netwizards.net> 12 d90 51 rovah_at_agate.net 22 Maine Forest Rally Info...
52 Kevin Kelly <kkelly6788_at_earthlink 48 Range Rover Cooling System 53 Alexander George Cooper <agcooper 30 Re: Range Rover Cooling System 54 Michael Carradine <cs_at_unimog.net> 15 Re: Range Rover Cooling System 55 Strange john <ac417_at_dial.pipex.co 26 Re: the wrong side and other matters 56 Strange john <ac417_at_dial.pipex.co 26 Re: the wrong side and other matters 57 "David M. Sherwood" <zaphod_at_exodu 23 91 Range Rover?
58 Lodelane <Lodelane_at_aol.com> 15 Re: the wrong side and other matters 59 Ashok_Priyadarshan_at_vanguard.com 15 GOOD RR/LR MECHANICS 60 kpwright_at_ra.rockwell.com 18 Re: 98 Discovery 61 Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net> 18 Re: 91 Range Rover?
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 08:42:05 -0800
From: Polly Welch <pwelch_at_cnw.com>
Subject: Re: Range Rover "88
What year is it? If it's a 1988, don't buy it unless you want to put at least what you pay for it back in to it over the years.
Polly
'88 RR
> he states looks very clean except some cracks in the leather seats all else
> is prestine. States it has all electric and has the towing package. The
> price asked is US $12,500. What do you think is this a good value and are
> their things to be aware of with this truck.
> Thanks for any advice.
[ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
> Thanks for any advice.
> Kelvin
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 08:45:51 -0800 (PST) From: gpool_at_pacific.net (Granville Pool) Subject: Re: Range Rover "88
Kelvin wrote:
>A good friend of mine is looking at buying a RR "88 with 62,00 miles which
>he states looks very clean except some cracks in the leather seats all else
>is prestine. States it has all electric and has the towing package. The
>price asked is US $12,500. What do you think is this a good value and are
>their things to be aware of with this truck.
Sounds like too much money for an '88, even with rather low mileage. Sounds like about that an '89 (big difference) would be worth with the same mileage.
Cheers,
Granny
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 08:50:52 -0800 (PST) From: gpool_at_pacific.net (Granville Pool) Subject: Re: Ibex Pages
Bob Virzi wrote:
>The ibex pages ( http://dialspace.dial.pipex.com/pbrad/ibex.htm ) have some
>of the most beautiful photography I've seen on the net. Whoever did the
>scans and conversions knew what they were doing. Does anyone have an email
>address for Peter (the site owner). I'd like to get some details on the
>work. Thanks. -Bob
Here you go: Peter Bradley <pbrad_at_dial.pipex.com>
I'm cc'ing Pete on this reply because I want him to appreciate the intensity of the compliment which, I assure you, he will greatly appreciate!
BTW, I'm sure there's a link on the Web site to send e-mail to Pete. I believe that most such links, if you right click them, will reveal the e-mail address imbeded therein.
Cheers,
Granville "Granny" Pool
Redwood Valley, CA, USA
'92 RR, '73 & '60 LR 88
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 16:58:56 GMT
From: sjw_at_mssl.ucl.ac.uk (STEVE)
Subject: Re: Range Rover "88
Ooh! What's wrong with an'88? I have an '87 which I have been running for more than a year and have had nothing go wrong, except a bit of a leak from the steering box when starting from sub zero temps.
Ciao
Steve
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 10:08:04 -0700 (MST) From: Dirk Tischer <dtischer_at_U.Arizona.EDU> Subject: Re: Tow Bars on a D90
Thanks for all the responses.
I had planned to disconnect the drive shafts at the differentials so the only things turning will be the axles and diffs - shoot it's only 8 bolts and if the Uhaul truck brakes down I'll only need to reconnect 4 to drive to a phone. Towing this way will put some wear on the tires and on the bearings but that should be negligible as these won't be driven and there won't be much weight in the vehicle.
I called around to price U haul flatbeds and found that it would be cheaper to buy a tow bar. I will now be able to join the Centipede when we really get stuck. 8, 12 or 16 wheel drive is better than 4! Well sometimes - at least when you need to push as well as pull.
Can I just use an extension cord from the U haul truck's trailer wiring connections to my D90 trailer wiring connections? By my figuring this should work perfectly. The lights are all grounded directly and with the lights on the vehicle switched off I shouldn't overload the wimpy LR fusebox.
This would be simple and inexpensive compared to hooking up extra lights.
Thanks again,
Dirk Tischer
Subject: Re: Steering boxes
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 09:14:49 -0800 (PST)
From: "Michael Fredette" <mfredett_at_ichips.intel.com>
Anyone had problems with the power steering boxes on Defenders? Our 110 has very loose steering and the dealer claims that we need a whole new steering box and drop arm. The rover is only 5 years old! Any advice would be great!
Tre McCroskey
Flatland Rover Society
'93 110
Tre,
Uh, that would be a big yes for me. My 94 D90's steering got REALLY sloppy after the 2nd or 3rd time off road during one of our Northwest Challenge's here in Oregon. By loose, I mean 1/5 to 1/4 turn of the wheel before anything moved at the other end. It was very noticeable off road, going over sharp bumps would give very sharp bump steer feedbacks, accompanied by LOUD slapping noises from the steering box. A new steering box (under warranty) fixed things for a while, until the next 2nd or 3rd off road stint caused the same problem. Again a new steering box under warranty, and this one held up for the next two years till I sold the D90 a few months ago. Now, my 101FC is twenty years old and it's steering is just fine. I'm sure Dixon is sniggering, but I have a rather sour taste for new LR products and thier longevity when subjected to repeated hard off roading. Not to mention the 7500 mile major service interval. At $250 a throw. Then the 15k and 30k services at $500 and $800 respectively. I just don't understand the need for these expenses when my wife drives a Toy Land Crusher, All-Wheel Drive, viscous coupling, locking diffs front and rear, blah blah blah. We change the oil every 3-4k and it's FIRST dealer service was at 30k miles, and cost $129.99. By contrast, the 101 has cost me elbow grease, and is a LOT more fun to bomb around in.
Rgds
Mike Fredette
Portland, OR.
101FC and now sans D90
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 09:18:36 -0800
From: Polly Welch <pwelch_at_cnw.com>
Subject: Re: Range Rover "88
It's all how you look at it. I have more $$ than I paid for it in to mine already after only having it 7 years. But......I was well read before I bought it, so I knew what to expect. Minus the new engine, I wouldn't have quite that much into it. I would think that if you just wanted a cool 4x4 and didn't know a lot about Rovers (and hadn't wanted one since before you could drive), you would be disappointed in the maintenance, especially on the 1988 - which I must add, had I known way back when I bought it, that it was a bad year, I would have waited. I really have no regrets, just occassional frustrations, but like I said, I knew for years what I would be getting into. I'd hate to see some poor unsuspecting soul buy one for his daily driver, especially if he doesn't happen to be mechanically inclined, or have a healthy check book, and a spare car or two. Also, we all know, just because the car "looks" like it's in excellent condition, that means absolutely nothing. Mine is 10 years old and if you didn't know better, you'd think it was brand new (probably cause I'm a woman!).
