From owner-cso-digest_at_playground.sun.com Wed Dec 31 07:01:37 1997
The WWW pages for the list (including subscribe/unsubscribe forms) start at:

http://www.Land-Rover.Team.Net/lro-info.html (shadow) http://www2.Land-Rover.Team.Net/lro-info.html


Date: Sat, 27 Dec 1997 14:35:20 -0800
From: Cort Esch <esch_at_99main.com>
Subject: a couple questions

(1) Can I get away with not putting new bumper end caps (i.e. the low profile ones from Rover's North) on my Disco right away after removing the front spoiler? What am I risking? Like most other people, we're reeling from Christmas, and $149 is $149.

(2) How hard is it to pull the Disco spoiler off? Can it be done without removing the factory brush bar? Where do the fog lights disconnect (at the light, or further up)?

(3) Does anyone have a common cross-reference for a Range Rover parking/side marker light? I can obviously order one, but I'd rather run down to the local auto supply store.

And, not to add fuel to the steel/alloy spare war, but page 122 of the '95 RR owner's manual says, "Note: All Land Rover vehicles fitted with alloy wheels have a steel spare wheel."

Thanks for the help,
Cort


Subject: Disco Air Dam Removal
Date: Tue, 30 Dec 97 22:54:29 -0500
From: Tom Proctor <luckyjoe_at_ptd.net>

It is very simple. There are about a dozen screws hoding the air dam on. Remove these and you can take it right off. You DO NOT have to remove an A-frame or brushbar (if fitted). This next step will save you $140:

Trimming your stock bumper end caps.

  1. Remove the side marker lamps from ther sockets (twist and pull). Be sure you move them out of the way so they do not get broken.
  2. Remove the end cap from its metal support skeleton. I think there are only two or three screws (from memory).
  3. Once the end caps are removed, take some electrical tape and make a mask along the end cap contour where you would like to cut. White or colored tape makes this easier since it contrasts the black end cap.
  4. Take a hacksaw blade and wrap half of it in tape to form a handle. This allows you to hold/cut with just the blade. You can control the blade easily and at a very slow pace.
  5. Using downward pressure from you free hand, hold the end cap to a work bench or similar surface while cutting with the other hand. Be sure to leave a little material between the blade path and the tape mask so you can clean it up in the next step.
  6. Once both caps are cut you can clean-up and smooth the cut surface with a fine mill file. It will look exactly like the Disco XD end cap whe finished.
  7. Reinstall endcaps and side marker lamps.

I do not know about air dam mounted lights as I do not have them. But they should disconnect (with connectors) in front of the radiator and air conditioning fans. It would probably be quite easy to remount these to the brushbar or even the top of the bumper with only a few new holes and/or some hardware from the dealer/autoparts store/Hella...

This procedure will leave you with a very mean looking Disco as well as the additional approach angle. This should be a required modification to any Disco that regularly goes offroad. It opens up a world of offroad driving that no longer threaten your air dam.

Tom Proctor
96 Disco


Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 11:15:07 -0600
From: Keith Morehouse <blckhole_at_ripco.com> Subject: Disco front spoiler

Cort:

You probably have many answers by now, but here's my 2 cents worth.

  1. Don't spend the money on new end caps if the old ones are still good looking. Take a thin blade saw and cut the OEM caps. When you look at the OEM cap, you'll see where to make the cut.
  2. The Disco spoiler comes off easily. You'll be amazed at the amount of hardware you have after the job is done ! I don't have the factory brush thingy so I don't know how much that complicates the issue. The fog's disconnect at a connector right behind the headlamp assy's.

I removed the spoiler from my '96 this summer. Makes the vehicle look much better and increases ground clearance and approach angle significantly !! As I've found out recently, it's GREAT not to have that stupid snowplow down there when the snow gets deep !!

Good Luck !

---------------------------###----------------------------- PROBE ELECTRONICS 100 Higgins Road, Park Ridge IL 60068 USA Keith J. Morehouse / W9RM / Society of Midwest Contesters 847-696-2828 FAX: 847-698-2045 e-mail: blckhole_at_ripco.com ---------------------------###-----------------------------


Date: Wed, 31 Dec 1997 17:33:59 -0800
From: Cort Esch <esch_at_99main.com>
Subject: project results

After all the help I received from the list, here are the results of the Disco air dam project...

The air dam can indeed be removed without removing the factory brush bar. The only place it gets a little tough is in the center, where it is difficult to wiggle the air dam off the studs due to the limited clearance between it and the brush bar.

I used a hack saw to cut along the lower of the two parallel creases in the bumper end caps. This preserved the finished look. I didn't take the time to look at the bumper of the one XD I have seen. I assume this is what it looks like. The end caps do file and clean up nicely.

I went to Home Depot and bought a strip of perforated zinc-plated steel. I cut two strips to length, stuck them in the vice, and bent them into u-brackets for the fog lights I removed from the air dam. The factory brush bar already had two holes, and the perforated metal strip had plenty of holes to chose from, so no drilling was necessary. I ran the wires through the bottom slots in the plastic front grill, and up through the original holes to the space behind the headlights. They are tough to reconnect. I had to hold one piece with a pair of pliers because I could only get one hand in there at a time. The clip has to be depressed in order to get the wires to mate again.

The lights don't look as goofy as I thought they would. They're no Hellas, but they didn't cost me anything extra either. They'll at least work until I can afford a nice pair, or two, of auxiliary lamps.

Thanks again for the help.