Polly
PS: Steve - I haven't forgotten about you, it's just the wrong time of the year to find those around here but I've had my eyes open. Did find a lovely one with a huge picture of rainbow colored sunglasses across it, but didn't think that would suit you!
Safari Gard is probably 1-1.5 hours South East of LA.
http://www.safarigard.com has the phone info.
Greg has a test track and the shop is on site. It always a fun place to visit. Probably want to leave your wallet at home. The place usually manages to suck any $$ I happen to have around. In the past SG was only open weekends on appointment.
-Rick
--
Richard Larson
MIPS Technology Inc., rlarson_at_mti.sgi.com Silicon Graphics Corp. (415) 933-7665
I had the same opinion when it had the stockish suspension. 3.5" of lift later I've come to appreciate sway bars on the road. My suspension is very soft. 150lbs/in in front, 180lb/in rear. This is with winch, air compressor, big bumper, skid plates etc. I get a lot of roll in corners. It isn't always very predictable.
-Rick
On Dec 3, 12:54pm, Michel Sallah-Fade wrote: > Subject: D90 problems of the day
> Of course it runs better with the sway bars "off". On my old 90 (1988 Td)
> there were NO sway bar but on my new disco there are ; Think I'm gonna
> disconnect them
> the car will be more comfortable
>-- End of excerpt from Michel Sallah-Fade
--
Richard Larson
MIPS Technology Inc., rlarson_at_mti.sgi.com Silicon Graphics Corp. (415) 933-7665
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 07:51:37 -0800
From: Kevin Kelly <kkelly6788_at_earthlink.net>
Subject: BMW and the Freelander
>Don't forget that the 98 Camel Trophy will be driven in Freelanders.
>Those machines, created by the BMW marketing department, are not
>even off-roaders.
BMW has actually had very little to do with the Freelander/CB40 project. It was started when Honda owned part of Land Rover and Honda planned to sell their own version of the Freelander (like they did with the Disco in Japan).
Kevin Kelly
BMW CCA #50039
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 13:47:41 -0500
From: Richard Atkinson <atkinson_at_cemr.wvu.edu>
Subject: Re: GAZELLE
Yo! Granny! I can't seem to find the words "transfer case" or "low range" anywhere. Have I missed something?
My '86 Bronco II runabout has now done 195k miles on its 2.9L V6 engine. Other than a stuck EGR valve, and needing to reset the hydraulic tappets preload, that engine's given excellent service, especially off-road. Now, with 16V heads...
Regards,
Richard.
'89NAS RR
KB8SFA/ZS5GH
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 11:37:35 -0800 (PST) From: gpool_at_pacific.net (Granville Pool) Subject: Re: GAZELLE
Richard wrote:
>Yo! Granny! I can't seem to find the words "transfer case" or "low range"
>anywhere. Have I missed something?
Wow, I looked and you're right, nothing is said about those items. I gotta believe that it's a mistake but don't know for sure. I'd just assumed...
>My '86 Bronco II runabout has now done 195k miles on its 2.9L V6 engine.
>Other than a stuck EGR valve, and needing to reset the hydraulic tappets
>preload, that engine's given excellent service, especially off-road. Now,
>with 16V heads...
How do you put 16 valve heads on a V-6? Sounds like faulty math to me...
Cheers,
Granny
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 14:52:44 -0500
From: "Robert A. Virzi" <rvirzi_at_gte.com>
Subject: Re: Ibex Pages
>BTW, I'm sure there's a link on the Web site to send e-mail to Pete. I
>believe that most such links, if you right click them, will reveal the
>e-mail address imbeded therein.
Thanks for the email address, couldn't find it even on his personal pages.
And right click?!??!?!? You mean hold the mouse in my right hand? Oh! I get it. You're one of those. . . .
Bob Virzi | Hiroshima '45 rvirzi_at_gte.com | Chernobyl '86 +1(617)466-2881 | Windows '95
<I have an antenna (genuine) for my '96 Disco that I need to install (old
one
broke when SWMBO didn't lower it on the last off-road trip!). Could
someone
give me a few pointers on this?>
Contrary to popular belief this is not too difficult. It will probably take one to two hours. (YMMV)
This is all from memory as I did this in my '95 disco last summer.
<Also, I need to replace the illumination strip for the auto transmission
shifter. I guess I'll have to remove the center console and area to get
down to
the shifter, but again, would appreciate some pointers.>
If you're talking about the bulbs that light the shift gate - The bezel around the shifter comes off. It gets pulled either slightly frontwards or backwards (Can't remember which) and snaps off. The bulbs are then accessible. That's all there is to it.
Hope this helps.
Jeff Greenfield
'95 Disco
'87 Alfa Spider (For Sale)
'71 BMW 2002csl (For Sale - One of a kind)
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 12:19:59 -0800
From: "Christopher H. Dow" <dow_at_thelen.org>
Subject: Re: Antenna installaton and illumination strip installation
Thank you so very much for the antenna installation instructions.
<Also, I need to replace the illumination strip for the auto transmission shifter. I guess I'll have to remove the center console and area to get down to the shifter, but again, would appreciate some pointers.>
: If you're talking about the bulbs that light the shift gate - The : bezel around the shifter comes off. It gets pulled either slightly : frontwards or backwards (Can't remember which) and snaps off. The : bulbs are then accessible. That's all there is to it.
Alas, I'm talking about the actual plastic strip through which the bulb shines.
C
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 15:14:51 -0500
From: Richard Atkinson <atkinson_at_cemr.wvu.edu>
Subject: Re: Brake Bleeding Made EZ
One can also obtain the Gunson EeziBleed from:
r.d. enterprises, ltd.
290 Raub Road, Quakertown, PA 18951 USA
phone: (215) 538-9323
fax: (215) 538-0158
e-mail: rdent_at_rdent.com
web: http://www.rdent.com
The last known price was $26.95.
Richard
'89NAS RR
KB8SFA/ZS5GH
There's nothing wrong with an' 88 it's just that the '89 is so much better people tend to refer to '88 and earlier as less desirable Chris "V"
Ooh! What's wrong with an'88? I have an '87 which I have been running for more than a year and have had nothing go wrong, except a bit of a leak from the steering box when starting from sub zero temps.
Ciao
Steve
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 20:31:13 -0800
From: tc971613_at_student.paisley.ac.uk (Timothy Coles)
Subject: Eco-Driving
Lee, how many people drive like the Isuzu ad. What Imeant was the sort of responsible driving that the people on this list do.
Timothy Coles wrote:
> Lee, how many people drive like the Isuzu ad. What Imeant was the
> sort
> of responsible driving that SOME OF the people on this list do.
--------------58FC0B46403F2F00099F6694
[ Original post was HTML ]
<HTML>
Timothy Coles wrote:
<BR>LRO-URL: <A HREF="http://WWW.Land-Rover.Team.Net/">http://WWW.Land-Rover.Team.Net/</A>
<P>Lee, how many people drive like the Isuzu ad. What Imeant was
the sort
<BR>of responsible driving that <B>SOME OF </B>the people on this
list do.</BLOCKQUOTE>
</HTML>
--------------58FC0B46403F2F00099F6694--
I'd stay original. In fact it's not terribly expensive to do so. There is a company in CA that rebuilds them and our local import auto shop gets them for $139.
Call United Import Auto in Durham NC and tell them what you're looking for. They'll say they can't find it, but tell them to keep looking....it's there.
Take care,
Alex Maiolo
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 16:26:59 -0500
From: Will Jansen <wjansen_at_worldnet.att.net>
Subject: Re: Range Rover "88
tchris wrote:
> There's nothing wrong with an' 88 it's just that the '89 is so much better
> people tend to refer to '88 and earlier as less desirable
> Chris "V"
I dunno man, that borg-warner T-case in the models above 88 sucks relative to the one they have in 87 and 88's and Discoveries and Defenders. I like the 88 models, but I would take an 89 :). You are right about engine size and whatnot thought, but that can be easily remedied.
Will Jansen 88 Range Rover- My "desirable" daily driver
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 16:26:42 -0500
From: Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net>
Subject: Re: Eco-Driving
At 08:31 PM 12/3/97 -0800, Timothy Coles wrote:
>Lee, how many people drive like the Isuzu ad. What Imeant was the sort
>of responsible driving that the people on this list do.
Sure, most of the people on this list drive responsibly offroad. But hang out where offroaders play and sometimes you'll find yourself in the minority...
A lot of "he-men" are out there to prove that they *are* testosterone poisoned...and it's the woods that suffer...
Lee
Any ideas
Intermittent problem when hot at 50 mph motor runs rough, power loss for 4
Swishing sound in rear when driving, had the rear coupler replaced a few months ago, smoothed shifting then out. Hard shifts at 50 mph starting again and lag on acceleration from stop.
Thanks
If anyone has a Disco with sunroofs that rattle, here's an update:
First, thanks to everyone who responded with their experiences and suggestions for sunroof rattles. I printed out the emails and took them to the dealer yesterday. After having the vehicle for the day (oil change & look at rattle) I was informed that they located a tech service bulletin which listed a repair kit for this specific problem. The kit includes new side rails and pivoting mechanism, it does not replace the whole assembly. It did scare me somewhat that the kit includes a special epoxy that requires 8 hours to dry. I can imagine getting the rattle fixed and then springing a leak.
The dealer is ordering the kit now. I'll post again with the results, probably in a few weeks.
Has anybody else had this type of repair (with the "kit")?
Kevin
97 Disco
> I had the same opinion when it had the stockish suspension. 3.5" of lift
> later I've come to appreciate sway bars on the road. My suspension is
> very soft. 150lbs/in in front, 180lb/in rear. This is with winch,
> air compressor, big bumper, skid plates etc. I get a lot of roll in corners.
> It isn't always very predictable.
> -Rick
Although I have stiffer springs, I have more weight up top ( steel roof, TWO sunroofs? etc )... I am now 3-4 inches lifted ( a tad more than the last time you saw it Rick... ( had to lift more to get 33" rancho 9012's shocks up front, even with taller shock towers, I hade to make sure I didn't "cramp" the shocks )...
But the point to this i:s I was swayey ( no swaybars )..., going to the rancho's fixed that for me......, I really wanted to do the Fox shocks like you... but it would have made driving it around pretty scarey! Even at that I DID get a an F250 to help split the miles and keep the neibhors thinking I'm somewhat normal :)
If you put the air stiffening ( no these do not raise the height of the vehicle at all ) ranchos in just the front, it works well ( although you then get some tail waggle from whatever looser shocks are in the back... ). I just finished putting the 9012's in the back this weekend ( I built custom mounts for them as well ) .It solves the tail waggle.. I have only hooked the fronts to in cab adjust ( I did that last year with the smaller rancho's up front I used to have, and need to get more parts but.. ).... This way if I blow an air line I still have stability from the manual adjusted rear ones... I just send the navigator out to adjust em ( Ben Smith or Jim Holmes :).... hope they don't read this :)
PS: this is a Disco, but the physics still apply to D90's
TomW
Fluent Networks
"Intelligent Networking Solutions"
tomw_at_best.com 95 LR Disco "The Light Brigade"
http://www.fluentnet.com
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 17:14:15 -0500
From: Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net>
Subject: Re: door latch - update
Well, as long as everyone else is doing it...
I had my door actuator replaced last week, and am happy to report that my GE extended service contract covered the repair :)
The problem was intermittent, and it hasn't recurred <KOW>, so hopefully my sticky door latch problem I described earlier is gone...
Lee
'95 County LWB, 61K miles
Last night I was at the dealer and checked out the 98 Discovery. Basically, the SD has been eliminated (at least for the US), the SE is now the LE, and there is a deluxe version called the LSE with some fancy paint matching and a CD player. The rear seats & air conditioning (previous SE7) are available on the LE or the LSE.
The model I looked at was an LE. From what I could tell, it is exactly the same as a 97 SE, with the addition of a wood trim strip on each of the 4 doors, right above the arm rest, and the warranty has been extended to 4 years/50,000 mi. Here's the kicker: the list price has been reduced from $36,000 to $34,500. I would like to know what the new dealer cost is - was it also reduced $1500 (was $32,000 in 97)? When I bought my 97 SE about 2 months ago I paid less than the $34,500, but I'm wondering how low they're discounting the 98's. At least they didn't release a bunch of new fantastic features. Then I'd be a little peeved.
Kevin
97 Disco, but looks like a 98 without the wood on the doors!
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 17:34:40 -0800
From: Cort Esch <esch_at_99main.com>
Subject: Re: 96 Disco: Antenna installaton and illumination strip installation
Christopher H. Dow wrote:
> I have an antenna (genuine) for my '96 Disco that I need to install (old one
> broke when SWMBO didn't lower it on the last off-road trip!). Could someone
> give me a few pointers on this?
I broke mine when I dropped an *empty* cardboard box off the safari rack and then watched it slide down the windshield. Well, actually, I didn't break it until I tried to straighten it back out :) I actually ran down the road to the local car-boom type place and they stuck one in for under $50, including the antenna.
> Also, I need to replace the illumination strip for the auto transmission
> shifter. I guess I'll have to remove the center console and area to get down to
> the shifter, but again, would appreciate some pointers.
Doesn't the shifter cover just pop off? That's how you replace the lightbulbs in there.
> rancho 9012's shocks up front, even with taller shock towers, I hade
> are in the back... ). I just finished putting the 9012's in the back
> PS: this is a Disco, but the physics still apply to D90's
Also, Please tell me about your shock towers, Will they work on RR?
Thanks, Dave Brown
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 17:51:46 -0800
From: Cort Esch <esch_at_99main.com>
Subject: Re: Range Rover "88
Kelvin Crezee wrote:
> A good friend of mine is looking at buying a RR "88 with 62,00 miles which
> he states looks very clean except some cracks in the leather seats all else
> is prestine. States it has all electric and has the towing package. The
> price asked is US $12,500. What do you think is this a good value and are
> their things to be aware of with this truck.
> PS: this is a Disco, but the physics still apply to D90's
Tom,
I'm glad you are getting your suspension dialed in.
Just one thing.....
Sway bars are designed to restrict a specific side to side movement of the vehicle while letting the rest of the suspension be dialed in to handle other movements of the axle.
Shocks aren't designed to restrict movement. They are designed to dampen movement of the springs. I'd be a little concerned with the load you are putting on your shocks/mounts if they are being used to restrict movement.
-Rick (again playing amature suspension engineer....)
--
Richard Larson
MIPS Technology Inc., rlarson_at_mti.sgi.com Silicon Graphics Corp. (415) 933-7665
Sean P. Murphy wrote:
>Was this a trip that was run with some Jeeps and other critters from a
>club in Atlanta?
No, just an impromtu collection of like-minded friends. All were from Phoenix. The Atlanta connection was Jay Bird. He was coming out here for business and he wanted to see what Arizona Rock-Crawling was really like, after reading a lot about it in the magazines, so I invited him along. By chance is he a member of your club? Rhea Melendy, the wife of local four-wheeling ledgend Mr. Ed, sent him a copy of the video she shot.
>I saw video of a white D90 on terminator with the doors
>off. Was that you?
Sure enough. I'm the Red Head, well what is left is red.
>It was played at our meeting, to the chagrin of the
>folks that went along since the 90 walked the same spot that the heavily
>modified Jeeps were sticking on. <GRIN>
Yeah, I love doing that.
Lou
I am moving from betta testing to operational with the shock towers :) I have a rally this week... I will let you know how they hold up.
I fabricated them myself. They are 2.5 or so inches taller than stock, made of 1/8 inch steel, open tower design.
The 9012's are definately NOT the shocks any one should order and expect them to fit... they are 33 inches long when fully extended and about half that completely compressed. Go measure your shocks. typical OME's are about ~27-28. If you just stick these big ones in there they will be completely stuffed, effectivly turning the shock into a steel bar ( no shock! except for tramma shock the driver will sucumb :). I have considerable lift on the vehicle as well.
I designed a new front lift kit that lifts the front springs up 3.5 inches ( these are MD REAR... OME springs in the front )... The key however... is to let the shock start where the lift starts, not where the spring starts ( is lifted to )... This gives you more room for a longer travel shock ( typically they are taller duh! ), and you won't end up stuffing them at normal ride height...
so total front lift is 3.5 inches plus lift of REAR MD OMES in front ~1.5 inches, minus weight of winch ( 150' cable ), 1/4 plate steel skid plate and 2nd battery holder, 2nd battery, Very BIG chain based ground anchor system.... probably puts it at 4 inches...
The rears have 2" lift blocks and HD REAR OME springs.. In order to fit RS 9012's back there, you have to mount the top of the shock on the rear frame outrigger.... ( roughly 3.75 inches... have to get em equal one of these days, no biggy.... I have 4 or 5 sets of different springs I have been playing with, that will do it, or simple changing block size a tad )
TomW, just kinda playin around :)
> From: David Brown - Graphics Specialist ~SRP~ e-mail: debrown_at_srp.gov
> *** Resending note of 12/03/97 15:02
> PAB219 (602)236-3544 - Pager:6486 External (602)275-2508 #6486
> Pers. E-mail: rovernut_at_hotmail.com
> Are these the same numbers for the Range Rover? (I have a 1987)
> > rancho 9012's shocks up front, even with taller shock towers, I hade
[ truncated by list-digester (was 20 lines)]
> Also, Please tell me about your shock towers, Will they work on RR?
> Thanks, Dave Brown
Fluent Networks
"Intelligent Networking Solutions"
tomw_at_best.com 95 LR Disco "The Light Brigade"
http://www.fluentnet.com
What are you running on your suspension?
I run the Desert Rover suspension, which I helped to design. For more info
look at:
http://www.u.arizona.edu/~dtischer/dr.html
Lou Goldring
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 97 18:21:14 PST
From: Garrick Brett Olsen <gbolsen_at_allina.com>
Subject: unsubscribe
unsubscribe
This message was sent by Chameleon
I understand this... I really only have them "Stiff" when driving up rt 9 to my house.... The rancho shafts are much stiffer than stock, or even OME... dunno about the foxes.... I have been keeping a close eye on the mounts.... I went to hardned ones ( self built ) after notice some deformations with the stock front ones... I plan on ( and have the stuff ) putting two shocks per wheel in the rear... that will be tougher on the front ( but do-able ). This should help distribute the force between the the two shocks...
On another note older stock Rangies didn't have sway bar at alls, nor do you in the rear ( I beleive )... The biggest forces are in the front however ( From what I've seen )....
I definately am keeping my eye on things ( and taking it easy until I play it out.... I have already re-tweaked a few things since install, and plan to do one or two more things tomorrow ( not needed but, just to be extra safe ) before we take off for the rally.... ( this ones more navigating/driving than the northwest challenges beat the 35 inch tired jeep mongers :)
> > PS: this is a Disco, but the physics still apply to D90's
> Tom,
> I'm glad you are getting your suspension dialed in.
> Just one thing.....
> Sway bars are designed to restrict a specific side
[ truncated by list-digester (was 30 lines)]
> MIPS Technology Inc., rlarson_at_mti.sgi.com
> Silicon Graphics Corp. (415) 933-7665
---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*---------*
Fluent Networks
"Intelligent Networking Solutions"
tomw_at_best.com 95 LR Disco "The Light Brigade"
http://www.fluentnet.com
Hello all:
Anyone in the mood of giving me a faithfull comparission between the Discovery and a Defender 110 ? I would like to know which parts/mechanics they share, which are different. What I mean is that at least here in my country, there is only a difference of US$10,000 (about 20%) between a 110 TDI 97 and a Disco 97 like SE5/SE7 petrol or tdi. How they compare with respect to mechanics, on/off road ability, reliability, length, suspension, security side bars, etc...
Thanks for sharing.
Roberto
San Jose, Costa Rica
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 17:10:09 -0800
From: Morison <morison_at_alumni.caltech.edu>
Subject: Re: 98 Discovery
Just curious, what new exterior colors did the 98's have? I bought a 97 LSE (Late year model) in Aug of 97. It does not have the wood on the doors, but it does have a cd player, rear tire cover saying Land Rover in the green oval, and complete mat set.
Janine
morison_at_alumni.cco.caltech.edu
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 20:24:47 -0500
From: Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net>
Subject: Re: Range Rover "88
At 05:51 PM 12/3/97 -0800, Cort Esch wrote:
>2. Too much... It looks like RRs are selling way below book. I only know
>about 95 LWBs, but for instance I saw three nice ones in NY for $32K and
$33K.
>My brother ended up picking one up for me at auction for $29K. The book
value
>is just under $40K, and my insurance company said they would pay over $38K
for
>a totalled vehicle. My long-winded point being that they are definitely well
>below book.
I bought mine just about a year ago for $200 more than what a LR dealer offered my dealer for it, wholesale. $31.7K.
Book at that time was $41K.
I've seen a number of '95s selling at around $30K or so more recently. That seems to be about the market for '95s... older ones are all over the map...
Take a look at what others have sold in similar condition in your area. Around here I'd expect to pay around $10Kfor a nice '88, about $16K for a '92...
HTH,
Lee
Lee Levitt
wheelman _at_ shore.net
Director, Systems Marketing, News Internet Services -
http://www.newsinternet.com
Webmaster, NeedhamOnline - http://www.NeedhamOnline.com
and http://www.wheelman.com (some cool stuff for gearheads like me!)
1995 Range Rover County LWB, 60K, member Bay State Rovers
1990 Audi 200T, 82K
1987 Wicked Fat Chance, 1981 Condor
I am needing to replace one axle set of tires on my 1989 RR. I would prefer to remain with the original spec tire. If anyone is upgrading to a larger size tire and has an original unused spare tire for sale, please contact me privately to discuss price, and shipping arrangements.
Also, I saw a AA yellow 4.0 or 4.6 RR on I-90 today, heading toward Rockford, IL. Anyone on the list? What's with the yellow? Whew!
Barry
I replaced the transmission filter on my 89RR this past weekend. That alone should bring groans of "been there, done that" type sympathy. What a brutal job! I had a dickens of a time trying to get the passenger side (right) sensor out of the exhaust pipe. Couldn't, then gave up and thought I'd simply disconnect the wires at the plastic union. Does anyone have arms that are four feet long and 2 inches in diameter? For those of you who don't know, the union is at the top of the bell housing, between the firewall and other loom wires. Having finally located and moved the connection I could disconnect the wires and drop the exhaust system. The hint I wanted to pass along here is to un-bolt the hangers from the body rather than to attempt to disconnect the rubber mounts from the hangers. It makes the process a lot easier.
The next step was to stretch the frame to remove the cross member. Second Hint: a high-lift jack will not work because the jack works in about 1/2 inch increments and once under tension you cannot create enough force manually to get the next 1/2 inch on the jack handle. You must use a block of wood and a bottle jack. Third hint: bore a hole in the end of the wood large enough to accept the top of the bottle jack to prevent slippage, or you can rally sail a piece of wood for a short distance when it buckles.
The pan and filter removal/re-install were easy.
The entire job, including wrestling with the exhaust sensor wires, etc. was nearly 10 hours. I was exhausted. Ironically, installation was the opposite of removal, and went very easily, eventhough the mechanic was spent. I also removed the rust deposits from the frame rails and the cross member and coated both with the J.C. Whitney equivalent of waxoyl, just to add to the mess.
Good news: I saved approximately $600 (US) doing the job myself.
Bad news: my body, especially my back, still aches from exertion. What a beating!
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 21:52:18 -0500
From: Russ Burns <burns_at_cisco.com>
Subject: Re: Transmission filter
Just to make your day, I just looses the 6 bolts on the exuast manifold, and that gives me enough room to get the pan off.
Russ
At 09:24 PM 12/3/97 EST, you wrote:
>I replaced the transmission filter on my 89RR this past weekend. That alone
>should bring groans of "been there, done that" type sympathy. What a brutal
>job! I had a dickens of a time trying to get the passenger side (right)
>sensor out of the exhaust pipe. Couldn't, then gave up and thought I'd
simply
>disconnect the wires at the plastic union. Does anyone have arms that are
>four feet long and 2 inches in diameter? For those of you who don't know,
the
>union is at the top of the bell housing, between the firewall and other loom
>wires. Having finally located and moved the connection I could disconnect
the
>wires and drop the exhaust system. The hint I wanted to pass along here
is to
>un-bolt the hangers from the body rather than to attempt to disconnect the
>rubber mounts from the hangers. It makes the process a lot easier.
>The next step was to stretch the frame to remove the cross member. Second
>Hint: a high-lift jack will not work because the jack works in about 1/2
>inch increments and once under tension you cannot create enough force
manually
>to get the next 1/2 inch on the jack handle. You must use a block of wood
and
>a bottle jack. Third hint: bore a hole in the end of the wood large enough
>to accept the top of the bottle jack to prevent slippage, or you can rally
>sail a piece of wood for a short distance when it buckles.
>The pan and filter removal/re-install were easy.
>The entire job, including wrestling with the exhaust sensor wires, etc. was
>nearly 10 hours. I was exhausted. Ironically, installation was the opposite
>of removal, and went very easily, eventhough the mechanic was spent. I also
[ truncated by list-digester (was 10 lines)]
>of removal, and went very easily, eventhough the mechanic was spent. I also
>removed the rust deposits from the frame rails and the cross member and
coated
>both with the J.C. Whitney equivalent of waxoyl, just to add to the mess.
>Good news: I saved approximately $600 (US) doing the job myself.
>Bad news: my body, especially my back, still aches from exertion. What a
>beating!
>The entire job, including wrestling with the exhaust sensor wires, etc. was
>nearly 10 hours. I was exhausted. Ironically, installation was the opposite
>of removal, and went very easily, eventhough the mechanic was spent. I also
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 22:06:07 -0500
Subject: Re(2): Small Net Sighting
From: Jules_at_learnlink.emory.edu (Sean P. Murphy)
rro_at_playground.sun.com,Internet writes:
>No, just an impromtu collection of like-minded friends. All were from
>Phoenix. The Atlanta connection was Jay Bird. He was coming out here for
>business and he wanted to see what Arizona Rock-Crawling was really like,
>after reading a lot about it in the magazines, so I invited him along. By
>chance is he a member of your club? Rhea Melendy, the wife of local
>four-wheeling ledgend Mr. Ed, sent him a copy of the video she shot.
Yep, Jay Bird came to our Rover club meeting last month and showed the video.
>Sure enough. I'm the Red Head, well what is left is red.
>Phoenix. The Atlanta connection was Jay Bird. He was coming out here for
>business and he wanted to see what Arizona Rock-Crawling was really like,
Wow, small world. It looks like a fun trail, I'd love to come out there
sometime. All they need is a transporter tunnel to the West. <GRIN>
>Yeah, I love doing that.
>Phoenix. The Atlanta connection was Jay Bird. He was coming out here for
>business and he wanted to see what Arizona Rock-Crawling was really like,
Me too. My truck is now extremely well set up and it upsets folks with
other makes to see me walk the rocks when they beat themselves senseless
in the same spot. Now all I have to do is get my lockers working. <GRIN>
Sean P. Murphy
Project Director, LearnLink
Emory University
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 22:27:09 -0500 (EST) From: Jeff & Laura Kessler <lmkessler_at_srnet.com> Subject: Re: Wrong Side of the Road
I adjusted quickly to the "right" side of the road back when I use to get to Scotland a couple times a year.
Only driving problem I recall wasonce when i turned around at night on an empty road. I started back on the wrong side until an oncoming auto brought me to my senses.
The 1st - 2nd took practice to keep from making it a 1st - 4th.
The real danger to us over there is remembering which way to look before crossing the street so you do not end up decorating the front of a double decker bus.
Best trip was a couple of weeks with a Peugeot 205 GTI.
LR content - the US Navy ran some LRs over there and the UDT team had a RR.
Jeff Kessler (back on line after a hard disk crash) 1988 Range Rover (worth more to me than "book") Newport NH USA 603-863-7883 lmkessler_at_srnet.com
At 08:01 AM 11/30/97 -0800, you wrote:
>:::Does Japan also drive on the wrong side of the road ?
>::Japan, Australia, New Zealand, Ireland and of course England....
>:makes it tough to refer to it as the "wrong" side of the road, eh?
[ truncated by list-digester (was 23 lines)]
>driveway and started driving down the wrong side of the street.
>Kevin Kelly
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 22:50:37 -0500
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy_at_gis.net>
Subject: Re: Range Rover "88
>A good friend of mine is looking at buying a RR "88 with 62,00 miles which
>he states looks very clean except some cracks in the leather seats all else
>is prestine. States it has all electric and has the towing package. The
>price asked is US $12,500. What do you think is this a good value and are
>their things to be aware of with this truck.
The mileage being low is the only reason to consider a truck that old for
that much. Even then it depends what kind of miles they were, etc. 65k is
when you start getting into preventive and upkeep maintenance issues. As
someone has previously noted in another thread. A higher mileage vehicle
can possibly be benficial if its systems have been renewed. I doubt that a
vehicle with 62k has had much renewed. There are always exceptions, of
course. I found a 1990 with 63k that had most of its major systems renewed,
but it's also a 1990. In this case it may be worth it.
However, and this is a big however. The 1988 models had the 3.5L engine
and manual centre locking differential. Apparently, people have had
problems with the electrics. The '89+ models were very different vehicles.
The 3.9L was a huge boost in power, comparatively. Drive a 3.9L and you'll
never want a 3.5L. The viscous locking centre diff in the '89+ models is
also much less prone to problems. With a diff-lock vehicle you have to
worry about winding up the transmission when engaged, and that could be
very expensive. The '89+ vehicles negate that worry. It's also a chain
driven t-case and quieter. '89 also saw the introduction of ABS. Or was
that '90?
In the Boston area, '87 and '88 models go for under $9000 in some cases,
under $10,000 in almost all cases. For $12,500 you could get a 1990 with a
fair amount of mileage, and it would all around be a better vehicle.
Regardless of year check things like rust and corrosion (rear tailgate,
under rear wheelwells, rear crossmember area, front A-pillars, chassis
horns, battery tray, floor and footwells). Check that the transmission
doesn't have a significant amount of backlash.
When selecting between Drive and Reverse make sure you don't hear too
much of a clonking noise.
Check for weak springs. A well sprung vehicle should lean slightly to the
right.
If the truck rolls excessively in turns or when swinging the wheel
slightly from side to side when moving slowly the shocks are in need of
renewal. If, outside, you shake the vehicle by pressing on it's side and
the vehicle continues to oscillate, it needs new shocks. If you press down
on the front end and it doesn't immediately settle, the shocks need replacing.
The brakes should be strong and vibration free. The Range Rover has
surprisingly powerful brakes.
The steering box is a problem prone area. Check its oil reservoir to see
what the level is. Check for leaks at the box. This is an expensive repair
(~$400-500 for the part, rebuilt). Check that the steering is relatively
tight and that vehicle tracking is good. The Range Rover's steering
shouldn't feel to loose, and it's geared for off-road use, so is not as
sensitive feeling as conventional cars. It takes a much broader arc to make
a turn. But, the vehicle should not wander, and it should track easily. If
the wheel vibrates excessively over large road irregularities at highways
speeds, and the entire vehicle shakes oddly, the steering dmaper needs
attending, as does the shock absorbers.
The engine should idle smoothly and warm up, with normal driving,
quickly. If the temperature gauge barely moves off cold and the heater is
weak, the truck may have a bad thermostat.
The A/C system should be strong and cold. Moving the temperature selector
to the warm region should weaken the effects of the A/C. If not, a
potentiometer behind the temp selector is broken or disconnected.
Chek for oil level in the front wheel swivels, as well as making sure the
chrom balls are in good condition. If it looks like oil has seeped onto
inner wheels and brake backing plate then you've got bad swivel seals that
will need to be repaired.
Make sure the transfer case lever is not too frozen. Check Low range and
the diff-lock operation in both ranges. If the diff-lock light doesn't come
on or doesn't go out, you've got problems, unless the transmission is wound
up and needs to be unwound by reversing the vehicle.
Good luck!
Jeff G.
Boston, MA
1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover - needing frame
1990 Range Rover County - hybrid fodder (ask about parts)
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD - the anomaly, albeit a competently quick 4x4
1991 Range Rover Hunter - basically OME-ified
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 22:53:53 -0800
From: Cort Esch <esch_at_99main.com>
Subject: Re: door latch - update
Lee Levitt wrote:
> I had my door actuator replaced last week, and am happy to report that my
> GE extended service contract covered the repair :)
> The problem was intermittent, and it hasn't recurred <KOW>, so hopefully my
> sticky door latch problem I described earlier is gone...
Sorry, Lee, but I think this thread began before I got on the list. Can you please back up? I was just curious if it is the same problem my '96 Disco has. Occasionally, over the course of a day, my driver's door inside latch will get so hard to open that by the end of the day I'm afraid I'll snap it off trying to get the door open. It's been to the dealer twice with this problem and all they do is grease some stuff. Once, I had to roll down the window and use the outside handle to get the door open!
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 23:00:43 -0500
From: Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net>
Subject: Re: door latch - update
At 10:53 PM 12/3/97 -0800, Cort Esch wrote:
>> I had my door actuator replaced last week, and am happy to report that my
>> GE extended service contract covered the repair :)
>> The problem was intermittent, and it hasn't recurred <KOW>, so hopefully my
>> sticky door latch problem I described earlier is gone...
>Sorry, Lee, but I think this thread began before I got on the list. Can you
>please back up? I was just curious if it is the same problem my '96 Disco
>has. Occasionally, over the course of a day, my driver's door inside latch
>will get so hard to open that by the end of the day I'm afraid I'll snap
it off
>trying to get the door open. It's been to the dealer twice with this problem
>and all they do is grease some stuff. Once, I had to roll down the window
and
>use the outside handle to get the door open!
Nope, I think the symptoms were different.
First clue: driver's door latch would operate as normal, but nothing would happen. No stiffness noted.
Second clue: remote would not lock system. Doors would make locking sound and then unlock (with alarm armed). The driver's door lock wasn't going down (clue to bad actuator). It was trying but not going...
These were intermittent, btw. The latter symptom happened *once* before, about 3 months ago. Then recently the door wouldn't open, for about a week. Then, two weeks later the second symptom happened again, for about a week.
Then nothing. Worked as normal...but since something was obviously amiss, we pulled and replaced the actuator...
Lucas, prince of darkness!
Lee
Lee Levitt
wheelman _at_ shore.net
Director, Systems Marketing, News Internet Services -
http://www.newsinternet.com
Webmaster, NeedhamOnline - http://www.NeedhamOnline.com
and http://www.wheelman.com (some cool stuff for gearheads like me!)
1995 Range Rover County LWB, 60K, member Bay State Rovers
1990 Audi 200T, 82K
1987 Wicked Fat Chance, 1981 Condor
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 23:32:47 -0500
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy_at_gis.net>
Subject: Re: Tow bars on a D90
>Read the owners manual, in my "89 the only recommended towing was on a
>flatbed that's also how AAA and Rover picks them up when problems occur.
>Also all 4 on the ground your still putting miles on your odometer, your
>better putting in on a U-Haul car trailer with all 4 meats on the steal , I
>believe it is also the only way in Connecticut to tow a vehicle legally.
I would absolutely agree that the flatbed method is by far the best way
to go, and I highly endorse that method. I would only tow a Rover that way,
for extended periods of time. But, it's expensive. I believe U-Haul charges
around $50 a day for the full trailer. Ryder won't rent a trailer unless
it's behind one of their trucks. A flatbed service is prohibitively
expensive for long distances.
However, the LR Shop manual states you can tow with all four wheels on
the ground with the transmission in neutral. With both the autobox and
t-case in neutral I don't think the speedo is spinning since it's driven
off the transmission, hence no mileage gain on the odometer, unless the
speedo is connected to the output shaft.
The tow method for the individual states might be a very real issue,
depending on the state you happen to need to drive through.
I believe the primary reason tow companies flatbed is because it's easy
to send a ramp truck out. All the sling style truck will raise an axle...
bad, although there is another system in cases like this which employ a
separate rolling dolly for the grounded axle.
Jeff G.
Boston, MA
1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover - needing frame
1990 Range Rover County - hybrid fodder (ask about parts)
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD - the anomaly, albeit a competently quick 4x4
1991 Range Rover Hunter - basically OME-ified
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 23:32:49 -0500
From: Jeff Goldman <roverboy_at_gis.net>
Subject: Re: Range Rover "88
>I dunno man, that borg-warner T-case in the models above 88 sucks
>relative to the one they have in 87 and 88's and Discoveries and
Are you sure? From an operational standpoint? The viscous BW case is quieter, and not prone to transmission windup which could seriously damage drivetrain components. I've heard more than one list member describe that loud "popping/snapping" noise. The weak point on the BW case is the viscous unit, but they're fairly rugged.
Jeff G.
Boston, MA
1971 88" Series IIA Land Rover - needing frame
1990 Range Rover County - hybrid fodder (ask about parts)
1990 Eagle Talon TSi AWD - the anomaly, albeit a competently quick 4x4
1991 Range Rover Hunter - basically OME-ified
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 20:46:09 -0800
From: Wil <who_at_netwizards.net>
Subject: d90
>Thats OK most of the girls I'm close friends with referred to my AA Yellow
>D90 this summer in Newport RI as "The giant yellow P*nis" and all the off
>road events as "testosterone test" Who says it's easy driving a D90 (except
>for there owners)
>Chris "V"
I guess that make the Hummer the giant P*nis that gets stuck all the time.
Thought I'd send this URL out to those that might enjoy seeing a rally race this weekend. Just came across the site tonight. http://www.ebtec.com/racenews/maine/
Cheers! John
John Cassidy
Bangor, Maine USA
The Downeast Land Rover Club, <http://www.agate.net/~rovah/> X0 of the V(irtual)MFA 323rd Cougars/Flying GSC's F/A-18 Hornet game <http://www.tstonramp.com/~kahuna/index.html>
2 Wheels: Ducati M900, Velocette Thruxton, Moto Morini 350S 4 Wheels: 1995 Discovery, 1987 Range Rover-"Smedley," 1966 Series IIA 88", 1972 Series III 88"-"SWAMBO" 1963 Unimog 404.1-S "The Caterpiller"
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 21:25:37 -0800
From: Kevin Kelly <kkelly6788_at_earthlink.net>
Subject: Range Rover Cooling System
Any ideas why my Range Rover is running hot in traffic? There was a bad accident tonight and I spent about a half hour driving 1 mile (so I was not moving fast). After about 15 min the temp gauge started to move above its normal range of 1/3 (it will never move above 1/3 when I am moving), and in about 10 minutes it moved close to the red, turning on the heater and heater fan brought it down to 3/4. This is not the first time it has done this. I left the Range Rover idling for about 20 min a couple weeks ago and when I got in I was close to the red on the temp gauge. I popped the hood and the (2 yr. old) radiator cap was hissing.
My sending unit is only about a year old and I am fairly sure I am getting accurate readings from the temp. gauge, coolant is a fresh (well, this summer) mix of 45% Coolant, 5% Red Line Water Wetter and 50% Water, and my fan clutch is a few months old. The water pump fan belt is new and tight.
Has anyone heard of a new fan clutch going bad? Does anyone know how hot a radiator should get? I know that cool spots are indication of blockage. Ten minutes after I got home (outside temp 55 deg.) I got surface temps ranging from a low of 90 degrees on the lower left to a high of 115 degrees on the upper left (by the hose) with my temp sensor.
I am thinking I might have a thermostat problem? I have never had the thermostat out and tested it. Since the heater had such a dramatic effect on my cooling I am thinking that I may have something restricting water flow to the radiator, should I just replace the thing. My euro parts manual only lists one thermostat (88 deg. C) for the V8, it that a good choice for a mild N. Calif. climate? I noticed in the parts manual that a fan switch is on the housing, since my electric fans only come on with the AC (never when the engine gets hot) it is my guess that this switch is bad also.
I am also looking for a place to buy a metal radiator and "fill tower" plug. All modern Rover V8s have two plugs the same size on the top of the radiator and another plug on the top of the metal "fill tower" (metal pipe that connects the front heater hose to the rear heater hose). For some reason Land Rover stopped using metal plugs and now only sell nylon ones (that strip out). Land Rovers in the mid 80's all seem to have two metal plugs, my '89 has one metal and one nylon, and all the newer LRs I have seen have two nylon plugs.
Kevin Kelly
Date: Wed, 3 Dec 1997 23:13:31 -0800 (PST) From: Alexander George Cooper <agcooper_at_leland.Stanford.EDU> Subject: Re: Range Rover Cooling System
I had some cooling system problems a while ago and ended up calibrating the temperature sensor in the top of the block and then using a multimeter to measure the resistance and thus the engine temperature. My sensor calibration was not quite the same as in the shop manual so you may want to calibrate your sensor just to be sure. My calibration was as follows:
T (C) R (ohms)
98 195
95 215
93 220
90 240
85 275
80 320
70 420
65 490
It turned out that my engine was running at about 93C (measured right after stopping and turning off the engine). Since the thermostat is set for 88C I'm assuming that this is a relatively normal operating temperature, but I have not seen a spec on correct engine temperature so I don't know.
Good luck,
Alexander Cooper
'89 RR, Palo Alto, CA, USA
Date: Wed, 03 Dec 1997 23:49:49 -0800
From: Michael Carradine <cs_at_unimog.net>
Subject: Re: Range Rover Cooling System
At 09:25 PM 12/3/97 -0800, Kevin Kelly wrote: :Any ideas why my Range Rover is running hot in traffic?
My '89 RR was running hot too, and even boiled over this summer. I've been told the radiator is most likely restricted, a common problem. A shop in town will recore it for $400, same day service. A guy with a '95 Disco had the same problem, recored it, and all is well. I plan on doing mine next week!
-Michael
Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 09:58:21 +0000
From: Strange john <ac417_at_dial.pipex.com>
Subject: Re: the wrong side and other matters
Hi All..
just to throw in a few comments
..
I gather from a GM handout publicising the re-introduction
of Cadillac to the UK market (with Right hand drive), that
American cars produced prior to 1915, and many European
"prestige" marques such as Bugatti, Put their steering wheel
on the Right, even tho they drove on the Right hand side of the road.
This was, to quote the handout, because it was Cool to have the
Driver next to the sidewalk..
Re: the LWB Disco, I gather from UK magazines, that its due for release here in Autumn 1998, which probably means 1999 in LandRover speak.. That's assuming they release it here before the States,
Re: The mass release of Series vehicles to Auction in the UK. The December issue of LRO has full details, I haven't read it all yet, but it includes, both vehicles and spares (complete motors, transmissions and axles, many brand new)..
Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 09:58:56 +0000
From: Strange john <ac417_at_dial.pipex.com>
Subject: Re: the wrong side and other matters
Hi All..
just to throw in a few comments
..
I gather from a GM handout publicising the re-introduction
of Cadillac to the UK market (with Right hand drive), that
American cars produced prior to 1915, and many European
"prestige" marques such as Bugatti, Put their steering wheel
on the Right, even tho they drove on the Right hand side of the road.
This was, to quote the handout, because it was Cool to have the
Driver next to the sidewalk..
Re: the LWB Disco, I gather from UK magazines, that its due for release here in Autumn 1998, which probably means 1999 in LandRover speak.. That's assuming they release it here before the States,
Re: The mass release of Series vehicles to Auction in the UK. The December issue of LRO has full details, I haven't read it all yet, but it includes, both vehicles and spares (complete motors, transmissions and axles, many brand new)..
As long as the list is talking about the merits of '88s...
I am looking at a '91 Range Rover. 108,000 miles. Good looking. $11,400. Does this sound like a good deal?
Thanks
Dave
'97 Disco
David M. Sherwood
e-mail:
zaphod_at_bitstream.net
web:
http://www2.bitstream.net/~zaphod
http://www.quast-transfer.com
>From what I can gather, it was Henry Ford who caused the U.S. to formalize
driving on the right. Like his statement about the model T: "you can have
what ever color you want as long as it is black", when he put together his
first production car (not the center steer prototype), it had the steering
wheel on the left. When the T came out, it followed the left steering trend.
The T sold so many, that the U.S. standardized on driving on the right.
Larry Smith
Chester, VA
I am looking for good mechanics not dealers in the Philadelphia Metro Area.
I am purchasing a 95 RR LWB and would like a complete check up for this vehicle.
Any suggestions....
THX
>Just curious, what new exterior colors did the 98's have?
The vehicle I looked at was a new color - a deep cranberry red (not the
real name, but you get the idea). The other colors seemed similar to
97's. Both the Disco and RR colors included several deep/dark reds,
blues, and greens. I recently received the new LR monthly magazine
(advertisement) and it listed all the new colors. I'll see if I can
remember to bring it to work.
Kevin
97 Disco
Date: Thu, 04 Dec 1997 09:41:40 -0500
From: Lee Levitt <wheelman_at_shore.net>
Subject: Re: 91 Range Rover?
At 07:19 AM 12/4/97 +0000, David M. Sherwood wrote:
>As long as the list is talking about the merits of '88s...
>I am looking at a '91 Range Rover. 108,000 miles. Good looking.
>$11,400. Does this sound like a good deal?
Quite reasonable if it's in good shape, and '91 is a nice year. Of course, you can get caught up in price creep, as I did, and take a look at a '92. I think that's the first year they had moonroofs or something else I had to have, can't remember what.
Course, I ended up with a '95. Once I saw the updated dash and interior...
Lee
END OF * LIST DIGEST
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